This a deep dive into the best mineral paints: chalk paint, lime paint and clay paint, to see which ones had the least amount of toxic additives and if any of them are really pure. 

I test and compare all the brands available in North America. These are the least toxic paints that can go on interior walls, and the most natural paints.

What I found here was a lot of marketing greenwashing, as well as some interesting new paints that I had not tried before. I had to do a lot of wading through the nitty-gritty ingredients here to get to these recommendations!

This post is not sponsored by any of the mineral paint companies. The post includes Amazon affiliate links. I earn a small commission upon purchase at no extra cost to you.

I only found four mineral-based paints in North America that fit my criteria. Though as I investigated this, it became more and more unclear what should be defined as a mineral-based paint. They all have polymers!

I talk about some others that didn’t make the cut at the end. 

Reasons for considering mineral-based paint:

1. More natural, non-toxic, mineral-based paints might be more suitable for the chemically sensitive and others avoiding toxins. It may even be safe for you to apply them yourself.
2. These paints are breathable, which is specified in many mold preventative wall assemblies (for example in passive house design).
3. They give a natural look and feel to a room.

1. RomaBio EcoDomus Mineral Paint Review

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A post shared by RomaBio (@romabiopaints) on Dec 19, 2019 at 9:59am PST

I want to start with the most well-known mineral-based paint, RomaBio. This paint is popular and is often the easiest to source mineral-based paint. It’s the only one you can find on Amazon.

RomaBio is a lime-based paint. It’s also a silicate paint that has another non-acrylic polymer in it (i.e. it might not be a pure silicate paint). The silicate paints are very safe, and in this formula, they help create a paint that has a really durable, washable surface that is still breathable.

Silicate paints are the type of paint that can technically be called mineral paints, but because of the unknown polymer in here, I’m not sure that this is a true silicate/mineral paint.

What I found out from digging into the ingredients and smelling it for myself, is that this one is actually (it seems to me), the most like conventional paint in odor level.

Although it is a breathable paint (95% breathable), which is specified for many builds, it did have that classic paint smell when wet (to my nose and to my estimation).

It’s not the same type of paint as ECOs or other 0-VOC paints, but the EVA ingredient and possibly the unlisted polymer are contributing to that odor that is associated with “new paint smell”. 

What are the Additives in RomaBio Paint?

Their Interior paint is called EcoDomus (this is different from their exterior lime washes).

The ingredients for the white EcoDomus paint are:

Water, calcium carbonate (limestone), titanium dioxide (a metal mineral that makes things white, including food), ethylene vinyl acetate polymer (EVA) (a polymer that is common in paint and has that typical paint odor), undisclosed polymer, potassium polysilicate (liquid glass, very safe – this is the silicate part), talc, plus 13 undisclosed ingredients. 

What are the undisclosed ingredients:

I’m not sure what that second polymer is, but here is a list of typical polymers used in silicate paints: styrene-butadiene, polystyrene, neoprene, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl acetate, acrylonitrile copolymers, acrylic polymers and copolymers (source).

Other typical additives in silicate paints include surfactants, small amounts of solvents, thickeners (like cellulose), stabilizers, modifiers. This also contains a preservative.

They also list their ingredients as follows: containing inert binders (4 – 18% depending on the product. They claim potassium silicate is the primary binder, but it also has EVA and an undisclosed polymer), natural thickeners (might very likely be a cellulose) and earth oxide pigments.

Does RomaBio Contain Toxins/Toxic Additives?

The VOCs in RomaBio EcoDomus

The paint is listed as 0 VOC, with no exempt VOCs. They do disclose detailed testing of the VOCs which reveal: 

• Butanol 2.2 micrograms/m3
• 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on 5.5 micrograms/m3 (this is a preservative)
• Formaldehyde <2 micrograms/m3 (extremely low but there are aldehyde donors in here)
• Acetaldehyde <2 micrograms/m3

They state it does not contain: propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (PEG), formaldehyde (though it has a small amount of formaldehyde/aldehyde donors based on the VOCs) or alkylphenol ethoxylates. They claim no toxic biocides/mildewcides/no toxic preservatives (but it does contain 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin aka Methylisothiazolinone which is a biocide and is not benign), no acrylic resins (though it does contain EVA and an unknown polymer), and no toxic binders.

What I Like About RomaBio (Pros):

• The Matte does not require a primer on new drywall.
• Matte is 87% natural.
• There is a fair amount of disclosure on what’s in it and a lot of disclosure on the final VOCs.
• One of the only breathable (high perm rating listed), and washable paints. Most regular 0 VOC paints like ECOS, Ben Moore do not have a high perm rating.
• The only washable flat (matte) sheen mineral paint I found that does not require a sealer to be washable. 
• Durable, washable and not easily stained by oil, food (ketchup mustard etc).
• High quality – expect the quality and ease of application of regular paint. You do not have to do a sample board due to unusual application techniques/tools.
• You can use it in the bathroom and kitchen. It is mold resistant and can take splatter. 

What I Don’t Like About RomaBio (Cons):

• It doesn’t have that much lower odor than regular 0 VOC paints like ECOs. It’s not clear that odor and VOC-wise, it’s better than ECOs or other 0 VOC paints (it might even be worse for some folks).
• It might be harder to tolerate than other mineral paints listed here for many folks with chemical sensitivities. Possibly due to variations in which polymer is tolerable for different folks).
• Many undisclosed ingredients.

Application Tips for RomaBio EcoDomus

EcoDomus can be applied with a brush, roller, or spray like any traditional paint. This was the most like conventional 0 VOC paint and it was the easiest one to choose the right roller for. Painters should have no problem applying it.

When applying it to the wall it is easiest to use a roller (not a brush). For silicate paints you can use polyester rollers.

I found this was easy to apply with a brush and roller, even for a beginner painter. It had the ease of application of a regular 0 VOC paint. I used a medium pile roller and it worked just fine. A short nap roller on drywall would be smoother. Wooster is a good one.

You can pair that with the same paintbrushes that you would use on conventional paint for cutting in. Purdy Nylox is super smooth. Purdy Pro is slightly less smooth.

You don’t need a sealer on this one. Matte is two coats, satin and eggshell are primer plus two coats.

How Does RomaBio EcoDomus Hold Up?

You need to wait 14 days for a full cure to start scrubbing it.

I put it to the test with mustard (for the staining) and mayo (for the oil). The mayo was no problem to wipe off, both off the matte and satin.

The mustard stained both of them. It did not come off with a soft sponge with soap and water. It did come off with the Magic Eraser, though you can tell on the grey color that the Eraser pulled up a little paint. It’s not obvious on the board.

They say you can clean it with mild dish soap or other mild cleaner with a soft rag or soft sponge.

2. Bioshield Clay Paint Review

In terms of the most non-toxic of the mineral-based paints I found in North America, BioShield Clay Paint is the winner.

It has a high percentage of natural ingredients, the least amount of concerning additives and the lowest odor.

I found the odor of it even straight out of the bottle to be mild and nonoffensive. Depending on your level of sensitivity, this may smell slightly like polymers or it might smell totally benign to you.

Like every other paint that can go on new drywall, it does have a binder/polymer in it. The polymer is PVA. It does polymerize so it’s not technically classified as “a mineral paint”.

It can go over new drywall that has a skim coat with no primer. It can also go over previously painted walls if they are not glossy without a primer.

Whether you can put it over new drywall that is taped and mudded at the seams depends on the color of the paint and your skill level – you might see this transition between the two different materials if you don’t use a primer.

It can go over wood and some wallpapers without a primer.

A clay paint will not be washable. These would be contrasting needs. Clay paint is not suited for frequent cleaning. Grease and other contaminants can leave permanent marks. 

You can add their Wall Glaze or AFM Penetrating Waterstop to add more water resistance and cleanability. They recommend the wall glaze for areas like the kitchen and hallway.

For bathrooms, clay paint is not ideal, as it should not receive regular water exposure. I would not use this in a bathroom personally as the area around the sink will generally get splashed.

I like their basic Clay Paint. They also have a slightly more modified one that is called their Solvent-Free Wall Paint (NB all water-based paint is solvent-free as a general rule). 

I couldn’t pick up much of a difference between them (odor-wise), but the solvent-free paint was smoother in its final finish, and it is more washable.

Ingredients and Additives in BioShield Clay Paint

Ingredients in Bioheild Clay Paint:

Water, clay, porcelain clay, chalk, alcohol ester (as a binder, this is the PVA), cellulose, pigments, preservatives (you can email them for the details on the preservative, they are common ones but not benign).

Ingredients in BioShield Solvent-Free Wall Paint:

Water, chalk, asbestos-free talcum, titanium dioxide, polyphosphate (a water softener), cellulose,  alcohol ester, sodium hydroxide, and preservatives.

What I like About BioShield (Pros):

• The purest or least “offensive” paint on the list, in my estimation.
• The lowest odor paint I have ever used.
• No-VOC. Usually tolerable for the chemically sensitive.
• Chemically sensitive folks may even be able to apply it themselves.
• No time (or less time compared to some others) needed for offgassing before reentering the room.
• 100% transparency in ingredients.
• No primer needed in some applications.

What I don’t like about BioShield (Cons):

• Not washable, it stains easily, means you either need to apply a labor-intensive wall glaze, or AFM Penetrating Waterstop in high impact areas. (The Solvent-Free Wall Paint is more washable.)
• You may need another paint option for the bathrooms.
• You may need a primer over new drywall that doesn’t have a skim coat (and you will have to choose a primer that you tolerate).
• They only ship to the 48 states (not Canada).

Application Tips for BioShield Clay Paint

I applied BioShield Clay Paint and Solvent-Free Wall Paint without a primer over paper-based drywall (2 x 2 pieces with no drywall mud).

I found it relatively easy to apply and I really liked the finish. I thought it would be more difficult to apply than it was.

The application is not the same as regular paint or RomaBio which went on more conventionally and was more forgiving of my medium nap roller and beginner’s technique.

I did have trouble finding the right brush and roller that did not leave such a textured finish. A more skilled painter should not have as much trouble with this.

My medium nap roller left it quite textured. If you are new to painting or to clay paints, you might want to test out your brush and roller to see what the texture will look like. I was not happy with my texture and the company would not recommend a specific brush or roller.

It is a plus that this can be applied with a roller. A low nap roller is recommended for a conventional-looking finish on drywall, like Wooster 3/8th nap rollers.

A beginner should do a test sample on a test piece of drywall.

Two coats are required, with a longer dry time in between than many other paints. Cures in about 10 days. I will report back with my spatter tests when it’s cured.

I also tried the Wall Glaze on top of the paint as a protective coating. The ingredients of the wall glaze are cellulose, alcohol ester, silica, carnauba wax, clay, water, and preservative.

How did it Hold up?

Without the glaze, the Clay Paint held up pretty well to mustard. I had to use the Magic Eraser to get it out completely, and like with RomaBio that did remove a tiny bit of paint (which was not noticeable on the wall, only on the sponge).

It did not do as well with the mayo, which left a slight oil stain. It was not very noticeable after cleaning it off.

3. Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (on the Wall) Review

Annie Sloan is well known for their Chalk Paint®. It’s best known as a furniture paint, but it can also be used on walls.

They do have a separate paint that is labeled as wall paint. Right now it is not available in North America (only Europe), I tried their regular Chalk Paint on paperbacked gypsum wallboard.

The most interesting aspect of this paint is its self-priming ability over a wide range of surfaces. You don’t need to prime or sand most surfaces. The finish is ultra-matte, a chalk-like look. 

There are not many non-toxic paints that can be used on cabinets, this is one of them. (I mention the others in the post on paints and sealers). What’s easy about this one is it goes over many cabinets types and finishes without sanding or priming. 

It also works as one of the only non-toxic chalkboard paint (to write on).

The most obvious downside is we don’t know what’s in this paint. They claim extremely low VOCs. I don’t find it as potent as regular paint but it does resemble an artist’s paint (not an acrylic odor though).

I cannot quite identify what is in this by the odor. Some extremely chemically sensitive folks have done well with this paint, some have reacted. I think it’s certainly worth testing out for your project. 

Like the clay paint, it has a matte finish that is not scrubbable. The company does not recommend using Chalk Paint on walls in kitchens, bathrooms and walls that require a tougher, scrubbable finish.

Like with clay paint, you can use wax over it to provide more protection and durability to use it in high impact areas. But waxing a whole wall is a very big job. 

I tried the Annie Sloan Wax. It smelled like petroleum products to me and I did not tolerate it. It was the only finish in this post I did not tolerate (just the wax part).

That’s not a deal-breaker for me, you can use this without a wax or use a different brand of wax finish. I tested a couple of other finishes over it, and will report back in part two on the wax coats and how everything held up to my stain tests.

If you are in Europe they do recommend the wall paint for kitchens, bathrooms, and walls that require a tougher, scrubbable finish. (The wall paint does not require the wax and is not considered breathable).

What I like About Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (Pros):

• Very Low VOC.
• Low odor, will be suitable for many chemically sensitive folks (but not all). To my nose, it’s much lower odor than Romabio.
• Very versatile – it can be used on walls, floors, wood, cabinets, concrete, metal, matte plastic, earthenware, brick, stone and more.
• Rarely is sanding or priming the surface first necessary.
• Breathable.
• Unique matte, chalk-like look.
• One coat and no primer needed, make this the fastest to apply.
• The artist quality to this paint and its pigment would make me choose this one for a wall mural or decorative design (though it is very fast drying so it’s not easy to blend on the surface).

What I don’t like about Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (Cons):

• I have no idea what is in this paint. Hardly any hints to any of the ingredients. Very few claims about what’s not in it either. The SDS only lists two alcohols and ammonia – nothing about the binder/polymer or minerals.
• Some extremely sensitive folks may not tolerate it, or may need to leave the room until it’s cured.
• The dark red that I used did need a second coat to be totally even.
• I didn’t tolerate the wax, and many people I know would not tolerate it.

Tips for Applying Annie Sloan Chalk Paint to Walls

For most purposes, one coat of paint is enough (it wasn’t for me and the dark red, though the coverage was very impressive compared to every other paint I have ever used). You don’t need to prime walls.

You can apply it with a brush, make sure you use a natural or natural/ synthetic mix brush like this Annie Sloan brush. You may want to try Purdy White Bristle (natural bristle) or the softer Purdy Ox Hair Brush.

Annie Sloan prefers brush application with random brush strokes to a roller application. But you can use a roller to apply it to the drywall.

It seems that most people use a roller, as it is easier for most people. You will want a high-density foam roller.

I used a natural bristle chalk paint paintbrush for a 2 x 2 drywall sample and I was happy with the look of the brush marks. For a bigger area, you will want a larger brush than the chalk paint brushes used on furniture.

I recommend painting a sample on a piece of 2 x 2 drywall to test out your brush type, technique and texture. As well as testing to see if you only need one coat.

It’s 30 days for a full cure. For bedrooms and low impact wall rooms, you don’t need to wax it.

If you are waxing it, this large wax brush can be used to apply it to the walls. Remove excess with a cloth. The wax was not tolerable for me, and I would not recommend it for most chemically sensitive folks.

How did it Hold up?

With the wax it held up extremely well to mustard and mayo.

The unsealed Chalk Paint held up fine to mustard – perhaps there is a limit to how much you could wipe it or scrub it but it did hold up to my test.

I also tried the BioSheild Glaze and that helped it hold up perfectly to mustard and mayo as well.

4. Charleston Lime Paint Review

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Our limewash gives texture & depth to a modern interior in South Hampton by @blueoceandesign.

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Charleston Limewash makes lime wash and lime paint. Lime wash is just for painting over plaster or masonry. The lime paint can go on primed or already painted walls.

What I like about this paint is simple ingredients and full disclosure. 

The odor is familiar to anyone who has used even basic acrylic artists paints. 

Once dry, this would qualify as 0 VOC. With lime as the main ingredient, it does not require a preservative mildewcide in it. 

Ingredients of Lime paint:

The paint is made of 45% calcium hydroxide (lime), and approximately 5% acrylic. They claim those are the only ingredients (pigments and water of course, too).

What I like about Lime Paint (pros):

• Mild acrylic odor, will cure to 0 VOC.
• I found it more tolerable than conventional acrylic paints due to the high lime content.
• Full disclosure of ingredients.
• No preservative is needed with lime.

What I don’t like about Lime Paint (cons):

• The main drawback is that it needs a primer on the wall first. It’s likely that you will end up using ECOS or another similar 0 VOC primer. 
• It has 5% acrylic, so it is not totally natural, and not everyone will do well with acrylic.
• They don’t provide a wax or topcoat to go with it.
• The light blue color I choose required a primer and three coats, making it the most labor-intensive of the paints here.
• The paint did not have an even look.
• It’s tricky to apply – you should do a sample board first.

Application Tips for Charleston Lime Paint:

The color was bright blue in the container but it dried to a baby blue. It was difficult to apply evenly, and because it dries to a different color than when wet, and dries fast, it was not that easy to tell if it was applied evenly.

I used straight across brush strokes, random brush strokes are recommended.

After two coats I could see how it was evening-out. I applied three coats, and I was not left with an even finish with two or three coats. You will want to experiment here with brush types, dilution rates (don’t go too thick as it will be harder to get it even), and practice to make sure you get the look you want.

I preferred a smaller brush. On a wall, you will need a larger brush. Something smooth like Purdy Nylox. The company did not recommend a specific brush.

Limepaint and Annie Sloan dried super fast, you had to work fast. Biosheild and Romabio were not too far behind but had a slightly longer work time.

How did it Hold up?

The lime wash with no coating would not be expected to hold up to my mustard and mayo test. Both stained it.

The mustard was removed with the Magic Eraser which removed a lot of paint and left a very obvious area of paint removal. The mayo stain was even worse. I will test out patching that up but with the way the lime paint shows overlaps, I don’t think I will be able to.

Summary – Which Mineral Paint to Choose:

• Use RomaBio if you want an easy solution that applies like typical paint and is matte, breathable, washable. And, you can tolerate the offgassing.
• Use BioShield if you are in the most sensitive category and want the most benign option.
• Try Limepaint if you do better with an acrylic binder.
• Try Annie Sloan if painting over something difficult to prime, if you want to save time with just one coat, or you like the look of it better.

Paints that Didn’t Make the List:

1. Earthborn Paints – are available only in the UK/Europe
2. Green Planet Paints – these paints are a little different. I wanted to include them though it was too difficult for the company to send a sample to Canada (also they don’t have sample sizes). This is a soy-based paint that is not quite like any of the other options out here. 
3. Auro – In Europe they sell the more pure mineral paint but they do not sell this in North America at this time. 
4. Fusion Paint – This is a furniture paint. It is an acrylic mineral paint. I don’t know what percent is acylic, but I’m not sure what classifies it as a “mineral paint”. They do claim 0 VOC. The percent of acrylic would change whether I classify this as a mineral-based paint or an acrylic paint. 
5. Milk Paint – doesn’t really go on the new drywall so easily, so it was not included here. On new drywall, it requires a bond coat, then at least two coats of milk paint. The finish can crack on the wall and it also requires a sealer like hemp oil or finishing cream on top. Milk Paint could have been included here but one of the distributors convinced me not to.
6. Farrow and Ball – Farrow and Ball is a latex/acrylic paint but they describe it as a mineral paint: “We start by mixing chalk, china clay and titanium dioxide with water to create our base paint.” Many synthetic paints have these minerals as their base.
7. ECOS – ECOS paint, the favorite of the 0 VOC paints currently, also contains chalk, clay and titanium dioxide like F&B, but it is still classified as an acrylic paint. I talk about 0 VOC conventional paints in the post on paints and sealers.

Note: All paints have minerals, a binder, a solvent and usually a preservative. In all of these water-based paints, the “solvent” is water. Any paint with a polymer binder that polymerizes is not technically “a mineral paint”. Paints that were largely mineral-based with a small amount of binder, or a less toxin binder were included in this post. Again, all wall paints have a binder!

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

If you need assistance choosing the best cabinets for your sensitivities, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation. 

Conventional Cabinets

Conventional cabinets have been a large source of VOCs in the kitchen, with all conventional brands using some kind of pressed wood, MDF, plywood or particleboard (or melamine with a particleboard interior) which typically give off formaldehyde.

There are pressed wood products with no formaldehyde added now and some cabinets makers are using these.

The move towards CARB II and GreenGuard Gold has greatly improved the formaldehyde levels in the conventional options in recent years.

Finishes are likely to be toxic unless stated otherwise. Many are low-VOC, but that term tends to be too vague for the chemically sensitive. Not many have taken the leak towards 0 VOC yet.

Healthy Cabinet Materials 

Healthy cabinets would be made of solid wood, plywood or pressed wood without formaldehyde, or metal. Sometimes glass or MgO board can be used.

Of course, some are sensitive to the terpenes of wood and wood can also pick up and hold onto secondary odors. My cabinets are solid wood, but the reason cabinets are made of pressed wood products is that solid wood can warp in the kitchen.

1. Metal Cabinets

There are companies that make metal kitchen cabinets:

Bertolini (affordable, 100% metal).

Fadior makes stainless steel cabinets.

IMD has no wood and no adhesives (North America and Europe).

Pedini (high-end) An Italian company that was at the forefront of green cabinetry. They offer some metal options.

When shopping for metal cabinets you want to see if there are any non-metal components and what those are.

2. Solid Wood Cabinets

Healthy Cabinet Makers make solid wood cabinets aimed at the chemically sensitive.

It’s rare to find cabinets made out of solid wood, so I would certainly go with a company that has expertise with this type of construction.

Solid wood is prone to warping in high humidity, which is why most cabinets are not solid.

This company also has a commitment to healthy finishes.

3. Low-VOC and Formaldehyde-Free Cabinets

i. KERF makes cool looking cabinets out of Purebond (formaldehyde-free) plywood, and zero-VOC finishes. (Pictured left).

ii. Neil Nelly Cabinets makes low-VOC wooden cabinets with no-added-formaldehyde cases/drawers with low VOC glues, adhesives, and finishes.

iii. Executive Cabinetry uses Purebond no added formaldehyde plywood.

iv. Another popular brand is Crystal Cabinets, their finishes aren’t perfect, but a major upside is you can finish them yourself.

This is often the top pick for many in the high-end green market. This post lists non-toxic cabinet paint and finishes.

v. Bellmont Cabinetry offers a line called Eco-Core that is melamine with no added formaldehyde.

vi. Taylor Made Cabinets offers no added formaldehyde cabinets, with plywood boxes and solid wood
drawers.

vii. Royal Cabinets makes a line called Green Leaf that has no added formaldehyde and low-VOC finishes.

viii. The Breathe Easy line uses formaldehyde-free plywood, and non-toxic finishes and glues.
Some of the same companies that make kitchen cabinets also make non-toxic bathroom vanities and closets. Here is a company making solid wood closets.

4. Fully Custom-Made Cabinets

Cabinets can be made with a combination of solid wood, Purebond (formaldehyde-free plywood), possibly formaldehyde-free particleboard, or MgO board.

Purebond plywood is made of “soy glue” which is the same or similar to polyurethane glue. Not all sensitive folks do well with this.

Personally I would choose plywood made with phenol-formaldehyde (which offgasses quickly and fully) over formaldehyde-free brands.

Drawers can be made of mostly metal.

My cabinets, pictured, are custom made with solid wood on the doors/face. MgO was used for the boxes. IKEA metal drawers were used for the drawers, with MgO as the base of the drawer.

The wood did warp a little in my kitchen (this was poplar wood).

Some ideas to cut down on costs while keeping the cabinets low in toxicity:

• Use shelves instead of upper cabinets – either wood, glass or metal
• Salvage cabinets and countertops from demolitions as they may have off-gassed or you may find metal ones
• DIY simple open shelving made of solid wood, tadelakt, metal, or glass
• Metal and glass cabinets you can custom make or make yourself here is a description and instructions from Build a Healthy House
• Incorporate affordable metal drawers or shelves inside of cabinets (like my IKEA parts)

5. Non-Toxic Outdoor Kitchen Cabinets

Non-toxic outdoor kitchen cabinets can be made of polyethylene or metal.

Folks who have not found a suitable material in indoor options might use the outdoor styles inside.

You could, of course, use these outside as intended, as well.

One benefit here is you might find modular options in this category easily at big box stores.

6. Less Toxic Big Box Store Cabinets

Less sensitive folks have reported doing well with Thomasville brand cabinets from Home Depot and the lacquered VEDDINGE cabinets from IKEA.

In fact, many people are finding that since CARB II came into effect, regular cabinets are fine for them. You may want to compare some, look for GreenGuard Gold if possible and check out the different finishes for yourself.

In cabinets with a lacquer or melamine finish on the outside, this does appear to block a lot of the offgassing. If the edges are sealed in by the finish, that is even better.

If they are not, they can be sealed with AFM products as outlined in the post on sealing in toxins.

The IKEA drawers have metal sides which is a great feature, and the fiberboard base can be swapped out. IKEA also sells glass cabinet drawers and glass shelves for inside cabinets. You can really cut down on cost and toxins but using many IKEA parts.

If you need assistance choosing the best cabinets, countertops and other kitchen items for your sensitivities, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation. 

This post is an overview of interior and exterior door types, what they are made of and the potential offgassing of VOCs of each type. We will look at which types are non-toxic and safe, with zero to little offgassing, and which ones contain toxic substances.

The post will focus on outlining the types of doors you will find at big box stores like Home Depot, specialty stores, and online. We will also cover unusual and creative options (including non-wood options) that will suit the most chemically sensitive or the true purist who wants the healthiest door possible.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

If you need assistance choosing non-toxic materials for a build or reno, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation. 

Solid Wood Doors

This category of doors are real solid wood through and through. Only really old doors might be one solid piece (a slab).

Modern solid doors are made from a number of solid pieces glued together in a frame and panel construction.

You might also find flush (flat) doors that have solid wood pieces inside and a veneer on the outside. When looking at a door that has solid strips glued together on the interior, you may want to know the size of the pieces of wood. Some companies may call this “engineered” if the solid wood pieces are as small as 1 inch each. This also, of course, means more glue used in the door.

Wood glues:

Wood glues tend to be quite non-toxic and low to 0-VOC once dry, but you should get a sample if you have reactions to chemicals. I have seen epoxy used as well as wood glue and exterior wood glue.

When testing an epoxy be sure to test both parts mixed in a real-life situation to see how it comes out.

Also, look and what paints or stains are used. This door type can be used for interior and exterior doors. With exterior doors usually coming with a stronger stain or paint.

Accoya wood:

Accoya wood doors are a good option for exterior glass and wood doors. Accoya is a type of wood process where the wood is treated with acetylation to be naturally rot-resistant without adding toxins.

They also claim better dimensional stability and less shrinking and warping from moisture than untreated wood. Check their websites to find the companies that work with this wood and their distributors. These doors are pricey.

Solid wood doors are one of the most non-toxic types. You can find solid wood doors on Amazon, you may find a limited selection at big box stores, and many more options at specialty door stores and though custom builders.

Simpler Versions of doors made only with real solid wood:

Louvered doors can be used when not much privacy is needed. The ones I have seen are made out of just solid wood.

You can find them in unfinished and finish them yourself if you like.

Here is my list of non-toxic finishes and paints.

You can find these on Amazon and at big box stores.

Solid wood barn door can be found at big box stores like Home Depot as well as on Amazon.

You could also make your own solid wood door in this style out of the wood of your choice which would give you more control of the process and the wood itself.

Add hardware from Amazon.

Hollow Core Doors 

Typical interior doors in new houses and apartments are hollow core. You can easily tell as they do seem to be hollow inside and are light.

The interior frames of these doors are solid wood or composite like MDF. To stabilize the hollow interior there may be a honeycomb interior (cardboard, plastic or hardboard) and there might be some solid wood in a strip down the middle. A wood veneer is glued on top. The outer veneer surface can be real wood in non painted options, but usually, it is HDF/hardboard. They usually come primed.

Hollow doors could have MDF or other pressed wood products along the frame.

These are interior doors.

What do Hollow Core Doors Like Masonite Offgas?

MDF (in the framing) is usually made with urea-formaldehyde which is the type that offgasses more formaldehyde and for a longer time.

Hardboard/HDF/fiberboards (the door skin) could be made with either phenol-formaldehyde (which offgasses fairly quickly), asphalt or no adhesive, depending on type. Paraffin wax and or linseed can be added.

Masonite brand door:

Masonite doors are the most common door brand of interior hollow core doors. Many want to know if Masonite doors are non-toxic. Masonite fiberboard skins are not made with an adhesive and are formaldehyde-free, but they do have other additives that are undisclosed (according to the SDS they sent me).

Masonite brand hollow core doors can be made with solid wood framing (which would make those ones non-toxic), but it looks like most of them have at least some composite framing of MDF (which offgasses formaldehyde).

Therefore it’s possible for this door type to have very little offgassing and to be formaldehyde-free if they don’t have MDF and if made with a fiberboard that does not use an adhesive.

Are hollow core doors safe for the chemically sensitive:

Some folks who are avoiding toxins or are chemically sensitive do choose to use this door type. Some do seal it with an AFM sealer or shellac before installing them to seal in some of the offgassing.

See the post on sealers for more info on sealing in offgassing.

Hollow core doors are easy to find at any hardware store and are inexpensive.

Solid Core Doors

Solid core doors have an engineered or composite wood inside. They might have a real wood veneer on the outside or they might just be MDF or another composite wood product molded into a shape and painted.

These are usually interior doors.

This is my least favorite category of doors for those avoiding toxins or for chemically sensitive persons.

Because the core is a solid MDF this potentially has the highest offgassing of the door types. MDF is usually made with urea-formaldehyde which is the type of formaldehyde that offgasses at higher rates and for a long time.

You can find solid core doors on Amazon, at hardware stores as well as at specialty door stores.

Glass Doors

Glass barn doors, in clear or frosted

Glass barn doors can be found in clear or frosted and can offer some privacy. The benefit is how little there is to offgas.

Glass and metal are inert. In some instances (or for the most sensitive), you may want to wash factory oils off the metal parts. But if you don’t pick up any chemical odors or reactions there, you may just skip that step. Those that need to go the most extreme, would also want to know what kind of finish in on the metal.

Glass and metal barn door. This style might be easier to find than the all-glass at the big box stores. Both types can be found on Amazon.

Frameless all-glass doors are more commonly seen in office buildings, at least in North America, but they can be seen in very modern houses all over the world.

You may find them at high-end residential companies or you may have to look at office supply companies. Frameless glass doors are all glass (other than the door handle, or the base tracks if it’s a sliding door), and are the safest, purist, least toxic door option.

Mirror closet doors can be safe and non-toxic (but check the backing). You can find these at big box hardware stores.

Solid wood and glass doors. I saw these doors pictured left at a B&B. The doors are framed in real solid wood with glass from a local company in Canada, called Wescon that specializes in doors (both custom and premade).

These are “seconds” so they were a good deal. This is a good example of a local specialty door company. They make solid wood exterior and interior doors, some with veneers. Some do have MDF, but you could avoid that style.

Metal doors

Metal doors are usually intended to be exterior doors. Steel doors are made of heavy-gauge galvanized steel over a core of rigid foam or spray foam (usually with wood framing inside).

They might be coated with a polymer or vinyl that could look like wood or have face veneers, or they can be just painted.

Apartment doors are typically steel in a simple slab construction pictured (the one pictured is by Jeld Wen and is simple steel with paint).

Flush exterior doors often have a core of solid foam (I have seen polystyrene and polyiso). I have seen polyurethane as well. Some have a honeycomb pattern inside as well as steel reinforced.

What’s inside a steel door is well sealed up by the metal (especially if the edges are welded) and so the offgassing should not affect the occupant.

You just want to look at the finish on the outside to make sure that is low-VOC and safe for you. The standard paint on a simple metal door is a primed paint that is baked on and is low-VOC. A simple painted metal door is preferable from a health standpoint to anything faced with vinyl or other polymer.

Masonite metal doors are for residential use (not commercial and apartments) – they have wood framing (real, laminated or composite), some doors have steel framing inside, polyurethane or EPS foam inside and galvanized steel on the exterior (painted).

I have seen folks find used metal doors at used building supply stores. Many supersensitive folks do use metal door intended for the exterior as interior doors, such as the Masonite brand. You can find these at hardware stores and specialty door stores.

Fiberglass Doors

Fiberglass doors are also exterior doors. They have a core of rigid insulation, or polyurethane spray foam inside, and are clad with a fiberglass skin, they usually have a wood look.

Inside the door may be wood (real and or composite) and plastic to frame it. The fiberglass skin is rather thin, but fiberglass is not typically a tolerable material for those avoiding toxic chemicals due to the offgassing.

Though you may find some brands preferable to others, or you may do well with a used one. I prefer metal doors to fiberglass in almost every situation in terms of toxicity and offgassing.

Vinyl Doors

Patio door, sliding glass doors and other glass door types have framing in vinyl, fiberglass or aluminum. Similar to my assessment in my post on windows, I prefer metal. You still have to check for the coating or paint on the metal.

Hard vinyl can be quite tolerable for some, and some brands of fiberglass can be as well. Folks who are sensitive to chemical offgassing and toxins should check out both types, in different brands, if you cannot find metal framed patio doors.

Vinyl can also be used as a skin over metal doors which would not be a preference for me for healthy doors.

Pocket Doors

Almost any type of door including, flush, panel, louvered, and glazed, can be mounted as a pocket door. Just make sure the hardware is rated to handle the size and weight.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

This article is a comparison of linseed and tung oils: are they safe non-toxic, what types of chemical additives are used in the different oil types, what compounds do they naturally offgas, and when do they cure and become safe for the chemically sensitive.

I review the following oils: Tried and True polymerised linseed (pure and with a stain), 100% Tung oil, Rubio Monocoat (plain and a blue colour), and Odies Oil.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission through affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

The video compliments the post:

Linseed and Tung Oil – Chemicals and Offgassing 

Linseed and Tung Oil are the traditional natural finishing oils for wood – some forms can also work well as stone and concrete sealers. Both of these oils are drying oils which polymerize in the presence of oxygen forming a durable and elastic finish. They do not go rancid like semi-drying or non-drying oils.

While all of these oils, the pure ones and ones with additives, claim 0-VOC (a legal term), they do give off natural VOCs, whether these are enough to be considered toxic depends on you and your tolerance. The term “non-toxic” means that the toxins are not at high enough levels to do harm to the average person. During oxidation (curing) of these oils, aldehydes and hydrocarbons are produced. Peroxides, alcohols, ketones and acids may also offgas during oxidation (1). I could pick up this odor very acutely. In low concentrations, these compounds are not toxic for most people. For those who are comprised, aldehydes especially, can be harmful or cause symptoms.

If you are wondering if linseed and tung are suitable for you and your sensitives be sure to test both in the 100% pure versions, as well as Rubio Monocoat and see how you do. For those who like pure natural finishes and who are not bothered by the natural aromatics of plants and oils, both 100% linseed and 100% tung would be great options. I wasn’t expecting to like Rubio Monocoat, the modified linseed, because of the lack of transparency of ingredients, but I explain why it turned out to be my top choice in many ways.

The finishes produce slightly different looks and you should also check the application procedure for the oils you are considering, as well as upkeep

I’m going to compare tung and linseed (including Rubio Monocoat and Odies Oil) in terms of the chemicals added as well as what compounds they naturally give off when curing.

100% Pure Tung – Chemicals and Offgassing

When choosing a tung oil you are looking for 100% pure tung oil. Not the danish oil mixes from the hardware store or anything premixed with a thinner. My top brands are Real Milk Paint, The Hope Company and Heritage. We want to start with something pure that does not have additional chemicals added.

Tung oil can be applied without a thinner to weathered wood, new wood floors as well as some old wood floors and concrete. Check to see if your application requires a thinner before starting because the thinners are chemical compounds that may not be tolerable or desirable.

Common thinners for tung are citrus solvent, mineral spirits, or odorless mineral spirits. The thinners can be very hard to tolerate. I describe the citrus solvent as “brutal” – it wipes me out and makes me very sick, it does not dissipate quickly. Just because it’s natural does not mean it is safe. If I had to pick one I would use odorless mineral spirits which should dissipate (offgas) quickly, in theory. However, whenever you are applying something yourself things get more tricky. If a non-sensitive person is applying the oil you may opt to use an additive that will dissipate quickly and wear protective gear.

100% tung oil is food safe on butcher block, cutting boards, wooden countertops, concrete countertops and wooden toys once cured. (To err on the safe side, wait 30 days for it to be cured).

Apart from wood, tung oil can be used on raw slate (slabs or tiles), it should not be used on marble, whether you should use it on granite is up for debate – do a test first on raw granite. It can be used on concrete countertops as well as concrete floors.

You can use it on metal, in fact, cans for food used to be lined in tung. A coat on some types of steel helps prevent rust.

The companies say it normally takes 30 days to a full cure. This means you may be able to pick up the offgassing odor for 30 days if you are sensitive.

However, in my results at the end of this post, I compare all the oils at 30 days to see if I can still pick up the offgassing. Companies claim 95-98% cured within 7-14 days and depending on conditions, it can take up to 90 days for a full cure. There is a statement on Wikipedia that tung comes to a full cure whereas linseed continues to polymerize for years.

I was not able to confirm that statement about tung after looking through all the scientific literature on tung that I could find, and talking to many companies. In fact, my results after 30 days does not confirm this (comparison at the end of the post).

In the literature, I did see lots of reference to the idea that tung oil has a superior ability to polymerize due to its a-elaeostearic acid (77–82%) content. In theory, this gives it a greater chemical reactivity and excellent ability to polymerize (cure) (2, 3). However, my sniff test at 17 and 30 days revealed more offgassing of tung than all of the linseeds I tested.

The offgassing odors of tung are a little different from linseed. In my assessment, tung is not as pungent when in liquid form, but they both offgas similar VOCs while curing. During oxidation aldehydes and hydrocarbons offgas. Peroxides, alcohols, ketones and acids may also offgas during curing. (1). At the end the two had reversed in my assessment: tung was the strongest at 30 days.

How to apply it instructions here.

Linseed Oil – Chemicals and Offgassing

Linseed comes in three types:

1.  Raw, which is pure, not usually used for wood, as it takes a long time to dry and is often cut with a thinner.

2. “Boiled” which has driers, usually metals like cobalt, or petroleum (which I would want to avoid), this version could be considered toxic if it has toxic metals.

3. Polymerized/stand oil which is pure, food-safe, and faster to dry. This oil does not require a thinner. Polymerised is the type you want to use. I like the brand Tried and True because it’s pure 100% linseed, and because of their total transparency with ingredients and additives.

The odors of these oils (and the citrus solvent) comes from their naturally occurring VOCs (4). For the chemically sensitive, these two oils have odors that are stronger than some other finishes. The solvents/thinners should be tested separately, are not always tolerable (or needed). The pungent smell of linseed comes mostly from the aldehydes (5). You should see if the pure version works for you. I prefer to use this on applications that do not require solvents/thinners.

Linseed will dry within a few days. But according to the literature, the drying reaction of linseed oil continues for many years even when the oil film seems to completely dry in a few days (7).

You can speed up the offgassing by increasing temperature and decreasing humidity. Raw linseed might be different in this regard compared to modified oils with driers.

Tung oil has milder offgassing compared to polymerized linseed in my assessment at first, but at the end of the 30 days, tung had a stronger odor left. Rubio Monocoat (modified linseed with driers), was the exception, it was far less pungent than either polymerized linseed or tung.

Other areas to use linseed – it should not be used on marble or granite. Odies Oil has been used as a concrete sealer which I am quite certain is linseed based, but the ingredients are not disclosed. In the video, I discuss why I think Odies Oil is linseed based.

Here are the instructions for the application of polymerized linseed oil.

Is Linseed Mold-Prone?

Woodworkers having varying opinions on the two oils, each camp preferring one over the other with some noting caution to linseed as being less mold resistant in certain conditions. Outside in high humidity linseed does not do well. For indoors with regular humidity levels, linseed will work just fine, and I have no trouble recommending it. Tung oil has the advantage of holding up well to water and mildew outside.

Brands of Linseed:

Rubio Monocoat

Rubio Monocoat makes linseed based finishes (natural and modified) that smell like honey or lemony incense. It contains a wax component (natural and modified) as well. They claim zero-VOCs but you should test any linseed product before using it.

The accelerator which is a part B drying agent lists hexamethylene diisocyanate as an ingredient (0.5%), but not all ingredients are listed. Because part A (without the drier) takes a very long time to dry, it sounds like part raw linseed to me (though it does not smell like raw linseed). This means Part B is unknown driers and hexamethylene diisocyanate.

It does contain non-aromatic hydrocarbons, I could not get the company to claim no metallic driers, but they do claim no solvents. I will always prefer brands that disclose all their ingredients.

Sensitive folks reporting that they really like this brand is important and caused me to seriously consider it. It turned out to be my top pick based on odors, offgassing level as well as personal tolerance. I was surprised by how mild it was from start to finish, though I did still pick up an odor at 30 days in the plain color.

I was very impressed with Sapphire which I found cured to my nose at 30 days.  Because it’s easy to apply, easy to touch up and seemed to have the least offgassing, much lower than I expected, I have to say it is my top pick. Though with reservations, since we don’t know everything that is in it.

I would personally be reluctant to use this on large products like floors since it has unknown ingredients and I might not be picking up all of the offgassing with my nose. I would, however, feel more confident using this on cabinets or furniture, since it tested so well for me personally. I would like the company to confirm no metals since metals are a major health problem for many of us.

This brand offers unique colors in their stains that no other natural option offers (greys and white). Be sure to sample both Part A and Part B as well as different colors, which for me tested quite different. I tested plain and sapphire.

Rubio Monocoat (Part A & B mixed) takes one week to cure, they say. You could use just part A which takes 3 weeks to dry.

Although I say in the video it is approaching offgassed at 48 hours, at one week my sense of smell ramped way up (due to a reaction I had to something else), at this point, I could still smell it very noticeably. So the time that it cures will very much be dependent on you and your level of sensitivity.

Tried and True – Polymerised Linseed

Tried and True is my top recommendation for pure linseed with a stain because it is pure linseed and because of their disclosure of ingredients. No driers are used. This company can claim that metals are not a component in their pigments other than what comes naturally from the soil.

I really liked the look of the Java stain (pictured), it went on beautifully even though I did not prep my wood properly. That’s going to give you a high-quality stain/finish in one. I was really impressed with how the stain looked after my disaster trying to mix my own pigments with hemp oil.

They offer versions with waxes and resins as well, check out the different formulas to see which suits your project.

Other Brands

Fusion is a similar oil and stain in one but they don’t reveal all the siccatives (driers). This brand does have other products that I am a fan of, but unknown driers is not one of them.

Oils labeled as teak oil or danish oil from hardware stores are usually a mix of oils like linseed or tung, solvents, and possibly resins, UV inhibitors and mildewcides.

Odies Oil (Universal Finish)

Odies Oil (the Universal Finish) is another oil I tested in the video.

I suspect this to be a linseed based finish. The ingredients are listed as: lubricating oil, drying oil, natural waxes; essential oil. They claim solvent-free, that it contains UV inhibitors, and it has the warning for spontaneous combustion (which is seen on almost all drying oils).

I made the following mix which came close to the odor of Odies: mineral oil, linseed, beeswax, carnauba wax, lemon and orange oil. I did not get the exact match but it seemed pretty close. There is still is another essential oil I think, lavender or similar, something flowery. And there is a different mix of waxes I think, compared to my guess. But I got quite close to their mix, according to my nose.

This tested quite strong to me at first, with the essential oils being overpowering for me in the first 24 hours, but at 48 hours that had faded significantly, and what smelled to me like linseed was then dominant. Those who are reactive to essential oils will likely have trouble with this one and might not find it fades as quickly as I did.

As always, I’m not a fan of using products that I don’t know the ingredients of, we don’t know if there are toxins in here, but it did cure faster than some of the others.

They claim 2-3 weeks to cure.

My Test Results

My test results at 24 and 48 hours are in the video.

My testing at 17 days 

• Rubio 1st place 
• Tried and True Java 2nd place
• Odies Oil and Tried and True still quite noticeable odor, 3rd place
• Tung actually the strongest at 17 days, last place

My testing at 30 days when they should all be “cured”

• Rubio plain – I can pick up the Rubio plain at 30 days though it is very light. My nose is unable to pick up any offgassing from the Rubio Sapphire – this is the only one that seems totally cured to me at 30 days 1st place.
• Rubio plain is in 2nd place
• Odies oil – very slight odor in 3rd place for offgassing levels
• Tried and True Java in 4th place very slight odor
• Polymerized linseed – Tried and True plain still offgassing 5th place
• Tung oil – strongest one. I do not agree that tung oil cures in 30 days, at 30 days I can still pick up the odor of one coat. I kept it at 30C and about 50% humidity. I cannot say it is 100% offgassed. Last place.

Other Options

If these two don’t work for you, try hemp oil. I was really happy with pure refined hemp oil. If you want a totally natural purist option, hemp is a good choice. It’s not as strong of an odor as the others.

Other finishing oils reviewed in my main post on finishes are coconut, walnut and rosewood. That post is also a comprehensive overview of water-based 0-VOC and non-toxic finishes for wood as well as stone and masonry.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Sources for this Post

 1. EPA 1991 Impact Of Declaring Soybean Oil Exempt From VOC Regulations On The Coatings Program  

2. Modern Technology of Paints, Varnishes & Lacquers (2nd Edition), NIIR Board February 7, 2007, ASIA PACIFIC BUSINESS PRESS Inc. 

3. Meiorin, C., Aranguren, M. I., & Mosiewicki, M. A. (2015). Polymeric networks based on tung oil: Reaction and modification with green oil monomers. European Polymer Journal, 67, 551–560. 

4. Identification and Quantitation of Volatile Organic Compounds from Oxidation of Linseed Oil
Juita, Bogdan Z. Dlugogorski, Eric M. Kennedy, and John C. Mackie. Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research 2012 51 (16), 5645-5652  

5, 6, 7 Low temperature oxidation of linseed oil: a review. Juita, Dlugogorski, B.Z., Kennedy, E.M. et al. Fire Sci Rev (2012) 1: 3.