Healthy Interiors

This post covers eco-friendly paints that adhere well to concrete and other masonry like brick. There are both totally natural and synthetic options as well as those in between.

I will start with the floors, both breathable and non-breathable options, and then look at walls.

There are more options for concrete walls, since many masonry paints don’t hold up well to foot traffic. There are lots of zero and low-VOC products that work well on walls that don’t work on the floor.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Acrylic Paint for Concrete Floors

You can use acrylic paint on concrete though this option is not very breathable.

I myself would only use this on upper-level concrete floors, not on a slab or basement floor which should ideally be able to dry to the inside.

Some folks have an already painted floor and they don’t want to have to grind that off so they are looking for a compatible paint to use on top.

Brands:

• ECOS Paints has a Floor Paint that works on concrete, and a Porch & Floor Paint that works on exterior concrete. The Porch & Floor Paint is the most durable and is usually used on interior concrete floors. ECOS products are made for the chemically sensitive and are zero-VOC at 14 days.
• ECOS Concrete Stabilizer – is a primer of sorts – is used before painting if the concrete surface is worn, chalky, or weathered. Ideal for use as a pre-treatment before painting. This is acrylic based, it’s not a densifier.
• AFM Safecoat Concrete Floor Paint – Zero VOC. This is an acrylic base paint with PVA. This concrete floor paint is made for the chemically sensitive.

Breathable Paint for Concrete Floors

A concrete slab or basement floor should ideally remain breathable. The slab is always trying to dry to the inside and trapping moisture leads to major funk underneath that does come through.

Breathable paints are called mineral paints and they are silicate-based. These can be very low in VOCs and toxins. But silicate paints are not durable enough for a floor.

On bare concrete, you can paint on Milk Paint and coat it when dry with a drying oil. Hemp and Tung both work. Tung forms a thicker film and has a stronger natural odor. Though there is some controversy over using milk paint and oils on concrete. This certainly would not be a conventional finish.

There are water-based, “breathable” epoxy coatings for concrete floors. Some do claim zero-VOC. They often are harsh when wet but do cure up well.

They typically do not hold up in high-traffic areas but they can be used in most homes. I don’t recommend using something that is so toxic when wet.

If you want a breathable coating it would be best to use a sealant that has a color in it (and not a paint), like Soy Crete explained more in the main concrete sealer post.

Breathable Paint for Concrete and Brick Walls (Not Floors)

Breathable silicate (mineral) paints are great for concrete and brick walls. This category of paint is made with silicate binders instead of acrylic. It bonds well to masonry.

Brands:

• RomaBio EcoDomus is a great mineral paint, that is breathable, washable and zero VOC. I tested it here.
• RomaBio Limewash is another option for concrete walls, this is not washable but is more pure and simple if you want something ultra low toxin and natural for concrete walls.
• Romabio Masonry Flat is another option that is a pure silicate paint (no other binders), a good mix between natural and synthetic – just a little bit more durable than a 100% natural option.
• Silicote Paint is another silicate paint – one you can get from Green Building Supply.
• Kiem is the biggest brand of silicate paints and can be found internationally.
• Chalk/ed Paint can be used on concrete walls. Both Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and Rustoleum Chalked. They are not washable though, you could wipe them down sightly if you had to, but they are not super durable without a top coat on them.
• Milk Paint does also adhere quite well to concrete but it’s the least durable of the bunch and it’s very easily ruined with any water so it would need a topcoat. It is 100% organic/natural.

My post on breathable paints goes into more detail on perm ratings.

The post on mineral/natural paints goes into detail on the application and how things turned out with silicate paint, chalk/ed paint, and milk paint. I look at topcoat options as well if you do want to use a more natural option.

For concrete sealers and stains see my main concrete sealer post.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

The type of non-toxic paint you will choose for wood depends on how durable you need it to be, how safe you need it to be (is it going in a child’s mouth for example), what kind of wood it is, and what kind of paint or stain is on it already.

Some of the paints are all-natural and totally child-safe and food-safe, others are perfectly healthy to handle and be around if they are not going in anyone’s mouth.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Non-Toxic Paint for Wooden Toys

1. All Natural Milk Paint

Milk Paint is the most obvious first choice for wooden toys. It’s the only 100% natural paint and it is the safest choice.

It’s made of milk protein (casein), limestone, clay, chalk, and natural pigments. It comes in a powder and you mix it yourself with water.

It’s very easy to apply this to raw wood, and that is the best application for this paint.

If the wood already has a finish on it, I would likely skip Milk Paint. If it needs to be primed with an acrylic bond coat it defeats the purpose of going with a non-acrylic paint (just use a conventional paint in that case).

It requires a topcoat to be durable in any way to water otherwise the finish is quickly ruined. Since limestone isn’t to be ingested, it should also have a topcoat if a child will put it in their mouth.

Top Coats for Milk Paint

If you are painting toys you almost certainly want an all-natural and completely food safe topcoat.

Natural Oils

You can use any of the drying oils which do form a film that makes it durable to water and cleanable.

Tung oil is the most durable of the organic drying oils (just be sure to give it the full 30 days to cure). Hemp oil and walnut oil are not quite as waterproof but the odors are milder.

The oils darken the Milk Paint and cause the colors to lose some vibrancy.

Natural Shellac Resin

Shellac is a food-safe resin that is even used to coat some foods. It’s a resin from a beetle and when dissolved in alcohol it can be used as a wood coating.

It’s sold by Zinsser as Bullseye or SealCoat Shellac, but if you wanted a totally purist option you can buy the flakes and mix it with Everclear alcohol.

Of course, the real purist option would be to not paint the wood at all, and just use the all-natural drying oils and/or shellac.

2. Non-Toxic Acrylic Paints

ECOS Paints and other acrylic paints can be used on toys as well. Once these paints are cured (at two weeks) I would consider them safe to use, handle, and for kids to play with.

If you don’t mind the shiny look you can always put a protective coat of shellac over paint.

Non-Toxic Paint for Wooden Furniture

When painting furniture it doesn’t need to be as food-safe as toys. There are a few more options.

1.Milk Paint

You can still use Milk Paint on raw wood, with an oil or shellac topcoat as above.

You could also put a hardy water-based coating over it (either acrylic or polyurethane), like ECOS acrylic coating or AFM Safecoat polyurethane.

It would be easier to use an acrylic paint in my opinion, if it’s a high wear use item.

2. Chalked Paint

Chalked Paint is also a very low toxin ultra-low VOC option. The benefit of using Chalked Paint is it can prime over many other finishes. It is still a good idea to sand a little bit even though technically you don’t have to.

This is helpful if you need to go over a natural oil finish, oil-based paint, or unknown varnish. I have not yet found something this can’t go over.

You do need a top coat to make this durable. Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is another brand that I like a lot.

3. ECOS Zero-VOC Paint

No-VOC acrylic paint is another option for bare wood or previously painted wood.

Raw Wood

On raw wood you can prime with Lullaby Furniture Primer, followed by their Semi-Gloss or Gloss Paint.

If you need extra durability, you can use another clear coat sealer over top.

If the furniture is made of pine (like IKEA dressers and beds), use ECOS Stain Blocking Primer to prevent bleed-through of the tannins before painting.

Previously Painted Furniture

If the furniture was painted with water-based paint (or has a water-based polyurethane) you can paint over with ECOS water-based paint in most cases with some light sanding.

If you are going over oil-based paint you can use ECOS Universal Primer first to transition it to water-based paint.

Non-Toxic Paint for Wooden Panel Walls

I have a slightly different list for walls, first because in some cases it’s a good idea to keep the walls breathable, and second because wall paint doesn’t usually need to be as durable as furniture paint.

1. Milk Paint

You can use Milk Paint on walls but I personally wouldn’t. If it’s raw wood then you could consider it since it takes well to raw wood. If it’s previously painted wood I would not consider it.

You do need to think about the work of adding a topcoat like oil to the walls which is wiped on and wiped off on top of multiple coats of Milk Paint.

2. Chalked Paint

If you don’t need the walls to be scrubbable, Chalked Paint is more durable than Milk Paint.

You need one or two coats. But again, if a topcoat/sealer is needed it would probably not be worth it.

3. RomaBio Mineral Paint

RomaBio EcoDomus Matte is my first choice for raw wood paneling. If you use the Matte that is the primer and the paint over raw wood.

You can probably do two coats total and be done.

It’s wipeable and breathable. This paint is a mineral (silicate-based) paint and is zero-VOC.

4. Acrylic Paint

You can of course use a more conventional paint like Farrow and Ball or ECOS Paints which are both low odor paints that are the healthiest of the acrylic paints.

Non-Toxic Paint for Hardwood Floors

1. Farrow and Ball

Farrow and Ball brand is a very low odor paint. They make a floor primer. Their Modern Eggshell line is then used on top of that.

This paint does contain methylisothiazolinone as the preservative.

This works well for wood floors. Make sure to read all info on substrate prep on their website.

You can buy this paint via their website or in local stores.

2. ECOS Paints

ECOS Paints Floor Paint is formulated for wood and concrete floors. I love ECOS Paints, it’s usually my top pick of paint brand.

They disclose all of their ingredients and they don’t use methylisothiazolinone. It’s zero-VOC at 14 days.

You can order this paint from their website, they ship to everywhere in the US as well as to Canada and Mexico.

Over pine floors you can use the Sanding Sealer first (then sand), then ECOS Universal Primer, followed by two coats of their Floor Paint.

3. AFM Safecoat

AFM Safecoat Concrete Floor Paint is an acrylic paint with PVA. It’s mostly used on concrete floors, but there are some conditions in which you can use it on wood.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Thermafoil, Melamine, and Laminate are all plastics used to cover substrates on kitchen and bathroom cabinets to create a hard, water-resistant finish.

The substrates of cabinets doors and drawer fronts include particleboard and MDF. The boxes are plywood or particleboard.

This post explains the material composition of these plastic covering options – what they are made of and any potential for toxicity and offgassing of VOCs.

I will look at which are the lowest VOC options and how to seal in any offgassing to make them non-toxic, or at least less toxic.

My main post on Cabinet Brands is here.

Melamine Cabinets

Melamine is Medium Density Laminate – MDL, a melamine resin-coated paper that can have a printed pattern or solid color on it.

In this case, it is laminated onto the substrate, usually particleboard, but sometimes MDF.

While some cabinets like IKEA use Melamine as the exterior finish, I often see it as the interior fininsh of Laminate cabinets.

It is less expensive than the Laminate described in the next section. It’s not as strong and impact resistant but otherwise it’s very similar.

Technically, melamine is just one type of or Low-Pressure Decorative Laminate. The other type is made of polyester, but melamine is the most common.

Most products are prelaminated to particleboard or medium-density fiberboard cores. In other words, unlike the Laminate described below, you don’t usually find this as a stand-alone plastic sheet product.

Laminate

Laminate, also known as Plastic Laminate or HPDL (High Pressure Decorative Laminate) is in the case of cabinets, laminated onto a core as the face covering.

Decorative laminate is produced by fusing together kraft paper saturated with phenolic formaldehyde resin, together with a layer of melamine saturated decorative paper under heat and pressure.

I have also seen this referred to as or High-Density Plastic Laminate (HDPL).

The laminate layer is usually 1/32” or 1/16” thick. 1/32″ is used vertically on cabinets.

Plastic laminate come in many designs, you can have a shiny plastic look, or more commonly right now, a wood look. It often has a texture to help it look more like wood.

It’s usually available in more colors and patterns than Melamine.

I see it commonly on the faces of commercial cabinets used in apartment buildings. 

It’s also the same product that is used to make laminate countertops the best-known brand is Formica.

In the case of countertops, you can buy the sheets of laminate as a stand alone product (not only attached to the substrate). 1/16th is the thickness on Laminate countertops.

What is a Thermofoil Cabinet?

Thermofoil does not actually contain any foil or metal. It is a thin layer of PVC/vinyl that is vacuum-pressed onto cabinet doors and drawer fronts.

The substrate is usually medium-density fiberboard (MDF).

To make the Thermafoil finish the MDF cabinet door and drawer bases are placed in the press. A flexible layer of 100 percent vinyl is laid on with an adhesive and vacuumed pressed.

The vinyl layer has an integrated color or design, and like the Melamine, there is no paint or coating on top.

This could also be called a thermoplastic sheet. It is possible to make thermoplastic with an acrylic plastic. But whenever I have seen Thermafoil listed as a cabinet finish it is vinyl.

Thermofoil vs. Laminate/Melamine

Melamine and Laminate cabinets are often confused with Thermofoil, but they are not the same material.

Melamine and Laminate are made of melamine plastic, Thermafoil is vinyl.

You can tell them apart by the following:

• Thermafoil is thicker, softer feeling, peels off more easily, and is more flexible. If you can see the edge of it you can compare it to the photo above.
• Laminate and Melamine are thinner and harder plastics. They don’t peel off as easily.
• Melamine is thinner than Laminate, though they are made of the same plastic.

Offgassing of Laminate, Melamine, and Thermafoil

Melamine plastics are fairly safe plastics. While there is a little bit of formaldehyde on the backside, the plastic itself is quite tolerable for the chemically sensitive. I cannot pick up offgassing on the plastic side since it blocks the formaldehyde.

Thermafoil which is vinyl certainly has an odor at least when new. The odor of vinyl lasts longer than other plastics in my experience. Certainly, any flexible vinyl can be expected to have a chemical odor.

Both particleboard and MDF offgas formaldehyde, the levels can be found here. In almost all of the world now they meet CARB II levels.

Sealing in Offgassing in Cabinets

Laminate and Melamine both provide a good amount of sealing in of the formaldehyde in the particleboard and MDF substrates. For many people this is a good enough seal.

Not all brands have a complete encasement of the engineered woods. It is ideal if they are fully encased on all sides and edges.

If they have raw edges you should add a sealant there to seal in the formaldehyde. You might have to look for the edges, they might for example be raw on the edges of the shelves, which you won’t see until you take out the shelves.

You should also plug the holes that were made to adjust the shelving and seal over those too. Anywhere where there is some exposure to the particleboard or fiberboard you should seal.

The edges can be sealed with AFM Safeseal or Zinsser Shellac.

AFM Safeseal can use used anywhere where there is a raw wood edge offgassing formaldehyde. It can be layered with Shellac, use the AFM first.

Shellac can be used anywhere where you have a mix of sealing over wood and plastic – for example when sealing in the shelving holes, or edges of laminate that are coming apart.

Sources:

https://woodworkinstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Sec4_2ndEdAWS_SmBkMrkd_141001.pdf

https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1996-05-04-9605040048-story.html

Seal in Flame Retardants, Dust Mites & Mold Spores

1. Polyurethane Lined Covers

If you have an old mattress and you want to block flame retardants from migrating out of the mattress, use a cover like Organic Lifestyle’s Bed Bug Cover, which is also waterproof and will protect you from dust mites and bedbugs as well.

Another good use for this cover is when you are moving a mattress into a high humidity environment like a trailer, or you have to put a mattress on a flat surface like the floor for a while.

The polyurethane did have an odor to me but after some offgassing, I found it to be great.

2. Polyethylene Covers

Polyethylene covers are the least toxic plastic cover but they do not hold up very well after washing and are not usually marketed as mattress encasements.

I have used the Uhaul mattress encasements for temporary protection from contamination or if I need to put a mattress on the floor in a hurry. These are disposable (not washable).

3. Polypropylene Covers

There are polypropylene covers as well, they hold up a little longer than plain polyethylene. 

This All in One cover is a mix of polyethylene and polypropylene and is reported to be very tolerable by someone very sensitive to plastic.

They do slow down offgassing somewhat, from the foam or secondary scents, but usually, these VOCs eventually soak into the plastic layer, so it’s not a permanent solution.

Mattress Encasement to Fully Block Offgassing, Pesticides, and Other Contaminants

Block Offgassing with Aluminized Tarps

If you do not have a choice but to use a mattress that is offgassing or fragranced and you want to block the odors/chemicals, you can use aluminized tarps and tape.

I have used these to sequester many beds, especially when traveling.

Discard as soon as the aluminum flakes off, or face the aluminum down.

The other option would be thick mylar bags (not the thin sheets).

Mattress Cover to Block Dust Mites

Cotton Covers

If you just want a dust mite cover (that is not waterproof, and doesn’t block flame retardants) I use these Allersoft cotton mattress and pillow protectors.

That brand is not organic but they were good for me after one wash. I’m really happy with them as they have reduced my allergies and the price is a steal.

For organic cotton versions, I like these pillow covers. These are still reasonably priced.

A full organic cotton mattress encasement is going to cost more. The Solus brand is priced well at around $100.

Barrier cloth can also work here.

Pine is one of the most difficult woods to stain. It is not often stained because the wood does not take most stains evenly, and when it is done it’s not usually a DIY project!

To really provide a conventional-looking stained look on pine most woodworkers use a dye (not a stain), and likely an alcohol soluble one. There are then a few more steps to get the final look.

Here are some more DIY friendly and eco-friendly ways to stain, paint, seal and finish pine.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

1. A DIY Stained Look on Pine

There is another option for staining pine which is far more user-friendly and is non-toxic too.

Natural oils with integrated pigments work for staining pine.

Rubio Monocoat (RMC)

RMC is a natural-based linseed oil plus stain in one. 

You still get some variation in color. And it does matter which species pine you are using. Be sure to talk with Rubio Monocoat to get specific advice.

When you click on their website you can see some examples of which colors will work on pine. In the Gallary click on pine to see some real project results.

I like the tiger-striped look that you get with the Black color but be sure to make samples (you can buy sample sizes and the full sizes on Amazon or via their website).

I would say that talking with the company is required when staining a difficult wood like pine.

Linseed has some naturally occurring VOCs and we don’t know everything that is in Rubio Monocoat, however after my deep dive into this product I still use and recommend it.

Sealing Over an Oil Based Stain

Over that, you could put Zinsser Bullseye Shellac if you want to seal in odors of the linseed and/or of the pine itself (for those who are super sensitive to these natural odors).

Though shellac is rarely used on floors as it’s not an ideal finish for anything that gets wet a lot, it can be used on some wooden items like some furniture or toys.

Other than this optional (but unusual) step to seal in odors for those who are extremely sensitive, you do not normally add anything over Rubio.

2. A DIY Painted Look on Pine

If you want a really even finish on pine, you should probably go for a painted look.

First, A Stain Blocking Primer

Pine requires a stain blocking primer – this is needed to block the natural tannins from bleeding through.

Usually BIN Shellac is used here, but this is too high in VOCs for most chemically sensitive people. That is their white paint/primer version.

Shellac in it’s more pure version can also be used, which is just natural shellac wax and alcohol.

Zinsser Sanding Sealer is used as a safe and healthy stain-blocking primer but some zero-VOC paint brands make primers too.

Stain Blocking Acrylic Primer

You can use an eco-friendly stain-blocking primer then over that you can use ECOS non-toxic paints.

This is the easiest way to go if you are painting pine with eco-friendly products.

You will get a good block of the pine odor this way as well (both with shellac as the prime coat or stain blocking primer), if that is part of your goal.

ECOS is a good 0-VOC paint.

Using Chalk Paint

The other way to get the painted look would be to use Zinsser Shellac and then chalk paint.

The lowest toxicity chalk paint in my experience is Annie Sloan. You can go to their website and choose a stockist there to find where to buy it.

It’s a very low odor paint, it’s lower in VOCs (in my experience) than regular acrylic wall paint. 

If you want a chalk paint that is less expensive and easier to source, Rustoleum Chalked has similar performance. It costs a lot less and you can buy it on Amazon.

It’s not a washable surface, so be sure to read my post about chalk paint. I’m a huge fan of this paint for what it can do and how safe it is to use.

3. A Clear Finish for Pine

There are lots of non-toxic options for clear finishes on pine. It’s still best to seal the knots with Zinsser Sanding Sealer to prevent bleed out.

Then you can go over that with a low-VOC polyurethane or acrylic finish.

Depending on what the item is that you are sealing, I like AFM PolyBP (quite durable and works on floors too), AFM Acrylacq (for furniture and molding), ECOS for an all acrylic option, works well on furniture, not durable for the floors in my experience.

If you would like to look at more clear finish/varnish options I have a post where I tested and compared all of the eco-friendly brands.

If you are extremely sensitive, you can contact me to help figure out which finishes might be best for you.

Alcohol-Based Finishes

Zinsser Bullseye shellac can be used if you want to block the pine-y smell of the wood and are not using another clear coat over it.

Shellac is not known for taking lots of water well so it’s rarely used on floors anymore. This version (the Bullseye) is also the most difficult to paint or seal over (though you can go over it with Chalk Paint).

It has a slight sweet smell for about 24-48 hours but you can bring it in as soon as it feels dry. Shellac is very safe it’s basically just alcohol and the natural resin from the beetle. 

The Zinsser SealCoat can be coated over more easily with a clear finish (like polyurethane, or with special primers).

Natural Oil Finishes

You can use a drying oil as the final finish on pine. Tung oil is the most durable of the natural oils (this one is totally pure with no additives or solvents).

Linseed oil is the next most durable option (Tried and True is a rare pure version).

Other less pungent oils work as sealers but are less durable to wear and tear and scrubbing. I have used hemp oil and walnut oil and I like both of those finishes as well.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

This is a list of non-toxic eco-friendly desks and office chairs by type and material.

For healthy desks there are a number of options:

• Solid wood is a classic. Most water-based finishes used on solid wood furniture cure rather quickly. This isn’t a cheap option though, especially if you want drawers. But cheaper furniture is made from MDF which is rather high in formaldehyde.

• Metal and wood is another combination if you want to cut down on complexity and cost. Metal legs are generally safe, especially if they are made of a metal that doesn’t require a finish or they are powered coated.

• Glass and metal desks are a totally inert option. The desk top is made of glass and the legs of metal.

• All glass desks are also available for those wanting a completely inert and purist option. Those extremely sensitive to chemicals will appreciate not needing to worry about metal finishes or the factory oil residue that can sometimes be left on the metal.

Desk chairs are not quite as simple, you will have to choose the materials that suit you best:

• Metal is usually used as the chair base, especially on chairs with wheels.

• Solid wood is an option for the seat as well as part of the base in one brand on this list. If it has a water-based polyurethane finish it’s likely safe. Natural oil options can also be used, especially by Amish companies.

• Plywood is more commonly used in chairs than solid wood because it can be molded to make rounded backs and seats. Plywood is now made with phenol-formaldehyde which offgasses quickly. I expect that to be cured by the time it gets to you.

• Hard plastics are popular now as the molded chair seat. Almost all hard plastics are considered safe, including acrylic and polypropylene. Though sometimes they need a short time to offgas the plastic odor. The wood-plastic composites may not be safe (they are PVC).

• Rubber is commonly used as the casters and sometimes as the armrests. SBR rubber does have an odor due to the VOCs. For some people, this will be minor and for others, it could be necessary to avoid. One option on the list has polyurethane castors, which is much healthier. Some options use safer plastics for the armrests. (You can also seal rubber with shellac)

• Polyurethane is the foam most commonly used in seats that have cushioning. For many who are not too sensitive, the level of offgassing of polyurethane is low enough to be acceptable. The offgassing does come to completion after some time.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Non-Toxic Desks

Solid Wood Desks

1. Pottery Barn has a solid wood desk with one small drawer. The website claims it’s pine and veneer. Anything from Pottery Barn needs to be double-checked with the company to make sure it’s not actually MDF and veneer.
   $500
2. Urban Natural carries solid wood desks.
   $800 for options without drawers.
3. Viesso carries a number of solid wood desks. A simple solid bamboo option is their most affordable desk.
   $600
   $1000+ for more complex designs with drawers.
4. Medley carries hand made options made out of solid maple or walnut (with drawers).
   $2000
5. Vermont Woods Studio makes solid wood desks.
   $1000 and up

Wood and Metal Desks

1. Amazon sells metal legs that you can attach to a solid wood desk top of your choice.
   ~$50
2. West Elm makes a simple solid wood top (mango wood) with metal legs desk.
   $500
3. Staples has a sit/stand wooden top desk (with metal legs).
   $1374
4. Uplift makes sit/standing desks with solid wood as an option for the top, and metal as the legs. The finish has been reported as extremely low odor and has GreenGuard Gold certification. Those with severe chemical sensitives may pick up the offgassing odors from the mechanical parts that raise and lower the desk.
   $670 and up

Glass and Metal Desks

1. Amazon sells a simple glass and metal computer desk.
   ~$100
2. Staples carries a metal and glass L shaped desk.
   $265
3. Amazon (Canada) sells this more stylish looking glass and metal desk.
   Low $200s CAD

All Glass Desks

1. Wayfair Canada and Wayfair US sell an all-glass desk (pictured above).
   $500
2. Walmart also carries the same style all glass desk.
   $500

Non-Toxic Desk Chairs

Acrylic and Hard Plastic Desk Chairs

1. Amazon sells this clear acrylic chair.
   ~$100
2. Amazon also sells a simple black solid plastic chair.
   ~$60
3. IKEA doesn’t sell a pure plastic option but they do carry a wood plastic composite chair. Usually, a wood plastic composite is PVC based, so you would want to check this out in person first to make sure it’s acceptable.
   $129

Upholstered Office Chairs

1. IKEA makes a simple option that is mostly plywood (plywood offgasses formaldehyde but cures rather quickly I would expect this is already finished offgassing by the time it gets to you). The small seat cushion has some polyurethane foam.
   $240
2. IKEA also makes a more traditional office chair that is all padded. It’s made from polyester fabric and polyurethane foam.
   $160

Faux Leather Desk Chairs

1. Amazon carries a PU leather with metal arms chair. This is quite comfortable while still being simple in its material composition.
   ~$100
2. Wayfair (Canada) sells this wood and PU leather option that is more cushiony (with foam inside).
   $196 CAD

Mesh Desk Chairs

1. Amazon carries mesh chairs. The plastic mesh will work well for many people. This particular chair is made with polyurethane castors, eliminating that smelly rubber that is usually used. The armrests look like solid plastic (not rubber-based).
   $500-600
2. IKEA makes mesh chair that doesn’t have synthetic rubber arms, the plastics here are much safer than rubber.
   $170
3. Amazon sells an inexpensive mesh chair (with no rubber), that has a cushioned seat (polyurethane).
   ~$80
4. Herman Miller makes a very simple mesh chair with no foam. The mesh is nylon with some polyester.

Wood-Based Office Chairs

1. Eames inspired wood and polyurethane faux leather (pictured) can be found on Amazon.
   $150
2. Amish companies make all-wood chairs. This could be an option for the purist. You can then add your cushion of choice.
   $500
3. Viesso carries a relatively affordable fixed leg solid wood chair (with metal legs).
   $430
4. Eames makes classic leather chairs. This is one of a few companies using truly non-toxic (real) leather. My leather post goes into more detail.
   $1700 and up

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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