My Chemical-Free House

A Guide to Creating a Healthy Home

Healthy Building

Non-Toxic Wood Glues & White Glues (0-VOC & Natural)

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This article goes over the best non-toxic wood glues, carpenter glues, yellow glues, and white glues. The options range from synthetics that are zero-VOC to totally natural options.

There will probably be some unique non-toxic options you haven’t considered!

I compared the odor level of many of these glues when I was extremely chemically sensitive (many years ago). This data has been helpful over the years to others who are chemically sensitive as it has served as a kind of benchmark. I have also used the general consensus from sensitive folks from my work over the last 10 years on preferred types and brands.

Sensitive folks should usually test products when dry/cured since there can be a dramatic difference between how tolerable something is wet and when cured.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I make a small commission at no extra cost to you.

First a review of the glue types and what they typically contain.

1. PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) Wood Glue

PVAs are the most common type of traditional wood glue. They are one type of “aliphatic resin”. They provide a strong bond with wood but not to other materials like metal or plastics. The wood must be clamped and if there is a lot of pressure on it it can fail over time. It’s generally the weakest of the wood glues. Elmer’s White Glue a basic PVA glue is effective on paper but not strong enough for wood. Yellow wood glues are also PVA-based but are stronger and have better water resistance. PVA glues are not waterproof, though there are modified PVA glues which are more water resistant like Titebond II Premium, and Titebond III that I will go over. PVA glues also don’t take stain.

What’s in it

PVA glues contain a plasticizer, and orthophthalates are still used in some PVA adhesives (Pharos). A typical ingredient list for a PVA wood glue looks like this (according to Pharos): Polyvinyl acetate, 2,2,4-Trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol diisobutyrate, talc, aluminum chloride, polyvinyl alcohol, Dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, Quaternium-15.

2. Polyurethane Wood Glue

One of the plus sides of polyurethane glue is that it’s waterproof. It is a one-part adhesive that will adhere to wood, metals, stone, ceramics and many plastics. It accepts wood stains. Often advertised as stronger than PVA-based wood glues, “Dale Zimmerman, a technical specialist with Franklin International, which manufactures Titebond Polyurethane Glue, says that his company’s tests don’t show that polyurethane glue is any stronger than yellow glue” (source). However, end grain joints will be stronger with polyurethane glue (source).

What’s in it

Polyurethane glue offgasses more than the other two types and is not considered non-toxic when wet. Solvents like denatured alcohol are used for cleanup. Gorilla Glue lists almost all ingredients for their Original formula except one small additive. The ingredients are: Polyisocyanate Prepolymer based on MDI, Polymeric Diphenylmethane Diisocyanate (pMDI), 4,4′-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate, Diphenylmethane Diisocyanate (MDI) Mixed Isomers (source).

3. Hide glue

Hide glue offers the same strength and rack resistance as synthetic carpenter yellow, white and polyurethane glues. Though it’s not waterproof, if it gets wet or too moist it will cause it to come apart. This glue has been used for thousands of years and it’s still used to make cabinets, instruments and furniture.

What’s in it

You can mix it yourself for a totally pure and non-toxic option or you can buy the ready mix kind which includes an additive like ammonium thiocyanate.

Top Non-Toxic Wood Glue Brands

1. Elmer’s Wood Glue

Elmer’s Wood Glue is a brand that many chemically sensitive like.

This is a PVA-based glue, with a mild acetic odor until it’s cured. PVA glues are some of the most benign. Though at my most sensitive I did not do well with this when it was wet.

It bonds stronger than wood they say and is paintable and sandable. It’s water-resistant and intended for furniture repair and general household projects.

Carried at hardware stores and on Amazon.

2. ECOS Wood Glue

ECOS makes extremely low-toxic products, and while I didn’t get a chance to test this one, I would expect their 0-VOC Wood Glue to be good.

The ingredients are acrylic polymer, ethylene oxide urethane, vinyl acetate, lye, and hydrogen peroxide.

Wood Glue is a strong-bonding glue ideal for interior woodwork, joinery, wooden floor tiles, laminates, floorboards, cork sheeting and tiles. It can also be used for paper, card, carpet, fabric, unsealed chipboard, hardboard, cement-screed and concrete substrates. Not suitable for teak or other oily woods or asphalt-sealed surfaces.

Buy through ECOS Paints.

3. Roo Glue 

A bottle of Roo Glue wood glue on a plank of wood

Roo Glue makes white glue and wood glue. I tested their glues when I was at my most sensitive and they seemed totally benign when dry. It was one of my top picks at that time (about 10 years ago).

The severely sensitive might want to test out this brand even though it’s special order. Otherwise, stick to ECOS or Titebond wood glue.

Roo Wood is an aliphatic PVA glue that excels in tack and cure time. It is ideal for interior applications where a longer open time and quick de-clamp period are desired. Bond strength is superior to name brand competition, they say. It has excellent heat resistance and good sandability properties. Roo Wood is available in both yellow and clear drying formulas.

Roo Wood is intended for interior use only.

Available in the US and it ships to Canada from their website.

4. Titebond

Titebond is a brand that is often recommended for chemically sensitive folks as a safe adhesive. I had already picked Roo Glue for my chemical-free house before I got a chance to test it. My sofa was later made with this and it worked out well for me. I received it after it had cured.

Titebond III

Titebond III technically has the lowest VOC level of the three Titebond wood glues. It comes in at a minuscule 0.0105 g/L VOC. It does say it has a slight characteristic glue odor.

Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is a one-part, water cleanup wood glue that is waterproof (ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification). It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (like for cutting boards). This is ideal for both interior and exterior applications. The type of polymer is listed as proprietary, though Cottage Life lists it as a modified PVA.

Titebond II

Titebond II is water-resistant and is ideal for exterior woodworking projects, including outdoor furniture, birdhouses, mailboxes, planters and picnic tables. It is also FDA-approved for indirect food contact. It’s a PVA glue with VOCs at 3 g/l. Cottage Life lists this as a modified PVA.

Titebond Original

Titebond Original Wood Glue develops a bond stronger than the wood itself, says the company. It offers excellent sandability and is unaffected by finishes. It is ideal for wood, hardboard, particleboard, leather, cloth and most other porous materials. VOCs are 3 g/l and the resin type is listed as “aliphatic resin emulsion”, common aliphatic resins include polyvinyl acetates, acrylics, and vinyl acrylics. Other websites list this as a PVA glue.

It’s inexpensive and easy to order from Amazon and find in stores like Home Depot.

5. Hide Glue

Hide Glue is the most natural glue option for wood. It’s made from animal protein from the collagen that comes from skins, bones, tendons, and other tissues.

It is a strong, sandable glue with no VOCs, but it is not waterproof.

You can mix it yourself from beads or flakes for the most natural option, or you can buy it ready-made, though those do contain some additives.

The Titebond brand of genuine hide glue is a ready-made option that lists ammonium thiocyanate as an additive.

For the most natural non-toxic wood glue possible, this is the top choice. If you don’t need a waterproof adhesive and are not vegan, this is the best option.

You can buy it on Amazon.

6. Pine Pitch Glue

Another all-natural (but not commonly used) option is Pine Pitch Glue which is made of pine sap, plant fibers, and charcoal. While it’s mostly used for traditional crafts I did recently see it as a glue used in children’s toys which led me to add it to this list.

Its applications can include attaching and hafting stone projectiles and blades to shafts/handles, illumination and fire starting, waterproofing basketry, holding together wood crafts, and sealing seams on birch bark canoes.

7. Gorilla Glue

When I was extremely chemically sensitive I found Original Gorilla Glue to be difficult to tolerate when wet, but not terrible. I was fine with it once it cured.

This is a polyurethane glue that does offgas VOCs. The SDS sheet does say “Harmful if inhaled. May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled. May cause respiratory irritation.” For this reason, they don’t claim that this is non-toxic when wet, but the company does say it finishes offgassing at 24 hours (sensitive people will likely need longer). They also said “we cannot confirm that Gorilla Glue is non-toxic once cured as we do not FDA test it. For that reason we do not recommend using it in applications that have direct or indirect food contact.”

I’m leaving it on the list for your comparison.

This glue is 100% waterproof and forms a very strong bond with wood, stone, metal, ceramic, foam, glass, concrete and much more. They do not recommend it for use on polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE) plastics or any type of rubber with high oil or plasticizer content.

It’s easy to find at hardware stores and on Amazon.

Non-Toxic White Glues

1. Elmers White Glue

The classic Elmer’s School Glue is a basic PVA glue that is considered non-toxic.

It’s generally used for school projects, crafts, and slime. It bonds to wood, paper, ceramic, and fabric.

There isn’t much information on the specific ingredients, beyond PVA and glycerol. VOCs are not listed for School Glue, but their Glue-All (another white glue) has 11 g/l VOC.

You can buy it on Amazon.

2. Titebond White Glue

Titebond White Glue is another non-toxic PVA-based glue.

They say it sets faster than most other comparable glues. It can be used on wood and with many other porous and semi-porous materials. 

The VOCs are listed as 10.7 g/l.

You can buy the jugs on Amazon.

If you want a 0-VOC glue that acts like a white glue, consider the versatile ECOS Wood Glue and Hide Glue in the wood glue section.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Sources:

https://cottagelife.com/design-diy/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-wood-glue/

https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infadh/infadhe.html

https://www.woodmagazine.com/wood-supplies/glues-adhesives/the-hot-dish-on-hide-glue

https://pharosproject.net/common-products/2202604

Least Toxic Window Frames – Aluminum, Wood, Fiberglass, or Vinyl?

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When choosing non-toxic window frame materials, windows made of thermally broken aluminum are the top choice, and that is the preferred choice of those highly chemically sensitive. My second choice would be Accoya wood windows. Some vinyl and fiberglass brands can be considered, since they can be low in offgassing.

For sealing around the rough openings, polyurethane canned foam is the norm, which does cure quite well. The least toxic option is backer rod plus caulk.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

1. Metal Window Frames

The bed in the loft of my tiny house with my aluminum framed window
Aluminum windows in my tiny house

Aluminum windows are the healthiest, safest option, especially for the chemically sensitive. It is what I used in my tiny house (pictured left). On the interior, I added wood framing trim.

Thermally broken aluminum windows are all aluminum on the outside with a foam like polyurethane inside.

What is used in the windows as a thermal break is blocked by the glass and metal so there is no need to worry about offgassing from that aspect.

Non-thermally broken aluminum windows are not a good idea to use as they conduct heat and cold and easily condensate.

Brands

I used DYG windows from Canada. Milgard is another popular brand that makes thermally broken all aluminum windows (US and Canada). Other high-end aluminum thermally broken window brands include Western, Arcadia, and Fleetwood.

Aluminum Clad

Aluminum clad means there is an exterior of aluminum which usually has wood as the interior side framing.

Marvin has a line called Modern which is fiberglass on the outside, and aluminum on the inside (either powder-coated or anodized) which some sensitive folks have liked.

Non-Aluminum Parts

The most extremely sensitive clients can pick up the seal, PVC stop, and some glues used. The gaskets are made out of rubber or PVC. Though this is still the window type that the most sensitive go with.

The final finishes I have seen on aluminum windows are baked-on enamel, resin paints, powder-coated, and anodized. Some baked-on enamel finishes and paints can offgas, the other two are considered safe.

2. Wooden Windows

a close up of a wooden window frame with a lever to open the top part

Wooden windows are usually treated with fungicides, pesticides, and insecticides.

You could use a sealer that seals in those chemicals like AFM Safe Seal, AFM Transitional Primer, or Zinsser Shellac (the Bullseye Shellac is waxed and harder to paint over, the SealCoat is dewaxed and easier to paint over).

Standard wood is also prone to warping and water damage.

Safer Wood

Accoya wood used in some window brands uses a non-toxic process called acetylation to naturally provide rot resistance. 

They use no chemical fungicides or mildewcides and they claim this process helps to reduce shrinking and swelling compared to most solid wood windows. 

Loewen is one of the brands that uses Accoya wood and allows you to choose your paint brand.

Custom Wood

You could go with totally custom-made wood windows, but they are more expensive and you still have to consider what kind of sealer you can tolerate on the inside and outside. 

For an exterior sealer see my post on paints and sealers.

Problems with Wooden Windows

All wood (through and through) windows are not a good idea as they do not hold up well to moisture in the long run, Accoya wood claims to have solved this problem.

You can also consider ones that are wood on the inside and a more weather-resistant material on the outside (aluminum clad) if you like the look of wood inside. 

Consider also the glue that is used in conventional wood windows could be irritating for the sensitive person.

Chemical Wood Treatments

Marvin’s wood windows (which have aluminum on the exterior i.e. aluminum clad) are treated with TimberTreat pesticide, tebuconazole, and propiconazole fungicides, an unlisted insecticide, and mineral oil. 

Pella and Anderson also make wood windows that are treated with the same or similar chemicals (they are also aluminum on the exterior, aluminum clad).

3. Fiberglass Window Frames

the corner cut out of a fiberglass window frame where you can see the foam on the inside

Fiberglass and vinyl are the next best choices – they do offgas, but some brands will cure quite quickly or be low enough emissions to not cause any issues.

Some types and brands are better than others (in terms of offgassing) and this could result in a preference of fiberglass over vinyl or vice versa.

Some chemically sensitive folks do perfectly well with these options.

Marvin’s Ultrex was not tolerated by one very sensitive person though some less sensitive have done well with it.

Marvin has two different kinds of fiberglass, one has an acrylic component and one has a polyurethane component. You may find them to be different – with the polyurethane one being better tolerated for some.

Pella fiberglass is tolerated by some sensitive folks.

Kolbe has their own fiberglass called Glastra which is mixed with another polymer (plastic).

Zenith fiberglass by Alpen is pictured above. I couldn’t pick up any offgassing myself.

4. Vinyl Window Frames

the corner cut out of a vinyl window frame with plastic components on the inside with some grey foam

Vinyl is often not a healthy material, but since this is a hard, usually unplasticized, vinyl, it does not have much of an odor or offgassing at all.

I did not pick up any offgassing on the vinyl windows I tested (and used in a little camping trailer).

uPVC indicates vinyl without plasticizers, which is the most harmful part of the vinyl for chemically sensitive folks.

I can pick up the offgassing in some of them used in apartments under one year old. Others have reported reacting with new ones. Some let them offgas for a while before installing.

Personally, with a bit of time to offgas, I find these to be good. Often better than fiberglass (depending on the brand), but not as good as aluminum.

Fibrex is a PVC and wood composite made by Anderson which some sensitive folks have reported being too high in offgassing for them.

Tyrol is a fiberglass-reinforced uPVC with EPS foam in the interior by Alpen (pictured). I couldn’t pick up any offgassing.

Vinyl Components

Vinyl components can be used in any window frame type. Look into the gasket, window stops, jamb liners, and tracks which can all be PVC. I have seen some companies (like Alpen) replace the PVC stop with aluminum.

More details on Alpen (which makes fiberglass and vinyl windows) and other low-toxin “High Performance” windows in this post on Passive Houses.

Window FAQs

What are High-Quality Trusted Window Brands?

High-quality window companies recommended by architects include: Marvin, Kolbe, Anderson, Pella, and Wasco. Alpen for High-Performance windows.

Are Gas-filled Windows Non-Toxic? 

Windows filled with argon or krypton gas have a higher insulative value and both gasses are considered non-toxic.

Are Low-E Coatings Non-Toxic?

The two main types of Low-E coatings are both non-toxic. The “soft coat” is a mechanically applied silver coating that is within a double pane window system. You will have no exposure to the silver. A “hard coat” is a layer of tin oxide that is applied while the glass is still hot. The tin is a more integral part of the glass in this case, and is therefore not a risk.

Sealing Around Windows

Caulking

The first two I would test out are AFM Caulk and silicone. Silicone caulks all have different odors/offgassing and rates of curing. My top pick is a neutral cure silicone – Chemlink. GE is also quite good.

I have a post on caulking that goes into more detail.

Sealing the Rough Opening

Plastic backer rod (polyethylene) can be used to seal around windows. This is a non-toxic and odorless alternative to polyurethane canned spray foam. It is sealed with caulking. It’s not a substandard method, with some of the best architects like Christine Williamson preferring this method.

Many people do tolerate the canned spray foams after some offgassing (give it 24 hours to cure or more). Great Stuff is a common one to find easily online and in stores.

Handi-Foam is another brand, that is certified with Greenguard Gold for more assurance (but I cannot tell the difference between the two).

Some people use wool around windows. I prefer not to have wool around windows. The sealing around windows is meant to be airtight to prevent moisture issues, so wool would not suffice.

Window Flashing

For zero-VOC window flashing use TYPAR AT.

They do not recommend this being used in the rough openings, and it doesn’t fit all building codes.

Non-Toxic Window Film

I tested out the Sunshield Energy Control window film which does not offgas any VOCs. The reps said there are no adhesives with this film, the bond is created when applied to the glass using a soapy water solution and covalently activated once exposed to solar heat.

The films selectively inhibit the infiltration of ultraviolet, infra-red, and visible light to protect artwork, fabrics, furnishings, to provide protection from UVA and UVB, as well as energy conservation and temperature control.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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Lead-Free Ceramic & Porcelain Tile Brands

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In 2021, I tested 64 ceramic and porcelain tiles for lead. They were selected from 5 major vendors in the US and were tested with a handheld x-ray fluorescence (XRF) analyzer by a qualified professional.

The tiles were purchased from Flooring Inc, Stone Tile Depot, Build Direct, The Tile Shop, and Home Depot.

While there are no official limits on the limits of lead in tile in the US, I used a couple of benchmarks to help me make sense of the results.

The first is the level of lead in paint that qualifies it as “lead-containing paint”. That is 1.0 mg/cm2. 3% of the tiles came in well above this level.

The next benchmark I used is is 0.1 mg/cm2 (I actually used 0.09 since one tile came in that close to 0.1). This level of lead in mg/cm2 could still indicate a level of 500 (or more) parts per million (ppm) of lead.

How did I choose this level that I consider to be above trace? Soil contains 50-400 ppm lead naturally (so that can be considered to be trace, source here). So this second tier level could be called above trace. The significance of this lead level very much depends on how much dust was actually created, especially inside the house.

a scalloped tile with multiple blue colors tested high in lead

Results

Two tiles came in well above the threshold for leaded paint (the threshold is 1 mg/cm2): a multi bright blue scallop design that was glossy from a big box store came in at 3.3 mg/cm2. And a dark blue glossy from a lessor known online retailer came in at 2.8 mg/cm2.

Six more tiles came in tested between 0.1 and 1 mg/cm2 (the “above trace”):

These tiles were:

  • 0.11 mg/cm2 – A Linear Mosaic Dark Gray from a major brand
  • 0.09 mg/cm2 (close to 0.1) – Lantern White from a major brand
  • 0.1 mg/cm2 – Subway Tiles in Light Blue from a major big box store
  • 0.23 mg/cm2 – Soft Pink Tiles from a more boutique shop
  • 0.14 mg/cm2 – Hexagon Light Blue a more boutique shop
  • 0.13 mg/cm2 – Matte Light Blue Subway Tile from an online retailer

The rest of the tiles tested “trace” or no lead (“no lead” as measured down to 0.00 mg/cm2, ‘trace’ were 0.06 mg/cm2 or lower).

Note that clay can naturally contain lead so I did test both the front and back. The backs of tiles had anywhere from 0.00 mg/cm2 to 0.06 mg/cm2. Most of the tiles tested 0.00, and a large number were in the 0.01 – 0.02 mg/cm2 range. So lead was not as big concern of a concern in the clay backing.

We know that bright colors are certainly more likely to contain lead, for this reason, I didn’t test any bright reds. I was surprised at how many blue tiles contained lead. I would be very cautious with blue and red tiles (and other bright colors) even if they are made in America, come from a big brand, well-known brand, or are sold at mainstream stores.  

How Does this Compare to Previous Results?

The amount of lead used in tile glaze has certainly been going down over time. Heavy metal content in US ceramic floor and tile dropped by 93.6% between 2002 and 2012 (Healthy Building Network).

In 2010, the Ecology Center tested 39 ceramic tiles for sale at Home Depot and Lowes. They found that 74 percent of the tiles contained detectable lead, with levels as high as 1,900 parts per million. (However, “detectable” here could mean anything above 0 ppm). (The Ecology Center)

a black and white hexagon mosaic tile that tested free of lead

Why Should We Care about Lead in Tiles?

While lead in tiles is not considered a risk when the tiles are in place (unless it’s a tiled countertop, island, or table that you are putting food on), the dust produced when cutting or demolishing the tiles could easily produce a lead risk.

Just as we are concerned about chipping and flaking paint, in my opinion, we should be just as careful with a product that is installed and demolished in a way that produces a lot of dust.

Contractors are rarely careful with this dust. It is reasonable to choose to take lead remediation level precautions with all tile dust, however, that is impractical in the real world that contractors and homeowners live in.

And also, why are we accepting the tiles that will have lead in the glaze when it’s not necessary?

Brands of Lead Free Tiles

Daltile In my testing, four Daltile tiles, including a dark blue came in at trace or no lead, with no Daltile tiles coming in above trace (though not as many were tested as some other brands). Daltile has a very explicit policy on lead in which they claim only their red colors contain lead. They are made in the USA. They do have some tiles that contain Microban; Microban in this instance likely refers to nanosilver.

Fire Clay tiles are handmade in California. All of their 150 glazes are 100% lead-free, they say on their Health Product Declaration (down to 100 ppm, self prepared, not third party verified). They say that in 1988, Fireclay Tile was the first tile company to introduce 100% lead-free glazes into their product line.

Crossville tiles are also made in America. They provide a lot of transparency regarding ingredient disclosure. They provide an Environmental Declaration (EPD), Declare Label down to 100 ppm and red list free, and lead is on the red list (and lead is not listed as an ingredient down to 100 ppm), and a Health Product Declaration (HPD) for all colors down to 100 ppm with residuals considered. Lead is not listed.

Porcelanosa is a Spanish company that has international dealers. They state that “the tile glazes do not contain any heavy metals like lead or cadmium. This means that their vitreous surface is totally inert. Porcelanosa tiles have heavy metal emission values far below the established limit for food-grade ceramic tiles.”

Clayhaus Tile, a company based out of Oregon state, hand makes their tiles in the US. They state that Clayhaus ceramic tiles use lead-free glazes.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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Natural Eco-Friendly Linoleum Flooring (Brands & Review)

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Natural linoleum is true linoleum. Nowadays, vinyl sheet flooring is often called linoleum, but be aware these are very different products. (And that is technically not the accurate word for vinyl sheet).

Genuine linoleum or traditional linoleum is made from all natural materials in the core of the product, including linseed oil, pine resin, wood or cork flour and limestone.

Unlike vinyl resilient flooring, linoleum resilient flooring is breathable, extremely low-VOC, and very gentle on the environment.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

8 neutral greys and beige color samples of natural linoleum
Some of the more natural colors of Marmoleum

1. Forbo Marmoleum (Residential)

Marmoleum, the only natural true linoleum currently available for residential use in North America, is made from linseed oil, pine resin, wood flour, limestone, and dry natural pigments. They are mixed and then calendared onto a backing. This is mostly an all-natural natural except for the UV-cured synthetic sealer on top and the backing in the tile version. 

The glue used to install it claims zero-VOC and does contain mildewcides (typically isothiazolinones). 

Three Types of Marmoleum

  1. The roll-down flooring this is the most typical kind of genuine linoleum. The sheet has a jute backing and is glue down. You can use the sheets in wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms if it’s properly installed.
  2. The modular tiles are also glue down, they have a polyester backing (not jute, and not fiberglass as some websites say) and are slightly more rigid.
  3. The “click” is the same sheet (roll down) material mounted onto a substrate of High Density Fiberboard (HDF) and cork. The HDF is formaldehyde-free, though the binder is not disclosed. The click-together has the advantage of not needing glue for the installation and being a lot more DIY-friendly to install.

The TopShield2, a synthetic topcoat, is fairly new and is less permeable than the original TopShield, so water is less likely to soak through even if you do leave standing water. However, this is still a “breathable” material. 

This flooring type feels warm to the touch and is not slippery.

The warranty for Marmoleum is 30 years. 

Bathroom & Kitchen Lino Installation

Marmoleum sheet is the only form of Marmoleum that should be installed on a bathroom or kitchen floor in my opinion, and it must be professionally installed. The seams should be heat welded. 

You should also “flash cove” which means the Marmoleum is installed slightly up the wall, as a sort of molding, which makes the perimeter seam much less prone to water damage. Where it can’t be flash coved, use a silicone caulk or synthetic cove molding. Cheryl Ciecko recommends waterproofing the subfloor (with a product like WEDI) and waterproofing the seam between the subfloor and the tub before installing the Marmoleum (May 2023 Q&A Dwell Well). And we are talking here about an upper level of a house, as she does not recommend this as an ideal flooring over a slab. 

The toilet should be removed for installation and be sure to caulk around the flange so that if the toilet leaks it leaks on top of the flooring and not under the flooring. 

Eco-Friendly Specs

  • Climate positive (cradle to gate) from the origins to the final product, without buying carbon credits.
  • The raw materials used for creating Marmoleum are rapidly renewable and have absorbed such an amount of CO2 during the time the plants, trees and crops have grown, that this amount of CO2 exceeds the amount of CO2 that is emitted during the production process of linoleum.
  • Produced with 100% green electricity derived from the sun and wind, not adding any CO2.
the side profile of a grey natural linoleum showing it's thickness
The side profile of Marmoleum

2. Tarkett LinoFloor xf2 (Commercial)

Tarkett LinoFloor xf2 is a traditional linoleum material that is commercial grade. It consists of an homogeneous layer of oxidized linseed oil and pine rosins mixed with wood or cork flour, limestone and pigments affixed to a jute backing.

The marbleized pattern extends evenly throughout the total thickness.

The surface has xf2 treatment for protection and reduced maintenance. This is a micro-reinforced polyurethane UV-cured treatment that seals and hardens the surface. There is no need for polish, stripping and polymer waxing over the lifetime of the surface.

The VOC levels are ≤10 μg/m3, which is very low.

Eco-Friendly Specs

  • 76% of bio-sourced materials.
  • Up 97% to natural raw materials – linseed oil, pine rosin, wood and cork flour,
  • calcium carbonate and jute.
  • Up to 77% from abundant renewable resources including local suppliers.
  • 100% of ingredients have been positively assessed according to the Cradle to
  • Cradle Certified scheme for health and the environment.
  • Lino is a durable product with a lifespan of up to 30 years, as stated in its Environmental Product Declaration (with a Limited 10-year warranty)
  • 100% renewable electricity used to make it
  • 100% recycled / recirculated industrial water in a closed-loop system. Rainwater is also collected and re-used.
  • 0% production waste goes to landfill.
  • 60% reduction in greenhouse-gas emissions vs 2010.
  • 34% of their energy is self-generated.

Past brands: I no longer see a natural linoleum made by Armstrong.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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The Best Tiny Prefab for Mold and Chemical Sensitivities

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These metal SIPS panel homes by Artspan come in various sizes from this tiny ice shack, like the one pictured/featured in this article, to a full-size house.

In this case, a client-friend, Shannon, used the ice shack kit as a safe haven for environmental sensitivities. Her house also has its own IG account here.

This article is a review of materials, costs, timeline, and challenges that would be useful for anyone building this ice shack or a bigger sized unit with these panels.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

The basics

This ice shack shelter is 9’x12’ (108 sq ft) and this one has no plumbing in order to stay within the “no permit” zoning in Ontario, Canada. 

The R-Value of the panels is 28.5!! That is excellent. Your average North American wood-framed house has an R-Value of R-15.

This shelter, as well as their tiny houses and regular house options, are suitable for all climates. Including the coldest and wettest climates. However, if you are sea-side, the metal is a lot more prone to rust from the salt (and I would not use it in that location myself).

They currently have designs for 108 sq ft, 153 sq.ft, 162 sq.ft., 252, 954 sq.ft, 1,026 sq.ft, 1,458 sq.ft and 1,701 sq.ft. They make all kinds and sizes of homes and buildings made of these same metal panels. A 12 x 27 is the largest they can make it without interior framing of the SIPS, so it will be WAY more economical this way. Plus this size can be made without any wood whatsoever.

You can leave it as a bare box, or add the usual plumbing and electrical with or without a kitchen and bath, depending on your needs and local building codes. They only provide the shell.

The ice shack is around $7,000 and the panels ship from Canada. You can get 5% with Shannon’s code 3752, or message her to connect with the company.

Summary of Materials

The ice shack does come with everything precut for a 6ft roof. If you want to raise the roof to 7 or 8ft then you won’t have everything precut. The ice shack comes with windows and doors but if you want something different you will have to buy it.

The website says precut window opening and precut panels. The kit did come with all the fasteners and connection angles etc. It came with the Sikaflex 1a as well and 2 tubes of silicone (the guys used like 8 so that wasn’t enough for silicone). It also came with panel clamps.

You have to buy your own spray foam for the walls where they connect at the corners (unless your kit comes with the corner panels, this one didn’t, but that is a good upgrade to ask for).

The owner also ended up using spray foam between all panel joints, they recommend that on their large builds in the assembly instructions but that step is skipped in the ice shack kit instructions. The client wanted a good seal so she bought the spray foam and did this at joints even though they said I didn’t need to (I would do this for sure if you’re planning on using it as living space).

Roof Panel

Why it’s good for people who are sensitive to chemicals

The panels are made from rigid foam (polyiso specifically, which does not offgas) with steel on each side. Other than the glue that holds the foam between the metal panels there is no offgassing from these materials.

The paint on the panels is factory applied, it looks like it’s powder-coated to me, which does not have any offgassing.

You are going to have spray foam and sealant at the seams of the panels, and these do offgas, so it’s important to choose the sealants carefully.

Canned spray foam for most people is quick to offgas (relatively). Not for the most extremely sensitive. Sikaflex 1a is also recommended but lower offgassing sealants can be substituted like AFM Almighty.

Be sure to test all material ahead of time by getting samples.

You can add extra sealing to the interior seams to help block offgassing by sealing them with silicone caulk at the end.

Also, remember that in a small and very airtight space the offgassing of everything you bring in will be more pronounced.

Is it Mold Proof?

It’s about as mold proof as you can get. Be sure to stay under 12 x 27 feet to avoid all wood.

The other caution you need to take is that if you use AC inside you should not finish out the metal walls with drywall or wood as you could get condensation on the interior walls. Leave them unfinished.

You could also get condensation when it’s very cold outside at the corners potentially when heating inside. Another reason why it’s best to leave the walls unfinished and a non organic material for the flooring.

Build this up with the panel foundation that they make and not on a concrete slab which is safer for the panels and safer as a foundation type in general (since slabs often go moldy).

How long does it take to deliver from the time to order?

When the client asked, she was told from purchase to delivery it should take about 6 weeks. But when she placed the order that had changed to 12+ weeks. It arrived at 16 weeks.

How long did it end up taking to build?

In total it took 27 work hours and there were 2 guys working. The company says it takes 1-2 days which isn’t realistic if you have never installed this before.

Can you DIY? If you bought the ice shack kit with the 6 ft ceiling and the pre-cut everything then it’s possible you could do this yourself. Otherwise, you will at least need some knowledge of tools.

How much time does it need to offgas?

It was 3 weeks before the client could spend a long time in there (like an hour+ without the offgassing affecting her. She did use Sikaflax 1a caulking which is strong and slow to offgas (a better alternative is AFM Almighty Adhesive). The thing is it’s SO airtight that when she added a new couch in there this also added to the offgassing.

How much did it cost in total?

This was the total cost of my client’s build in Canadian dollars in 2021:

ARTSPAN SIP PANEL BUILD: $20k

$6.6k 9 x 12 Kit (8 ft ceiling)
$1.3k Shipping from Manitoba to Ottawa
$4.1k Installation
$3k Windows & Patio Door (install included)
$2.2k Electrician to wire the 30 amp panel
$800 HRV
$400 LVP Flooring & Underlayment
$200 Flooring Install
$200 Gravel & Ground Cloth
$100 Concrete Blocks
$100 PVC Baseboards
$300 Wall Heater (1500 watt metal Stelpro Mirage convector wall heater.)$700 Other (including silicone, sealants, tarps, shims, paint, etc)

(Shipping to the US costs more, $4,900 CAD/$3,800 USD is the 2021 shipping quote to Charlotte, NC)

You can get 5% if you tell the company Shannon’s code 3752.

More Technical Details

Window and door install and flashing

In regards to the window installation, on the ice shack kit assembly guide it doesn’t mention any flashing at all, but on their “general” assembly guide the window instructions are more detailed and they use liquid flashing. It’s definitely a good idea to use liquid flashing.

Avoid acrylic latex caulks around the window and use 100% silicone instead and it will offgas faster. Sikaflex a1 is specified which is strong, and slow to offgas. (Also note, it needs to be over 5 degrees C to apply this). AFM Almighty would be better.

But going back and using silicone on every seam, inside and out will help to block that as well as keep it airtight. It might smell a tonne for the first couple of days but don’t panic about silicone smell, it will go away. (My post on caulking looks at silicone brands)

They are also calling for 1-part canned spray foam at the seams which for most people offgasses enough in a day or two. (Highly sensitive folks will need to test it for sure).  

If it’s the vinyl window itself that is offgassing you can seal that with pure shellac, SealCoat Shellac or BIN Shellac (and then paint over that if you like, or else just remove the pure shellac later with alcohol because it will look a little yellow). 

On the exterior, for windows they said they use Supra Professional. It’s a “thermoplastic” sealant. Thermoplastic is a very broad term they’re just trying to not say what it is. The client ended up using Sikaflex.

Interior walls

On their Instagram, they have a few examples of finished builds with what looks like drywall. Or you can just paint them with Annie Sloan paint or Allback linseed oil paint and leave the corrugated look. The electrical will have to be exposed that way. Regarding electrical if you want it concealed you would build out additional framing for the wires since there are only vertical channels built-in, not horizontal. I don’t think they recommend drilling horizontal holes in the panels. 

In the interior photo at the start of the article, the walls are not painted, they are the original white panel. The interior trim was painted white with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint which can go over almost anything.

Exterior Walls

Cheryl Ciecko recommends a drip edge flashing at the bottom of each wall on the outside side if you are on a raised foundation to move water away.

Foundation

I only recommend a raised foundation (a panel foundation with these metal SIPS). Building these metal panels directly on a concrete slab means they are are risk of getting wet and rusty (Cheryl Ciecko does not recommend that).

In regards to the foundation, the contractor said screw piles are kind of overkill for this size build and that he’d recommend the foundation in the Artspan video: https://youtu.be/K6vroAs1Tro

The owner ended up doing a very simple foundation, just two 12 ft long steel C channels (provided by Artspan) running the length of the build, sitting atop 6 concrete blocks (3 per channel).

The steel channels were purchased from Artspan for $75. Concrete blocks we bought locally. They did 6 inches of packed gravel under each of the blocks and then a couple inches all over top.

There is no exact requirement for how high off the ground something like this should be. I would err on the side of caution and I would try and make it a foot high so that there is not a lot of moisture getting trapped there and the ground could start to go funky/ swampy that way.

Adhesive for the Walls/Roof and Floor Panels

They said you could use a different adhesive if you wanted and have the Sikaflex costs refunded from your kit.

When looking up the Sikaflex 1a – they say it says “odorless” but it’s not in my opinion. The VOCs are less than 40g/l and this SIkaflex 1a offgasses for months in my opinion/to my nose. I would say it hit close to odorless between 2-3 months.

AFM Almighty Adhesive is a polyether which is far better.

Keep in mind that the longevity/life span of this whole house rests on the warranty of the foam and sealant at the seams.

Interior Flooring Material

The owner spoke with Artspan and they said they usually lay a plywood subfloor because the steel facing is not perfectly flat (the design has grooves). You can use plywood if you don’t plan to use AC inside.

You could also go with a really wide and really long non-organic plank flooring, for example, Cali bamboo has a vinyl plank that is absolutely huge called Longboard. If you run that perpendicular to the grooves that are already there, you won’t need anything else.

The client used Golden Select Antique Oak 18.2 cm (7.16 in.) Rigid Core SPC Vinyl Flooring. Plank dimensions: 122 cm × 18.2 cm (48.03 in. × 7.16 in.), thickness: 6.5 mm (0.25 in.) There was no need to fill in the groves in the metal, it was laid perpendicular to the groves with the DMX 1 step underlayment.

All of this is referring to the shallow groove side up – as one side of the panel has shallow grooves and the other side deep grooves.

They said it’s up to you if you want the thick corrugation side on the interior or exterior for the floor panels (for walls and roof it’s on the interior). They said for small builds like this they usually just do the shallow groove side up since it’s easier. If you do the larger corrugation side up it can take slightly more weight, but that doesn’t matter for making a small shelter or tiny house.

Final Sealing Interior and Exterior

Any 100% silicone can be used on the seams. They come in clear or different colors so you might want to check that out. Some companies make custom colors.

Ventilation

You will need some air exchange unless you want to leave the window cracked at all times (which is what Shannon ended up doing in the end anyway, as it’s easiest! Be sure to monitor CO2 in such a small airtight space).

If you do use an air exchanger, you want a really really low CFM here. Even 20 CFM is going to be overwhelming and could make you quite cold in the winter. So I want that to dial down to 10 CFM or maybe even less. If it’s not comfortable you’re just going to want to turn it off all the time. Also, make sure that you can turn it off. I’m sure any of them could be wired into a switch but I would check or make sure they wire it that way! Think about the placement too, and make sure that it’s not blowing on you.

Without a kitchen or shower in there, with no wood and no AC, this isn’t about trying to control the humidity really, but just making sure the owner has enough oxygen and doesn’t have the CO2 go too high. However, that can definitely be accomplished by opening a window and turning up the heat. 

The CFM for the Blauberg Duo is 10-40. It’s cheaper than the Lunos because you only need one. It’s around $900 CAD.

Roof

The owner was worried about the roof, being that it’s just the same panel connections as the walls. She wanted to be sure to really seal those joints well. She considered an RV tape roof sealant on the seams like this:https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B094XP9PR2 though didn’t install it.

The contractor siliconed the seams and they also did all the roof trim, roof panel seams/ wall panel seams (Artspan says just do roof panel seams but she wanted to be safe).

She did end up with a roof leak in the first year. I would recommend a liquid RV roof sealant at the seams.

Cheryl Ciecko said the cut edges where the steel is raw is vulnerable to rust so that may need to be painted. She also thought that it could use a drip edge on the edge of the roof panel, though she did not have an exact specification there.

Conclusion

Alright, so those are the main deets for this tiny house. This is really the best option I have seen for a fast, easy, well-priced prefab house that you can install as a safe haven for mold and chemical sensitivities.

Thanks so much to Shannon for going first and sharing the build with us. You can see more pics of her house here. Don’t forget you can get 5% if you use Shannon’s code 3752 when you talk to the company.

Addendum: Now We Are Getting into the Real Nitty Gritty of the Installation

This is for those in the throes of the install:

Dealing with Exposed Foam Corner Pieces

There are small air pockets on each corner between the female side of the panel (with exposed foam) and the trim piece. It’s at the corners of the build, so there’s a 3/4 inch gap of metal but no foam that runs the height of the build before it meets the trim that covers the corner.

Artspan says since it’s on the outside there will be no condensation there. My contractor seems to agree. And it’s covered by trim.

I suggested she cover the exposed foam with a paint so that it’s not permeable to water, and make sure that it has a drainage plane so that if water gets back there, and it will, that it can drain out at the bottom. Most exterior paints work on foam.

The problem is the panels sit directly on top of floor panels (vs just on trim). So to make a hole under would mean drilling through the 5 inch metal/ foam floor panel, in which case any water draining would repeatedly come in contact with the foam interior of the panel. So we could not go with a drainage point there. You could poke a hole in the bottom of the corner trim piece as low as you can go to find that out if you suspect it taking on water. 

In this video you can see the exposed parts before trim is placed. (At 30 seconds it’s the front 2 corners).  https://youtu.be/K6vroAs1Tro

For large builds, they actually have a “corner panel”. You can probably get them with any package at an additional cost (which I would recommend). The ice shack/ similar kits don’t come with them by default. Their larger builds also come with a heavy-duty metal frame on which the build sits on. The ice shack kit comes with “skids” and with this one the owner added 2 steel channels for $75 extra to sit it on (you can also put it on whatever you want, concrete pad, wooden frame, etc). 

The owner thought that they really need to do a better job with their instructions. There is a lot that’s not clear especially if the builder has never worked with these panels before. She said with clearer instructions we could have easily shaved a day off the build. 

Tips and tricks for Installation

The biggest issue is that they send drawings specific to your build but with no actual “steps” or order of how to do things. They have the measurements and trim angles etc. But it’s nowhere close to enough for someone who has never put one of these together.

She printed out their “general assembly guide” because she figured it was better than nothing. She thought that ended up being more confusing as it’s geared towards their huge builds that are like 20 by 40 and 20 ft tall. Eventually they told her to try to follow the ice shack kit instructions, as it was more in line with this build. By this point the guys had already put the base trim on upside down, but the ice shack guide did help. Except the base is different and the trim is different. So again they were confused. They had to call them to verify they had flush trim (ice shack shows a box type trim).

They spent almost a whole day trying to figure out if the wall panels were pre-cut or not. She was under the impression that all the panels were totally pre-cut— the only cuts on site would be rough openings. On the drawings the only mention of cutting is a generic “some field cutting may be required”. You then have to piece together which panels require cutting. They finally figured it out by looking at the measurements on one of the drawings, and seeing that one panel on each wall measured less than the others, then they measured those corresponding panels on site and found they were the same size as all the others. So they deduced they had to cut them down to size. But this made no sense because by that point they had the floor assembled, and no cutting was required. Why are the floor panels cut to size but not the walls? She then found out from calling Artspan that all the panels are cut to height or length only, NOT width. For the floor and roof panels, no cutting was required, but 4 wall panels needed to be cut. It would have helped it they said “Panel 1, 5, 6, and 8 have to be cut to size on site.”

The next issue came as they were assembling the walls after they’d made the appropriate cuts. The contractors started with one corner and worked their way around clockwise. At the end of the day they had done all 4 corners and just had 2 more front panels to do. She figured out that one of the end pieces had to be the last to go in to make it work, as the end pieces are only connected on one side and just exposed on the other, nothing to slip into. It should note: “The last panel placed must be one of the corner panels”.   

Non-Toxic Paint Thinners (Safer Solvents)

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This article looks at safer solvents that can act as a substitute for toxic solvents like mineral spirits, turpentine, methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, toluene, xylene, glycol ethers, and fluorinated or chlorinated organic solvents.

This article provides a list of alternatives that are non-toxic or less toxic. Many of them are all-natural. But natural does not necessarily equate to safer – turpentine after all is an all-natural product.

I also list one solvent-free option for cleaning brushes used with oil paints. That’s a fantastic way to limit your solvent exposure.

The solvents in the article are often referred to as paint thinners but the products I list have many uses:

  • Thin oil-based paint to make it easier to apply or to extend its life
  • Make spray applications of oil paint easier
  • Clean up brushes, rollers, and equipment used with oil paints and varnishes
  • Wipe up oil paint splatter
  • Thin tung oil
  • Clean and degrease metal equipment or parts
  • Remove graffiti
  • Remove tar, asphalt, gum
  • Clean up caulking
  • For artists working with oil paints – to produce special effects, and to change the way oil paints handles and evaporates
  • Use with pastels, encaustic, oil-based colored pencils, letterpress, and sculptural work
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Non-Toxic Ceiling Tiles (Materials & Brands)

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Ceiling tiles can be paper-based, made of felted mineral fiber, metal, wood, gypsum, or fiberglass.

Look out for formaldehyde glues, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) backings, flame retardants, and biocides.

Know that ceiling tiles made before 1981 likely contain asbestos. Consult a licensed contractor before removing these tiles.

I will review the best non-toxic types and brands of ceiling tiles available currently.

4 samples of white suspended ceiling tiles with varying textures

1. Metal Ceiling Tiles

Metal ceiling tiles come in flat, lay-in tiles that would fit into a standard drop ceiling. They can be used in place of a gypsum or mineral wool ceiling tile.

Metal is durable, generally has no offgassing of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), doesn’t require maintenance and comes in a variety of designs.

They come in aluminum, galvanized steel, or stainless steel. You should not have any offgassing from a brushed on polished metal or a powder coated metal. A painted finish could have some offgassing, depending on the paint. If it’s laminated onto another material then there are other materials to consider which could offgas. It could be laminated onto wood or an acoustic backing.

USG makes metal ceiling panels.

2. Gypsum Acoustical Ceiling Panels

Gypsum acoustical ceiling panels come in a variety of designs. They are made with a gypsum core which is either a natural or synthetic mineral. If you want to read more about Gypsum see the post on non-toxic drywall. They are backed with paper, fiberglass, or PVC/vinyl. Some variations may contain biocidal paints or antimicrobial solutions.

I would want to avoid PVC for most people that are highly sensitive and many sensitive folks will need to avoid fiberglass as well. Paper-backed is the best bet.

3. Mineral Fiber Acoustical Ceiling Panels

Mineral fiber acoustical ceiling panels are made from mineral fiber which is produced from blast furnace and rock slags and coke, lightweight fillers like perlite, recycled paper, and binder(s) like starch and/or latex. Other possible additives include flocculants, defoaming agents, and surfactants. It’s backed onto a fabric scrim or on a metal sheet and painted with a water-based acrylic-latex paint on both sides. Antimicrobials are usually used in the paint and in the product itself.

This is similar to mineral wool insulation, which you can read more about in the insulation post.

Rockfon ceiling tiles and panels are manufactured with stone wool and they provide samples. (Sensitive folks should order samples for sure.) They do have Health Product Declaration (HPD), I looked at the Sonar and Tropic, and they both use formaldehyde as the binder (just like mineral wool insulation). 

USG Astro Acoustical Panels are made with a mineral wool core, perlite, plaster of Paris, calcium carbonate and Kaolin are fillers. One binder is starch and two other parts to the binder are undisclosed (and could be formaldehyde, starch based or acrylic but it doesn’t look like it’s formaldehyde). Titanium dioxide is a pigment in the coating. (source) This one looks non-toxic and USG does provide samples as well.

USG Mars High-CAC Acoustical Ceiling Panels (“F” FISSURED BASIC, GLACIER BASIC, AND SANDRIFT ACOUSTICAL CEILING PANEL) are made with mineral wool fiber, corn starch, plaster of Paris, calcium carbonate, clay, boric acid, kaolin, titanium dioxide and one small percentage proprietary ingredient (source). I would rate this one as non-toxic.

4. Fiberglass Acoustical Panels

USG tends to make pretty clean products and a lot of their products are well liked by the chemically sensitive. They also offer samples of their products so be sure to test these out.

USG ECLIPSE, ECLIPSE HIGH NRC AND ECLIPSE ILLUSION & PEDESTALS ACOUSTICAL PANELS are made with a fiberglass core, kaolin clay, calcium carbonate, diatomaceous Earth, starch, stucco, titanium dioxide and a couple of undisclosed smaller ingredients. (source) Overall this looks like a low-toxin option to me.

Sealing in Offgassing from Ceiling Panels

You could also seal up any panel with shellac and then Annie Sloan Chalk Paint to get a very good seal of offgassing on any type that can receive paint. Shellac provides a good block of most VOCs.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Source: https://pharosproject.net/common-products/2085507#contents-panel


Low-VOC Sealers for Log Cabin Homes (Non-Toxic & Natural Options)

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Low-VOC and non-toxic sealers (and stains) for log cabins fall into two categories: natural oil penetrating sealers and low-VOC synthetic sealants.

For the exterior, we want something as durable as possible. There are two main options here. The first is the all-natural tung oil mix made for exteriors and the second is a low-VOC synthetic from Vermont Natural Coatings.

While there are other options in both categories – other brands that make penetrating oil sealers and other brands that make water-based or oil-water hybrid sealers, these are my top brands and the best in each class.

For the interior, you can use something that is not quite as durable. This allows for more options that are lower in odor than the exterior products. We still have the same two categories, natural penetrating oils and synthetic sealers.

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Non-Toxic Spackle to Repair Drywall

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Spackle is very similar to drywall mud, but this term usually indicates a premixed mud that is made to repair small holes. It contains binders and additives that make it dry faster with less shrinkage. 

The lightweight type will likely contain a vinyl polymer, and the all-purpose type will likely contain an acrylic polymer. 

Chemically sensitive folks can find the odor of the premixed types to be rather strong. Though for very small repairs this might be inconsequential for many people. Sensitive folks should consider using one of the following dry mix products as a sparkle or patching compound.

a man's hand applying sparkle to holes in a off white wall

The following dry mix joint compounds like can be used as a spackle to make small repairs to walls.

Precautions with dry mixes – though they don’t contain VOCs, the powder can be harmful to breath in. They can contain crystalline silica (quartz) as an impurity. Wear an appropriate mask when mixing it or handling the powder.

1. USG Easy Sand (Powder)

The fact that Easy Sand 90 comes in a small bag makes it the most convienent option on the list. It’s also the least expensive.

The company says this is ideal as a patching compound.

This powdered drywall mud is made of plaster of Paris, limestone, attapulgite, perlite and calcium sulphate dehydrate and it’s zero-VOC. It has very low to no odor.

A small bag is under $20 from Amazon.

2. Murco M-100 (Powder)

Small amounts of Murco M-100 mixed with water can be used for simple hole patching or similar applications on interior walls and ceilings.

This product is free of VOC’s, preservatives, fungicide’s, mildewcides and petroleum products. It is made with only inert fillers and natural binders. It contains no slow releasing compounds and mixes easily with tap water. The product is marketed as hypoallergenic because it has smaller, less irritating particulates than regular drywall mud.

This is certainly a favorite brand of drywall mud amongst the chemically sensitive.

In very small quantities it can be mixed with a whisk to create a spackle. Mix till saturated. It dries to the touch in 30-60 minutes.

A 25-35 lb bag is $30 from GDC Building for Health

3. ECOS Interior Filler (Powder)

ECOS Interior Filler powder is a gypsum spackle in powder form designed to fill small and large holes and joints in drywall/sheetrock. It is odorless and zero-VOC.

Mix 2 parts with 1 part water to a smooth paste. The filler is ready for use in about one minute and remains workable for more than 20 minutes. Press filler paste into hole with a filling knife or trowel. Fill the hole slightly proud, or slightly higher than the surface, for sanding purposes. Sand, when fully dry, to a smooth flat surface and brush/wipe free of dust.

Before painting, spot seal/prime with one coat of ECOS Filler-Sealer or ECOS Primer before painting. Spot priming first helps seal the powder and evens out the appearance.

A quart is $40 From ECOS Paints

What about SafeMend? This product might be great, but we don’t know what is in it and the company has not declared the VOCs. I have not tested it and I couldn’t find sensitive folks that have tested it, so I cannot make a real judgement on it.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Non-Toxic Grout Sealer Options

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Whether you need a grout sealer depends very much on the situation. A grout sealer could actually do more harm than good.

For that reason, I will list out the non-toxic sealer options by application and then by type of sealer.

The siliconates and silicates (densifiers) are the most tolerable least toxic option, they are a very benign product. Topcoats of acrylic or polyurethane do have some odor and offgassing at first, but the offgassing comes to completion in a short time.

There is also the possibility of going with a natural product, some natural penetrating oils can be used on concrete grout.

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