Healthy Building

What is Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring is a click together floor made of a fiberboard base and a printed image on top.

It is distinct from:

• Engineered wood, which has a real solid wood layer on top of a plywood or fiberboard substrate
• Luxury vinyl plank (LVP), which is a mix of PVC, limestone and plasticizers with a vinyl top layer
• and Hybrid floors, which have a PVC/limestone base and a real wood top layer

People often mix up laminate flooring and LVP. You will often hear LVP mistakingly referred to as laminate.

Laminate flooring does not contain any vinyl or solid wood layers.

If you are interested in engineered wood, LVP, or hybrid floors, see my main flooring post.

Chemical Composition of Laminate Floors – Are Laminate Floors Toxic

HDF (High Density Fibreboard) Core:

• Softwood and hardwood fibers – around 75-85%
• Urea-formaldehyde, or melamine urea-formaldehyde as the binder – around 11-13%
• Paraffin – is added at water repellant – around 4% or less
• Ammonia – sometimes added as a formaldehyde scavenger (to reduce formaldehyde levels)

(There used to be brands using MDF as the core, but now I only see HDF versions).

Top layer:

• Printed imagine that usually looks like wood
• A top coat typically made up of several coats of melamine-urethane impregnated paper with aluminum oxide, though some have a lacquer finish

Backing:

• Sometimes there is another melamine thin layer as the backing or an integrated foam underlayment made of high-density polyethylene (HDPE). I don’t find that there is any offgassing in that underlayment.

What about Isocyanates and Cyanuric acid?

There are other websites that seem to just be copying and pasting information from each other, these blogs list isocyanates and cyanuric acid as components of laminate flooring.

There is no company, as far as I know, using MDI based glues which can offgas isocyanates.

Cyanuric acid may be found as an impurity of melamine but is not a component in melamine and I would not expect to find this leaching from floors. This is a chemical used in swimming pools and is harmful if swallowed. (Source)

Is Aluminum Oxide Toxic?

You would have to breathe in or ingest aluminum oxide for it to be toxic. I take an extreme approach personally to metal avoidance, but I am not worried about metals that are in solid form and won’t find their way into your body.

The finish on laminate (which usually includes aluminum oxide) is very durable and this is not a floor that you will be re-sanding (you can’t re-sand laminate). If the flooring is getting worn down that is time to replace it anyway. But that will take quite a while.

Level of Formaldehyde Offgassing From Laminate

The only real chemical of concern here is formaldehyde.

Formaldehyde levels in laminate flooring are very low now. I don’t believe any brands are formaldehyde-free (or no added formaldehyde). Melamine formaldehyde offgasses less formaldehyde than urea-formaldehyde  (Source).

Many laminate brands are GreenGuard Gold certified. This means they offgas no more than 0.0073 ppm formaldehyde. The outdoor level of formaldehyde in urban areas is 0.0015 – 0.047 ppm (source).

Laminate Flooring Brands that are Certified GreenGuard Gold Include:

• Swiss Krono
• Home Decorators Collection
• Traffic Master
• Pergo used to have Greenguard Gold certification before they were bought out by Mohawk. I don’t think the glues have likely changed, Mohawk simply doesn’t use Greenguard. Judging from the samples I received, this uses the same glue the others.

(If it meets GreenGuard Gold then it certainly exceeds E-0 limits of 0.07 ppm formaldehyde and E-1 limits, which are even higher).

How Long Does it Take Laminate Flooring to Fully Offgas

Lynn Baker, an air pollution specialist with the California Air Resources Board (CARB) says “you’ll get a fairly large amount that off-gasses early on, and then it starts to become less over a period ranging from months to a couple of years depending on the amounts contained in the product” Source.

Years ago high formaldehyde products like MDF made with urea-formaldehyde could take 7+ years to offgas but products with lower levels of formaldehyde and products made from phenol or melamine-formaldehyde offgas less and take much less time.

In my observation, laminate flooring is mostly offgassed in the first few months and is usually fully offgassed within a couple of years.

Other Chemicals Used in Installing Laminate Flooring

Adhesives

While you can glue down laminate flooring, it’s not done that often. There is no situation in which it would be necessary to glue down laminate flooring. I definitely would not glue this down.

Underlayment

I like the brands that include an attached polyethylene foam underlayment. But if you don’t start with one of those brands you can check out the options in my post on underlayment.

Other Flooring with an HDF Core

Other floorings with the same basic HDF core include Marmoleum Click (the top flooring sample in the stack in the above photo), and cork flooring with an HDF core – (second sample from the bottom, in the pic).

The product Hardboard is also HDF but the chemical composition is a little bit different. It’s got more wood fiber and less binder. The binder is listed as phenol-formaldehyde and not urea (source). This is used in furniture, often as the backing (like the backing of many dressers).

Hollow-core doors like Masonite doors also have an HDF skin. Pegboard is HDF as well.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Sources:

• Wellmade Floors SDS
• Pharos CP for HDF
• SDS for HDF
• Home Depot
• Swiss Krono
• Science Direct.com

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These are the seven most affordable eco-friendly countertops. Some are low or 0-VOC just as they are, and others need modifications like sealing in offgassing to make them healthy and safe options.

Many are affordable right off the shelf, but some are only going to be cheap if you do it yourself. It’s always going to save money to cut and install any countertop yourself, but some options involve making the entire countertop and are very labor-intensive.

Many will only be low cost if you already have the tools needed.

I will go over each one in detail – outlining the chemicals and offgassing and just how “green’ they are, where to source them, how much work is needed, and how much it will cost.

The focus is on kitchen counters but many of these options are used in bathrooms as well as for islands and tabletops.

Summary:

1. Starting with the least expensive but highest offgassing option, laminate comes in at as low as $50.
2. Solid butcher block starts at $150.
3. A solid wood slab could be as low as the mill cost if you have the wood.
4. DIY concrete as low as $200 if you have tools, supplies, and labor.
5. A tiled countertop can be as low as $130 if you have tools and labor.
6. Richlite is the lowest cost of the high-end solid surface slabs at $637 if you can cut it yourself.
7. Tadelakt, a very labor-intensive material can be as low as $75 in materials, not including tools.
8. Lastly, bonus option, salvaged stone, solid surface, and wood countertops can be found at repurposing stores for between $45 – $250.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

1. Laminate

Starting with the least expensive (but highest offgassing) material on this list, laminate countertops can be an option – with some amendments for those building a healthy home.

Now, the extremely sensitive may not want to go with this option at all, but with some airing out to offgas it, and some sealing in VOCs, this can be a reasonable option for many people.

Laminate countertops are made with a base of plywood or MDF. Both offgas formaldehyde – structural plywood offgases very low levels (and not for long), while MDF offgasses higher levels for longer.

Companies like Formica that make the laminate top layer recommend MDF as the best substrate, but it’s very common to use plywood.

The top layer of the laminate is the melamine layer. Formica is the best-known brand but not the only one. The underside of the melamine is a paper product pressed together that does offgas some formaldehyde. The melamine top layer does essentially block this offgassing through the top.

The two parts are attached with contact cement.

Steps to make this a healthier option:

1. Offgas the plywood or MDF layer in a basement, garage, or other clean area that is not too cold nor too humid. You can leave this for as long as you need to reduce the offgassing. I would give plywood a few days to a few weeks. Others would go longer.
2. Have a healthy person attach the melamine to the substrate with contact cement. You may want to make a small sample first to see it. Offgas this for as long as you need to. I like to give that a couple of weeks.
3. Now seal up the underside with Bullseye Shellac or AFM Safecoat Safeseal to seal in the formaldehyde in the wood product.
4. Make sure to use a healthy glue to attach this to the cabinets below. I like AFM Almighty Adhesive.

You can also use shellac or Safeseal under a countertop that comes already made like an IKEA laminate countertop, or even one that is already installed.

I like the IKEA ready-made option since the contact cement will be well cured and you only need to seal the underside.

I tested this whole system out in the video below and found that this would be a reasonable solution for those who are not too sensitive to chemicals or for whom this is the only option in the budget:

Cost

A 6 ft laminate countertop from IKEA starts at $50.

Large sheets of laminate (5 x 12 feet) cost $100 to $300 each. It’s $30 for each 4 x 8 foot sheet of MDF, plus contact cement.

A small can of shellac is $15 and AFM Safeseal is $23.

Installation is rather easy for the DIY-er.

Lifespan is 10-15 years.

2. Butcher Block

Butcher block countertops are another very affordable option.

Solid Wood

Most butcher block slabs are solid wood pieces glued together. Wood glues are usually acceptable for most chemically sensitive folks. They are low VOC and they do not take too long to cure. The most extremely sensitive should always check this out in person first.

Like with laminate, you could also give it some time to offgas before installing it. However, for many people, it will be at an acceptable level right away (or very soon).

I like the unfinished options from Home Depot – they are solid wood and you can choose your own sealer.

Particleboard Based

Some butcher block countertops are not solid all the way through. They might be a wood veneer with particleboard underneath. This type is less durable and does offgas formaldehyde.

IKEA Butcher Block countertops are a veneer with particleboard underneath.

Just like with laminate, the backside of this can be sealed with shellac or AFM Safeseal to seal in most of the offgassing.

Sealers

You can then choose your own sealer for the top, either a durable low-VOC polyurethane like Vermont Natural Coatings, or Earthpaint Easy 1K or a natural oil sealer.

If you prefer to use a natural sealer for food prep areas of the counter you could with a natural oil like walnut, hemp, or tung instead.

Cost

A 6 ft solid wood butcher block wooden countertop from Home Depot ranges in price from $150 to $380 depending on the wood species.

A 6 ft veneer/particle board countertop from IKEA starts at $150, a 4.5 ft bamboo solid wood countertop is $120.

A small can of shellac is $15 and AFM Safeseal is $23.

Sealer for the top side of the countertop: Vermont Natural Coatings, Earthpaint Easy 1K, hemp, walnut, or tung oil.

Installation is not too hard to do yourself, money savings there too potentially.

Lifespan – it can last 20 years. They do need to be re-sealed often and sanded down when they get marks.

3. Solid Wood Slab

I have seen a lot of solid slab wood countertops with the “live edge” in the natural building communities where I used to live.

While they are not generally low cost if you buy one that is already made, some folks who do have access to free or affordable wood or a local mill might find that if this is DIY (or partially DIY) it can be an affordable option.

One local friend bought hers from a guy who salvages wood. Their counter was a slab that was sitting in a guy’s garage for over 40 years. They cut and sealed it themselves. They got a good deal this way.

Others have had access to raw wood on their property and taken it to a mill to cut it to size.

Sealers

Like with butcher blocks you will want to use a very durable water-based sealer like Vermont Natural Coatings or Earthpaint Easy 1K or a natural oil sealer like hemp, walnut, or tung.

Cost

The cost would certainly depend on your access to the tools, raw wood, local mills, or connections with local woodworkers or salvage workers.

It’s possible to do this for under $500 even if you have to buy the wood.

4. DIY Concrete

Concrete countertops are becoming very popular. If you do it yourself it can certainly be affordable, though it is fairly labor-intensive. If you don’t use many additives it certainly is a simple and healthy material to use in the home.

This is a non-toxic countertop mix that does not contain fly ash, vinyl, or latex. (Fly ash should always be avoided in concrete products as it contains toxic metals and can contain radioactive elements.)

Adding Color

You could use white sand, pigments, and other non-toxic concrete stains to get different looks. Colorants should be non-aniline dyes, free of toxic metals. Mineral pigments free of toxic metals outlined here can be used to add integral color.

“Green” Food Safe Sealers

You can seal it with a low-VOC water-based finish like AFM Safecoat 2K Pro Urethane from GDC, or Earthpaint NanoTech. Or go with a totally natural option like walnut, or Tung Oil.

Odies Oil and Daddy Vans also make “non-toxic” oil and wax concrete sealers, but they do not disclose all of their ingredients.

The countertops need to be resealed regularly just like real stone.

How-To

There are lots of videos on how to make these, but a DIY concrete counter could be prone to cracks if you are not careful. The fewer additives you use the more prone it is to cracking so there is a trade-off there.

The cracks are difficult to repair in a non-toxic way.

Cost

The cost of the materials can be as low as $200 if you already have access to some of the tools.

Most people would probably need to spend more like $400.

5. Tiles

This is a good option for those who are chemically sensitive. It’s also one of the most accessible options all around the world.

Safe Eco-Friendly Grout

The challenge is that the safe concrete-based grout is not what is normally used for a tiled countertop. Because these grouts are so porous it’s easy to get grime, food, oil, and possibly mold in the grout.

Most people use more toxic grouts like epoxy or urethane grout for this application.

Those concerned with chemical offgassing or those with limited access to materials in developing countries do use concrete based grout.

Grout Sealer

You could add a densifier and a sealer. Some chemically sensitive folks use concrete-based grout and then seal it to make it more durable because this is safe and inexpensive way to do it.

A good non-toxic tile sealer is AFM Grout Sealer. This is a densifier though, so it’s not a really durable finish. But it’s very benign.

A more durable sealer for the grout would be Earthpaint’s NanoTech.

Other Tricks

Use a darker colored grout – this will last longer and hold up better to stains and dirt. If you match the grout color to the tile color it can look sleek and modern.

A very light concrete based grout will not hold up well nor retain its light color as it gets dirty over time.

Not Just Old Fashioned

Check out this black tile with black grout.

Another very modern look is to match the backsplash and countertop tiles.

Lead in Tiles?

Many porcelain and ceramic tiles do contain lead. For more information on testing them see this article. You can also ask the company to see test results.

Generally, tiles are no longer a risk when they are on the wall or floor. But since countertop tiles will come into contact with food, and could much more conceivably leach lead in this situation, I would ask for test results or test them yourself with an XRF gun.

Cost

Tiles themselves can be very inexpensive or very expensive. You can find many ceramic and porcelain options for $2 – $3 per square foot. High-end porcelain, real stone, and glass will run higher, possibly much higher.

Your tile cost could be as low as $56. The cheapest way to do this would be to use end bits and bobs from other jobs and do a mosaic look. You could get tiles for free that way.

Plywood is often used as the substrate ($30 a sheet), though technically you should use backer board.

Your grout and thinset could cost as little as $25 (for both).

AFM Grout Sealer costs $18 and if you want to add a more durable sealer on top of that, NanoTech can be added for $16.

The total cost could be as low as $130 not including tools.

6. Richlite

Among the solid surface and engineered countertops, this one can be the most affordable in that category. Though it is the priciest one on this list!

The reason it’s more affordable than other comparable countertops is that it can be cut yourself with the right tools. Other popular choices like quartz must be professionally cut and installed which raises the price substantially.

Richlite (pictured above) is paper-based, claims 0-VOC, and is fairly light.

Paper composite countertops are made with phenol-formaldehyde as the main resin. Though there is some misrepresentation by some vendors, it’s not hard to find the documents for Richlite and PaperStone indicating formaldehyde as the resin.

Both big brands claim the final product contains no detectable formaldehyde and emits no VOCs. I have found that these brands do offgas formaldehyde when new, but they do make progress rather quickly, depending on the thickness. A thin piece only took a few days and a thicker slab can take a few weeks (or more).

I would still use this product in my home because the offgassing is minor and will come to a completion.

You can seal these countertops with Soapstone sealer (I tried it and it worked really well).

Richlite also makes their own oil/wax as well as a polyurethane finish. I’m not as big of a fan of those.

Cost

A 1/2 inch slab that is 4 x 8 ft is $637.

You will need a specialized blade to do the installation yourself.

If you have seams, they are glued with epoxy glue just like stone counters.

Soapstone sealer is $16.

7. Tadelakt

Tadelakt counters are a unique and beautiful option that are totally natural and safe.

They are made almost entirely of natural materials. Tadelakt is a traditional finish from Morocco that provides a natural waterproof finish to the lime plaster base.

For countertops, the base under the plaster is plywood.

It generally is made in a darker color because it is susceptible to staining. Many use a wooden edge, as the plaster edge is vulnerable, though I have seen many made with the plaster edge.

It’s more likely to be used as a bathroom countertop since it’s less likely to take a lot of wear and tear and be stained there.

The finish requires upkeep that does take elbow grease. 

Here’s a really handy cheat sheet for earthen countertops. Although it’s very labor-intensive, if you do it yourself it’s also very affordable.

Here is another photo of what it can look like.

Cost

Lime, calcium carbonate, and sand are needed with an olive oil soap burnished in. The burnishing takes a very long time.

The materials would roughly be $30 for lime plaster with calcium carbonate and $15 for soap. You also need a polishing stone and other tools.

Tadelakt requires some skill so you will want to learn how to do this and practice first. It’s certainly not an easy beginner’s DIY project. You will want to get this book, watch some videos and practice on a small sample first.

It requires a plywood base which is around $30.

While the materials themselves may be as low as $75, with all the tools needed (if you don’t have them) it can bring this to $300.

Bonus Option: Salvaged Countertops

At salvage and repurpose stores, you can find slabs of real stone, solid surface materials like Corian, Paperstone, as well as solid wood slabs, and other options.

The costs I have seen run from $45 to $250. They tend to come in odd sizes. They may have damage and need to be re-cut.

This is definitely a way to get a really good deal.

While some materials are porous and could have picked up fragrance, chemical cleaners, and other toxins, generally only the very chemically sensitive would have to be really careful here.

If it’s real stone it’s likely that a chemical sealer was used in the past, it’s unlikely it was done any time recently. Check out the main countertop post to go over the sealers used on granite, marble, and other stones.

Look for a local re-use store near you. Second Use is an example of one in Seattle.

You might also be able to access a demolition more directly while they are selling off items in the building.

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This post covers concrete finishes that can be used in a healthy home.

Low and zero-VOC stains, dyes, and sealants can be used to provide color and sealing on concrete floors.

Many of these can be used on brick, concrete walls, and concrete countertops as well.

For those with chemical sensitivities, concrete floors can be a great non-toxic flooring option. To provide protection from stains or to create a more decorative look there are many finishes that are safe options.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Polished Concrete Floors

Types of Polished Concrete

Grind & Seal

The first type of traditional polished concrete is “grind and seal”. In this method, the concrete is mechanically polished and then finished with a topical sealer whether its water-based, poly, or epoxy. The sealer provides the gloss/sheen.

This type of polished concrete is less expensive. The sealers can hide defects in the concrete.

Diamond Grind

Diamond Grind relies mostly on mechanical polishing. All of the sheen comes from the polishing – from matte to gloss sheen.

A penetrating densifier (also known as liquid glass – sodium, potassium, and lithium silicate) is used. The densifiers are very benign and safe products.

The concrete is very durable and difficult to scratch. Some companies also offer a topic sealer on top of that. But the least toxic option is certainly diamond grind with a densifier.

It is more susceptible to staining. This may not work on an existing slab, but it could.

You can change the color of the concrete by adding the oxides (pigments) discussed more in their own section below, to the concrete mix. You can also alter the color with the type of sand and aggregate used. You can get darker colors, browns, or whites.

Finishes for Polished Concrete

Cream polish (burnished) – the surface is polished but no stone is exposed.

Partial stone exposure (is also called hit and miss or salt and pepper) – This takes 1-3 mm off the top and shows some variation in the aggregate.

Full stone exposure – You can see the aggregate. This can take of 5-10 mm.

(You can see what they look like here)

Types of Coatings for Grind and Seal

Surface Coating

Types of surface coatings include epoxy, polyurethane, acrylic, and silanes.

Silanes are silicones are usually solvent-based (and too harsh for those avoiding toxins).

Solvent-based sealers are not breathable. Some water-based sealers that are acrylic based are partially breathable.

Acrylic and polyurethane can both be quite tolerable for the chemically sensitive. I list more brands that are acrylic and polyurethane-based in the section on stains.

Epoxies are a two-part system that is certainly difficult to tolerate when wet. In an ideal world, the two parts perfectly combine and chemically react. The product will eventually cure and become safe.

If you are sensitive to chemicals, have a sample piece made up so that you know how long it takes to cure fully.

Many can be labelled zero-VOC.

Brands for the chemically sensitive:

• Vocomp 25 is an acrylic sealer recommended by Paula Baker Laporte.
• Earth Paint NanoTech Floor Stain/Sealer – works on concrete as well as wood. This is an acrylic and polyurethane sealer. No silicones. The VOCs are listed at 95.86 g/l. I tested this product in my post on wood floor sealers.
• ECOS Solid Concrete Sealer and Semi-Transparent Concrete Sealer – These are acrylic coatings/stains.
• BioShield Aqua Resin Floor Finish – (I tested this very low odor finish on wood floors.)
• AFM MexeSeal can be used on brick floors, certain tiles and concrete.

Partial Penetrating/Partial Surface

Siloxanes are usually used in a sealer that is partially penetrating, and those are not safe for folks avoiding toxins. There are other formulas below.

Brands for the chemically sensitive:

• AFM makes a water-based acrylic blend called AFM Watershield for brick walls, natural stone showers, and concrete. This doesn’t react with the concrete to seal. It partially penetrates. It’s not for floors.
• Acri-Soy is a bio-acrylic (an acrylic made from natural soy oils). They claim this is a partial penetrating sealer. We don’t know anything more about its composition. It can be used on concrete floors, concrete countertops, brick, concrete board. The odor when wet is similar to other acrylic products.
• GBS Concrete Sealer – this one claims to be a waterborne polyester polymer and polyurethane sealer that penetrates and becomes part of the concrete or brick.

Natural Oil Sealers

Tung oil is a non-conventional sealer for concrete. You would need to work with your concrete polisher to work on which stage you should add tung oil and if it’s compatible with the densifier.

I have seen it successfully used to coat unsealed concrete. You can see the process in a video here.

This is still somewhat experimental.

Although it’s all natural, it’s not without naturally occurring VOCs.

Linseed oil is not recommended (Paul Guyer).

Brands:

• Real Milk Paint Tung Oil – my post on linseed and tung oil goes into more detail on these natural oils.

Stains/Dyes/Pigments for Concrete Floors

You can use dyes alone as a primary coloring agent or in conjunction with acid stains, or integral color.

Concrete Dyes

A dye means there is no chemical reaction.

Solvent-Based Dyes

In solvent-based dyes, acetone is the main solvent. Usually, these would be avoided by the chemically sensitive.

Water-Based Dyes 

Water-based dyes are a great option if you are concerned with health and being eco-friendly. Compared to solvent-based dyes, these are safer.

Always check out the individual brands to see what is in it and test a sample if you are chemically sensitive.

Water-based dyes will not create rich colors or hide imperfections in the concrete as well as solvent-based dyes. Though most dyes are micronized pigments that can be built up to get a good color brightness.

Water-based dyes typically come ready to use (no mixing). When polishing you can apply water-based dye. Often the densifier is applied first. Definitely discuss this early on with the contractor.

They are usually zero or low-VOC.

There are some “two in ones” which are both dyes and densifiers.

Conventional Brands:

• Colors Direct Acetone Dye
• BEHR Concrete Water-Based Dye (low VOC)

Concrete Stains

Film-Forming Finishes

These are more like a paint than a dye. Film-forming stains produce a clear or pigmented coating on top of a concrete surface to add protection and color.

Because these are not integral, they can become worn down over time.

Brands for the Chemically Sensitive:

• Earth Paint NanoTech Floor Stain/Sealer – works on concrete as well as wood. This is an acrylic and polyurethane sealer. No silicones. The VOCs are listed at 95.86 g/l. I tested this product in my post on wood floor sealers. This can be used on concrete and wood countertops as well as floors.
• ECOS Solid Concrete Sealer and Semi-Transparent Concrete Sealer – These are acrylic coatings/stains.
• BioShield Aqua Resin Floor Finish – works on concrete floors as well as wood. I tested this low odor finish on wood floors. It’s not meant for other concrete applications like countertops.

Penetrating Stains

This type of stain uses pigments that penetrate a little deeper into the concrete and bond to it.

Penetrating stains are water-based polymers that are low-VOC. They can create light translucent colors as well as bright and bold solid colors. They do not hide surface defects or flaws. They are usually acrylic.

Stains require a sealer on top if it’s not already integrated as a two in one product.

Brands for the Chemically Sensitive:

• ColorWave – a conventional company Colors Direct, makes this penetrating water-based stain. It uses ultra-fine pigment to stain the concrete’s surface. It requires a topcoat. It’s not acrylic (I’m not sure what it is). It’s low-VOC.

Acid Stains

Acid stains chemically react with the minerals in concrete and physically etch the surface. Acid stains create mottled color tones.

Acids stains are a little more expensive than other types of stains. And although the final product is safe for the health of the occupants, the application requires more safety precautions and experience than film-forming and penetrating stains.

The acid is usually hydrochloric/muriatic acid. While this is chemically reacting the fumes are toxic. TSP is usually used at the end of the process to neutralize it. That is usually tolerated by the chemically sensitive.

The final product has no VOCs and generally safe for the chemically sensitive. Though those in the extreme category should proceed with caution.

Ingredients in acid stains can include copper and iron oxide. The acid burns through the concrete and metallic salts cause the color change.

You still need a sealer on top.

Brands for the Chemically Sensitive:

• Lithochrome Acid Stain

Lithochrome Chemstain is a penetrating reactive acid stain that chemically combines with cured concrete to produce permanent, variegated, or translucent color effects. It is no-VOC.

It works well on interior floors.

Chemstain produces concrete floors permanent weathered appearance. Like all acid stains it colors and enhances, but will not hide the unique surface blemishes in the concrete.

• Kemiko

Kemiko Stone Tone Concrete Stain is a single component acid reactive stain.

Available in ten colors, it will not chip, fade or peel. It is low-VOC.

Kemiko also makes a low-VOC acrylic urethane sealer, Stone Tone II, to go on top. This provides protection from water, alkali, acids, UV light, and staining. It comes in gloss and satin and is non-yellowing.

Available at Green Design Center and Amazon.

Integral Pigments for Concrete

Pigments are used as integral colors mixed into the concrete while it’s still wet.

The pigments used to color concrete can be synthetic or natural mineral and metal oxides.

Metal oxides are mostly considered safe, especially since they will be in solid form once the concrete cures.

They can come in powder form or they might be mixed into a liquid.

High-quality mineral pigments should be specified.

White concrete is made from white cement, white sand, and white aggregate.

Additives to Avoid

You should specify no fly ash in your concrete mix since that often contains mercury and other harmful metals.

The percent of fly ash is often increased when the slab is expected to be polished since it darkens and hardens the slab.

Lithochrome Color Hardener is an integral pigment that contains fly ash, listed as “pozzolans, coal-ash”.

Some pigments can contain lead, arsenic, cadmium, hexavalent chromium and aniline-based colors, which are not safe and suitable in a healthy home.

Synthetic Versus Natural Pigments

Synthetic iron oxide pigments are manufactured by using a known metal and oxidizing it in controlled conditions.

Natural iron oxides come from naturally occurring ore deposits that are mined. These ores are dried, separated, and pulverized.

Natural iron oxides come in reds, browns, black, white, and yellow ochres.

Chromium oxide is used to color concrete green. Cobalt oxide creates blue pigments. Titanium oxide is a white pigment that lightens.

The Safety of Pigments

The safety of pigments is not related to whether it’s natural or synthetic per se, but each mineral or metal should be looked at individually if you are concerned about health issues.

The metals contained in some pigments can be harmful in dry mix form (if inhaled or ingested), or in their disposal. Some may be unsafe for the environment (especially marine life) when disposed of.

Pigments can come in powder, liquid (powder mixed with water), or granular (not usually used in residential homes).

Source

Brands for the Chemically Sensitive:

• Davis Colors – Davis Colors makes thousands of colored pigments: synthetic red, yellow, orange, brown, and black iron oxides, carbon blacks, cobalt blues, and chromium oxide greens. I tested them in already made up concrete samples and they seemed great to me.
• US Pigments – they claim these are high-quality synthetic iron oxide pigments. Recommended for coloring ready-mix concrete and other masonry products including concrete blocks, pavement, and bricks. Use in bagged concrete, overlays, stucco, pottery, and other cementitious materials.
• Walttools – this is another brand making pigment to mix into the concrete either in the ready-mix truck or by hand. They claim they use pure natural and synthetic metal oxide pigments. It contains no fillers or extenders.
• DirectColors – sell both inorganic (iron oxides – earth tones, Tio2 – white, chrome oxide – bright green) and organic pigments (their blues for example).

Concrete Based Terrazzo Floor

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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The Least Toxic Wood Varnish?

I tested all of the “eco” or, healthy low-VOC, floor finishes. I was looking first at the odor and VOC levels as the main comparison point for those sensitive to chemicals.

I take a look at the ingredients and claims, but that can only tell us so much.

I also wanted to see what the finishes looked like and how much they changed the color of the wood.

Durability

Each varnish was applied in three coats to oak flooring pieces. Though I didn’t sand the wood as much as you would for floors in a house, I was still able to get some comparison on durability. In reality, it takes years to see the full picture of how they hold up.

Which One is Ultimately the Best?

One of the main complaints of these “green” clear floor finishes is that the lowest odor ones are not always the most durable. That is somewhat true.

I would use most of the finishes on this list but it will be up to each person to choose which one ultimately is the best for them and their project.

For Furniture and Woodwork Too

The original focus was on varnishes for hardwood floors but many of these brands can be used on furniture, wainscotting, and other interior woodwork. I mention those in the post as well.

Brands Tested

1. ECOS Paints
2. AFM Safecoat Poly BP and Acrylacq
3. BioShield Aqua Resin
4. Vermeister
5. Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey
6. Earthpaint Aqualine and Easy Safe 1 K

Top Picks:

Lowest Odor When Wet

Earthpaint Aqualine and Easy Safe 1 K

Close second place – BioShield Aqua Resin

Lowest Odor at 24 Hours

BioShield Aqua Resin

Most Invisible Look

BioShield Aqua Resin, followed by AFM Poly BP

Most Durable

Vermeister and Vermont Natural Coatings

For Hardwood Floors (Clear)

AFM Safecoat Poly BP; BioShield Aqua Resin; Vermeister, Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey; Earthpaint Aqualine; and Easy Safe 1 K

For Hardwood Floors (With a Stain)

AFM Safecoat Duratone + Poly BP; Earthpaint Aqualine and Earthpaint NanoTech

This post is not sponsored. I paid for all of the samples and supplies.

At the time of writing, a couple of the companies – ECOS and AFM – have affiliate programs. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

By Odor Level:

When wet: From most mild to least – Aqualine and Easy Safe 1 K, Biosheild Aqua Resin, Vermont Natural Coatings, ECOS, AFM, then Vermeister.

At 24 Hours – they were mostly all at a similar odor level at 24 hours, though I did find Biosheild Aqua Resin had taken first place at 24 hours.

48 hours – at my level of sensitivity I could not really pick up much at 48 hours off any of the finishes. Some had just a slight offgassing and some like Biosheild and Nanotech were odorless to me.

There are folks who are more sensitive and more reactive than me. Please get samples to see which ones are best for you.

By Durability:

There was no clear winner in my durability test.

The only one I wouldn’t use on floors myself is ECOs. Vermeister, Vermont and Aqualine held up the best in my experiments. The reason there is no clear winner is that some held up well to some things but not others.

And also importantly, my limited experiments cannot replicate long-term wear and tear. I was not able to replicate the problems that I have seen in real-life situations with ECOS on floors, for example.

This is what I threw at them:

• 1K and NanoTech have some very slight water circles from water left on until it dried, all passed though.
• All passed: quats (ammonia), wet rag left one, urine 20 seconds, boiling water 1 tablespoon, red wine vinegar.
• Poly BP slightly marred from urine left on for a couple of hours, all the others passed.
• Aqua Resin, Nanotech, then ECOS, were most affected by a turmeric water paste (30 seconds). Poly BP was only ever so slightly affected. Vermeister and 1 K held up quite well, but all were somewhat affected.
• 1 K and ECOS didn’t hold up as well as the others to alcohol tincture, whiskey, and red wine. Poly BP also had some marks.
• Poly BP failed blueberry sauce smashed in. The others passed.

By Brand

1. ECOS Paints

ECOS wood finishes (like their paints) are 100% acrylic. Most hardwood floor finishes are polyurethane.

You can see a full ingredient list for each product on their website. This is the most transparent of all the brands as all ingredients are listed clearly.

While these can be used on floors, in my experience this is not a very durable option. It can also be used on other woodwork around the house. I used it in my tiny house on my kitchen cart and was very happy with it.

Like with all coatings listed here, 3 coats are recommended on floors.

Finishes:

• Interior Satin Clear – only slightly milder than AFM (not that different). At 48 hours there is still a slight sweet smell.

• ECOS Air Purifying Varnish (APV) was stronger when wet than regular ECOS satin, but better than regular satin at 48 hours. At 48 hours could not pick up anything.

• ECOS Wood Conditioner – is milder than the varnishes, but not totally benign.

• ECOS Tinted Varnish – a little milder than the clear varnish (maybe the pigments are diluting it a little).

• ECOS Exterior Satin – not that different from the interior finish. The exterior might even be milder!

Cost:

• ECOS Interior Satin is $89.95 a gallon and covers 500 sq ft (one coat)
• ECOA APV is $99.95 a gallon
• ECOS Tinted Varnish is $93.95 a gallon

Where to Buy:

• Through the ECOS Paints website.

2. AFM Safecoat

Finishes:

• Acrylacq, Satin – much more tolerable when wet compared to Poly BP.
• This sealant is not used on floors but it’s a great durable sealer for furniture, cabinets and other interior woodwork.
• Ingredients include: Acrylic polymer, Dipropylene Glycol Methyl Ether, Water, Amorphous Fumed Silica.

• AFM Safecoat Polyureseal BP, Satin – this was the strongest one when wet.
• This is AFM’s main floor finish though it can also be used on furniture. It smelled almost like an acrylic to me, although it’s mainly a polyurethane.
• Like all finishes, three coats are recommended. I like this brand because it’s a tried and true brand that has been around for a while.
• Ingredients include: Polyurethane Aqueous Dispersion, Dipropylene glycol methyl ether, Water, Acrylic polymer

• AFM SafeCoat DuroTone, is AFM’s wood stain if you want to alter the color of the wood.
• Acralaq or Poly BP (among others) are used as a top coat over it.
• The Cognac which I tested, had a bit of an unexpected smell. I thought it would be milder than it was, but it is milder than the varnishes.
• I could hardly pick up an odor at 48 hours.

Cost:

• Acrylacq is $85.90 a gallon and covers approx 350 sq ft (one coat)
• Polyureseal BP is $99.90 a gallon and covers approx 450 sq ft (one coat)
• Durotone is $53-72 a gallon and covers approx 450 sq ft (one coat)

Where to Buy:

• Green Design Center for sure. Talk to Andy who is an expert on AFM products and he can give you or your contractor advice on the application.

3. BioShield

BioShield makes two varnishes. Their floor finish, Aqua Resin Floor Finish, is polyurethane-based. The ingredients are listed as alcohol, anti-skinning agent, dispersion of polyurethane in water, micro wax, silicic acid, and silicone.

It can be used on wood, concrete, and cork, as well as wooden doors, molding, work surfaces, tables, floors, stairs, and furniture.

Their Aqua Resin Stain Finish, which is even milder, can be used on children’s cribs, swing sets, windows, doors, and wood furniture (not floors).

The ingredients are alcohol ester, earth pigments, preservative, silica, surfactant, and water.

• Aqua Resin Floor Finish, Clear. It was very mild when wet. It was preferable in my view to Vermiester and ECOS. It was the best of all the options VOC-wise at 24 hours.
• At 48 hours I could not pick up any offgassing.
• Three coats are recommended.
• Although it was slightly less durable than the others, the extremely sensitive will surely want to consider this brand for the very low offgassing.

Cost:

• Aqua Resin Floor Finish is $189 for 1.32 gallons which covers 700 – 800 sq ft (one coat)
• Aqua Resin Stain Finish is $92 for 1.32 gallons

Where to Buy:

• Green Building Supply, especially if you want to get samples. You can also order directly through the company.

4. Vermeister

Vermeister Zero VOC is a polyurethane that claims to be 0-VOC as you can tell from the name. I tested the Satin without the booster.

The MSDS does list ammonia (which is an exempt VOC).

The booster part of a polyurethane is always higher in odor and VOCs.

It was slightly stronger in odor than AFM Poly BP when wet but they were not that different. I don’t see how this product could be zero-VOC. AFM Poly BP does declare their VOC levels at 100g/l.

Based on this perceived discrepancy in labeling between the brands, I would assume that AFM is more transparent and more accurate. Though they could be measuring the VOCs at different times to get those results. Also AFM does not have ammonia, the exempt VOC.

I could hardly pick up offgassing at 48 hours. So unless you are highly sensitive all that is just nitpicking. At 48 hours I would consider this safe for almost everyone.

Synthetic polyurethane is the standard for floor finishes. In some ways, this was the most durable of all the options here (though not by much), and probably the most conventional, especially if you add the booster.

Cost:

• Vermeister is $129 a gallon which covers 300 – 500 sq ft (one coat)

Where to Buy:

• Green Building Supply

5. Vermont Natural Coatings

Vermont Natural Coatings is a bio-based polyurethane. This means part of the polyurethane is derived from whey.

They claim that the co-binders and solvents typically found in conventional wood finishes and polyurethane coatings are replaced by naturally derived ingredients.

I do find it milder than conventional polyurethane. I have heard others say they found this very similar to AFM Poly BP, but this is clearly a very different formula. The odors are significantly different to me.

PolyWhey Floor Finish is a good option for hardwood floors, bars, tabletops and other large horizontal surfaces.

If your project involves vertical surfaces (like bookcases or chair legs), they recommend using the Furniture Finish.

Polywhey floor finish can be applied over a previous oil-based floor finish.

(PS their exterior PolyWhey is also known to be the most durable low VOC water-based exterior finish).

• Hydro Lacquer Reactive Sealer with PolyWhey – this gives the look of an oil finish. It can be used on furniture and floors. Certainly a different formula than the floor finish. This has a different odor, milder than the floor finish.
• PolyWhey Floor Finish – their general bio polyurethane floor finish. This is a little milder than a typical polyurethane. It has a more milky smell when a regular polyurethane which has a sharper more acrid chemical odor. When wet, at 24 hours and at 48 hours it was milder than Poly BP, stronger than Aqualine.
• All-in-One Stain & Finish – their Polywhey with a stain included, this is not recommended for floors. This is milder in odor than both the floor finish and the hydro lacquer.

Cost:

• Hydro Lacquer with PolyWhey is $82.75 a gallon
• PolyWhey Floor Finish and the Stain & Finish are both $77 a gallon which cover 500 – 600 sq ft (one coat)

Where to Buy:

• The floor finishes can be purchased through their website. Their furniture finish can be purchased on Amazon.

6. Earthpaint

Earthpaint’s finishes ranked among the most tolerable in odor and offgassing.

The Aqualine does not have polyurethane in it, this is a 100% acrylic floor finish. There are no exempt VOCs or solvents.

The Easy Safe 1 K finish is a commercial finish described as a nano acrylic/polyurethane mix. It’s made for wood floors, bar tops, gyms, countertops, restaurant tables, and boats.

Their NanoTech is a wood floor and concrete finish made from nano-sized liquid acrylic resin. It can also be used to block offgassing from a previously laid finish (including many oil-based finishes). It can be used on the exterior as well.

• NanoTech – can’t pick up odor at 48 hours
• Easy Safe 1K Floor Finish – this one I can still pick up at 48 hours – though I found it significantly better than Vermeister and Poly BP. Better than ECOS when wet. Slightly better than Biosheild when wet.
• Aqualine, satin – This was the best of the Earthpaint finishes when wet. It does seem milder than their 1 K, but not sure if that is accurate. I barely could pick up any odor at 48 hours.

Cost:

• NanoTech in clear is $98.09 a gallon which covers about 400 – 500 sq ft (one coat)
• Aqualine and Easy Safe 1K in clear are both $139.98 a gallon covering 500 – 600 sq ft, and 400 – 600 sq ft respectively (one coat)

Where to Buy:

• Buy it directly through the Earthpaint website.

Favorites

1. ECOS Paints, trusted brand for non-flooring projects.
2. AFM Safecoat, Poly BP and Acrylacq – trusted brand that’s been around for a long time, I would use both of these products myself.
3. BioShield, Aqua Resin, and Earthpaint, Aqualine for lowest odor.
4. Vermeister, for most durable (but highest odor).
5. Vermont Natural Coatings, PolyWhey – Well-liked brand I like this for a really good mix of durable and lower odor. One of my top picks.

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The most common home gym flooring type is rubber. This is unfortunately one of the highest offgassing flooring types out there. Another popular option, vinyl sheet, is also up there as one of the highest VOC floorings.

Rubber is very durable and can take a lot of weight, impact, and abuse, so it may be needed in some gyms.

But for most home gyms, healthier and less toxic choices can be used. Rubber mats can be used only in high impact areas, if necessary.

Let’s look through all the options for a healthy low-VOC home gym floor.

You may have heard that there is no natural non-toxic sealer for real stone countertops. This is because most of the granite countertop slabs in North America are glossy or already come with a sealer. But if you choose the stone yourself, you can choose a slab that can be sealed with a natural and totally non-toxic sealer.

I tested all of the natural (and one low-VOC synthetic!) stone sealers on many different stone types.

The testing went on for many months!

My top pick is definitely a walnut oil wax mix which has long been used successfully on real stone. There are some caveats – there are some stones and some situations where this will not work well.

This all-natural, healthy, and food safe “drying oil” works as an effective sealer for real stone and is usually the best choice for most applications. Drying oils polymerize, forming a durable finish on the surface.

Because stone countertops do need re-sealing fairly often, this becomes an area of priority to have something low tox.

There are some stones that would do better with one of the other natural or synthetic sealers. I will discuss those as well.

This post is not sponsored by any of the companies mentioned. All of the stone sealers I found that were candidates have affiliate programs, so all the links to the products here (the ones I liked and the ones that didn’t perform as well) are affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission.

My Test Results – Walnut Oil Wins

Products Tested

I started by testing many different oils, waxes, as well as MetaCreme. I tested walnut oil (with wax), tung oil, hemp oil, and MetaCreme on a few different stone types. I tested dark marble, creme marble, slate, and later – white marble, grey limestone, and dark grey soapstone.

MetaCreme is a synthetic sealer, not a natural oil, but it is marketed as low odor and low-VOC. This is the main alternative to the natural oils for those who are chemically sensitive or avoiding toxins.

I also threw in OSMO oil and shellac for comparison because I had those around. (OSMO and shellac are not meant for countertops. Shellac might be used on stone but only in usual applications like artwork).

Oil Versus Water Based Sealers

I found that the “drying oils” – hemp, tung, and walnut all held up well as countertop sealers.

MetaCreme may be preferred on light-colored stones but it did not hold up as well in my experiments.

MetaCreme is low in VOCs but it certainly has a synthetic chemical odor that not everyone will do well with.

Walnut and hemp are very light in odor and in natural VOCs. Tung has a slightly stronger natural odor.

Water Repellency

They all repelled water perfectly. After a water test, none of the stones were left with a mark indicating that water had soaked in. 

Resistance to Dye and Acid

I then thew mustard at all of them, both for the pigment and for the acidic vinegar in it, and left it on for a few short minutes.

The dark stones were all marred by the vinegar which broke through all of the finishes I tried. 

The oil-finished stones were much easier to touch up. To fix those white spots all it took was adding a little oil and right away it looked back to normal. And because these oils are so safe to work with you can do that yourself with a small rag.

The MetaCreme, interestingly, was not as easy to touch up. Those white spots were not fixed by adding another coat, so I was not as happy with the results. 

I would pick walnut oil with wax as my top choice for most stones, with some exceptions…

Which Stones Will Walnut Oil Seal?

Any honed stone can be sealed with walnut oil, though very light-colored stones can have some unwanted yellowing. This is the main drawback.

In my first round of testing, I was not happy with any of the natural drying oil finishes on white marble. It did work just fine on a creme colored marble pictured above.

On a light-colored grey limestone, it was iffy. Definitely test this out first if you are going with any light-colored stone including limestone – this might look totally fine or it might alter the color too much.

On really light stones that are white or cool tones, you may want to go with MetaCreme. Make sure you do well with that product if you are sensitive to chemicals, as you will be resealing the stone every few years or so. 

Did the Oils hold up to Tougher Stains? (Plus More Oil Comparisons)

Walnut vs. Coconut vs. Jojoba

After I narrowed in on walnut oil as being the best all-around oil out of the first batch, I started another round of testing with lighter stones.

I also wanted to see if refined coconut oil could deliver the same results without any yellow or green color change. 

I threw in Jojoba oil since that is a great finish on many natural surfaces like wood. (It turned out that worked much better on my skin and hair!)

Refined coconut oil is not a “drying oil”. Unlike walnut, hemp, and tung which polymerize forming a durable coating, coconut oil does not polymerize to form a topical coating.

Using a formula with wax makes it a little more durable and it did succeed in not yellowing any of the stones, but it did not hold up very well when actually put to the test. And it won’t hold up for as long.

Light Grey, Dark Grey and White Stones

I tested two very similar samples of limestone that are cool-toned light grey, as well as white marble, slate, and dark grey soapstone.

Pure refined coconut oil can be used on soapstone and other stone counters (as well as cutting boards), just keep in mind it does not polymerize to form a durable film. I also tried the version with wax.

Results

I put them all to a serious test with palm oil. Coconut and jojoba certainly failed, with walnut offering the most protection.

Palm oil will be one of the hardest substances for natural oils to hold up to since it stains red and it’s an oil which other oils can’t hold up to.

Drawbacks to Walnut Oil as a Stone Sealer

The main drawback, once you choose a stone that is color compatible, is probably the time it takes a natural walnut oil finish to cure.

You should wait 5-7 days before using the surface, with a full 15 days before you start scrubbing it and using it to full capacity. 

When it comes time to re-seal, simply add the oil in sections so that you can still use part of your countertops, or do it before going on vacation.

What is great about walnut oil is how safe it is to handle, even for most chemically sensitive folks. It does not have additives – you can get it on your skin and you don’t need respiratory protection. So touching it up should not be a daunting task. Just be sure to follow the instructions.

Which Countertops Can be Sealed with Natural Oil

Honed Stones

Generally, any honed (not polished) stone that is porous enough to need a sealer can be sealed with the walnut oil/wax mix.

Marble, granite, soapstone, limestone, and slate can all be sealed with this oil.

Just test it for color change if it’s a white or light cool toned stone.

I can certainly see why this is sold as “Soapstone Sealer“, since it creates a perfect black finish on soapstone.

While mineral oil is the most common sealer for soapstone, it’s not totally non-toxic and benign. Walnut oil is just as good as a finish.

Paper Composite Counters

Walnut also works well on Richlite and Paperstone countertops. I tested it on that as well and was really happy that it left it looking quite natural. There was no noticeable color chance as these countertops only come in warm colors and dark colors.

It also allowed the Paperstone to retain its matte finish.

It’s a great alternative sealer to the other not as safe options used to seal paper composite countertops.

Wooden Counters

Walnut works well on wooden/butcher block countertops as well. Hemp oil also works well on wood, as the color change that happens with hemp looks natural on wood.

Concrete Counters

Concrete countertops can also be sealed with walnut oil or tung oil. Tung works better on concrete than stone because of how porous it is. On stone it forms too thick of a topical coating, making it hard to touch up.

If Stone is Sealed Already

To tell if the stone is sealed already, do a water test – put a big drop of water on the stone and see if the stone changes color. If the color does change then it is not sealed. If it does not change it is likely already sealed.

The walnut oil sealer can seal over an already sealed area. It’s not going to soak in or be quite as effective, but it will dry and polymerize. Also, it will need to be kept very thin so as to not build up too thick of a film.

My countertop post goes over stones that are dense enough to not require a sealer. So if water does not soak in, that can also indicate that it is one of these very dense stones. If you want to skip the whole sealing stage altogether, go with one of those stones.

Can You Use Hemp or Tung Oil on Stone?

Tung Oil

For dense stones like slate, you can thin tung oil (I don’t do well with the citrus thinner though, and many won’t because it’s so strong in odor).

I tried tung oil without thinning it and wiped off the excess. It worked just fine, but it may form too thick of a layer to be able to be touched up easily in the future. 

If you put it on too thick it could also get frosty/gummy when used outside or go white when used inside. You might have to sand it down to fix it. And when you go to re-seal it you may have a problem if the first coat was too thick. 

But because tung oil forms a thick more robust finish, if you want to seal a slate shower pan or an exterior stone – tung would work better and is more durable than walnut oil. 

Tung oil can produce a more amber tone and that is another reason it won’t work on all stones. Even on a dark stone like soapstone, because it has a bluish hue, tung oil can make it look green. You will see this change immediately. 

The Milk Paint tung oil is sourced from China and is amber-toned. I noticed this brand has a lighter odor than others I have tried (which I liked). Tung oil from South America can be more greenish. 

Hemp Oil

Hemp oil as a stone sealer is not as tough of a finish but it can work well. I tried it and it did work in my experiments on stones where it is color compatible.

Walnut oil is usually the best choice for all stone countertops. The color change is very subtle and it’s easy to re-do and touch up without build-up.

Some may prefer hemp oil. If you have an allergy or aversion to walnut oil, hemp oil is the next natural oil to try.

But hemp oil has more of a hue to it than walnut oil and it can produce a greenish tone on light-colored stones. On white stone, you would see the color shift. 

The color change will show up immediately, as opposed to yellowing over time says Dwayne, the owner of Real Milk Paint. On stones where I saw a color change to yellow, I did see it right away and it did also worsen a little bit over a few days or weeks.

Natural Sealers for Concrete Countertops

Tung oil can be used on concrete countertops. You can also use a Milk Paint stain to add color to it. Here is a video about applying it to countertops.

You can use tung on concrete floors as well, some folks have not had to redo them for 8 years or more. It provides a durable coating without making it slippery and slick.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!