Conventional Cabinets & VOCs

Conventional cabinets can be a significant source of VOCs in the kitchen – with all of the low and mid-range brands using particleboard or MDF at least in their lower-end lines, which offgas formaldehyde.

There are pressed wood products with no added formaldehyde now, and some cabinet makers mentioned in this post are using these. I don’t always think the alternative glues are better.

The move towards CARB II and GreenGuard Gold has greatly improved the formaldehyde levels in the conventional options in recent years.

Regular plywood-based cabinets (as opposed to particleboard or MDF) offgas quite rapidly, while at the same time more companies are offering formaldehyde-free options.

Paints and varnishes are not likely to be zero-VOC unless that is stated. But the brands here are offering natural finishes, custom finishes, or factory cured finishes which I found to be almost no VOC.

You may opt to finish them yourself with non-toxic sealers or non-toxic paint.

The best option for most people is the mid-range brands with the right healthy upgrades.

If you need assistance choosing the best cabinets for your sensitivities, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation. 

Healthy Cabinet Brands – Listed by Material 

Healthy cabinets could be made of solid wood, plywood, pressed wood without added formaldehyde, or metal.

Sometimes glass or MgO board can be used.

Of course, some are sensitive to the terpenes of wood, and wood can also pick up and hold onto secondary odors so I have included non-wood options on the list.

The cabinets in my tiny house are solid wood, but the reason cabinets are made of engineered wood products is that solid wood can warp in the kitchen.

1. Non-Toxic Metal Cabinet Brands

There are companies that make metal kitchen cabinets, and they can look quite cool:

Bertolini (affordable, 100% metal).

Fadior makes stainless steel cabinets.

IMD has no wood and no adhesives (North America and Europe).

Pedini (high-end) Italian company that was at the forefront of green cabinetry. They offer some metal options.

When shopping for metal cabinets you want to see if there are any non-metal components and what those are.

2. Healthy Solid Wood Cabinets

Healthy Cabinet Makers make solid wood cabinets aimed at the chemically sensitive.

It’s rare to find cabinets made out of solid wood, so I would certainly go with a company that has expertise with this type of construction.

Solid wood is prone to warping in high humidity, which is why most cabinets are not solid.

This company also has a commitment to healthy finishes.

3. Low-VOC and Formaldehyde-Free Cabinets

i. KERF makes cool looking cabinets out of Purebond (formaldehyde-free) plywood which has a zero-VOC finish. The edges are finished with Osmo which I review here.

ii. Neil Nelly Cabinets makes low-VOC wooden cabinets with no-added-formaldehyde cases/drawers (Purebond Plywood). They use low VOC glues, adhesives, and finishes. You can ask them about a no-VOC finish option.

iii. Executive Cabinetry offers a choice between regular plywood and Purebond (no added formaldehyde plywood).

iv. Another very popular brand is Crystal Cabinets. They can use standard plywood or Purebond with no added formaldehyde for the boxes. They have an option for low emitting finishes, or you can finish them yourself.

You can also have them finish them for you with the varnish of your choice (though that option is fairly expensive).

Non-toxic cabinets finishes are listed here, and non-toxic cabinet paints here.

This is often the top pick for many in the high-end green market.

v. Bellmont Cabinetry offers a line called Eco-Core that is melamine with no added formaldehyde.

vi. Taylor Made Cabinets offers no added formaldehyde cabinets, with plywood boxes and solid wood drawers.

vii. Royal Cabinets makes a line called Green Leaf that has no added formaldehyde and low-VOC finishes.

Some of the same companies that make kitchen cabinets also make non-toxic bathroom vanities and closets. Here is a company making solid wood closets.

4. Fully Custom-Made Cabinets

Custom cabinets are usually made by local craftsmen. This is usually the highest end option. But for me in my tiny house, we kept it really simple with basic cabinets made by my carpenter builder.

Cabinets can be made with a combination of solid wood, plywood, Purebond (formaldehyde-free plywood), or formaldehyde-free particleboard.

Purebond plywood is made of “soy glue” which for some people is prefered over regular plywood.

Personally I would choose plywood made with phenol-formaldehyde (which offgasses quickly and fully) over formaldehyde-free alternative adhesives.

Drawers can be made of mostly metal.

My cabinets, pictured, are custom made with solid wood on the doors/face. MgO was used for the boxes (a highly unusual choice!). IKEA ready-made metal drawers were used with MgO as the base of the drawer.

The wood did warp a little in my kitchen (this was poplar wood).

Some ideas to cut down on costs (while keeping the cabinets low in toxicity):

• Use shelves instead of upper cabinets – either wood, glass, or metal.
• Salvage cabinets and countertops from demolitions as they may have off-gassed or you may find metal ones.
• DIY simple open shelving below the counter made of solid wood, concrete, tadelakt, metal, or glass.
• Metal and glass cabinets you can custom make or make yourself – here is a description and instructions from Build a Healthy House. IKEA also offers some mostly glass options.
• Incorporate affordable metal drawers or shelves inside of cabinets (like my IKEA parts).

5. Non-Toxic Big Brand Cabinets

i. KraftMaid Cabinets (Lowes and Home Depot)

KraftMaid cabinets are a great mid-range semi-custom option.

They offer all plywood cabinets boxes as an upgrade. The shelves are also plywood. Most plywood now quickly offgasses to completion. It’s a far better choice than particleboard.

The drawer sides are solid wood, with a plywood base.

The doors are solid hardwood frames with solid or veneer center panels, or laminate doors.

I like solid wood as my top choice followed by laminate doors.

You can order samples for $3 each to see the finishes. I personally found that the painted lacquer finish hit odorless very quickly, within days. I don’t think any instrument would pick up offgassing off these at that time. They said the samples are always newly produced.

The clear finished seemed even better to me right away.

KraftMaid cabinets cost you anywhere from $100 to $300 per linear square foot.

Merillat Cabinets

Merillat and Kraftmaid are owned by the same company, and Merrillat’s best line, their Masterpiece, is the exact same product as Kraftmaid.

Other Home Depot Brands

Many folks have reported doing well with Thomasville brand cabinets from Home Depot.

iii. IKEA Cabinets

IKEA is obviously a very affordable ready to assemble option.

From IKEA, the lacquered VEDDINGE cabinets and melamine faced cabinets are preferred because those finishes block some offgassing.

The KUNGSBACKA cabinet fronts and side panels are made of PET plastic wrapped around particle board, which is also a great way to block offgassing from the particleboard.

More on that below.

Formaldehyde Levels in Big Box Store Cabinets

Many people are finding that since CARB II came into effect, which drastically reduced formaldehyde in nation-wide brands, regular cabinets work fine for them.

You may want to compare some of the brands at IKEA and Home Depot. If you find GreenGuard Gold certification you know it’s extremely low formaldehyde.

With most particleboard and MDF, the main adhesive is formaldehyde. You can see the typical levels in the chart in this post.

I would avoid MDF and particle board, opting for brands that offer an upgrade to all plywood boxes and solid wood doors.

My second choice after that is a melamine or laminate finish which blocks most of the formaldehyde.

Melamine Versus Laquer – Which is Safer?

IKEA has two main finishes on the doors.

Melamine is one option. This is a plastic exterior that is fairly thick and does not have noticeable offgassing.

The other option is the painted (lacquered) finish. This is made with a base of particleboard.

Lacquer paints do have some ability to seal in offgassing, but this doesn’t block the formaldehyde as well as the melamine or laminate does.

How to Block & Seal in Formaldehyde

In cabinets with a melamine or plastic laminate finish on the outside (like many IKEA cabinets) this does block most of the formaldehyde offgassing.

If the edges are sealed in by the finish, that is even better.

If the edges are not sealed with melamine, the formaldehyde ofgassing from the edges can be sealed with AFM Safeseal or Zinsser Shellac. You should also seal up the unused shelving holes with shellac as well.

If you go with the lacquered finish you can seal the edges with Safeseal or Shellac.

Metal and Glass Cabinet Components from IKEA

The IKEA drawers have metal sides which is a great feature. The fiberboard base can be swapped out for another material.

IKEA also sells glass cabinet drawers and glass shelves for inside cabinets. The JUTIS line is metal and glass.

I used their metal drawers and metal corner cabinet shelving in my tiny house and put my own fronts on them.

You can really cut down on costs and toxin exposure but using many IKEA parts.

If you want to dig down deeper into materials – my post on Laminate, Melamine, and Thermafoil goes into more detail.

6. Plastic Kitchen Cabinets

Non-toxic outdoor kitchen cabinets can be made of polyethylene or metal. The above cabinets are from Werever Outdoor Cabinets.

Folks who have not found a suitable material in the indoor options might use the outdoor styles inside. You could, of course, use these outside as intended, as well.

One benefit here is you might find modular options in this category quickly and easily at big box stores.

One company, Reform, which makes doors and accessories to fit on the IKEA base cabinet frames, makes a solid polyethylene (HDPE) door line called MATCH. That would be an awesome option for many sensitive folks. You would need to check out the above section on IKEA to see if the base cabinets could suit you.

If you need assistance choosing the best cabinets, countertops and other kitchen items for your sensitivities, please contact me for a one-on-one consultation. 

Updated Spring 2021

This post covers all of the materials you need to complete a tiling job without the use of toxic materials that offgas VOCs.

Luckily this is not too difficult to accomplish if we stick to the right kinds of products.

When tiling, first we lay down a mortar which is almost always a thin-set (not thickset anymore). We might need to use membranes or special backer boards depending on the project. After the tiles are laid, the grout is applied between the tiles. A non-toxic grout sealer is the final product needed.

This post contains affiliate links to relevant products that I use and recommend. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

For individual help on choosing the best products and materials for you and your home, you can schedule a consultation with me here.

Non-Toxic Thin-Set Mortar

Thin-set is the bonding layer that goes down under your tiles. Concrete based thin-sets are the safest type and are also easy to source.

Thin-set mortar is also known as dry set and dry bond.

Brands

I used Custom Building Products Standard Thin-Set Mortar which is zero-VOC (and mildewcide-free). It had a light “wet concrete odor” when wet but it is safe once dry.

Unmodified Thin-Set (no Additives)

An unmodified concrete based thin-set is concrete, sand and lime and is not mixed with acrylic-latex additives.

The unmodified type is recommended for floors and may not be suitable for all applications. Schulter also makes SET, an unmodified thin-set mortar.

These non-toxic thin-sets are more prone to cracking than ones with additives, and you have to check if your application requires polymers.

On walls, thin-set usually has some acrylic (called latex) additive. Ceramic tile doesn’t need much acrylic-latex, porcelain tile needs more. Consult first with the tile manufacturer, if you don’t get a clear answer on which type you need then look to the advice from the thin-set manufacturer. You also need to consider requirements from membrane manufacturers. Source, JLC.

Modified Thin-Set

Ideally I like to see full disclosure on what the polymers are in thin-set.

Ardex X 5 declares EVA as the polymer.

Other Types

Most chemically sensitive folks would want to avoid the toxic epoxy thin-sets and most mastics.

Although there are some safe and tolerable tile glues (mastics) like AFM 3 in 1.

This can be used when applying tiles to a backsplash, however, you do need to consult with AFM on whether this will be suitable for your project (dependant on the weight of the tiles).

Non-Toxic Tile Membranes / Underlayments

Over the first layer of thin-set, I used Schluter DITRA (polyethylene with a fleece backing), an uncoupling membrane that will help prevent cracking in my tiny house (it worked well and did not have an odor to me).

Polyethelene is a very safe plastic. In regular-sized houses, you can use this as well to prevent cracking.

If you just need a waterproofing membrane, use Schluter Kerdi (a modified PEVA core with non-woven polypropylene).

Membranes for the Walls

For a tiled shower, the Kerdi shower system is recommended by architects to create a mold preventative shower.

Be sure to test all parts including Kerdi Fix sealant if you are sensitive to chemicals.

Integrated Membrane Boards

Instead of using the membranes over concrete backer boards (backer boards are discussed in this post), you could use Kerdi Board or Wedi Panels. Test for tolerability before proceeding. They will be behind the thin-set, tiles, and grout, which will render them safe for most people with sensitivities.

These integrated membrane wallboards help simplify things by replacing concrete backer boards + membrane with just one substrate that is easy to waterproof.

The panels are made of non-toxic zero VOC polystyrene with a plastic membrane already integrated.

Concrete Based Non-Toxic Grout

Concrete grouts are the safest grouts and are generally non-toxic. You don’t need to go to a green building store for this product, these grouts can be found at all regular building supply stores and online.

You do want to look for a basic concrete based grout in powder form.

Top Brand

I used Custom Building Products Polyblend grout, it’s the same brand as the thin-set, and like the thin-set, is zero VOC and contains no mildewcides or antimicrobials.

It comes in sanded and unsanded and in different colors. (Unsanded is for marble and certain tiles types). You can find this at Home Depot as well as Amazon.

It barely had an odor, though it does have polymers (listed as EVA). Almost everyone does well with this one.

Alternative Brands

Mapai Keracolor (U and S) is another brand that lists the polymer – we know it is EVA.

If those don’t work for you, Hydroment is also recommended for people with sensitivities. However, it has a small amount of latex additive (this usually refers to acrylic) and contains an antimicrobial, which appears to be silver-based.

Laticrete also makes a number of 0-VOC grouts and thin-sets. It’s a matter of finding out which additives work for you and if additives are required for your application.

Many Laticrete products use Microban, which is this case almost certainly refers to Microban’s silver antimicrobials.

Make Your Own Grout

If you need to avoid all additives, you can make your own grout with Portland Cement mixed with sand, lime, and water for a totally chemical-free option. 

Here are the ratios from Craftsman’s Construction Encyclopedia. To mix your own unmodified grout it is a ratio of Portland cement to sand, 1:1 for 1/8th joints, 1:2 for 1/2 inch joints, and 1:3 for over 1/2 inch joints. Adding up to 1/5 lime increases workability.

What are Grout Additives and are They Toxic?

Those who are sensitive to chemicals will probably want a concrete-based grout (like those above) and then see which additives if any can be tolerated.

Since additives are trade secrets and polymer is a word that can mean a variety of chemicals (there are over 10,000 polymers that can be used in cement) you will probably have to test them against your sensitivities.

Common polymers in grout include: latex-based polymers, acrylate copolymers (acrylic eg. PVA), styrene butadiene rubber copolymers (SBR), vinyl acetate-ethylene copolymers (VAE), and ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA).

They might come mixed in or you might mix them in yourself. Mixing them means you can test the additive against your sensitivities in a more concentrated form, on the other hand, you may not want to test the polymers and the grout until it has cured.

Polymers are added to improve chemical resistance, reduce porosity, improve flexibility, and freeze/thaw stability (source).

You will have to find out when and where you need additives, which will depend on your specific project. I don’t consider most of these polymers to be toxic.

Are Thin-Set and Grout Safe – Why do They Have the Prop 65 Warning?

Sanded grout and thin-sets contain silica (the same substance as glass) which is harmful to breathe in when in dust form; you will see a Prop 65 Warning on every product that contains silica dust.

Use an N95 mask (or better) when mixing it until it is fully wet. This is completely safe when it is no longer in dust form.

There may also be other minerals in there that are only a problem in dust form like aluminum oxide, which can result in a high health rating on the SDS and other warnings. Again, these are safe when it’s mixed wet and when it cures.

Some cement contains fly ash and some don’t. Plain Portland Cement does not have any other harmful additives.

Non-Toxic Thick-Set /Thick-Bed Mortar 

Thick-Bed mortar (also called thick-set or mud set) in its most basic form is simply Portland cement and sand. Custom Building Products makes a mix of 1:3 that is unmodified, it contains no chemical additives like polymers.

This is harder to source than thin-set. 

Alternative to Concrete-Based Grout

For something more waterproof check out QuartzLock; this won’t be tolerable for everyone. It is a urethane-based grout, not cement, and provides more waterproofing.

I personally would not use a premixed grout and I would keep a close eye on contractors to make sure that they use what you specified and don’t swap that out for a premixed option.

This grout is significantly higher in offgassing and it should not be necessary in almost every application.

Your waterproofing needs to be done properly behind the tiles.

Epoxy grouts are also waterproof, and may be selected when a clear grout is specified.

Non-Toxic Tile Types

I used concrete tiles from Morocco in my tiny house. Porcelain and ceramic tiles do not offgas VOCs.

For more info on choosing non-toxic tile types, my post on bathrooms goes into the most detail.

Tiles don’t generally have any offgassing. Lead is the biggest concern. My post on lead testing explains the different approaches that you could take.

Non-Toxic Grout Sealers

If you are just sealing the grout (and not the tiles) you can use AFM Grout Sealer. It’s zero-VOC and is one of AFM’s most tolerated products.

This is a potassium silicate product also known as liquid glass. It’s a breathable densifier (which is what you want).

Custom Building Products Tilelab grout sealer is another one that many people do well with – it has less than 1 g/l VOCs. This also looks to be a potassium silicate.

ECOS, a well-liked brand, has a stone sealer that is used on grout. They do not disclose any of the ingredients in this product so it’s not possible to know if it is a breathable densifier or topical coating.

Sodium, potassium, and lithium silicates (aka water glass or liquid glass) is a very safe product that also leaves the grout breathable. It is a densifier so it makes it easier to clean and less likely for dirt, grime and mold to get embedded. It’s not intended to be waterproof.

On this topic, I take expert advice from contractor Mike Holmes and architect Cheryl Ciecko. Your waterproofing layer is behind the tile (see the section on Schulter). The grout should be breathable.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

This a deep dive into the best mineral paints: chalk paint, milk paint, and clay paint, to see which ones have the least amount of toxic additives and if any of them are really pure. 

I test and compare all the brands available in North America. These are the least toxic and most natural paints that can go on interior walls.

These paints are also all breathable (have high perm ratings).

What I found here was a lot of marketing greenwashing, as well as some interesting new paints that I had not tried before. I had to do a lot of wading through the nitty-gritty ingredients here to get to these recommendations!

I only found four mineral-based paints in North America that fit my criteria. Though as I investigated this, it became more and more unclear what should be defined as a mineral-based paint. Alnost all have polymers!

I talk about some that didn’t make the cut at the end. 

Reasons for considering mineral-based paint:

1. More natural, non-toxic, mineral-based paints might be more suitable for the chemically sensitive and others avoiding toxins. It may even be safe for you to apply them yourself.
2. These paints are breathable, which is specified in many mold preventative wall assemblies (for example in passive house design).
3. They give a natural look and feel to a room.

This post is not sponsored by any of the mineral paint companies. The post includes Amazon affiliate links. I earn a small commission upon purchase at no extra cost to you.

1. RomaBio EcoDomus Mineral Paint Review

I want to start with the most well-known mineral-based paint, RomaBio. This paint is popular and is often the easiest to source mineral-based paint. You can sometimes find it on Amazon.

RomaBio is a lime-based paint. It’s also a silicate paint that has another non-acrylic polymer in it (i.e. it might not be a pure silicate paint). Silicate is a very safe binder.

The silicate paints are very safe, and in this formula, they help create a paint that has a really durable, washable surface that is still breathable.

Silicate paints are the only type of paint that can technically be called “mineral paints”, but because of the unknown polymer in here, I’m not sure that this is a true silicate/mineral paint.

What I found out from digging into the ingredients and smelling it for myself, is that this one is actually (it seems to me), the most like conventional paint in odor level.

Although it is a breathable paint (95% breathable), which is specified for many builds, it did have that classic paint smell when wet (to my nose and to my estimation).

It’s not the same type of paint as ECOS or other zero-VOC paints, but something in here is contributing to that odor that is associated with “new paint smell”. 

What are the Additives in RomaBio Paint?

Their Interior paint is called EcoDomus (this is different from their exterior lime washes).

The ingredients for the white EcoDomus paint are:

Water, calcium carbonate (limestone), titanium dioxide (a metal mineral that makes things white, including food), ethylene vinyl acetate polymer (EVA) (a polymer that is common in paint and low odor), undisclosed polymer, potassium polysilicate (liquid glass, very safe – this is the silicate part), talc, plus 13 undisclosed ingredients. 

What are the undisclosed ingredients:

I’m not sure what that second polymer is, but here is a list of typical polymers used in silicate paints: styrene-butadiene, polystyrene, neoprene, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl acetate, acrylonitrile copolymers, acrylic polymers and copolymers (source).

Other typical additives in silicate paints include surfactants, small amounts of solvents, thickeners (like cellulose), stabilizers, modifiers. This also contains a preservative.

They also list their ingredients as follows: containing inert binders (4 – 18% depending on the product. They claim potassium silicate is the primary binder, but it also has EVA and an undisclosed polymer), natural thickeners (might very likely be a cellulose) and earth oxide pigments.

Does RomaBio Contain Toxins/Toxic Additives?

The VOCs in RomaBio EcoDomus

The paint is listed as 0 VOC, with no exempt VOCs. They do disclose detailed testing of the VOCs which reveal: 

• Butanol 2.2 micrograms/m3
• 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on 5.5 micrograms/m3 (this is a preservative)
• Formaldehyde <2 micrograms/m3 (extremely low but there are aldehyde donors in here)
• Acetaldehyde <2 micrograms/m3

They state it does not contain: propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (PEG), formaldehyde (though it has a small amount of formaldehyde/aldehyde donors, likely the mildewcide, based on the VOCs) or alkylphenol ethoxylates.

They claim no toxic biocides/mildewcides/no toxic preservatives (but it does contain 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin aka Methylisothiazolinone which is a biocide and is not benign), no acrylic resins (though it does contain EVA and an unknown polymer), and no toxic binders.

What I Like About RomaBio (Pros):

• The Matte does not require a primer on new drywall.
• Matte is 87% natural.
• There is a fair amount of disclosure on what’s in it and a lot of disclosure on the final VOCs.
• One of the only breathable (high perm rating listed), and washable paints. Most regular zero VOC paints like ECOS and Ben Moore do not have a high perm rating.
• The only washable flat (matte) sheen mineral paint I found that does not require a sealer to be washable. 
• Durable, washable and not easily stained by oil, food (ketchup mustard etc).
• High quality – expect the quality and ease of application of regular paint. You do not have to do a sample board due to unusual application techniques/tools.
• You can use it in the bathroom and kitchen. It is mold resistant and can take splatter. 

What I Don’t Like About RomaBio (Cons):

• It doesn’t have a lower odor in my opinion than regular 0 VOC paints like ECOs. It’s not clear that odor and VOC-wise, it’s better than ECOs or other zero VOC paints (it might even be worse for some folks).
• It might be harder to tolerate than other mineral paints listed here for many folks with chemical sensitivities. Possibly due to variations in which polymer is tolerable for different folks).
• Many undisclosed ingredients.

Application Tips for RomaBio EcoDomus

EcoDomus can be applied with a brush, roller, or spray like any traditional paint. This was the most like conventional no VOC paint and it was the easiest one to choose the right roller for. Painters should have no problem applying it.

When applying it to the wall it is easiest to use a roller (not a brush). For silicate paints you can use polyester rollers.

I found this was easy to apply with a brush and roller, even for a beginner painter. It had the ease of application of a regular no VOC paint. I used a medium pile roller and it worked just fine. A short nap roller on drywall would be smoother. Wooster is a good one.

You can pair that with the same paintbrushes that you would use on conventional paint for cutting in. Purdy Nylox is super smooth. Purdy Pro is slightly less smooth.

You don’t need a sealer on this one. Matte is two coats, satin and eggshell are primer plus two coats.

How Does RomaBio EcoDomus Hold Up?

You need to wait 14 days for a full cure to start scrubbing it.

I put it to the test with mustard (for the staining) and mayo (for the oil). The mayo was no problem to wipe off, both off the matte and satin.

The mustard stained both of them. It did not come off with a soft sponge with soap and water. It did come off with the Magic Eraser, though you can tell on the grey color that the Eraser pulled up a little paint. It’s not obvious on the drywall.

They say you can clean it with mild dish soap or other mild cleaner with a soft rag or soft sponge.

2. Bioshield Clay Paint Review

In terms of the most non-toxic of the mineral-based paints I found in North America, BioShield Clay Paint is near the top of the list.

In Australia this is called Volvex paint.

Though it seems to be extremely similar to Farrow & Ball paint which is much easier to purchase, easier to apply, and more durable!

This has a high percentage of natural ingredients, the least amount of concerning additives and is very low odor.

I found the odor of it even straight out of the bottle to be mild and nonoffensive. Depending on your level of sensitivity, this may smell slightly like polymers or it might smell totally benign to you.

It can go over new drywall that has a skim coat with no primer. It can also go over previously painted walls (if they are not glossy) without a primer.

Like every other paint that can go on new drywall, it does have a binder/polymer in it. The polymer is PVA. It does polymerize so it’s not technically classified as “a mineral paint”.

It can go over wood and some wallpapers without a primer.

Whether you can put it over new drywall that is taped and mudded at the seams depends on the color of the paint and your skill level – you might see this transition between the two different materials if you don’t use a primer.

Clay paint is not suited for frequent cleaning. Grease and other contaminants can leave permanent marks. 

You can add their Wall Glaze or AFM Penetrating Waterstop to add more water resistance and cleanability – I tested both of these, more below. They recommend the wall glaze for areas like the kitchen and hallway.

For bathrooms, clay paint is not ideal, as it should not receive regular water exposure. I would not use this in a bathroom personally as the area around the sink will generally get splashed.

I like their basic Clay Paint. They also have a slightly more modified one that is called their Solvent-Free Wall Paint (NB all water-based paint is solvent-free as a general rule). 

I couldn’t pick up much of a difference between them (odor-wise), but the solvent-free paint was smoother in its final finish, and it is more washable.

Ingredients and Additives in BioShield Clay Paint

Ingredients in Bioheild Clay Paint:

Water, clay, porcelain clay, chalk, alcohol ester (as a binder, this is the PVA), cellulose, pigments, preservatives (you can email them for the details on the preservative, they are common ones but not benign).

Ingredients in BioShield Solvent-Free Wall Paint:

Water, chalk, asbestos-free talcum, titanium dioxide, polyphosphate (a water softener), cellulose, alcohol ester, sodium hydroxide, and preservatives.

What I like About BioShield (Pros):

• A fairly pure option.
• One of the lowest odor paints I have ever used (alongside Farrow & Ball).
• No-VOC; usually tolerable for the chemically sensitive.
• Chemically sensitive folks may even be able to apply it themselves.
• No time (or less time, compared to some others) needed for offgassing before reentering the room.
• 100% transparency in ingredients.
• No primer needed in some applications.

What I don’t like about BioShield (Cons):

• Not washable, it stains easily, means you either need to apply a labor-intensive Wall Glaze, or AFM Penetrating Waterstop in high impact areas. (The Solvent-Free Wall Paint is more washable.)
• You may need another paint option for the bathrooms.
• You may need a primer over new drywall that doesn’t have a skim coat (and you will have to choose a primer that you tolerate).
• Not easy to apply and the company was not willing to help me choose a brush and roller.
• They only ship to the 48 states (not Canada).
• No apparent reason to buy this over Farrow and Ball. A very close alternative in my estimation, that you can buy in Canada, the US, and Europe. That seemed to be extremely similar in makeup and odor. It’s also a PVA based paint high in minerals.

Application Tips for BioShield Clay Paint

I applied BioShield Clay Paint and Solvent-Free Wall Paint without a primer over paper-based drywall (2 x 2 pieces with no drywall mud).

I found it relatively easy to apply and I really liked the finish. I thought it would be more difficult to apply than it was.

The application is not the same as regular paint or RomaBio which went on more conventionally and was more forgiving of my medium nap roller and beginner’s technique.

I did have trouble finding the right brush and roller that did not leave such a textured finish. A more skilled painter should not have as much trouble with this. But the company was not helpful with me in finding the right brush and roller.

My medium nap roller left it quite textured. If you are new to painting or to clay paints, you might want to test out your brush and roller to see what the texture will look like. I was not happy with my texture and the company would not recommend a specific brush or roller.

It is a plus that this can be applied with a roller. After some digging, a low nap roller is recommended for a conventional-looking finish on drywall, like Wooster 3/8th nap rollers.

A beginner should do a test sample on a test piece of drywall.

Two coats are required, with a longer dry time in between than many other paints. Cures in about 10 days. Splatter tests below.

I also tried their Wall Glaze on top of the paint as a protective coating. The ingredients of the wall glaze are cellulose, alcohol ester, silica, carnauba wax, clay, water, and preservative.

How did it Hold up?

Without the glaze, the Clay Paint and Solvent Free Wall paint held up so-so to mustard. I had to use the Magic Eraser, and like with RomaBio, that did remove a tiny bit of paint.

They did not do as well with the mayo, which left an oil stain.

I put it to the test after applying the Wall Glaze and AFM Penetrating Waterstop.

Solvent-Free Paint worked the best with AFM PWS. No stain from either mustard or mayo and it retains the same color and sheen.

Wall Glaze also worked well on Solvent-Free Wall Paint but there is an ever so slight mustard stain.

Their basic Clay Paint held up best with their Wall Glaze. With also an ever so slight stain that cannot really be seen from a few feet away. AFM PWS did not help the Clay Paint hold up well.

3. Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (on the Wall) Review

Annie Sloan is well known for their Chalk Paint®. It’s best known as a furniture paint, but it can also be used on walls.

Chalk Paint for Walls

They do have a separate paint that is labeled as wall paint. Right now it is not available in North America (only Europe), I tried their regular Chalk Paint on paperbacked gypsum wallboard.

Unique Benefits of Chalk Paint

The most interesting aspect of this paint is its self-priming ability over a wide range of surfaces. You don’t need to prime or sand most surfaces.

The finish is ultra-matte, a chalk-like look. It can be used just as a primer if you don’t want the final chalk look.

There are not many non-toxic paints that can be used on cabinets, this is one of them. (I mention the others in the main post on paints). What’s easy about this one is it goes over many cabinet types and finishes without sanding or priming. 

It also works as one of the only non-toxic chalkboard paints (to write on).

But What’s in it?

I don’t find it as potent as regular paint but it does resemble an artist’s paint (possibly a slight acrylic odor, but nothing close to as strong as a regular acrylic paint).

They claim extremely low VOCs.

This ingredient list is based off the companies SDS sheets, industry knowledge and patents on similar products.

The Ingredients in Annie Sloan Chalk Paint:

• Calcium carbonate 25-50% (known)
• Titanium Dioxide white pigment 0-10% (known)
• Diiron trioxide 0-3.5% (known)
• Alcohols (known)
• Ammonia (known)
• Pigments, in colors other than white (known)
• Acrylic binder (likely)
• Talc (likely)
• PVA binder (possible)
• Propylene Glycol (possible)

Some extremely chemically sensitive folks have done well with this paint, it’s unlikely to react to it. I think it’s certainly worth testing out for your project. 

Comparison to Rust-Oleum Chalked

Chalked has an affiliate program and I believe this is why most blogs say they prefer this over Annie Sloan. Annie Sloan is in my opinion lower odor.

Chalked paint in my estimation has a much more obvious acrylic odor and I would guess the base is far more acrylic. The odor is far more similar to a regular 0-VOC acrylic-latex paint.

They both have similar coverage and work well at priming over difficult surfaces. Chalked is certainly less expensive and easier to locate via Amazon or the hardware store.

Where to Use it

Like the clay paint, it has a matte finish that is not scrubbable.

The company does not recommend using Chalk Paint on walls in kitchens, bathrooms, and anywhere else that requires a tougher, scrubbable finish.

Like with clay paint, you can use wax over it to provide more protection and durability to use it in high impact areas. But waxing a whole wall is a big job. 

I tried the Annie Sloan Wax. It smelled like petroleum products to me and I did not tolerate it. It was the only finish in this post I did not tolerate (just the wax part).

That’s not a deal-breaker for me, you can use this without a wax or use a different brand of wax finish.

If you are in Europe they do recommend the wall paint for kitchens, bathrooms, and walls that require a tougher, scrubbable finish. (The wall paint does not require the wax and is not considered breathable).

What I like About Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (Pros):

• Very Low VOC.
• Low odor, will be suitable for many chemically sensitive folks (but not all). To my nose, it’s much lower odor than Romabio.
• Very versatile – it can be used on walls, floors, wood, cabinets, concrete, metal, matte plastic, earthenware, brick, stone, over waxed shellac, and more.
• Rarely is sanding or priming the surface first necessary.
• Breathable.
• Unique matte, chalk-like look.
• One coat and no primer needed makes this the fastest to apply.
• You can paint over it with any regular acrylic paint.
• The artist-quality to this paint and its pigment would make me choose this one for a wall mural or decorative design (though it is very fast drying so it’s not easy to blend on the surface).

What I don’t like about Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (Cons):

• Not enough hints to any of the ingredients other than it’s high in calcium carbonate (25-50%), and high in titanium dioxide. I expect some acrylic in it as the binders. I would expect talc as well. The SDS lists two alcohols and ammonia.
• Some extremely sensitive folks may not tolerate it, or may need to leave the room until it’s cured.
• The dark red that I used did need a second coat to be totally even.
• I didn’t tolerate the wax, and many people I know would not tolerate it.

Tips for Applying Annie Sloan Chalk Paint to Walls

For most purposes, one coat of paint is enough (it wasn’t for me and the dark red, though the coverage was very impressive compared to every other paint I have ever used).

You don’t need to prime walls.

You can apply it with a brush, make sure you use a natural or natural/ synthetic mix brush, You may want to try Purdy White Bristle (natural bristle) or the softer Purdy Ox Hair Brush.

Annie Sloan prefers brush application with random brush strokes to a roller application. But you can use a roller to apply it to the drywall.

It seems that most people use a roller, as it is easier for most people. You will want a high-density foam roller.

I used a natural bristle chalk paint paintbrush for a 2 x 2 drywall sample and I was happy with the look of the brush marks. For a bigger area, you will want a larger brush than the chalk paint brushes used on furniture.

I recommend painting a sample on a piece of 2 x 2 drywall to test out your brush type, technique and texture. As well as testing to see if you only need one coat.

It’s 30 days for a full cure. For bedrooms and low impact wall rooms, you don’t need to wax it.

If you are waxing it, this large wax brush can be used to apply it to the walls. Remove excess with a cloth. Their wax was not tolerable for me, and I would not recommend it for most chemically sensitive folks.

How Did it Hold Up?

With the Annie Sloan wax it held up extremely well to mustard and mayo.

The unsealed Chalk Paint held up OK to mustard – there is a limit to how much you could wipe it and get it wet but I would say it did hold up to my test. It did not hold up to mayo.

I also tried the BioSheild Glaze and that helped it hold up perfectly to mustard and mayo as well.

AFM Penetrating Waterstop did not help it hold up to mustard or mayo even though I had great results using this over clay plaster.

4. Milk Paint Review

Milk Paint is a truly natural paint. The only one on the list that is 100% natural. It is a true zero-VOC and toxin-free paint that is biodegradable.

It’s almost always safe for those with extreme chemical sensitivities, even when wet.

Where Can You Use Milk Paint?

If your walls are raw plaster or gypsum drywall, Milk Paint will stick to these surfaces, no special prep is needed.

Don’t use over a joint compound that has latex in it though, it doesn’t apply as well to that.

It works well over raw wood, on glass, and masonry. It bonds with masonry walls so well that it would be tough to remove. The original formula should be used on raw wood.

Previously painted surfaces might need to be washed with TSP to strip the paint and also might need a bond coat (which is a concentrated acrylic). Especially if it’s the original formula.

The SafePaint wall formula can go over regular primers and some regular paints.

You can apply it to other difficult to paint surfaces, like metal, by using the bond coat.

It could be used on kitchen cabinets if you are willing to make some sacrifices, but you need a durable topcoat over it. Wax and hemp oil can not endure a lot of water or harsh cleaning products. Tung oil is very durable for a natural finish. I like two coats and possibly a shellac on top.

It does not go over Chalked Paint (Rustoleum Brand), I tried and failed.

What’s in Milk Paint?

True milk paint should always come in a powder form.

Go for a good quality brand like Real Milk Company or Old Fashioned Milk paint (Amazon). Those are the basic original formulas.

Ingredients: milk protein (casein), limestone, clay, chalk, and natural pigments.

If you want to put it on the walls however, definitely go with the SafePaint formula. That is the only one that has any chance of going on evenly in my experiments with the paints.

That is what I used in the above mustard color paint picture.

This is what happened when I tried the regular formula on walls! Fail.

Applying Milk Paint

The Original Formula (Best Used on Wood)

Milk Paint comes in a number of colors that are really pretty but you can also mix colors, dilute them with white, or mix them from scratch with Real Milk Paint’s base + pigments.

SafePaint Formula (Best used on Drywall)

SafePaint comes in 33 colors. They are also dry mixes so you can mix colors together to get custom color variations.

Application

You mix the powder 1:1 with water.

For smaller projects use the original formula with the specialty brushes (they are rounded).

For a wall, it’s easier to use a roller with either formula in my opinion but especially if you are using SafePaint and want a uniform finsh. You should use a 1/4 inch foam roller from Amazon.

Depending on where you are applying Milk Paint and how durable you need it to be, you can choose from a number of topcoats including:

Natural oils: hemp oil, walnut oil (with wax), and, the most durable of the oils, tung oil. The oils tint the color – they darken it making it look richer, less pastel, not matte and chalk-like and add a slight yellow which you would only see on some colors. Make sure the oil is compatible with the paint color.

Tung oil has the strongest odor of the three, hemp and walnut are both quite mild.

Water-based synthetic coatings: water-based acrylics like Milk Paint Finishing Cream, or AFM Acriglaze.

I did not have good luck with polyurethane or other acrylic coatings that are intended for wood floor finishing in my small trials.

Natural waxes: You can find a good selection at The Real Milk Company and MilkPaint.com.

What I like about Milk Paint (Pros)

• The purest and safest paint out there. 100% natural and safe.
• Actually zero-VOC.
• Safe even when wet for the chemically sensitive. Almost everyone could apply this themselves.
• You don’t need a primer on most porous surfaces. (The original formula does best on porous surfaces, with SafePaint it can actually be better over a primer).
• You can choose from a variety of topcoats.
• You could probably get away with SafePaint on the walls without a topcoat as long as it’s not in a kitchen or bathroom. It held up just fine to a wet hand placed on the wall.
• Easy to source the original formula from Amazon or from Real Milk Paint, and SafePaint for the walls from MilkPaint.com.

What I don’t like about Milk Paint (Cons)

• If you are applying this to already painted walls you can check to see if SafePaint adheres, if not I personally don’t see the benefit in using milk paint if you have to add chemical binders like the ones used in regular zero-VOC paints.
• In many situations, you do need a top coat which is an extra step.
• If you need this to be super durable you need to go with a tung oil or durable water-based topcoat. Those products have some odor and take time to cure and offgas.

Summary – Which Mineral Paint to Choose:

• Use RomaBio if you want an easy solution that applies like typical paint and is matte, breathable, washable, and, you can tolerate the offgassing. A great choice for masonry.
• Use BioShield or Farrow and Ball if you are very sensitive but still want something conventional (Farrow and Ball) or close to it (BioShield). Both are breathable, Farrow and Ball is more durable.
• Try Milk Paint if you want a truly 100% natural and safe product, and are painting over raw wood, gypsum, or plaster.
• Try Chalk/ed Paint if painting over something difficult to prime like metal or shellac, if you want to save time with just one coat, or you like the look of it better.

Paints that Didn’t Make the List:

1. Earthborn Paints – are available only in the UK/Europe
2. Green Planet Paints – these paints are a little different. This is a soy-based paint but it is essentially an acrylic paint, just like conventional paints. The acrylic is naturally derived.
3. Auro – In Europe, they sell the more pure mineral paint but they do not sell this in North America at this time. 
4. Fusion Paint – This is a furniture paint. It is an acrylic mineral paint. I don’t know what percent is acrylic, but I’m not sure what classifies it as a “mineral paint”. They do claim zero-VOC. The percent of acrylic would change makes this an acrylic latex paint not a mineral paint in my opinion.
5. ECOS – ECOS paint, the favorite of the zero-VOC paints currently, also contains chalk, clay, and titanium dioxide like F&B, but it is still classified as an acrylic paint because that is the main binde. I talk about zero VOC conventional paints in the post on paints and sealers.

Note: All paints have minerals, a binder, a solvent and usually a preservative. In all of these water-based paints, the “solvent” is water. Any paint with a polymer binder that polymerizes is not technically “a mineral paint”. Paints that were largely mineral-based with a small amount of binder, or a less toxin binder were included in this post. Again, all wall paints have a binder!

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Here are the most common certifications for VOC levels and what they really tell us about the offgassing and toxicity of the products.

GreenGuard and GreenGuard Gold Certifications

GreenGuard has two levels of certification that measure VOC levels in products.

GreenGuard allows – 500 μg/m3 total VOCs.

GreenGuard Gold allows – 220 μg/m3 total VOCs.

(GreenGuard Children and Schools which also measured for phthalates as well as VOCs, no longer exists). 

For reference, the average house has a total VOC level of about 200 μg/m3, and the outdoor or “background rate” is about 1/10th of that (20 μg/m3).

GreenGuard Gold certification is the most useful of all the healthy product certifications out there.

What Does GreenGuard Gold Certified Indicate for Formaldehyde Levels?

If you look through the individual levels of VOCs and their limits you can dig in even deeper.

The formaldehyde level allowed in GreenGuard Gold certified products is minuscule, just 9 μg/m3 or 7.3 ppb (parts per billion).

I have a post that contains a reference level table for formaldehyde. Outdoor urban air contains 1.5- 47 ppb. GreenGuard Gold formaldehyde levels are lower than the outdoor air in many places.

If you are looking at something like laminate or engineered flooring or cabinets and they meet Gold levels, that is a great indicator for extremely low formaldehyde.

Formaldehyde levels allowed with standard GreenGuard are significantly higher at 50 ppb (parts per billion) or 61.3 μg/m3 (Compared to GreenGuard Gold 0.0073 ppm).

What Does GreenGuard Mean for Assessing Safety?

GreenGuard levels keep overall VOCs below limits that would adversely affect health based on the current state of knowledge.

However, for extremely sensitive people who are already compromised by toxin exposure, the level of VOCs in an average house is unacceptable, so even GreenGuard Gold levels may not be tolerable.

My posts provide guides on the most important areas to focus on in a healthy house: Flooring, Cabinets, Insulation, Glues & Caulks, Paint, and Sealers.

Products, of course, are cumulative in a space. So it is important, especially when building new, to keep each material as low in offgassing as possible.

The GreenGuard tests attempt to show “real life” levels of VOCs, that might be expected in a regular-sized room after 7 days. (Source)

I recommend GreenGuard Gold as the best certification for people who are healthy, but I would always aim for outdoor levels of VOCs for those who are health compromised.

Downsides of GreenGuard Certification for Products

One tricky aspect of GreenGuard is that because it states that the levels are below the given threshold, you don’t know if the product is 220 or 0 μg/m3.

You still have to contact the companies to find out what the VOC level is – the problem is once they have this certification they don’t disclose the exact levels.

Many products like quartz countertops which claimed 0 VOC before they were certified (and are probably very close to zero), now have GreenGuard Gold certification, and therefore we can’t know their exact levels.

Although this is the best certification right now, it’s made things a little more difficult for very sensitive folks. We need to advocate for companies to release the actual results of the testing and not hide behind certifications.

The certification does not limit semi VOCs, like phthalates, biocides and flame retardants. Nor heavy metals.

Note: GreenGuard measures the emissions and not the content in the material so these numbers cannot be converted to g/l (grams per liter).

For help making sense of the greenwashing and choosing the best products for your home, you can contact me here to book a one-on-one consult.

Floorscore Certification

Floorscore – Floorscore has two tiers that you will see on the certificates: ≤0.5 mg/m3 (500 μg/m3), or 0.5 – 5 mg/m3 Total VOCs.

Floorscore certificates will indicate which range the product falls under.

There is no upper limit for total VOCs, they go by upper limits on each of the 35 Volatile Organic Compounds specified by the California Standard Method for VOC Emissions Testing and Evaluation (Standard Method V1.2), otherwise known as CA Section 01350.

The allowable limits of each VOC can be seen in the table on page 37 here.

What Floorscore Doesn’t Include

Chemical substances (on the CREL or other lists) that are not VOCs (e.g., metals, acids, semi-VOC plasticizers (eg phthalates), semi-VOC pesticides/biocides) are not required to be analyzed under this Standard Method.

Only 35 VOCs are tested for.

In other words, Floorscore only complies with the legal allowable VOC limits in California.

How Does Floorscore Compare to GreenGuard

When a Floorscore certificate indicates total VOC (TVOC) of 0.5 mg/m3, this is the same level as standard GreenGuard (not Gold).

Therefore, if a product has GreenGuard Gold instead of Floorscore 0.5 mg/m3, the certification could indicate it offgasses a significantly lower level of VOCs.

If a company uses Floorscore they will use this across the board. It doesn’t help to differentiate which products are lower in offgassing.

You can see this dilemma in action when Mohawk bought Pergo floors and the laminates went from GreenGuard Gold to Floorscore certified (when I very much doubt the product itself changed).

Mohawk makes many other flooring lines that I doubt would meet GreenGuard Gold; I suspect that’s why they use Floorscore across the board.

All major flooring brands sold in the US and Canada likely meets the legal VOC limits in California and therefore meet Floorscore.

A flooring should certainly be able to achieve the lowest tier of less than 0.5 mg/m3, in my opinion. And most floors do.

Green Label Plus

Green Label Plus – Certifies “very low” emissions on carpets, according to what they think is very low.

They test for 35 compounds listed under California Department of Public Health’s Section 1350.

Each product category also includes additional compounds for certification, six for carpet, two for carpet pad, and seven for adhesives.

They meet or exceed California’s indoor quality standards for low-emitting products used in commercial settings such as schools and office buildings. 

Is Green Label Plus a Useful Certification?

Here is the list of their levels of VOCs. I would find these upper limit levels to be too high for people with chemical sensitivities.

And, you would be hardpressed to find a carpet in North America that can’t meet these limits.

This certification is made by the industry and is not helpful to me personally.

Here is my list of carpets that can do better than this.

Green Seal

Green Seal – Follows CARB (legal limits in California) levels of VOCs. More on CARB below.

For example, on paint, this is between 100-300 g/l (grams per liter) depending on the type of paint.

This is not a low enough level for people with chemical sensitivities.

OSHA

OSHA is a Government Guideline – CA OSHA has the strictest government guidelines for VOCs in buildings. Here are their limits on VOCs.

While CARB and OSHA are definitely steps in the right direction, they promote levels of VOCs that will not cause adverse effects in healthy people.

These levels may not be acceptable for the extremely sensitive.

CARB

CARB – The California Air Resource Board establishes legally allowable levels of VOCs for California (which usually get adopted in any nationally distributed product).

They establish a maximum VOC-content for consumer products sold in California. These are not necessarily “low VOC”.

For example, low-VOC paint means less than 50g/l, while CARB legal allowable levels for paint are 100-300 g/l. (Note: zero-VOC means less than 5g/l).

CARB II formaldehyde levels are as follows:

Products measured include those containing hardwood plywood, medium-density fiberboard (MDF), and particleboard (like furniture and cabinets) – these are pressed wood products sold for indoors. It does not include exterior sheathing products like exterior plywood and OSB.

CARB II Formaldehyde Limits are:

• Hardwood Plywood – 0.05 ppm (parts per million)
• Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF) 0.11 ppm
• Thin MDF 0.13 ppm
• Particleboard 0.09 ppm

My post on pressed wood goes more into levels of formaldehyde and has a table that provides reference levels.

When a product says they meet CARB II all they are saying is they are complying with the law in California.

CARB limits have been extremely useful in mostly eliminating the use of the more toxic urea-formaldehyde in household wood products. A major shift to phenol-formaldehyde which offgasses faster and at lower levels was a huge accomplishment.

CertiPUR

CertiPUR – This certification was created by the polyurethane industry to certify polyurethane foam.

All polyurethane foam should be able meet this level of 0.5 ppm (or 500 μg/m3 total VOCs).

This level may be too high for most chemically sensitive people.

They would not give out info on how long polyurethane foam takes to completely offgas. Though I have to say, I don’t find basic polyurethanes to offgas very much, or for very long.

Most people are OK with a regular foam camping mat (my top picks reviewed here), mattress or couch after some offgassing time.

Memory foam is higher in VOCs than basic polyurethane foam. My post on Mattresses goes into more detail.

While this certification provides a maximum level of VOCs (500 μg/m3), some polyurethane foam products can be as low as 72 μg/m3, which would be an acceptable level for many people.

I actually prefer polyurethane over natural latex which I explain in my posts on beds.

What Else is Regulated by CertiPUR?

Flame Retardants

This originally certified that foam is made without PBDE flame retardants (even when those were already banned).

Later they added that they are also made without TDCPP or TCEP (Tris) when those starting being removed from most foam.

They really should lead the way to eliminate all toxic flame retardants, which I discuss in my post on Flame Retardants).

Formaldehyde

They say they are “made without formaldehyde” but the allowable limit for formaldehyde in the final foam product is actually 100 μg/m3 (compared to the GreenGaurd Gold limit of 9 μg/m3).

Yet polyurethane is not made with formaldehyde. It’s possible they are allowing for formaldehyde donors, and that in some cases, such as when biocides are added, the final product could still contain formaldehyde up to 100 μg/m3!

Other VOCs

Other VOCs that are measured in the testing (and therefore are likely to be in at least some foam used in mattresses and furniture) include benzene, toluene, styrene, and aromatic hydrocarbons.

Phthalates

They say made without prohibited phthalates (not free of all phthalates), and mercury, lead and heavy metals (metals were not a component in making foam).

GOTS Certified

GOTS Certified Organic is a great certification to identify fabrics that are not only organic but safe from chemical processing.

Whenever possible I go for GOTS certified products. This certification was definitely a step in the right direction.

GOTS certified means (quoted from their website):

“A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibers whereas a product with the label grade ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibers.

At all processing stages, organic fiber products must be separated from conventional fiber products and must be clearly identified.

All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries, and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meet basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability.

Ban on toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes.

The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals.

Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching).

Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited.

Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited.

Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted, all polyester must be post-consumer recycled from 2014 onwards).

Packaging material must not contain PVC. From 1 January 2014 onwards, any paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be post-consumer recycled or certified in accordance with FSC or PEFC.”

GOLS Certified

GOLS certification means a product must contain more than 95% certified organic raw natural latex.

The GOLS standard features permissible limits for harmful substances, emission test requirements and polymer and filler percentages.

It prohibits polyurethane foam and some flame retardants, colorants and allergenic dyes. It requires low emission of VOCs including formaldehyde.

I’m not a big fan of natural latex in general, which I explain in this post.

Why no Certification is Useful for Vinyl Flooring

Vinyl plank flooring offgases some aldehydes and a few other VOCs, all in very low amounts.

But the main concern in vinyl flooring is the plasticizers. None of the above certifications are measuring or limiting plasticizers by volume, by type/toxicity, or by how stable they are in their chemical bond in the material.

Recycled vinyl can also contain toxic metals and toxic flame retardants. Virgin vinyl limits this problem. My post on flooring goes into more detail.

What Should the Chemically Sensitive Look For?

Zero-VOC

I like to see products close to 0-VOC for most applications – there are exceptions because there are exempt VOCs (though not that many), and some VOCs flash off so fast that we don’t need to worry about them.

No Flame Retardants

I would like to see a ban on ALL toxic flame retardants – I discuss flame retardants and which products you still find them in in this post. Flame retardants are not classified as VOCs.

No Toxic Metals

I would like to see toxic metals declared and reduced to the most minimal trace level (that is inevitable in natural products and minerals). Many products are actually moving towards toxic metals used as “safer” flame retardants like aluminum-based chemicals or antimicrobials (silver or copper), which is a problem.

Regulations on Chemicals That are Not VOCs

Phthalates should be eliminated from household products. Replacement plasticizers need to be disclosed, and we need to know more about their toxicity and leaching from the products.

Most biocides should be disclosed and avoided.

Products I Recommend

I always choose zero-VOC materials when available. You can find zero-VOC options for wallboards, insulation, siding, sheathing, flooring, paints, sealers, caulking, grout, thin set, tiles, beds, furniture, flashing, windows, roofing, and underlayments.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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