Updated in winter 2023
There are so many excellent choices for non-toxic, healthy, green insulation, there should be one to fit everyone’s needs.
Look out for Greenwashing
There are many new options that claim to be “green” “soy-based” or are formaldehyde-free – this does not mean that they are VOC-free or safe. Look very closely at what’s in it. Also, flame retardants and mildewcides are not counted as VOCs.
Green Certified?
On top of that, certifications are not that useful: almost every insulation now qualifies as GreenGuard Gold, which for sensitive folks is not enough information.
The post includes the best of green non-toxic insulation and includes a cost comparison as of 2021.
What is the Safest Insulation?
Well, that depends. Technically, the options with no offgassing and no additives are the purest. But the natural odors in the organic options might not agree with everyone. Neither will the cost or availability.
Mineral wool is my top pick for most people, in most cases, because it’s simple in its composition and comes to a complete cure, leaving a zero-VOC product.
The types are outlined below organized by where they are used in the home, and in the order in which I would consider them.
I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission through affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Options Used in Wood Framed Houses
1. Fiberglass Insulation
Fiberglass is the most common insulation used in standard stick-framed houses in Canada and the US. For this reason, I am starting here. It’s not actually my top pick in the batts category.
You can use it between wooden studs of a house, between floor joists, and in the attic. It is used in many trailers, but I don’t recommend that.
This option has improved dramatically in recent years, and the following brands are now extremely low in VOCs.
Formaldehyde-Free Fiberglass Brands:
1. Knauf EcoBatt is recommended by some extremely sensitive folks who could not tolerate polystyrene, cotton, or wool. They are formaldehyde-free and they use a starch based binder listed on their declare label. Other ingredients include ammonium sulfate (fire retardant), mineral oil (dedusting) and silane.
2. Owens Corning Pink Next Gen (formally Ecotouch) fiberglass insulation has GreenGuard Gold certification. The binder is formaldehyde-free and appears to be starch based. All ingredients except the surfactant and pink dye are listed: vegetable oils, sodium lignosulfonate, silane.
3. Certainteed Fiberglass insulation is also made with a undisclosed plant-based binder. It’s listed as “sugars” in the EPD along with citric acid, mineral oil, silane and an undisclosed additive. This is another top pick for highly sensitive folks – it could be preferred over Knauf for some.
4. Johns Manville Fiberglass insulation is GreenGuard Gold and uses a formaldehyde-free acrylic binder. A patent by the company that is likely related to this product can be found here.
Are there Flame Retardants in Fiberglass?
Knauf lists ammonium sulfate which is used as a flame retardant, Owens Corning lists no flame retardant, Certainteed doesn’t list a flame retardant but they do have an undisclosed additive.
Blown-In Fiberglass
Blown-in fiberglass that I have looked at recently contains borates, soda ash, lime, siloxanes/silicates/silane, mineral oil, and an unknown anti-static additive.
Owens Corning unbonded loose-fill and Knauf Jetstream Ultra look similar. A client reported a “strong smell” from JM Climate Pro Fiberglass blown-in, but I don’t see the ingredients for that one, so I cannot compare it to the other two.
Fiberglass Insulation Around Pipes
The fiberglass insulation for around pipes that I have seen is also formaldehdye-free.
- R-Value
- 3.5 inches is R-11-R-15.
- Cost USD (2020)
- Knaff Ecobatt is 0.49/sq ft and you can buy it at Home Depot or through your contractor.
2. Mineral Wool Insulation
Mineral wool is my top choice for batt insulation. It is in widespread use by builders who build green or high-quality homes and it is the most obvious alternative to fiberglass. It is also easy to source.
- The batts can be used between wood studs anywhere in the house.
- It’s very good at staying in place with compression fitting, so it fits well between framing.
- It fits and holds up well in ceiling joists.
- It can be used in an attic if detailed really well and if you don’t do well with any of the blown-in options.
- It can be used on basements walls.
Non-Toxic Mineral Wool Brands
1. Rockwool (formerly Roxul) is the most common and accessible mineral wool insulation.
They have a newer version, called AFB evo, that does not contain formaldehyde. The binder appears to be starch based. It also contains mineral oil. It’s much harder to source than their standard batts.
The standard Rockwool ComfortBatt does contain phenol-formaldehyde which will cure completely and quite quickly if it’s not already cured by the time it gets to you.
Rockwool ComfortBatt is the type for perimeter exterior walls, Safe N Sound, their soundproofing version is for interior walls, and ComfortBoard is exterior insulation (outside of the sheathing).
All three contain the same binders/additives: <3% phenol-formaldehyde, <1% starch, and <0.2% mineral oil source.
You could try both options (the regular and AFB evo), but there are few situations in which the regular Rockwool does not work for someone after airing it out for a short time.
2. Thermafiber by Owens Corning is a brand that has a regular phenol-formaldehyde line and a formaldehyde-free line (you will see the letters FF), the latter usually has to be special ordered through a store. They also have a blown-in option as well.
3. American Rockwool is a brand that is harder to source (in 2020 they stalled production). The company claims no chemical additives or binders, and that would be a bonus for the extremely sensitive. They also have a blown-in option.
Other Info
An easy way to cut through mineral wool is with an electric carving knife.
This insulation has good soundproofing qualities. The Safe N Sound version can be used on interior walls for soundproofing between rooms.
The fibers can cause a contact allergy if you are not using gloves, but the insulation itself is hypoallergenic for most people.
- R-Value
- 3.5 inches is R-15.
- Cost USD (2020)
- $0.95/ sq ft for Rockwool (Comfortbatt, 3.5 inch)
- Where to Buy
- Rockwool and Thermafiber at hardware stores across the US and Canada, or through your contractor.
3. Wool Batt (and Blow-In) Insulation
Wool batting might be the next insulation type to consider if you want a non-fiberglass option and you have ruled out mineral wool.
It can be used between wood-framed walls and in the attic floor. It’s more expensive than fiberglass and mineral wool above.
Top Brands of Wool Insulation
1. Havelock Wool has no synthetic fibers and no binders. It’s only wool and boric acid. They provide a Declare Label for all of their ingredients. This is the purest of the wool options (and really the most natural insulation all around).
It’s definitely a favorite in the environmentally sensitive community. You can buy it online which makes it the most accessible wool brand.
2. Oregon Shepard is made from wool fiber, borate, sodium carbonate, and casein.
3. Black Mountain NatuWool which is 95% wool and 5% polyester binder is treated with borax. Though in some of their informational materials it says it’s treated with kaliumfluorotitanat.
4. Wool Life USA makes wool insulation treated with permethrin instead of borax acid. They claim on their site that this is a bio-based insect repellant which is not accurate.
Blown-in Wool Insulation
The purest option here will be the blow-in wool insulation.
Some extremely sensitive folks have done well with Oregon Shepard blow-in and another extremely sensitive person did well with Havelock loose-fill. I tested Havelock and found that it did have a noticeable wooly smell, though others have barely noticed it.
The natural oils of the wool have an odor that may not work for some sensitive people, although it is not an additive or chemical smell.
While none of them claim organic certification, wool is one of the purest options.
As for borax/boric acid, I’m mostly concerned about inhalation, ingestion, and absorption through touching eyes and mouth. I’m not very concerned about it once it’s behind the wall.
- R-Value
- Wool in batts has R-13.7 in 3.5 inches
Blow in dense-pack R-value: can be 15.3 in 3.5 inches
- Wool in batts has R-13.7 in 3.5 inches
- Cost USD (2020)
- Havelock Loose Fill is $1.97/sq ft
Havelock Batts is $1.62/sq ft
- Havelock Loose Fill is $1.97/sq ft
- Where to Buy
- Buy through local green building supply shops or buy Havelock online.
4. Recycled Cotton Batt
Ultratouch Insulation is what my builder used in my chemical-free tiny home. If you rule out fiberglass, mineral wool, and real wool, this would be something else to consider.
It used to be made from new denim scraps, but they have moved to recycled denim now. It does contain boric and ammonium sulfate and an olefin binding fiber (similar to rayon).
You have to test it for your own sensitivities. I became more sensitive to fabric treatments after I moved into my house (and I had the type made from new scraps).
I would not use this insulation again due to its poor ability to hold itself tight in the walls, the potential for mold if it gets wet, and the slight odor I picked up.
It can be used between wood-framed walls though it does not hold itself up well in ceilings/between floor joists, especially compared to mineral wool. I personally would not use it in a basement.
- Other Info
- Wear an N95 mask while cutting and installing as it does get extremely dusty when working with it.
- R-Value
- For the 3.5” thickness, you get an R-Value of 13
- Cost USD (2020)
- $0.79/sq ft
- Where to Buy
- This had to be special ordered when I built my house. Now, you can buy it at Lowes and Home Depot.
5. Hemp Insulation
Hemp insulation is the newest alternative insulation in the North American market. It’s been used for much longer in Europe.
I think it is very promising. It’s harder to source and more expensive than some of the other options in this category, but it could be really great for someone who wants something natural and who hasn’t done well with the other options above.
Brands
1. Thermo-Hemp out of Europe was one of the first brands of hemp insulation.
2. HempWool is 90% hemp and 10% polyester. Order from Hempitecture.
3. MEM in Canada makes an insulation that is 88% hemp and 12% polyester.
Companies have been coming and going out of business rapidly in the hemp insulation industry.
Ask them what they add to it, apart from hemp: alternate fibers, binders, flame retardants, and if it’s organic. And always test a sample first! Note that Polyester is not biodegradable.
- R-Value
- It is R-13 for 3.5 inches
- It is R-13 for 3.5 inches
- Where to Buy
- Contact the companies on where to source it.
Blown-In Insulation
1. Cellulose
Recycled cellulose is an option often slated for those with chemical sensitivity. It is a blown-in insulation made with recycled newspaper that contains a fire repellent like boric acid.
Newspapers are made with “soy-based” inks but they still contain many other chemicals in the inks apart from soy, and there are additional additives in the insulation, usually mineral oil.
Dense-packed cellulose is often used in Passive House design, which has great attention to details around moisture management and green healthy materials.
It is used in both walls and attics.
Safe Brands of Cellulose Insulation
1. GreenFiber brand from Lowes and Home Depot is 85% recycled newspaper. They have a Declare Label which lists boric acid, sodium pentaborate pentahydrate, ammonium sulfate, mineral oil, monoammonium phosphate, calcium carbonate, and corn starch.
2. Ecocell makes batts that are a mix of cellulose and cotton. It also contains PET plastic, boric acid, as well as sodium poly borate, and ammonium sulfate. You can find this insulation without ammonium sulfate – that may be special order.
3. Weathershield brand by Rona in Canada.
- R-Value
- 13.3 for 3.5 inches
- Cost USD (2020)
- $0.32/sq ft
2. AirKrete Cementitious Insulation
AirKrete is a cementitious blown-in insulation that claims to be VOC-free. It has passed the “sleep next to it test” of many chemically sensitive people.
The company, however, has declined to participate in the industry-standard VOC test as well as the proper R-value test, so there is some doubt around this product’s claims.
We don’t know what the undisclosed 2% of this product’s ingredients are, but many with severe chemical sensitivities have chosen to go with this option and have done well with it.
Because it is a foam, it will get into all the cracks and crevices and therefore give you a higher “real life” R-Value than the batts.
Some people have reported shrinking, crumbling, and trouble drying. Here is the source for the concerns.
Paula Baker-Laport continues to recommend this insulation, so I’m assuming that many are still doing well with it.
It can be used in walls and roofs. (Consult with an architect when designing an unvented roof).
Non-organic options like AirKrete are more likely to be hypoallergenic.
- R-Value
- R-13 for 3.5 inches
- Cost USD
- Around $2.25/sq ft including installation costs
- Where to Source
- You would have to check to see if you have a certified installer in your area before proceeding.
3. Real Wool, Mineral Wool, and Fiberglass Blown-In
These three insulation types can be blown in as well. Fiberglass (pictured) is the most common blown-in insulation, followed by cellulose.
Mineral wool and real wool blown-in are less common but are healthier choices.
Brand names can be found in those respective sections above.
Exterior Insulation for Houses
1. Styrofoam/Rigid Foam
i. Polyisocyanurate “Polyiso” Foam Board Insulation
Polyiso is one of the insulation types that is used on the exterior side of sheathing.
Typical current blowing agents for polyiso are CO2 and pentane. There is some “thermal drift”, meaning the blowing agents offgas over time. The offgassing is extremely minimal.
This is going to become a very common exterior insulation as building codes move towards requiring exterior insulation.
It can be used in trailers and metal structures as well. It’s not to be used under slabs.
Flame retardants are a bigger concern than trace pentane. The most common flame retardant is TCPP. It’s best to look for brands that don’t use a halogenated flame retardant like TCPP. Newer and safer flame retardants are non-halogenated phosphorus-based.
Though the foil does block the FR, the edges are unsealed and it will never be perfect.
Healthy Brands of Polyiso Foam Insulation
1. Johns Manville Foil Faced Polyiso has been the most popular brand among those who are sensitive, but they have discontinued Energy 3E, which was the one made without TCPP (all they have said is that it is phosphorus-based and is non-halogenated).
2. GAF polyiso EnergyGuard-NH uses a halogen-free flame retardant (which is phosphorus-based, like the Energy 3E FR was). “Unlike TCPP, the flame retardant becomes part of the polymer backbone of the insulation—so there is no free flame retardant that can leach out”, according to GAF’s director of sustainability Martin Grohman. “TCPP, by contrast, is not chemically bonded to the polyiso polymer, so it can more readily escape.” Source
3. ZIP System R-Sheathing is the Huber Zip OSB sheathing, polyiso, and weather-resistant barrier all in one. Though you can use the above two brands as exterior insulation on the outside of the plywood or OSB, “ZIP-R”, as this type is normally called, is integrated with the sheathing, with the polyiso on the interior side. The flame retardant is TCPP.
- R-Value
- Technically it’s R-6/ inch but it’s really about R-5.6/inch over its lifespan because it loses R-Value over time. It also loses R-value the colder it gets.
- Cost by R-Value (R6)
- R-6 is $0.60 / sq ft
ii. Extruded Polystyrene (XPS)
XPS (extruded polystyrene) is another common exterior insulation outbound of the sheathing. It is also used on exterior concrete basement walls, underneath the slab, and in trailers.
XPS, like polyiso, has some “thermal drift” i.e. some very slow offgassing of the blowing agents over time. “Over a long period of time (50 to 75 years), the blowing agent slowly diffuses through the thickness of the foam” (source).
Typical blowing agents for XPS are CFC-12, HCFC-142b, and HFC-134a, but they change their formulas over time.
HFCs contribute to global warming. Changes started January 1st, 2021. Eleven states have banned foams blown with HFC-134a and other high-GWP blowing agents, including HFC-245fa as of January 1st 2022. A ban on high-GWP blowing agents also went into effect in Canada on Jan. 1, 2021. Canada did not ban HFC-134a but created maximum GWP for foam blowing agents.
Ownings Corning doesn’t use HFC-134a (GWP of 1430) anymore, they now uses a hydrofluoroolefin (HFO) blowing agent with a GWP of less than 80. And DuPont now offers a reduced GWP foam available in Canada and HFC-regulated U.S. states. The blowing agent is not disclosed. They say that the GWP was reduced by 20%+ (source, source, source).
XPS insulation was treated with the flame retardant hexabromocyclododecane (HBCD) until recently. The two main brands, Dow Styrofoam (Lowes) and Owens Corning Foamular (Home Depot) no longer contain HBCD.
Most are now using a butadiene styrene brominated copolymer as the flame retardant (Source). DOW lists a brominated flame retardant (FR122P) in some of their XPS.
How Concerning are These Flame Retardants in Rigid Foam?
Flame retardants are sometimes considered non-volatile and sometimes semi-volatile. They leach out in dust form as opposed to gas. If they become dust borne in the house, the main route of exposure is hand to mouth, though you can also inhale them.
My post on Flame Retardants goes into more detail.
- R-Value
- R-5/inch
- Cost by R-Value
- R-5 is 0.60/ sq ft
2. Mineral Wool Board
The other common and easy-to-source exterior insulation used in the US and Canada is Rockwool, in board form.
The Rockwool Comfortboards will be used more and more as many codes across the US shift to requiring exterior insulation.
Foam and Rockwool will be the two main exterior insulation types to consider since they will be familiar to builders and easy to source.
The boards can also be used on interior basement walls. They are also being used under the slab, as the only alternative to foam insulation there.
- R-Value
- R-4/inch
- Cost by R-Value (R6)
- R-6 is $1. 24 sq ft
3. Cork
Thermacork insulation, unlike cork flooring, does not contain adhesives. It is held together by compressing it with heat which releases a natural binder in the cork.
The cork does give off a smoky smell that dissipates with time, as well as the natural odor of cork.
This is a newer product in North America and is more expensive than the more conventional options.
If you can afford it, it is my top pick for non-toxic exterior insulation due to a lack of additives and flame retardants.
It can be used as exterior insulation or even the facade of a house which serves the purpose of siding, insulation, and noise reduction.
See this post as an example or cork used as the facade.
- R-Value
- R-4/inch
- Cost by R-Value (R8)
- R-8 (doesn’t come in R-6) it’s $4.93/sq ft for the insulation type (rougher than the facade)
R-8 in the facade grade, which covers your exterior insulation and your siding in one, is 10.77/sq ft
- R-8 (doesn’t come in R-6) it’s $4.93/sq ft for the insulation type (rougher than the facade)
- Where to Buy
- You can buy this through green building supply stores.
4. Wood Fiberboard Insulation
Wood fiberboard is often used in High Performance/Passive House designs as exterior insulation. It can be used closer to the interior as well.
One popular brand in North America is Gutex. It is 95% wood (spruce/fir, post-industrial, recycled and new wood), 4% polyurethane, and about 1% paraffin. The total VOC level is 187 μg/m3.
- R-Value
- R-3.7/inch
- Cost
- R 5.8 is $1.81/sq ft
- Where to Source
- You can buy this through 475.
Insulation Typically Used in Trailers, RVs, and Vans
1. Rigid Foam
EPS (Expanded Polystyrene aka Styrofoam)
EPS (expanded polystyrene) is often used in trailers and can be referred to as “block foam” by the companies.
It can also be used as exterior insulation, insulation over concrete basement walls on the interior, and under the slab. Though you are far more likely to see the XPS type of styrofoam under a slab.
Blowing Agents
EPS usually is made with pentane as a blowing agent, the final product has trace amounts of pentane which dissipates rather quickly and completely. Some butane can also be used as a blowing agent.
Sometimes the only blowing agent is carbon dioxide (based on DOW xnergy Declare label).
Zero-VOC
EPS, despite the name (polystyrene), does not offgas styrene under normal conditions.
It is considered 0-VOC (and pentane and styrene are not exempt from the VOC testing).
What about Styrene?
The concerns over polystyrene (styrofoam) and styrene comes from the following a) chemicals released during the manufacturing of the product b) the product is very toxic if you burn it and c) the styrene can leach if you drink beverages especially hot or acidic beverages out of styrofoam cups.
This is a very old product with a long track record. Here are a couple of links to back up the claims.
In the form of insulation, I would consider this product to be non-toxic, zero-VOC, odorless, and stable, with the only risk being the flame retardants.
Flame Retardants
EPS used to be treated with hexabromocyclododecane (HBCD), but luckily it no longer is. Polymeric FR (a copolymer of polystyrene and brominated polybutadiene) is now the most common FR.
The foil faces on these insulations block the flame retardants. However, the foil and plastic-backed versions can have some offgassing odor. Some EPS is not backed with anything.
EPS used in packaging and cups does not contain a flame retardant and people have sometimes been able to source this type of foam for small structures.
If using EPS in a living space I would recommend borate treated foam to prevent ants from tunneling in.
R-14 for 3.4 inches EPS.
2. Reflectix and Prodex Insulation
Reflectix is a bubble foil made of aluminum over polyethylene bubble wrap. It is flexible, very thin, and claims to have a very high R-value. The thicker version claims R-21 (which is higher than 5 inches of wool).
These claims are disputed by Green Building Advisor and the Government of Canada. The former states that the 3/8th-inch foil has an R-value of only 1 (the same as a single pane of glass).
This would hardly be useful anywhere unless it is in a curved trailer, RV, or vehicle where all other options have been ruled out. Sometimes it’s just used to insulate windows, which can be a great help.
Prodex is another similar material – foil and polyethylene-based – that also has a disputed R-value.
Many similar brands can be found easily on Amazon or Home Depot.
3. Aerogel Insulation
Aerogel is a fairly new product – unusual, extremely expensive, and harder to source.
The term itself can refer to a variety of materials from the original silica translucent product to polymer-based products that may include the addition of fibers.
The original Aerogel insulation was developed by NASA.
Aspen Aerogel collaborated with NASA to make their polymer enhanced aerogel combined with fibers.
Some companies are selling insulation online that they claim is Aerogel. I would look closely at what’s really in it. Look for proper studies on the R-Value of it.
They claim an extremely high R-value of R-10 to R-30 per inch.
This may be ideal for small, round, and difficult to insulate places, if you can source it.
4. Thinsulate Insulation
3M Thinsulate (SM600) is an insulation used in vans, other vehicles, and RVs.
It is made of polyethylene terephthalate (a type of polyester) and polypropylene fibers which will be tolerable for most people. The backing is polypropylene.
One percent or less of the additives are proprietary and therefore unlisted. The health rating is 0 which is good.
What I don’t love about using this product in vehicles is that the insulation itself is vapor permeable and it is attached to the walls with 3M 90 Spray (GreenGuard certified, not GreenGuard Gold, not reported to be very tolerable by many chemically sensitive people).
You may find this insulation tolerable and it may be a good product for a tiny house or structure.
You can buy it on Amazon and Ebay.
R-value
5.2 for the 1.65 inch
NB. I have seen similar but more unusual insulation made from polyethylene and polyester for homes in batts. (It is more popular in some countries outside of North America.) It may be tolerable depending on what is added to it.
5. Vacuum Insulation Panels
Vacuum Insulation Panels have the highest insulation value of any of the insulation materials.
These Panasonic panels have an R-Value of R-60 per inch. They were used in the latest Leaf House design (tiny house). This could allow you to build a tiny house for almost any climate. Though this introduces a tricky metallic vapor barrier which needs to be carefully thought out.
The foil vacuum pack will block any VOCs from migrating through, but your moisture management system would have to be planned carefully here.
These won’t work in most houses. You might consider them in some trailers or metal framed homes.
They are very pricey and harder to source than almost all of the other options.
6. Non-Toxic Spray Foam Insulation
Spray foam that is used to fill cavities of walls is two-part polyurethane. Some of it may have soy added, but it’s still mostly polyurethane foam.
This insulation has to be mixed perfectly, under the right conditions (there are many), and applied correctly. When looking for a good spray foam you are looking for an excellent installer (the best one you can find) and not a specific brand.
The companies have claimed that it is no-VOC, or close to that once cured, but many individual tests and many individual noses of those sensitive have shown otherwise.
I know moderately sensitive folks who have looked at many houses with spray foam and been able to pick up the odor for two years.
And that’s when it’s done right. When it’s done wrong it’s a massive disaster that can end in a lawsuit against the company, plus an expensive imperfect removal of all the foam.
If you are extremely sensitive you would lose the whole house if this goes wrong, as the VOCs will soak up into other materials. This has happened to two of my clients.
Brands:
Icynene and Demilic are both 2-part polyurethane spray foam.
Whether they have soy or castor oils in them is insignificant in my overall view.
Icynene OC No Mix is still a 2-part polyurethane foam and although it appears to mix in the gun, the installation still has to meet all of the other parameters.
One part polyurethane:
One part polyurethane, which is the canned stuff discussed below, is much easier to tolerate, it’s used in small quantities, and it doesn’t have the same challenges and risks as the 2-part foam.
Insulating Around Windows and Doors – Non-Toxic Options
Spray foam is often used around windows and doors. HandiFoam is GreenGuard Gold and will be tolerable for many folks after curing. In Canada, the best source is Organic Lifestyle.
I find this spray foam to be odorless once cured.
Other brands like Great Stuff, which you can find anywhere, seem very similar to me, if not the same.
Great Stuff does contain a flame retardant in some of its lines and Handi-Foam has declined to answer whether it contains a flame retardant or not.
Instead of using spray foam around windows and doors you can fill in the gaps with Backer Rod and seal with non-toxic caulk if needed.
I have a post on caulking if you need to test multiple brands.
Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.
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Paul says
Yet another place with insulation needs – flexible ductwork. It seems all insulated ductwork you can buy in the US is insulated with fiberglass from what I can find. Any thoughts on this?
Corinne says
I haven’t looked at it but it could contain flame retardants or formaldehyde.
Evan says
Hi Corrine, thanks for all the work you do to educate others! I think you’re missing straw as an insulation type! My company builds high performance structural panels for walls and roof systems, using only straw as insulation in those components. It’s an amazingly performant material, incredibly resistant to mold and fire (contrary to what most would think), AND there are no additives or chemicals – it’s just straw straight from the farm or field. I’m happy to share more about this, if you or anyone else is interested. http://www.croft.haus
Paul says
Thanks for the very helpful post. Is EPS what you would recommend to insulate a garage door? Am having a hard time making wool or similar work in that context.
Corinne says
XPS or polyiso
Paul says
Do you think those are preferable to EPS? I read from your post above about EPS that:
“In the form of insulation, I would consider this product to be non-toxic, zero-VOC, odorless, and stable, with the only risk being the flame retardants.”
which sounds pretty good compared to the slow offgassing of XPS?
Thanks again!
Corinne says
needs to be a vapor barrier so no EPS
laura says
I am planning to remove the current 37 year old blown in insulation and replace with something. I am very allergic to wool. I am considering either Tru Soft blown in cellulose or plastic backed Owens EcoTouch. The company i am working with wants to use Zipfoam under the insulation to seal. I wanted to know if Zipfoam fits into the category of 2 part polyurethane foam (to avoid) or if it is better. I am having trouble finding the detailed ingredients on it. I appreciate all of this wonderful information so much. You are such a blessing.
Corinne says
Yes that looks like a two part polyurethane.
Brooke says
Hi Corinne!
How do you feel about the binder in the hemp wool insulation? Why do you choose mineral wool over hemp wool?
Thank you!
JB in AZ says
Are you familiar with Foamglas and how it could be applied in a nontoxic manner? I’m assuming exterior application for walls as it’s a closed cell product. I didn’t know if it could go in rafters as a substitute for batts in a way that would not create mold. It’s produced with hydrogen sulfide which they claim has no odor unless it’s scratched but I don’t know if it would still offgas typically. Any thoughts? I’m worried that the fiber insulation that we’ve specified is going to infiltrate the home because we live in AZ (no vapor barrier from my understanding).
Thank you for your website.
Anthony says
Is Aerobarrier by aeroseal safe? It is being used to meet Net Zero requirements. Their website says “GreenGuard Gold certified with Ultra-low VOC content and no off-gassing.”
christiana says
any thoughts on Applegate blown in cellulose insulation
Robby says
I have been loooking at Woollife USA wool insualtion. It’s similar to Havelock but they are closer to my home and can be picked up to save on shipping. They use something called EULAN SPA ,an insecticide but claim it’s not toxic. I would imagine boric acid would be preferred over the EULAN SPA. It is quite a bit more expensive than mineral wool, and we can’t find any without formaldehyde around us. Just wondering if you would be concerned with this. Thanks
Corinne says
It’s permethrin so it’s not ideal. I would go with Rockwool regular as the formaldehyde is extremely low and offgasses within 2-3 weeks.
Mary Jane says
Hi Corrine,
Do you have any feedback from anyone that is chemically sensitive that used the regular Rockwool batts in attic floor. They will not be covered up in way.
My main concern is off gassing and any odors as house is small. I can’t afford
another costly mistake as I just had to remove Knauf batts after installation due to the strong smell. It may be the formaldehyde alternative binder based on
previous problems with similar Owens Corning line and customer reports.
Thanks!
Corinne says
Try the mineral wool blow in for the floor instead. And make sure to get a sample, chemically sensitive people could react to any item on this list, we are all different.
Brooke says
Hi Corinne!
Why do you recommend blow in mineral wool for attic floor instead of batts? I would think batts would be preferred over blow in because blow in is loose and seems like small particles will constantly be in the air.
I just installed Knauf batting in my attic and it is making me feel so sick. It’s been 4 months and I still cannot move back into my house.
Thanks so much!
Corinne says
Blown in is specified for attic floors to adequately get into all the little spaces.
Brooke says
Hi Mary Jane!
We just did an extensive mold remediation and replaced all of
our attic insulation to Knauf
batting. It’s been 4 months and
I still cannot move back into my house because the smell of
the insulation is so strong and
makes me feel so sick.
Have you tried the Rockwool? I have been considering
replacing the Knauf because I
know that’s what is making me
feel sick.
Thank you!
Mary Jane says
Hi Brooke,
I am still without insulation as I am still searching. For me the Knauf
insulation batts had too much odor and I couldn’t live with it so I had it
removed after about 2 weeks.
I have not tried the Rockwool as of yet as I am still concerned about
the formaldehyde as it will be exposed and even if it completely off
gasses in 3 weeks I still will be living here while it does. I haven’t ruled itout yet.
I have tried airing out a package of sheep’s wool batts for about 3
weeks now and it is still a very strong smell. I think it may be too much for this little house.
Like you I had some concerns about the blown in due to the loose
fibers.
I am looking into NuWool batts but haven’t finished researching them
yet.
If anyone has info on NuWool batt insulation let me know please.
It gets complicated with MCS some days.
Brooke says
Thank you for the reply Mary
Jane! At this point I’m not sure what I’ll do. I will continue to let the Knauf air out while I look for solutions. Let me know if you find something that works for you! Best Wishes!
Mary Jane says
Hi Brooke,
We have just finished installing batt insulation on our attic floor about 4 days ago. I ended up using Certainteed Insulpure R-30 batts, not the
regular Certainteed but specifically the Insulpure line. So far so good.
There is no discernible odor as I had experienced with the Knauf.
Fingers crossed.
Brooke says
Hi Mary Jane!
I am glad to bear you possibly found a solution! I will definitely look into it. If you get a chance, keep me posted how it’s going. Thanks so much!
Brooke says
Mary Jane,
I am also curious how you found the Certainteed Insulpure?
Did you buy a sample before you decided to go with it?
Mary Jane says
Hi Brooke.
I know you’ve been having problems tolerating your Knauf insulation as did I. You asked for an update so here it is 1 month later in January
2023. I am tolerating the Certainteed brand Insulpure unfaced r-30 fiberglass batts without a problem. They are just laid between the joists in my attic floor.
I have a very low attic where you cannot stand up. Yes, fiberglass was
not my first choice but I am thankful I have something with no odor.
I got mine through a distributor of Certainteed. I live in Texas and
depending on where you live you can locate one on their website. It
was sent to me directly and I had an installer put it in. Hope this helps!
Brooke says
Hi Mary Jane! Thank you for your reply! I’m glad the new insulation is still working for you. We live in Texas as well, so I’ll definitely look up the fiberglass product. I still have not been able to move back into my hone with the Knauf batting. We are also getting ready to build a lake house in Horseshoe Bay, and we’ve met with a local builder who builds healthier homes. They have recommended a new foam product. I would never have considered foam EVER, but the builders wife had severe sensitivities like me and has been fine using this product for her and others like us. I’m going to look into it, and I’ll get back to you on what I find out. Hopefully it can be helpful to others on here as well. Thanks again! 🙂
And as a side not, I’m severely sensitive to many things, so I’ve started doing RE-Origin, similar to DNRS and Gupta program. It’s brain retraining for people like us who have MCS and MCAS. Others have healed, so I’m staying hopeful!
Stephen says
Do you have a favorite Vapor Barrier product that you’d recommend with Rockwool? I’m in Northern Wisconsin so the barrier will be inside the Rockwool between the studs and wall covering.
Corinne says
Only a building science expert can specify that. But usually Intello Plus is the way to go.
Julia says
Hello Corinne,
I asked about this a year ago and still have not been able to decide on what to do, meanwhile, we have no insulation. We live in Dallas Texas I am really interested in Milo Insulation made from sourgum, but can’t find anything about it except from the company itself and customer reviews. Would be great to know your thoughts https://www.miloinsulation.com/ I learned about them on the radio show about home repairs.
Thank you,
Julia
Corinne says
It may be great, but I don’t list here (or use) anything that experimental.
HelenS says
I just wanted to mention that a regular bread knife works very well for cutting mineral wool batts. My unfinished basement has a lot of irregular bays, diagonal bracing, etc., and I was able to custom fit the batts to the walls quite well. I bought a secondhand bread knife for a few dollars to use solely for that purpose.
I have not been able to find anyone in the Seattle area who does blown-in mineral wool insulation.
Corinne says
Thank you Helen
MJ says
I am going to be having Knauf Eco Batt insulation installed in attic floor. The company has also recommended that we Air seal with a product called Soudafoam all sources of air infiltration from the attic to the living space including top plate penetrations, supply boots, recessed lights (we have about 25) (seal around seams of recessed lights with incandescent lights, seal entire canister where CFLs exist), exhaust fans, and ceiling fans, power supplies, and smoke alarms. They plan to seal plumbing penetrations with DAP silicone caulk to prevent air infiltration from plumbing.penetrations.
Do any chemically sensitive folks have feedback on DAP silicone caulk and Soudafoam closed cell foam. Thanks so much!
Corinne says
Soudafoam is a one part PU spray foam, mentioned at the end of the article. Non Toxic Caulks have their own article on this site.
MJ says
Well……. I had an insulation company seal all areas with Soudafoam. No problem in being able to tolerate it.
They then installed Knauf Unfaced batts R-30 on the attic floor. The attic is not very tall. Really can’t stand up in it.
It had been there for 2 weeks. I noticed an odor at the time installation but hoped it would dissipate over time. It did not. Permeated the house. Not pleasant and had a headache the whole time.
I had it removed yesterday. The odor is gone.
I know that eco batts of several different brands have had problems with the formaldehyde alternative binder apparently in the past.
Still trying to find a solution that I can tolerate. I noticed an odor from the Knauf when it was installed in an outdoor shed that we were going to climate control. But that was in an outdoors open space, doors open and then it was covered up.
Same thing in a small bathroom indoors but it quickly covered in Sheetrock.
Still searching…..
Brooke says
Hi MJ! Not sure if you’re also
Mary Jane from above comments. If not, I would like to hear from you as well. Have you found
anything you can tolerate? See my message below.
We just did an extensive mold remediation and replaced all of
our attic insulation to Knauf
batting. It’s been 4 months and
I still cannot move back into my house because the smell of
the insulation is so strong and
makes me feel so sick.
Have you tried the Rockwool? I have been considering
replacing the Knauf because I
know that’s what is making me
feel so sick.
Thank you!
Mary Jane says
Hi Brooke,
I just noticed that the NuWool EcoCell I was researching was
already mentioned above in Corinne’s reviews under
Cellulose. Here is her quote.
“ 2. Ecocell makes batts that are a mix of cellulose and cotton. It also contains PET plastic, boric acid, as well as sodium poly borate, and ammonium sulfate. You can find this insulation without ammonium sulfate – that may be special order.
W E says
What would be the best (effective and nontoxic) noise/sound insulation wrap for PVC plumbing pipes?
Phil Hyland says
Hi Corinne
Please make the link for your “buy me a coffee” option more prominent. I saw it once and have been looking for it ever since!
We are now thinking of using High-Density SilveRboard: Reflective Insulation
https://www.amvicsystem.com/products/hd-foam/silverboard/
I want to use a gas-permeable tape around the edge of the SilveRboard that will let small molecules (like Oxygen, and other components of air) pass through. But I hope to find a tape that will filter out larger molecules. I realize that this idea of using tape as a filter will only filter out some of what will off gas from the SilveRboard. But some is better than none. The SilveRboard already has a thin metal foil material over its large surfaces so we only need to tape up the thin edge surfaces.
Obviously we do not want to create any moisture problems by totally eliminating the ability of the SilveRboard to breathe.
Corinne, what do you think of this idea? Are we at risk of creating moisture problems? Do you know of a specific tape product that could function as a filter in the way we want?
Thanks!
Phil
Phil Hyland says
Hello
I am trying to find out if DuroSpan® GPS Insulation (made by PlastiFab) is a good insulation for Chemically Sensitive people. I do react to it, but not as much as with some other insulations. The important question is how I will react after it is installed and is behind a layer of 6 mil poly and porcelainized steel sheets (which will be my inner wall).
It uses a fire retardant which is rated as less toxic than other (older) fire retardants. It has a petrochemical smell but it is impossible for me to tell how long that will linger or if it will get through the 6 mil poly and porcelainized steel sheets.
I would really appreciate any advice or hearing about anyone’s experience with GPS insulation.
Corinne says
The problem there is the film that is laminated to it. Extreme MCS go for a plain foam board.
Phil Hyland says
Hi Corinne
Thank you so much for your quick reply! The film itself seems quite benign. Do you have reason to think that it is a risk? I think that maybe the film can be removed without ruining the structural integrity of the rigid foam. Also, an advisor at AFM said that their product called SafeCoat Transitional Primer will bond with both the film surface and the rough surface of the DuroSpan® GPS. I am not sure if coating the sheets of rigid foam will create moisture problems however. I would love to get your expert advice on any or all of these questions. I am building a small trailer which will be used in Northern Canada so the thinness and high R-value of the DuroSpan® GPS are important factors. We get down to 36 below (Celsius) in my town!
Corinne says
Start with a better foam instead of sealing one that is not good to start with. Look for ones without film.
Rachel says
Please, please let me hear back from you. I don’t know who else to ask or trust! My builder already put spray foam in some framing for walls and floors. You said painting could help block the flame retardants. But is the painted drywall or flooring that will go over the spray foam insulation enough to prevent exposure to future dust? Is it necessary to paint it? I would rather not incur this expense if not necessary.
Thanks!
Corinne says
I’m not advocating for painting of new spray foam as a well to block flame retardants.
Jericca says
Ecos Paints sells an air purifying paint you might be interested in. It’s supposed to neutralize VOCs and pollutants.
Michael Schmidt says
Hello Corrine!
This website is great. Thank you so much for the information. We unfortunately flooded a portion of our home. We had to demo down to the studs and now are rebuilding. We are considering using spray foam in our laundry room so the dryer vent is better air sealed and to hopefully mitigate any possible condensation from the washer water lines being on an exterior wall. We live in Minnesota so the air temperature swings pretty dramatically. The spray foam we’d use is GacoOnePass Closed Cell Foam (https://gaco.com/product/gacoonepass/#product-tabs). It is UL Greenguard and Greenguard Gold certified. Do you have any experience with this product? I know you’re hesitant on spray foam but do the certifications assuage your concerns? We’d be leaving the home for a minimum of 24 hours and running a HEPA air scrubber with an additional activated charcoal filter under negative pressure while we’re gone.
Any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated!
Corinne says
I would never even consider two part spay foam.
Michael Schmidt says
Thank you for responding Corrine! When we demo’d the laundry room we found visible mold (cladosporium) in three wall cavities directly behind the dryer. We had this professionally mitigated. The mold could have come from the water event or could have been due to the dryer vent not being properly installed. The demo guys did say it was very loose to the exterior. What would you recommend to use as far as insulation is concerned on the exterior wall in our laundry room that houses the dryer vent, utility sink plumbing, and washer water lines? Rockwool ComfortBatt? Regarding dryer vent ducting in general, do you have any thoughts on using flex insulated dryer vent ducting versus solid metal? Clearly we need to air seal it better with caulking.
Thank you!
Michael Schmidt
Rachel Quigley says
If you will kindly respond to my April 12, 2022 question I will “buy you a coffee” 🙂
Rachel Quigley says
Following up on painting spray foam. Is painted drywall and subflooring+flooring adequate to block exposure to the flame retardants? Or is it necessary to paint the actual foam? If so, can the paint be done with a sprayer (professional sprayer, not an aerosol can)?
Appreciate a speedy response please, they are on the job as I type this!
Thanks!
Keith Herman says
Struggling with how to meet code in a basement on a new build with a wife who’s genetically sensitive to and injured by mold. You list XPS as an exterior insulation. If the XPS product is GreenGuard Gold Certified, would you consider it safe for interior use?
Corinne says
I would put foamboard on the exterior, something breathable in the interior side if you must insulate it. Foam boards are all 0 VOC, they are far below greenguard.
Rachel Quigley says
Does spray foam insulation contain flame retardants? If so, is there a way to seal them in (like paint, or you mentioned foil)? The house we bought has 20+ year old spray foam insulation. But we are also renovating, and my builder applied some between the framing of the new walls and floor without me knowing it 🙁
Thanks!
Corinne says
Yes it contains flame retardants. You generally can paint foam with regular paints so that might work.
Rachel Quigley says
Is the painted drywall or flooring that will go over the spray foam insulation enough to prevent exposure to future dust? Is it necessary to paint it? (I can use no VOC paint.) I appreciate a speedy response because my painters have started the interior painting.
Thanks!
Aaron Hunter says
Hello, we are building an ICF concrete home in the gulf coast of Florida and looking for guidance on roof and attic insulation suggestions for mold prevention as well as roofing suggestions metal, shingle etc. We are moving from out of state and have health issues and chemical sensitivities and looking for guidance.
Carla A Henderson says
Hello Corinne,
We also are building a home but in Masachusetts. We are now shopping for architects. Is there a question you woul ask an architecht to determine if they will guide us to build a clean home minimiizing non-toxic building materials?
Thank you!
Carla
hemp bedding says
Hemp fibers can be grown in as little as a few months, compared to pine trees which are grown in 12-15 years. They realized they were able to help save the planet by applying the Italian hemp bedding in their barn.
Christopher Parker says
I am EXTREMELY sensitive to smells due to a migraine disorder. Anything new, whether organic, non-organic, etc. can really bother me. The stronger the scent the worse and if not natural worse.
I recently had a couple insulation jobs performed to replace existing blown fiber that was 40 years old. The first job, mistakenly, was done without much planning/thought to possible smell reactions/sensitivities. It was blown cellulose in our main attic and over the garage room attic. I had to have it removed after a month of wearing a nose plug 90% of the time in my house due to constant migraine. The second, the contractor removed the blown and installed the Knauf EcoBatt, but I still could not tolerate the smell seeping through the ceiling/cracks/etc/hvac/etc. in our smaller and less ventilated attic in the room over the garage. I removed that insulation myself and have been able to tolerate the insulation left in the main attic. What would you recommend for least odor and for my situation? I was thinking Black Mountain Sheep Wool Insulation, Rockwool Comfort, or Rockwool AFB EVO which I cannot seem to locate a seller. I am in Virginia.
Corinne says
Blown in mineral wool does not have binders and is the most likely to be the best. Be sure to test all options you are considering first.
Melissa Seymour says
Hi! We are looking at using BIB (blown in blanket) system to insulate the home we are building which has a cathedral ceiling. The fiberglass they use is supposed to be very pure (no binders, no formaldehyde) and it uses a fabric to hold in the fiberglass. What are your thoughts on this for the chemically sensitive? I tried to find info about the materials in the fabric but couldn’t figure it out. Thanks so much!
Corinne says
It’s a blown in fiberglass so you can compare it to the blown in fiberglass here.
Melissa Seymour says
I’m sorry for not being clear. My question was about the fabric that they use to keep the fiberglass in place. Certainteed Oprima is the brand. Thank you.
Aimee says
Hi there. Always checking out your site. I am looking to get my sons bean bag chairs filled and I’ve tried latex but it doesn’t hold its shape plus it’s expensive. You mentioned EPS is non toxic and does not off gas. Is this true of the eps beads too?
Corinne says
Yes, though sometimes they are recycled (could contain contaminants) and ask about flame retardant. Pure EPS is good.
Unknown says
We are looking into insulating our encapsulated crawl space but are concerned about the fumes and off gases for the spray foam suggested. We live in the chicagoland area and need to make sure it can withstand the midwest cold as well as moisture. What product would you recommend and is there a company you would recommend, seems most only offer spray foam.
Corinne says
One part foam + rigid foam can be used on the rim joists. I would not use 2 part spray foam anywhere.
Mark Graham says
I used Rockwool batts in the attic of my one story house. There was nothing on top of it. Bought the batts from Lowe’s in Elk Grove. When you pick it up you will notice that it crumbles into a thousand – or a million – little pieces. It will easily break off in your hands. This is a sign of a large large problem. I installed it in between the joists in the attic. There was nothing over it, meaning on top of it. My house has a whole house fan. There is also natural circulation of air in the attic through the gable vents and eyebrow vents. There is supposed to be air movement in the attic. Anyway through the air movement by the wind and the whole house fan there were millions of tiny fibers of rockwool floating in the air in the attic. I went up there for 10 minutes one day and came down coughing. On the lenses of my glasses I could see these tiny, light brown fibers 1/8″ long or less. That was rockwool. It was all over the place. My contractor went up there in the attic to work one day wearing a respirator and said when he got down that there were these fibers on the filters on the outside of his respirator. And all over his dark shirt.
I removed the batts by hand but that still left the millions of fibers floating in the air. I had the attic sealed either once or twice after this with non toxic AFM sealer. Still there were fibers all over, including on the floor of the attic. The last thing I did was hire a guy to vacuum the entire floor of the attic, which is pretty hard to reach because the roof is not steeply pitched and there is very little clearance near the eaves. I wish I had never heard of Rockwool. I have chemical sensitivity and was trying to avoid causing or creating indoor air pollution. Warning to everyone. This can happen to you! The only situation where this would not happen would be if the Rockwool were completely enclosed, top and bottom and all sides. With no possibility of air flow or movement. No way for the air movement to pick up these tiny fibers and spread them all over your attic. This is about the worst possible insulation I can imagine. Danger.
Corinne says
Wow, that’s horrible. It’s not normally crumbly, so something must have been wrong with that. I have handled it a few times myself with bare hands and it’s a fluffy batt similar to fiberglass.
I have also seen this problem of fibers getting all over the place with fiberglass too though that is unusual too.
bee says
Hi Corinne,
Thanks for the article! We are in a tough spot wanting to pursue Rockwool insulation to our new build because the lead time for orders is 200 days?!?!? This is a one-story, all-brick home in Houston area (Climate zone 2) with 2×4 wood studs and Zip sheathing. We are contemplating using the Zip-R3 also instead of the XPS exterior rigid foam insulation on the outside because of the need for more detail when using an extra material (XPS foamboard) rather than the ease of Zip-R3 because it’s insulation already sandwiched into the Zip board. What type of cavity insulation should be paired with the Zip-R3 panel to not have to worry about offgassing etc? For now we have open cell spray foam in the plans but is there no open cell spray foam brand out there that we can use that would be safe? We have an insulation contractor recommend what they use because they said reentry period is 2 hours and reoccupancy is 6 hours. We still have a little time to change our minds on the cavity insulation. Please share with us your recommendations as we have a family member dealing with health issues caused by mold. I would really appreciate it
Corinne says
You can check for Thermafiber or other batt options in the post. I would never use 2 part spray foam, no.
Amy Sweeting says
I know first hand that trying to choose safe, healthy building materials is a daunting task. I have been selecting products for my home renovation for eight months now and the research is exhausting. But, thanks for this article!
chris m mcwilliams says
What about airborne particulates? Just as hazardous as chemical offgassing. Many of these materials like fiberglass, rockwool, etc run the risk of creating microfiber and airborne particulate matter conditions in a van or enclosed area. It would be good to make a list of material that is safest on both fronts.
Ka Wi says
I watched a video where they filled a kneewall with Rockwool, then nailed into the studs a big piece of foil-backed foamboard in order to prevent thermal bridging between the studs. Seems like this would also help to contain the fibers within the space between the studs.
Tracy Olsen says
Hi Corinne,
Thanks so much for this amazing information! I have long struggled with what kind of insulation to use on my HVAC supply register boxes (the boxes behind the vents in your floor or ceiling that the air blows out). No matter what else I do to achieve clean air, the air blowing into our house passes by this insulation all day. The metal boxes come with fiberglass insulation (which collects mold over time) standard and I can’t find any further info on them regarding chemicals. You can also buy without and install your own insulation. On one house 20 years ago I used Radiant foil insulation and I think this worked well, it’s just loud. Any recommendations of a material so non-toxic that literally the air you breathe can pass by it every day? I’m also contemplating using a foam board and then painting (to seal). Thanks for any ideas!
Anouck says
Hemp from Hempitecture , Shipping is expensive if you need a lot but if it’s a small project it’d be worth it .
JULIA FURMAN says
Thank you for this blog. We are in Dallas Texas and need all new insulation in our attic, we came across this company https://www.miloinsulation.com/ they use sorghum, while it sounds great and they have great reviews, I cannot find any 3rd party information about them or any certifications. Would love to know your thoughts.
Peter says
We are considering building a home with a modular prefab company as a retirement home on east coast. Ive sat through a couple webinars and cant get very deep into issues surrounding insulation and the means in which they ensure the home can breathe vs how air tight they can be.
I know not all companies are the same and can have different approaches. Do you have any recommendations for what to listen for from these firms and/or are you in a position to recommend those who are focused on building healthy new homes?
Corinne says
I have a post on prefabs which looks over companies and some of the questions to ask/things to look for. I would also recommend the course by Cheryl Ciecko on the resource page or setting up a consultation though my booking ap to review companies
Steve says
Hi,
I was wondering what the best way is to test my chemical sensitivities? I’ve always read that breathing any insulation directly isn’t the best idea. I never thought of myself as severly sensitive, but notice some reaction just from a quick sniff or two of multiple different insulation types. Should I not be putting my nose so close? Does offgassing and smell not matter as much if the materials are supposed to be sealed behind drywall? So difficult to chose the ‘best’ material for a new construction…
Thanks!
Corinne says
The fibers do make it more difficult to test insulations, especially fiberglass and mineral wool. Ideally you should put them in a cloth first before testing them.
Robert says
As a healthy builder that also works with American lung, I recommend putting small things like coatings and insulation’s in small 2 oz jars and putting them in the area you frequent most.. that will give you an idea…
Cindy says
Thank you so much for all of the information. How do people with MCS do with formaldehyde free batts of fiberglass insulation?
Corinne says
Many do really well with them.
Kimberly Lang says
Thank you, Corinne, for this very helpful info. I used the info every step of the way.
I have a question, however. I am severely chemically sensitive that a wrong exposure could be quite problematic.
I am needing insulation in our basement, in an closed-off addition area which serves as a root cellar. The ceiling of the root cellar needs to be insulated because we have an office above it with hard wood flooring. The office floor as well as the room is extremely cold even though we have forced air heating in this area.
In my search, I cannot find any mineral wool insulation, formaldehyde free, without having to buy an enormous amount of insulation. (I only need about 5 bags.) So I will have to settle for a less environmental quality product than I want. I figure that the Knauf Eco Batt would be the next best option. Do you have an opinion about that?
Also I am wondering if I need to put sheeting under the insulation in the ceiling to keep the small pieces of insulation from drifting down into the food storage area. If so, would a 6 mil plastic sheet work safely? Or would Reflectix be better? Or would it contaminate the food in storage? If these wouldn’t work, do you have a better suggestion ?
Thank you so much.
Corinne says
In terms of which insulation to pick, if you are in the severe category it will come down to your specific reactions. I prefer regular Rockwool with some airing out. Your basement should be conditioned, if it’s not then you can’t add a vapour barrier on the ceiling of the basement in the US or Canada or you will have mold.
Kimberly Lang says
Thank you Corinne.
I would like clarification. When you say you prefer regular rockwool if I cannot get the Formaldehyde-Free type, does that include Thermafiber insulation made by Owens Corning which is also a mineral wool insulation?
Thanks.
Kimberly
Robert says
Roxul mineral wool from Canada still uses formaldehyde as a binder, they do have a new binder called Evo a soy based(?) binder.. but, always get samples and test first!! Thermafiber the American version no longer uses formaldyhyde as a binder…!
Robert says
Air seal first, the best insulation in the world, won’t help if it’s not air sealed first! And I suggest smart vapor barriers, not poly liners…think mento from 475 or Siga barriers…
Yvonne says
Great article btw. I’m in Tucson AZ. Rehabbing a stick framed 1200 sf building in concrete slab. Used to be a dog grooming/kennel business so part of it had been hosed out and subjected to water. The over hang on the side that gets hit when it rains is non existent…I’ll be remedying that..
I’m replacing sill plate whole way around, using Rockwool insulation and replacing drywall with plaster at interior.
Lots of health issues so I avoid chemicals as much as possible. I’m using redwood for sill plate. What can you recommend as a barrier between sill plate and concrete or do you think one is not needed?
Any info or opinions appreciated.
Corinne says
Yes I would put a gasket there and also air seal it on the outside with a SIGA tape.
Yvonne McIntosh says
Thank you! Another question…In your opinion is vapor barrier a wise thing if using the Rockwool batts and plaster on the inside? I just wondered is better to have max breathability? I will not have a hvac system in this place…open windows as much poss and a portable ac unit. Heat will be wood stove altho here not a lot of need for heat.
Thanks
Corinne says
It depends on your climate and how your whole wall system and HVAC work together to prevent mold. Consult with an architect or building science expert. (HVAC means heating cooling ventilation so your portable AC and woodstove are HVAC).
Joe Camper says
HI Corinna.. Love your comprehensive article.
Hope you can help us..my wife is very sesativebtonodurs and smells, especially mold, part of Lyme Disease. We are finishing a basement and have an odd situation.. We have a 80 ince concrete walls and an additional 24 inch pony wall. I have found cold moisture and a bit of mold on the insulation on the pony wall. My first thought was build out the exertior wall over the concrete wall and the pony wall once complete spray foam the entire new and old cavity. That said, with my wife’s condition I am very concerned that anybspraybfaom will impact her life in the house. What is your recommendation for the very best spray foam for highly sensitive people.
Corinne says
No 2 part spray foam is OK for folks with sensitivities IMO. It’s one of only 3 products I would never use in a house.
A says
Hello,
I’m very chemically sensitive to spray foam( we had to rip it out once already) and trying to figure out the best insulation for our below ground basement (Georgia). An installer suggested foam board. We have concrete walls right now and do have moisture issues down there.
Thank you.
Corinne says
You want them to be breathable to the inside, especially if you have a moisture problem. No insulation on the interior if you can. Comfortboard or EPS as the next options.
bee says
which other 2 products do you mean that you would never recommend beside the spray foam?
Corinne says
vinyl sheet and rubber flooring
Miguel says
I’ve got a floor where just under the baseboard heater, there a 1-2 inch space between the slats and the wall. Needless to say, this lets the cold in among other things. And whomever put this floor in needs to have their license revoked. But I digress.
I’m trying to figure the best way to insulate there with something that doesn’t offgas nor react to heat since the heater will be directly above it, if not in direct contact.
Any ideas?
Annette Garcia says
What installation would you use in a bathroom? I have MCS and am trying to get over a toxic mold exposure.
Corinne says
Rockwool is my top pick for most walls.
Tracy says
Whar about ceramic board or ceramic paper insulation for a skoolie? It is usually used around engine bays to prevent heat transfer, but what about using all over? Is it considered toxic?
Tina T. says
Hi Corinne,
We are planning our new home and are debating which construction to choose – ICF or concrete block filled with concrete plus insulation on the outside. This will be for the whole house (basement and one floor).
We are not very sensitive but we are concerned about toxins. I’m wondering if the toxins from the EPS on the ICF forms will leak through drywall over time. How much of a seal is the actual gypsum in the drywall? And what about holes for pictures, cracks etc..
We are in KY and the summers get pretty humid, so mold is a concern, too.
So many questions…
Thank you for making this world a healthier place.
Corinne says
As I understand it the flame retardants can leach over time. They need a physical path (they are not vapours).
Jenny says
Have you ever looked into the insulation “Guardian“ by Knauf? It is available in store at Home Depot. They do not have the Ecobatt in store. Just wondering if it is a safer option?
(I would add a product label, but I don’t see an option to insert a picture)
Corinne says
I’m curious where you are seeing that – do you have a link? Is that in the US? Knauf bought Guardian, as far as I know it’s all Ecobatt now.
Jenny says
Hey Corrine. Thank you for responding. I misspoke on where Guardian is available (this effort at finding information just scrambles my mold impacted brain!). It is actually at Menards, and yes, in the US. The bags are labeled “Guardian by Knuaf”. I’m trying to sort through the SDS and any other documents, but it is so difficult to find. I don’t know how you manage it! Links I have found are below. I very much appreciate your help!
Corinne says
Ah I see, it’s got 1-2% Anti-dust, antistatic and hydrophobic additives. Those chemicals are listed here
Jenny says
Thank you! I guess the additives are fairly benign if they are often green guard certified. Do you think the Guardian insulation is an equivalent alternative to Knauf Jetstream? I ask because I know you previously researched Jetstream Ultra, and I’m hoping the products are nearly or completely the same. I’m not all that familiar with SDS reports, so I wonder if having all the product names listed together under “synonyms, trade names” means they are all the same construction and ingredients? Thanks for your patience.
Jenny says
I should add for clarification: we need options for both wall batts and blow in insulation. Menards has both options available in store, in the Guardian by Knauf. Home Depot does not have Knauf blow in option available at all, and Ecobatt is special order only.
Jenny says
Just an update for anyone who is interested. I talked to Knauf directly and they affirmed that Jetstream Ultra, Ecofill, and Guardian blow in insulations, are identical in composition. The differences are only in marketing and package weight. So you can add Menards to the list of big box stores from which to buy suitable insulation!
Karen Perkins says
Hi
I am very overwhelmed by all of this information, but very grateful to have found your article before beginning the insulation of our gut renovated 1950 Hudson Riverfront in NY. We need to insulate all exterior walls and the roof. We are using a high velocity small duct HVAC system and ERV. Our architect recommended spray foam, but I’m really cautious after having read your article. Am I correct to assume spray foam is toxic? If so, what is the next best option given we are situated right on the river in NY?
Any chance you can recommend any companies in Westchester county?
Thank you!
Karen Perkins says
I forgot to mention spray foam was recommended bc it is a 2X4 wood frame house and I also do not want to drop the ceiling to make room for a different type of insulation.
Lindsay says
Karen what did you end up doing? We are in a similar situation.
Brooke says
Hi Corrine! I love your blog and reference it often. I recently had to re-insulate my attic. I chose Knauf batting, which I have discovered I am highly sensitive to. I plan on testing out Rockwool and Certainteed next. I am curious if you have any updated info on hemp insulation since writing this article? Is hemp insulation something you still recommend? Thanks so much!
Corinne says
the article was thoroughly updated very recently. mineral wool blown in if you can source it is the best bet in the attic floor.
Rain Balen says
Thank you for this useful and comprehensive breakdown of a vast spectrum of insulating building materials, their cost, function, and properties, but I thought it a little strange to find mineral wool and fiberglass in this list as they are known irritants, and their factories keep having issues with mesothelioma lawsuits.
Hemp wool can, and will, get cheaper as unnecessary regulations are removed and we can begin manufacturing it in the USA, without the need for toxic melting of slag and rock. My company https://www.dopepanels.com , is making acoustic panels with hemp wool insulation wrapped with hemp canvas. I can personally confirm hemp wool’s dopeness.
Why no mention of hempcrete? Hempcrete is truly non toxic, and 100%DOPE!
Yvonne Espinoza says
Corinne, I’m not understanding the Rockwool option.
There are advantages, but at what cost? Or at the very least, possibly not as bad as asbestos?
Here is one article I found, but there are many that refer specifically to the tests done on Rockwool, and the actual product being sold. The production facilities are also of local concern to residents in the U.S.
Corinne says
In the past there was some concern that mineral wool and fiberglass fibers might be carcinogenic, like asbestos. While those concerns have largely been dismissed, the fibers are still respiratory irritants. Installers of mineral wool should always wear quality dust masks, and the material should be adequately covered with drywall or coatings that prevent fibers from entering the indoor air in a building.
Dan says
We currently have R -30 fiberglass insulation in connecticut. we are looking to help keep the home warmer by bringing that up to r-49 and the company has recommended blowing in Class 1/A Cellulose directly on top of the existing insulation to R-49 via GreenFiber. It is very confusing. I have seen some sites that suggest staying away from cellulose due to the boric acid and suggest fiberglass. Your article appears to say that GreenFiber is safe and that the boric acide isnt as worrisome for this particular product. could you expand on that please?
Corinne says
I am concerned with it used in household products. But the routes of exposure are inhalation, ingestion and absorption (through hand to mouth or eyes etc). I don’t consider it toxic once it’s behind a wall. Though if you are not air sealing the wall with a vapour retarder or in another way it could come through in small amounts.
Shane says
Ok Corinne..here is a tough question! I am currently renovating my home in Ireland. We have opted for grey EPS underfloor and in the flat roof section of the house. From reading your post, I was happy to growth EPS. I was concerned about the FR but I knew it was not an issue being below floor level and above ceiling level. WE also got external wall insulation which also used grey EPS. An unexpected problem has occurred. Through the cutting of these boards, there are EPS beads EVERYWHERE. I feel like we will be finding polystyrene beads in our garden for decades. Also, the house is FULL of them. Hopefully when the house is finished, they can all be eliminated. However, I am still quite concerned. I don’t want it all in the grass where my children play. I don’t want any traces of it left inside our house, I have heard that EPS only contains 0.5-0.7% FR. Is it present in the beads (easy to see) or is it coming off the beads (hard/impossible to see and very hard to eliminate from house prior to one in). I simply cannot describe to you the lengths I have gone to in building a chemical free house. But this issue concerns me…I hope to hear from you soon. Thanks so much Corinne.
Shane
Ireland
Corinne says
it has to be cut further from the house and with an attempt for some containment like tarps on the ground as it certainly does become a big mess.
Jo says
What is the safest (for hypersensitive human & potential fire) & most energy efficient insulation to use when building a sauna in MN? Keeping the heat in & being able to handle temps up to 200° & safe from flammability are critical.
Corinne says
I would consult with an architect for that one, mainly because of the need to control moisture. Unless it’s just a dry infared sauna. It also depends on your climate and the wall system you have or are going to use.
Reuben says
I was reading this article today and found it quite helpful. I also found the spray foam brand “Tiger Foam” that claims “DOES NOT contain CFCs, VOCs, Formaldehyde or PENTA-BDEs”. Has anyone heard of them, used the product and can you confirm that it is odorless after curing?
Irene Zeppieri says
I am confused. The beginning of your post says that Green-guard Gold certification is not enough. I have found two spray-foam products that meet Greenguard Gold certification. They are using the new HFC technology so are good for the environment and should have low VOC emissions to meet the above certification. Should I be concerned about other chemicals/emissions from these products. In parts of my new home I have no choice but to spray foam……
Corinne says
It depends how sensitive to offgassing you are, how thick the spray foam application is, and how perfectly they mix and apply it.
Stefanie says
Aloha from East Hawaii,
a big mahalo for all the information posted in your website!
Since East Hawaii climate is different from mainland climate – lots of rain, humidity, saltwater spray from ocean, sun, mold issues …- and I am a vegan (no wool) what would you consider to be the perfect insulation for my tiny home? It also needs to stay affordable and be available here.
I am organic raw vegan and super health conscious,
Mahalo nui loa, Stefanie
Corinne says
I don’t think there is a perfect insulation for everyone. It depends on how your house is designed to handle moisture, how it’s designed to be able to breathe. If your design calls for batts Rockwool is by go to insulation before going up to more expensive and hard to source types.
Ronald says
How is rockwool ‘green’? Requires lots of energy to melt slag and almost all mineral wool batts have formaldehyde binders (unlike fiberglass insulation which got rid of formaldehyde binders decades ago).
You are a misinformed and should take more care to present accurate facts.
Corinne says
I have explained the use of formaldehyde in mineral wool. While the companies claim it’s already cured by the time it gets to you I can pick up a slight offgassing when the bags are new that does cure really fast. I specify this insulation over fiberglass for many reasons, it’s usually a better choice for the chemically and mold sensitive. Though folks can test out both options for themselves.
Clayton says
Ronald, this is not a Green forum – it is one for chemical sensitive people.
Nevertheless, the simple fact that rockwool takes energy to produce doesn’t make it un-green. EVERY form of insulation takes energy to produce, the real questions are (1) what is the ratio of energy consumed to energy saved, and (2) are there other non-production energy aspects that should be considered.
Rockwool saves over 100X the production energy in a typical lifetime (actually nearly 130X per one manufacturer, but we’ll take that with a grain of salt). It also is hydrophobic, so it is less likely to harbor mold than other options and it also holds its shape, unlike fiberglass batts and many types of green blown-in insulation (cellulose, etc.) that hold condensation and compress over time, which means its insulating value holds up better than other choices over the long term, saving more – wait for it… Energy!
It has essentially no chemical emissions in use which is critical to chemical- and smell-sensitive individuals. Which, BTW, this forum is about. And what would be the total life cycle energy efficiency if you have to rip out your walls to replace the insulation due to mold, chemical irritation, or both?
I might almost believe you were a market competitor of rockwool with your narrowly based criticism, but more likely you’re just an ill-informed greenie thinking you’re saving all those lesser intellects out there.
In fact, it seems like it’s really you who are misinformed and should take more care to present accurate facts.
Meghan says
Hello! What about havelock wool? Thanks!
Corinne says
I mention it in the post!
Celina Burns says
I am totally gutting a single wide trailer for my son who is supersensitive. Where and what kind do I put a vapor barrier. Do I need interior and exterior insulation and what would be the best kind? Do I use a different kind of insulation in the walls that separate rooms. Would I use something different in the bathroom? What insulation should I use in the floors and ceiling.? He is very sensitive to formaldehyde. Please let me know your thoughts on this project. Thanks!.
Corinne says
Hi most of this depends on the design of the house – they type of roof and how it is vented or not vented. Give special consideration to the floor of a raised up mobile home as that creates new and different issues compared to homes on a foundation. When you gut is you will see where the problem areas are. The vapour barrier (or usually lack of) also needs to be determined by the wall system and the climate. Most mold preventative builders prefer to design a system that does not use a vapour barrier, in most climates.
Todd says
Is there any form of spray insulation (foam like) that I could use in a crawl space that doesn’t release toxic off gasses?
The structure is a new construction cottage With poured foundation walls (about 44” from the poured slab to the in derided of floor joists)
Looking for way to insulate and provide a safe environment for our 5 young children.
I have been recommended spray foam but I read so much on its off gas issues.
Any help?
Corinne says
Spray foam is sometimes needed but I would not insulate the ceiling of the crawl if that’s what you mean, I would condition the crawl.
Unknown says
I'm a big knauff fan. Reflextic is awesome too. I know the R value is questioned on reflextic but that stuff is GREAT, espcially in the southern states. Under metal roofs and behind crawl space skirting. Waterproof, pack rats don't like it much, and it keeps outside temps, outside and inside temps, inside.
Unknown says
Wool Life pure wool insulation is available throughout the US. Website is http://www.naturalwool-insulation.com
Jo says
What is the safest (for hypersensitive human & potential fire) & most energy efficient insulation to use when building a sauna in MN. Keeping the heat in & being able to handle temps up to 200° & safe from flammability are critical.
Unknown says
Cork factory workers found to be sick from the dust of cork in factories: Respiratory disease in cork workers (`suberosis'). I am not sure if this would affect us after they are made into unsulation panels. Anyone know anything about it?
Corinne says
Many products are dangerous in dust form including all wood. And cork is a type of wood bark. Concrete is harmful and dust form glass is harmful and dust form the list goes on. That doesn't mean it's harmful when it is solid.
Unknown says
Does blown-in cellulose also help for sound reduction? thank you
Corinne says
Yes, it provides some soundproofing.
Unknown says
Can Roxul be blown in?
Corinne says
I have seen mineral wool in blown in. But not that brand.
Stacy Hancock says
I'm currently trying to research what best insulation to use for a school bus conversion. We were planning on rockwool, and then I came across the video where the gentleman mentioned it being made of slag. I don't think slag is safe. Probably doubly so in a moving vehicle where friction might cause dust some how to be released into our living area. I only recently learned about slag due to an issue with some local towns trying to save money and putting that on the roads instead of gravel.
Corinne says
It seems to me similar to Concrete and other products where it is hazardous in dust form to breathe that in. This one has an extra component or it seems like it could be hazardous to also handle it with bare hands. It's not something I would use in a bus though.
Alisha Place says
what are the top 3 safest attic insulations?…. I find wool to be, but it's so costly.
Corinne says
You would need to know which kind of system is needed first, to know if you need batts or foam. Blown in cellulose is often used in the attic as well but first you might need some technical advice there.
Crystal clear says
In search of an insulation that does not off gas and is affordable, I tested different batts by putting them on my wood stove, Rudolph smelt like melting crayons and some form of chemical stuff, but Owens Corning fibreglass with plant based binders passed, it smells like a baking cake. I’m a super sensitive individual and no off gassing of this stuff, however I have done one wall in my tiny house with 6 ml poly and now I can not enter it without a gas mask…..what can I use as a vapor barrier, what can one use to replace accoustcal sealants….
Crystal clear says
I meant Roxul not rodoulph, thanks spell check,!
Corinne says
Hi, is it the insulation that is bothering you that you are trying to block? A sample may be offgassed while a new package will not be. Roxul offgasses quickly which is why it's one of my top choices. It's unusual to put an interior vapour barrier like poly. If you ever us AC you would not be able to have an interior barrier in most systems.
Winged Lady says
I called Johns Manville and asked for samples. I am ok with the foil faced board, but they also sent a few pieces of the insulation for the ceiling. It is thicker and is cardboard faced on both sides of the foam. I don't do well with cardboard odors, and this one does have the cardboard odor. So, what to use under the ceiling drywall?
Corinne says
Depends on the type of house and the moisture management system. Which insulation are you referring to with paper backing? Has that been recommended by a building science expert for your house?
Winged Lady says
No. I'm still trying to figure out which kind of building to build. We are leaning toward Structall panels construction, and that would eliminate the need for the Johns Manville. But I have concerns about EMFs and RF's being trapped in a solid metal building. So, then considered steel frame, and that would need to be insulated. Trying to figure what would be good to use in our very humid sub-tropical environment. Thank you!
Unknown says
I happened upon your site searching for a way to winterize my windows on a budget and without the offgassing. I am sensitive to petroleum based odors. But I am entertaining the idea of using large sized bubblewrap but see HDPE is not considered a zero voc plastic. Could cover window and patiodoor with another clear product after the bubblewrap to create a barrier, but what I wonder? Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Corinne says
It would be very unusual to react to the plastic in bubble wrap insulation. It has foil on either side. If you buy it from a big box hardware store it likely picked up other chemical odours there. They don't provide much insulation though.
JEm Gordon says
Great post full of useful information — Thanks!
Unknown says
Would you happen to know which of these is the lightest option?
Ron Huyk says
Winged Lady says
We have mold in our home, and are going to build a tiny home in the backyard to stay in while we do remodeling and tent for termites. We will be building a "Quonset Hut" of about 425 sq feet. It is a tunnel type of structure with either teardrop or rounded roof, all made of steel, coated in "Galvalume". To prevent condensation, spray foam is recommended as an insulation. Which of these would work best in a metal building? Not sure what "moisture barriers" are in relationship to insulation, as I see people mentioning above. I certainly don't want to invite more mold growth! We live in S. Florida. I am a sensitive. Thank you!
Corinne says
Hi, I can't give technical advice but there is a reason they suggest spray foam as it's the least likely to cause condensation if you heat the place in winter. If you don't heat the place you have more options. Consult with a building science expert if not sure. You can also read articles on Green Building Advisor which will give you the basics on condensation and vapour barriers (you have an exterior vapour barrier when you have a metal wall on the exterior with no rain screen).
Mr. K says
Hello. I am chemically sensitive and live in Nova Scotia. I'm looking for insulation options for my house. Any suggestions of where to start?
Corinne says
Depends on your sensitivities, budget, timeline and what is available there. If you would like to go over it in an email or phone consult my email is
Unknown says
Hi Corinne, Thanks for this incredibly valuable info! You wrote: "Instead of using spray foam around windows and doors you can fill in the gaps with Backer Rod and seal with non-toxic silicone." 1) Do you recommend one type of backer rod over another? Did you choose the backer rod in the link because it has special non-toxic qualities? 2) I'd really like to avoid the isocyanates in Handi Foam. What would I lose in terms of keeping air, water, and mold out if I used backer rod and silicone instead? Thank you in advance for considering my question!!
Trisha says
Unfortunately many of us with MCS are also financially strapped and end up in toxic environments because we can't afford to live in a chemical-free home….it's not a cheap disease to have. I have half-torn-up floors in my mobile home because it would cost me nearly $10,000 USD to replace them all and I live on disability. At least I had the soft spots fixed, but it would be nice to have floors again instead of only subflooring. I can use real hardwood, real linoleum, or cork squares. None of it is cheap by any stretch of the imagination. To do 1100 square feet with underlayment, other supplies, and labor is almost as much as I live on in a year. Many of us find ourselves in similar situations. Instead, I use throw rugs to cover the worst spots and rarely have people over because it's embarrassing to have such a messy floor. However, I had to have the floors repaired or risk falling through one of the soft spots.
American Rockwool says
How about Rockwool Premium Plus from American Rockwool. This Rockwool has zero chemical additives. It is made as a loose fill material so there is no need to add any binders. High R value at 4.13/inch, non-combustible, inorganic and is excellent at sound deadening.
Corinne says
Thanks I will add this
Brooke says
I just want to say thank you for all your hard work on this blog and sharing your knowledge! I am building a house and constantly refer back to your website. I have found most the Green websites to be junk as they promote recycled products as opposed to non-toxic, low VOC.
Corinne says
Thanks!
Unknown says
We used Reflectix insulation in a trailer and two tiny homes in a cold climate with great results. It was labeled r-14 for double bubble 3/4". I believe it! It is most effective with an air gap on one side or both sides (not sandwiched tightly between two other layers.) It is even better in the horizontal position, floor and ceiling, but be careful to ventilate the room properly, because reflectix is a complete moisture barrier.
Catherine Todd says
Great expanded article about cork insulation here
Catherine Todd says
Yes, this excellent blog is giving me hope once again that I might be able to live a chemical free life and "get my life back" once again! I can't thank you enough.
Corinne says
😀
Unknown says
So many options!! We need to choose one for our basement. My husband wants soundproofing so we don't hear everything from upstairs. I don't want any toxins if possible. We are not chemically sensitive, just like to live as clean as possible. Can you suggest which of these will do the job for us?
Corinne says
Ridged foam or Roxul would be god.
Dale Almond says
We are currently installing Roxul "Safe and Sound" for soundproofing between some interior walls. We can barely hear a very noisy washing machine 🙂 It's also very fire-resistant.
Mike B says
Is there polyester insulation in Canada? It's rather popular in au and nz. But not so popula in Canada, usa and Europe. Why? Do you know?
Regards, Mike
Corinne says
It was discontinued at Lowes in the US due to low sales it seems. This one is still available in the US.
Joseph Lawson says
Cork insulation is purported to be pure cork – no additives and have an R-value of around 4 per inch
Corinne says
Thanks. I will add this soon.
Crystal Burnham says
Roxul's MSDS states that it is 1-6% "cured urea extended phenolic formaldehyde binder". Please comment, thx.
Corinne says
That's why I mention – not for the hyper sensitive.
Bill Baggins says
I would tend to think that a wool bat might be a more common option for people, but I don't know a lot about insulation types. However, I liked when you mentioned that materials are going "green" more, it seems like that might appeal more the the general populace. Nowadays with technology and different manufacturing, it seems like there are more options for those who want an eco-friendly solution. Thanks for the information.
ruby says
Do you suggest a vapor barrier such as tu-tuff under the Eva and against the outside wall if attaching to a fiberglass shell trailer wall or on top of an aluminum tread floor? Would that help condensation? Should i apply reflectix first in order to have a better R value?
Seth Ashford says
Which of these forms of insulation could be installed using the blow in insulation? I want to use a less invasive form of insulation installation, but it would also be great for the insulation to also be green! I am thinking that the recycled cellulose is my best choice for that?
Leslie says
Good Shepherd wool insulation had latex as I binder last time I checked. (It was _very_ difficult to get the owner of the company to admit this, but after checking out a sample it was very clear to me there was something in there besides wool, and he finally admitted it was latex.) I had talked with Shepherd's Dream about getting some wool that was really just wool (they are a very eco-minded company, and I consider them trust-worthy). I ended up going with Latitude brand. It has boric acid, and an acrylic binder. Acrylic is much more tolerable for me than latex, and boric acid doesn't seem to pose any MCS-related problems. (As Corrine said, don't eat it or breathe it, and you will probably be okay with it, as it does not put of any VOC's.)
Corinne says
Wow very interesting! Thanks for sharing Leslie
Mitch Holmes says
Acrylic is definitely more toxic than latex…
Kimberly Mellin says
Do you or Paula Baker-Laport have any suggestions for radiant barriers (metallic sheeting material for ceiling of attic)?
Corinne says
I don't know anyone that uses them in Canadian climates but what about Denny Foil?