Those who are building and have moderate to severe chemical sensitivities have a number of factors they need to consider in the very early stages of the planning of the build. You could easily end up between a rock and a hard place without considering these details in advance. I have seen it many times!
It’s incredibly important to build in a mold-preventative manner in order to recover in the new house, and it can at times be difficult to balance those two needs together. So the following areas to consider also apply to those building for mold prevention.
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Here are areas that must be considered in the very early stages of planning a house if you are chemically sensitive:
LOCATION – BEFORE YOU DRAW UP THE HOUSE
1. Climate
Before you draw up plans for your house, you need to know the location primarily because you need to know the climate zone. This will impact your design significantly.
This can impact your foundation type (and many who are building mold preventative want to use a specific type of foundation), wall and ceiling design, roof insulation, and outbound insulation requirements.
It will impact many other materials choices as well as HVAC system requirements.
If you are deciding between two cities or towns we can still start to put your materials list together and see if that impacts the type of house you can build in each area.
2. Topography
The exact piece of land can impact the design as well, since you will look at the topography of the area and site itself, and how that will impact the design – this could influence the size and shape of the house for example, as well as how the crawl or basement is designed, where you will place the garage, etc.
This is also important to factor into your budget. If you have a slope or are creating a hill for the house drainage it will impact costs as well as the lot size (distance you need from other houses/property lines).
Though you could work the other way around, pick land that is flat enough and large enough to fit your design.
3. Building Codes
Another reason you will want to know the location, including the exact location, is because building codes and neighborhood requirements will impact which materials you can use.
These could be codes around things as major as the minimum size of the building, and as small as the type of plumbing you use, for example. Those with MCS are often on a budget and want to build small.
4. Neighborhood or HOA Requirements
Neighborhood requirements can impact facets of the build like the type of siding that is required. In some historical areas wood siding is required, sometimes even a specific type of wood. Wood siding is not the most durable option for rot prevention, and those with MCS may need to avoid certain types of wood (like cedar).
There are areas where roof types are dictated by the local requirements, this could rule out a metal roof (which is what most with MCS want to use). There are areas that require flat roofs (though you can make it look flat usually and meet that requirement). Those are just a few examples.
EARLY STAGE DECISIONS- AFTER LOCATION BEFORE DESIGN
1. Wood Framed House?
At this point in the process, you will need to have an idea of what materials you tolerate. The more info you have on which materials you tolerate the better.
Most who are sensitive to wood are not sensitive to wood when it’s in the walls – but you need to know which category you are in. You need to know if you are designing a wood-framed house or something entirely different!
If you are avoiding wood altogether you may want to consider other climate-appropriate options which could be metal and foam, metal SIPS, adobe, hempcrete, concrete, and insulated forms.
I discuss alternative wall systems in this post. The post on tiny homes talks about some other unusual systems.
My post on (regular-sized) prefabs covers more alternative systems.
2. Plywood and OSB?
While many with MCS want to avoid plywood and OSB, avoiding those two items will create a lot of “workaround”. Most sensitive folks do use plywood, though not all.
If you need to avoid OSB and plywood you may be able to use alternative sheathing, or you may have problems with code alloqinh that, you may have a much more expensive house, or you may in the end have to go with a totally different type of house than a wood-framed one in the end.
I encourage those with MCS to read through this post on plywood and OSB before ruling it out.
There are ways to offgas plywood which could in the end save a lot of money and worry. Or you might want to build with an alternative wall system.
3. Insulation?
You should also have an idea of which insulation you can tolerate. This is another main area that comes up in every consult.
Your typical build has rigid foam in the slab, breathable insulation batts in the walls, and depending on the design and climate, spray foam in the attic.
If you need to avoid spray foam insulation (which I always would), you need to make sure your design takes that into consideration from the start.
With batting, go through the options in the insulation post, as those are the ones we will go over in a consult. If you cannot tolerate any of the insulation batts, again, this will dramatically change the type of house you build.
DURING THE DESIGN PHASE
Decisions that impact the design
1. Avoiding Spray Foam
If you don’t tolerate spay foam insulation (I wouldn’t advise anyone sensitive to use it) make sure to design a roof and foundation that do not require it.
2. Avoiding Laminated/Engineered Lumber
If you want to avoid laminated/engineered lumber to avoid extra glues (see this article to see what I mean), this has to be considered very early in the design. You can only span so far with traditional lumber, so this will change the whole design of the house.
3. Avoiding Ductwork
If you want to avoid all ducted HVAC due to extreme mold sensitivity, this has to be factored into when designing a house.
If you want to avoid AC altogether due to sensitivities, that part definitely has to be factored into the planning as whole-house dehumidification might be needed.
4. Design Areas to Consider
Consider simple roof designs to cut back on where things can go wrong, consider large overhangs to protect the walls, simple floor plans can help with cost reduction, and carefully design plumbing in an interior wall that has access panels.
This article goes over how you can save money in a new build.
5. Avoiding Toxic Windows
You need to design the house around the windows! Yes, this is that important of a factor. Many super chemically sensitive folks have run up against this problem too late in the build.
First, the very sensitive will want to go with aluminum windows (see my post on windows), and those can only be found in certain standard sizes (unless you go for totally custom, very expensive windows).
Aluminum windows are already expensive. If you don’t design around those sizes you are going to end up with either windows that you don’t tolerate potentially (fiberglass, vinyl), reframing the house (big expense), or custom windows (another big expense).
AFTER DESIGN BUT BEFORE BUILDING
1. Testing Materials
In order to not delay the build you want to make sure you have tested out all the materials needed down to the caulking, glues, sealants, grouts, thin-set, and all the major materials as well.
What can happen here is that if you need to make a substitution, some items are special order and need to be considered early on.
You don’t want to delay the project with special orders and you also don’t want to delay the project because you need more time to test out materials.
If you are extremely sensitive you will either be factoring time in for the house to offgas before you move in, or possibly building a type of wall system that limits the types of glues, caulks, tapes that you are reactive to (alternative wall systems are listed here).
There are certain corners that cannot be cut while trying to eliminate offgassing. I’ve seen it done a lot in houses built for the extremely chemically sensitive. But long-term, you cannot cut corners on the integrity of your building system which is designed to keep out water, moisture, and air. Preventing mold is very important for those with MCS. Cheryl’s course on building a mold-preventative home is essential.
You want a builder who understands when materials can be substituted out and when they can’t. Some builders will do whatever you want done because they don’t have a high degree of understanding of building science, and so they don’t know why that will fail.
Or, on the other hand, they may be too rigid and reluctant to change anything, again because of lack of knowledge of how to keep the integrity of the system while doing something slightly different.
I will work alongside your architect and builder to make sure that the right compromises are made.
2. Contracts
Make sure the builder understands your level of chemical sensitivity and how important this is. You need to have certain requirements here in your contract to protect your site and your build. Paula Baker Laport outlines this in her book Prescriptions for a Healthy House and Cheryl also covers key areas of the contracts in her course Building a Healthy Home.
You also want to work with your architect to produce a contract that will help protect you on the mold-preventative building front.
CHOOSING AN ARCHITECT AND BUILDER
1. Your Architect
An architect is needed in any build to help design the moisture management systems.
An HVAC specialist will likely be needed if you are doing a ducted system (or any other complex system).
When looking for an architect, you need someone whose specialty is mold prevention and/or high-performance systems like Passive House.
Anyone who has a high commitment to design and details that prevent moisture problems, rot, decay, and mold is what you are looking for. This can be worded as fine craftsmanship, high performance, increased durability and similar terms which are geared at the non-sensitive.
These builders do higher-quality work, their houses cost more and they have to market this to the general public as high performance or durability.
This video goes over the conflict between finding a builder who builds high-quality mold-preventative houses and one who will build for MCS. Many get scared away by clients with MCS as it costs them money and time and so it’s important to have your materials list well thought out before contacting them.
2. Your Builder
The same thing goes with a builder. A builder should be highly skilled, highly detail-oriented, a perfectionist with getting the details right, someone who understands building science and has an interest in it. A good problem solver, can think outside of the box to accommodate you, while also understanding any repercussions of going too far against the norm.
The builder should have total buy-in to the idea of building to accommodate your sensitivities and be thoughtful and mindful so that the wrong products are not brought in accidentally, in a hurry or to clean something up.
Your builder should also be highly cooperative with your architect and with you (or your supervisor).
Highly skilled builders will be interested in building a well-planned and very well-executed house and will not have a problem with working with your architect and you to get it done right.
If they are not used to building high-quality work, this will be a battlefield.
You can find a good builder through a good architect or you can find one on your own who you like. When I see high-quality builders I list them here (though I don’t know all of them well, and they are only as good as the weakest laborer or as good as their supervisor).
Amber
Hi Corrine,
I need to put ceiling tiles in room in the basement. My husband had purchased a bunch but I am returning them as they are made with HDF board and I believe and that is too risky. Are there any go to ceiling tiles that you recommend? I have been looking but it seems like most are made with some type of MDF or PVC.
Thanks for all you do!
Amber
Corinne
https://www.mychemicalfreehouse.net/2022/04/non-toxic-ceiling-tiles-materials-brands.html
Amber
Thank you, Corinne.
Amber Petersen
Hi Corrine,
I need to put ceiling tiles in room in the basement. My husband had purchased a bunch but I am returning them as they are made with HDF board and I believe and that is too risky. Are there any go to ceiling tiles that you recommend? I have been looking but it seems like most are made with some type of MDF or PVC.
Thanks for all you do!
Amber
Sarah
Corrine. Do you have any suggestions for non-toxic products to use for hardwood floor protection for contractor work in my home? In the past, contractors have used EconoRunner, but it smells pretty nasty. I have a lot of drop cloths, but need an additional layer for added protection. Sometimes contractors use Masonite but I wouldn’t put that directly on a wood floor and, more importantly, it’s a pretty toxic material that has, among other things I think, formaldehyde in it. Any and all suggestions would be most welcome. Thank you so much. Sarah
Corinne
its usually a thick paper product but I have not tested them.
Sarah
Thanks, but I’m not sure what you’re referring to. Is there a name for this product you have in mind (generic or manufacturer) so I can try to do a bit of research?
Meisha Overby
Hi there!
We just finished a huge mold remediation and had to replace Hvac and all new ductwork. Well, I still cannot move in because I am now sensitive to the new ductwork. Ugh! Does it ever end?? Anyway, was wondering if you know how long this takes to off gas? It’s the flex duct, which was the only option I thought I had at the time. Is there something else we should have chosen? I’m currently staying at my moms that has flex duct, and it doesn’t seem to bother me. I’m guessing because it’s already off gassed?
Thanks for your help!
Katherine Marine
I believe Best Friends Roadhouse in Kanab Utah is carpet free, it is animal friendly tho so don’t know if that’s a problem.
Sherry C
Wish I had found your site sooner. I have MCS and was assured by a roofing company that my acute asthma would NOT be affected by the new roof I had put on. They said the ceiling down below and attic above would protect me from all impact from fumes from new roof. Long story short, I could NOT live in my house for many months after new roof from the smell of the OSB plywood and the formaldehyde and resin smells. Also they left so much debris in my attic I had to had attic cleaning and new insulation put in at great additional expense.
I SUED the roofer for all the wrong information they gave me and all the things they didn’t do to protect me knowing I was disabled with acute asthma. I LOST because I did not have a FUME LITAGATION expert attorney and the roofers were protected by a clause in their HUGE HUGE many page contract that said that the written contract was ALL the contract and nothing I was assured or told by the sales person was valid if it was not written in the contract.
I got so sick when I tried several times to move back in my house after the new roof that I ended up needing surgery.. The fumes were just devastating to me for up to 8 months after the new roof.
We as asthmatics are NOT TOLD by our asthma doctors or common knowledge how dangerous new roofs can be to asthma suffers. By the way, in my research for the lawsuit I found many articles for the roofing industry how to protect themselves from the very kind of lawsuit mine was. Seems the only people who know about these problems are the roofers themselves and they are not telling anybody. Just like the cigarette industry knew of the problems but did not tell the public.
I can’t wait to read every article on your site.
How about a list of all hotels that have no carpet. I am allergic to carpeting and cannot find hotels with no carpet. I know of THREE in the world. One in Pismo Beach, One in San Diego and one in Russia. I tried to suggest to Trip Advisor that this list is important to the millions of asthma and MCS suffers. Their reply was thanks for the suggestion!! Yeah right.
Keep up the good work.
Rachel
I am wondering if your attic was carefully air sealed before insulation –my thinking for my future new home was -if it is properly air sealed –and I am having a staircase with a normal door that will be air sealed like an outside door —THEN I would not have to be concerned about fumes from the decking
Jennie
Tru by Hilton hotels don’t have carpet in the rooms. I don’t know if they all don’t, but several I have checked do not.
Judith
I gave up on hotels many years ago because they use so many harsh commercial cleaners that then get absorbed by the mattress, carpet, etc. I then discovered Airbnb where you can message the owner of the house you would be renting a bedroom or part of an apartment and ask as many questions as you want. In the posted pics under each owner, you can see whether they have carpeting or new furniture. Some owners are super nice and tell you whether they use air fresheners, harsh cleaners, etc., or have done renovation recently….. this has given me a new lease on travel. Before I discovered Airbnb, I used to sleep in my car in the parking lot of the hotel where the rest of my family was staying. Good luck!