This article is a comparison of linseed and tung oils:
- Are they safe and non-toxic?
- What types of chemical additives are used in the different oil types?
- What compounds do they naturally off-gas?
- When do they cure and stop off-gassing VOCs?
I review the following oils:
- 100% polymerized linseed (pure and with a stain)
- 100% Tung Oil
- Rubio Monocoat (plain and a blue color)
- Odies Oil
This article contains affiliate links, upon purchase I earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Summary:
Safety: Linseed oil and Tung oil in their purest forms are all-natural, food-safe (“GRAS” here and here) and are considered non-toxic, says Dr. Mudgal, Toxicologist. Those sensitive to chemicals may not do well with the natural aldehydes, hydrocarbons, peroxides, alcohols, ketones, and acids that can off-gas during oxidation (curing). Both can be smelled past their cure times (with Linseed oil retaining a smell for longer). Some formulations can contain additives that can introduce toxicity concerns or make them not food-safe says Dr. Mudgal, like Cobalt and Manganese driers, and various solvents.
Best Brands: Out of the brands I tested, Rubio Monocoat is the lowest odor, though we don’t know all of the ingredients. Tried and True makes a 100% pure Linseed oil (polymerized) which requires a solvent for some applications, and Real Milk Paint makes a pure Tung oil, which for most woodworking projects requires the non-toxic, food-safe (but potent) citrus solvent.
Linseed and Tung Oil – Chemicals and Offgassing
Linseed and Tung Oil are the traditional natural finishing oils for wood – some forms also work well as stone and concrete sealers.
Oils That Don’t Go Rancid
Both of these oils are called “drying oils” which means they polymerize in the presence of oxygen forming a durable and elastic finish.
They do not go rancid like non-drying oils.
Are Linseed and Tung Oil Zero-VOC?
While most of these oils – the pure ones and ones with additives – claim zero-VOC (a legal term), they do give off natural volatile compounds, though they are not technically considered toxic, whether they affect you will depend on you and your tolerance.
Are Linseed and Tung Oil Toxic?
During oxidation (curing) of tung and linseed oil, aldehydes and hydrocarbons, peroxides, alcohols, ketones, and acids may off-gas during oxidation (1).
I could pick up this chemical odor very acutely.
In low concentrations that come off of Linseed and Tung Oil, these are considered non-toxic.
For those who are chemically sensitive, aldehydes especially, can cause reactions. It certainly did cause me symptoms when I had chemical sensitivity.
Are Linseed and Tung Oil Safe for the Chemically Sensitive?
If you are sensitive to odorants be sure to test both in the 100% pure versions, as well as Rubio Monocoat, and see how you do.
For those who like pure natural finishes and who are not bothered by the natural aromatics of plants and oils, both 100% linseed and 100% tung would be great options.
Those who are sensitive even to natural odorants often do not do well with these two oils.
Which One was Less Toxic, Linseed or Tung Oil?
I wasn’t expecting to like Rubio Monocoat, the modified linseed oil, because of the lack of transparency of ingredients, but it turned out to be my top choice for many reasons.
Rubio Monocoat had the lowest odor of all the options I tested for this article.
If that is still too high odor for you, you can also consider other drying oils like hemp or walnut oil, depending on what you are using it for.
Pure Tung
When choosing a Tung oil, I would suggest looking for 100% pure Tung oil.
Are Tung Oils from the Hardware Store Pure and Safe?
I wouldn’t use the “Danish oil” mixes from the hardware store, or anything premixed with a thinner.
I have not seen a pure tung oil at Home Depot or other large hardware stores (yet).
The Behr tung oil contains petroleum waxes, petroleum distillate solvents, and metallic driers.
Pure, Safe Tung Oil Brands
My top brands for pure 100% tung oil are Real Milk Paint and The Hope Company.
We want to start with something pure that does not have additional chemicals added.
I found the Real Milk Paint Tung to be milder in odor than the brand I initially tested in this post which later changed my view more favorable towards Tung Oil.
Can Tung Oil Be Used Straight Without a Thinner Additive?
Tung oil can be applied without a thinner to weathered wood, old wood, terra-cotta and concrete. (Anything super porous).
Check to see if your application requires a thinner before starting because the thinners are solvents, and they are just about universally more difficult for the chemically sensitive.
What are the Chemical Thinners in Tung Oil and are they Healthy and Safe?
Common thinners for Tung oil are citrus solvent, mineral spirits, or odorless mineral spirits.
100% natural citrus solvent is technically non-toxic but is very potent – it wiped me out and made me sick when I was highly chemically sensitive,
Citrus solvent is mostly made up of d-limonene. If you do well with orange essential oil then you will be fine with low levels of citrus solvent.
For MCS – Based on ten years of working with chemically sensitive folks: chemically sensitive folks should generally not apply it themselves, at least not without PPE, and when you could re-enter or bring in the item depends on your level of sensitivity. I would be cautious not to expose yourself to high amounts if you know you do well with this odor in lower levels so that you do not become sensitized to lower amounts.
When I was chemically sensitive I did better with odorless mineral spirits than citrus oil. Now that I’m recovered, I would go with citrus oil since mineral spirits are not totally non-toxic (toxicity reviewed here).
Is Tung Oil Food Safe?
100% Tung oil is food-safe on butcher block, cutting boards, wooden countertops, concrete countertops, and wooden toys once cured.
(To err on the safe side, wait 30 days for it to be cured).
The food-safe solvent is the citrus solvent.
Where Can Tung Oil be Used/What Surfaces Can it Seal?
Apart from wood, Tung oil can be used on concrete countertops, concrete floors (in some cases), concrete or terra-cotta bird baths, terra-cotta planters, on metal as a protector, and more.
How Long Does Tung Oil Take to Cure?
Generally Tung oil normally takes 30 days for a full cure.
Some companies claim 95-98% cured within 7-14 days and depending on conditions, it can take up to 90 days for a full cure.
The time it takes to cure is not the same thing practically or scientifically as the time it takes to finish off-gassing.
Does Tung Oil Cure/Polymerize Faster than Linseed Oil?
There is a statement on Wikipedia that Tung oil comes to a full cure whereas Linseed continues to polymerize for years.
I was not able to confirm that statement that linseed oil continues to polymerize for years after looking through all the scientific literature on tung oil and talking to many companies.
However, when Tung oil is exposed to oxygen, it undergoes a reaction that results in cross-linking between the oil molecules, creating a durable and waterproof film.
In the literature, I did see lots of references to the idea that Tung oil has a superior ability to polymerize due to its a-elaeostearic acid (77–82%) content.
In theory, this gives it a greater chemical reactivity and excellent ability to polymerize (cure) compared to Linseed oil (2, 3).
Linseed oil, on the other hand, can take longer to polymerize and may not fully cross-link, resulting in a finish that is not as durable.
Comparing Off-gassing of Tung and Linseed Oil
In my subjective assessment, Tung was not as pungent when in liquid form, but they both off-gas similar compounds while curing.
Though the odors during curing of Tung are a little different from Linseed.
Keep in mind: individual sensitivities vary a lot, if you are a lot more sensitive to one of these oils you will perceive it as higher odor (if you have MCS).
My perception at 17 and 30 days found a higher odor of Tung than all of the Linseed oils I tested.
Many sensitive people will still be able to pick up some off-gassing of Tung oil at 30 days.
Linseed Oil – Review of Chemical Additives and Off-gassing
Linseed Oil Comes in Three Types
1. Raw, which is pure, is not usually used for wood, as it takes a long time to dry and is often cut with a thinner.
2. “Boiled” which has driers, usually metals like cobalt or manganese, or petroleum (which I would want to avoid), this version could be considered toxic if it has toxic metals.
3. Polymerized/stand oil which is pure, food-safe, and faster to dry. This oil does not require a thinner. Polymerized is the type you want to use.
I like the brand Tried and True because it’s pure 100% linseed, and because of their total transparency with ingredients and additives.
Odor and VOCs that Off-gas from Linseed
The odors of Linseed oil (and the citrus solvent) come from their naturally occurring VOCs (4).
The pungent smell of Linseed comes mostly from the aldehydes (5).
Do you Need to Add a Thinner to Linseed Oil?
Polymerized (pure) Linseed oil works for many applications, though Tried and True recommends a solvent for wood floors.
Rubio Monocoat can be used without their Part B – that is, without a solvent – on floors and other wooden areas/furniture.
The solvents/thinners should be tested separately, and are not all tolerable or non-toxic .
How Long Does Linseed Take to Cure?
Linseed will dry within a few days.
However, according to the literature, the drying (curing) reaction of linseed oil continues for many years even when the oil film is effectively dried in a few days (7).
This could explain why sensitive people find that natural linoleum which is heavy in linseed oil can still smell years later when the sun hits it.
You can speed up the off-gassing odor by increasing temperature and decreasing humidity.
Raw Linseed is slower to cure, compared to polymerized Linseed oil or modified oils with driers.
Comparison of Linseed and Tung Oil Off-gassing
Tung oil has milder odor compared to polymerized linseed in my assessment at first, but at the end of the 30 days, Tung had a stronger odor remaining.
Rubio Monocoat (modified linseed with driers) was far less pungent than either polymerized Linseed oil or Tung oil when cured (to my perception).
Surfaces to Seal with Linseed Oil
Linseed oil is mainly used to seal wood, though can be used to seal other porous surfaces.
It can also be used on metal like on tools. (8)
Linseed oil paint works particularly well on items from terra-cotta pots to laminate cabinets, metal objects, brick and concrete, plastic objects, and drywall.
Odies Oil has been used as a concrete sealer which I am quite certain is linseed-based, but the ingredients are not disclosed.
(In the video, I discuss why I think Odies Oil is Linseed-based.)
Is Linseed Oil Mold-Prone?
Woodworkers have varying opinions on the two oils, each camp preferring one over the other with some noting caution to Linseed oil as being less mold resistant in certain conditions.
Outside in high humidity, linseed does not usually do well on it’s own.
Zinc oxide needs to be added to it to make Linseed oil finishes appropriate for high humidity indoor spaces or outdoor conditions.
For indoor space with normal humidity levels, linseed oil will work just fine, and I have no trouble recommending it.
Rubio Monocoat‘s formulas that are suited to outdoor conditions (they have one that is made for exterior applications).
(Though this is the one that we don’t have all the ingredient disclosure for).
Tung oil has the advantage of holding up well to water and mildew outside.
The Outdoor Defense Oil is formulated for outdoor applications and is very mold-resistant. It is made from Tung oil, pine oil, and zinc.
Top Non-Toxic Brands of Linseed Oil
1. Rubio Monocoat Linseed Oil Finish
Rubio Monocoat makes linseed-based finishes (from natural and modified ingredients) that smell like honey or lemony incense.
It contains a wax component (natural and modified) as well.
They claim zero VOCs but you should test any linseed product before using it. (Some Linseed oil products claim <5 mg / l VOCs).
Chemical Additives in Rubio Monocoat
The accelerator which is a Part B drying agent lists hexamethylene diisocyanate as an ingredient (0.5%), but not all ingredients are listed.
Because Part A (without the drier) takes a very long time to dry, it sounds like part raw linseed to me (though it does not smell like raw linseed).
This would mean that Part B is unknown driers and hexamethylene diisocyanate.
It does contain non-aromatic hydrocarbons which they claim are not a solvent.
I could not get the company to claim no metallic driers, though it does say it’s free of the following heavy metal drying agents: arsenic, beryllium, chromium, cadmium, nickel, and lead.
Because they are Toy Safe EN-71 they are free of any substantial amount of aluminum, antimony, arsenic, barium, boron, cadmium, Chromium (III), Chromium (VI), cobalt, copper, lead, manganese, mercury, nickel, selenium, strontium, tin, organic tin, and zinc.
Other metallic driers for oil-based finishes (that they don’t say they are free of) include: calcium, iron, zirconium, and vanadium.
While I do tend to prefer brands that disclose all their ingredients, because this is such a low-odor version of Linseed oil I still have a preference for this brand (this is what I would use if I was finishing floors with a natural oil).
Why Rubio Monocoat Turned Out to Be My Top Choice
Sensitive folks reporting that they really like this brand is important data, and caused me to seriously consider it.
It turned out to be my top pick based on odors, perceived off-gassing level as well as personal tolerance.
I was surprised by how mild it was from start to finish, though I did still pick up a chemical odor at 30 days in the plain color.
I was very impressed with Sapphire which I found cured to my nose at 30 days.
Because Rubio Monocoat is easy to apply (the only oil floor finish that only needs one coat), is the only oil for floors the doesn’t need a solvent, is easy to touch-up, and seemed to have the lowest odor, much lower than I expected, I have to say it is my top pick.
Performance of Rubio Monocoat
This brand offers unique colors in their stains that few other natural brands offer (greys and white).
Be sure to sample both Part A and Part B as well (though you can use it without Part B), and different colors, which for me tested quite differently.
I tested plain and sapphire.
It also is easy to touch up which is a major bonus.
Cure Time and Off-gassing Time of Rubio Monocoat
Rubio Monocoat (Part A & B mixed) takes one week to cure, they say.
You can use just part A which takes 3 weeks to dry.
Although to me it approached off-gassed at 48 hours, at one week my sense of smell ramped way up (due to a reaction I had to something else), at this point, I could still smell it very noticeably.
So the time that it cures will very much be dependent on you and your level of sensitivity.
2. Tried and True – Polymerized Linseed
Polymerised Linseed
Tried and True is my top recommendation for pure linseed with a stain for anywhere you don’t need to add a solvent, because it is totally natural and because of their full disclosure of ingredients.
No driers are used.
It’s only linseed oil (and pigments and/or natural waxes in some formulas).
A solvent is needed for wood floors.
This company will claim that metals are not a component in their formula or pigments, other than what comes naturally from the soil.
Performance of Tried and True – Review
I really liked the look of the Java stain (pictured), it went on beautifully even though I did not sand and prep my wood properly.
That’s going to give you a high-quality stain/finish in one.
I was really impressed with how the stain looked after my disaster trying to mix my own pigments with Hemp oil.
They offer versions with waxes and resins as well, check out the different formulas to see which suits your project.
3. Odies Oil (Universal Finish)
Odies Oil (the Universal Finish) is another oil I tested.
I suspect this to be a linseed-based finish. The ingredients are listed as: lubricating oil, drying oil, natural waxes; essential oil.
They claim solvent-free, that it contains UV inhibitors, and it has the warning for spontaneous combustion (which is seen on all drying oils).
My Experiment to Guess What is in Odies Oil
I made the following mix which came very close to the odor of Odies: odorless mineral oil (a solvent), linseed oil, beeswax, carnauba wax, lemon, and orange oil.
I did not get the exact match but it seemed close, therefore, that is my guess on the basics of what is in Odies Oil.
There is still another essential oil in there I think, lavender or similar – something flowery.
And there is a different mix of waxes I think, compared to my test. But I got quite close to their mix, according to my nose.
Odor and Off-gassing of Odies Oil
This tested quite strong to me at first, with the essential oils being overpowering for me (I’m extremely sensitive to essential oils) in the first 24 hours, but at 48 hours that had faded significantly, and what smelled to me like Linseed oil was then dominant.
Those who are reactive to essential oils might have trouble with this one, but you can see how fast it fades for you.
As always, I’m not a fan of using products that I don’t know the ingredients of, we don’t know if there are toxins in here, but it did cure faster than some of the others.
They claim 2-3 weeks to cure.
4. Other Brands
Oils labeled as “teak oil” or “Danish oil” from hardware stores are usually a mix of oils like linseed or tung, solvents, and possibly resins, UV inhibitors, and mildewcides.
I wouldn’t use those, go with one of these pure brands.
My Test Results
My test results at 24 and 48 hours are in the video.
My testing of Odor at 17 days
- Rubio 1st place
- Tried and True Java 2nd place
- Odies Oil and Tried and True still quite noticeable odor, 3rd place
- Tung actually the strongest at 17 days, last place (though I like the Milk Paint version better than the Canadian brand I initially tried).
My testing at 30 days when they should all be “cured”
- Rubio Sapphire – this is the only one that seems totally cured to me at 30 days 1st place.
- Rubio plain – I can pick up the Rubio plain at 30 days though it is very light.
- Odies oil – very slight odor in 3rd place for off-gassing levels
- Tried and True Java in 4th place very slight odor
- Polymerized linseed – Tried and True plain still off-gassing 5th place
- Tung oil – strongest one. I do not agree that Tung oil off-gasses in 30 days, at 30 days I can still pick up the odor of one coat. I kept it at 30 C and about 50% humidity. I cannot say it is 100% off0gassed. Later when I tested Milk Paint brand I was much happier with Tung Oil, and would likely choose it over Linseed.
Other Options for Sealing Wood
This article covers in detail natural oil-based wood floor finishes (which solvents they need, how to apply them etc).
This article covers natural finishes for all wood (not just floors).
That post is also a comprehensive overview of water-based 0-VOC and non-toxic finishes for wood as well as stone and masonry.
Getting Rid of the Odor of Linseed and Tung oil
If you used Linseed or Tung oil and then found the odor is too strong for you we can mostly get rid of the Linseed odor smell with the following techniques.
Corinne Segura is an InterNACHI-certified Healthy Homes Inspector with certifications in Building Biology, Healthier Materials and Sustainable Buildings, and more. She has 10 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. You can book a consult here.
Sources for this Post
1. EPA 1991 Impact Of Declaring Soybean Oil Exempt From VOC Regulations On The Coatings Program
4. Identification and Quantitation of Volatile Organic Compounds from Oxidation of Linseed Oil
Juita, Bogdan Z. Dlugogorski, Eric M. Kennedy, and John C. Mackie. Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research 2012 51 (16), 5645-5652
8. https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/tool-care/#:~:text=Linseed%20oil%20and%20camellia%20oil,Wipe%20away%20excess%20oil.
Mari
Hi! Can you apply the polymerized linseed oil (tried & true) on already finished wood that just needs a little TLC? We have a bathroom vanity but I don’t want to refinish at this time because I am pregnant. So thought maybe giving it a little oil might revive it a bit.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
it depends on what finish is on their already, it needs to be able to soak in
Brittany
Hi Corrine,
We used the Real Milk Paint company half and half on our walnut vanity top for the bathroom and it is currently in our house curing in the bathroom but the smell has taken up the whole house. Do you think this is safe to smell everyday? I work from home and I am pregnant so I want to be sure. I wasn’t aware that the Tung Oil and solvent released these chemicals. We can close off the bathroom with plastic in the meantime which may help. Thanks
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
In terms of pregnancy you should ask the company about that as I’m not sure, but it’s normally not considered toxic and is safe to smell that, there is more information in the article on solvents/paint thinners. The citrus solvent is particularly strong at first.
Brittany
Ok thank you I just want to make sure it is not toxic. Thanks for your quick response!
Arianne
Hi Corrine,
I am trying to decide what finish to choose on buying savy rest bedframes you recommend lineseed oil or no voc finish? Thank you
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
which ever works best for you and your sensitivities, natural oils or one of the polyurethane or acrylic finishes on the blog.
Arianne
Is there a concern for mildew for lineseed oil? That’s my only concern. No voc stain is non toxic right? Thank you.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
yes linseed and mold is mentioned in the article. VOC free water-based stains will be non toxic enough for most people, VOC free oil based stains will have some odors and natural VOCs of the oils mentioned in this article which bother some people.
John
Hello, thank you for the very informative article. I dont have any specific sensitivities or health problems but I want to keep it that way, so thanks for the information. I am also in process of selecting the finish for a large parquet wooden floor, oak vinyl record boxes and oak book cases and have some comments/questions:
You mention that odour dropped fastest on the Rubio. Is that not just a function of the part B accelerator ie its designed to accelerate the cure? Is the isocyanate in the accelerator not more of a concern than many of the other ingredients? If so would using just Part A not be a good approach?
Also any thoughts on AFM Safe Coat Naturals Oil Wax? They do give the ingredients on their MSDS. No isocyanates but it does have “Isoaliphate “and “Carboxylate Metallic Salts of Calcium Mangenese & ZirconiumWeight Percent: <1" I am not sure what they are but at least they tell you about them…
Thanks in advance.
John
Corinne
My test was of Rubio Monocoat Part A only. You can use it that way without Part B if you get advice from them on the application and drying.
John
Corinne, thanks for the reply. I had not appreciated that that it was only Part A in your test. So what are your thoughts about the AFM version versus Rubio A or Odies? AFM is the only one that gives a full ingredients list on their MSDS, so I like it from that perspective. And Odies says theirs is competely natural and free of nasties. John
Corinne
The only ones that definitely give full ingredients are Tried and True linseed and Real Milk Company Tung. AFM usually lists out partial ingredients, though it could be full on that product.
R
My husband just applied the Rubio Monocoat to the floors in our new house. Yesterday I went to see it as he was applying it and the smell made me so sick, I still feel sick today! We have used it before but only on very small projects. We need to move into the house next week and I’m so worried it will continue to make me sick. Does the smell diminish greatly within a week? I am disappointed we used jt.
Char
Hi! I’m wondering if you know anything about woca oil.. and how it might compare to rubio monocoat. Thanks!
Corinne
I haven’t tested WOCA but it looks similar to OSMO oil, a solvent enhanced natural oil. Way too solvent-y for me. OSMO took a long time to go down in odor. Rubio Monocoat is preferred.
Froydis Tyburczy
I found this whole exchange extremely helpful and full of unexpected knowledge. I started by looking for a possible solution to a stain on a wooden cabinet and keyed in “tung oil” and received a plethora of information. Thank you!!!
Emilie Dymond
Thank you for such a detailed article! I am putting in a cedar raised garden bed and want a non-toxic, eco-friendly sealer.
Am I correct in thinking I should use tung oil instead of linseed oil? As you spoke about off gassing and curing, if it is outside, is there any reason to wait a certain amount of time before filling with soil?
Corinne
check out the post on planters, raised garden beds.
Celia
Message rewritten from above, to hopefully not have all of the strange gaps!!…
I thought it would be worth mentioning Shou Sugi Ban here. Ok, not so useful for Emilie Dymond, given that you posted this question a number of months back. However, this could help anyone else working on raised beds/planters.
Shou Sugi Ban is a Japanese technique of wood preservation. It has been around for hundreds of years. For this you flame the wood to char the outer surface. This closes off the capillaries in the wood to stop the ingress of water. It also removes water from the wood, making it impervious to rotting and giving very strong fire retardancy. How long the wood remains impervious to rotting I wouldn’t know. However, the technique prolongs the life of the wood quite considerably.
Some people choose to still finish the wood with a coat of oil. However, my partner made raised beds and planters for our garden. The oldest is about two and a half years old and shows no signs of rotting. We can rest assured that this is safe and non-toxic for food growing.
My partner took reclaimed pine scaffold boards (to help us lower our carbon footprint). Using reclaimed boards did incur extra steps: planing with an electric planer, then using an electric sander before flaming with a blow torch. It also involved using a small detail blow torch to get into fine cracks. Had we have gone for FSC pine scaffold boards instead, then the planing and any real sanding (if at all) would not have been needed.
My partner also used a brass bristle brush after to remove the charring, leaving behind a beautiful honeyed-orangey-brown tone which quickly faded to a soft brown. (Brass is less scratchy than other metals for this technique.)
This technique works well with soft woods like pine. I’m not sure about hard woods. For us this worked well because we really didn’t want to use old growth forest wood.We really wanted to avoid causing environmental harm by depleting precious reserves of old growth forest and thus putting more carbon into the atmosphere!
I wouldn’t know whether Shou Sugi Ban would work in indoor spaces. I wouldn’t know whether particles of charred wood would continue to enter the air, even after brushing and what this might mean to respiratory health in an enclosed space. However, for outside spaces this has worked extremely well for our food growing spaces. I really hope that this helps some people!
Lavinia
I heard and seen a house finished in exterior like this; very resistant to marine air and salt; house looks unchanged after 20 years since I’ve been walking by.
Thanks for such detailed article. Rubio Monocoat I used it to finish a dining table and desk. I love the smell but very pricey product. Trying tung oil on my deck soon.
Mike
Thank you for this very helpful post. Would it cause any issues if I sealed in the tung oil with shellac after only about a week of drying? I made a desk with Real Milk Paint Dark Half (half dark tung oil, half citrus solvent) and the smell is driving me nuts. I’m sure the right answer is to wait a full 30 days before doing anything & allow for polymerization… but what problem would actually happen if I just sealed it in early?
Corinne
I have sealed it up after about a week and it was fine, but that was a small sample. Ask the Real Milk Company to be sure.
Katherine Manchester
Thank you very much for this article, it’s probably the most comprehensive review of these products I have seen. I am intrigued by your mention of hemp oil, is it a true drying oil the same way tung is? Is comparable in terms of durability and water/mildew resistance? I know it’s food safe since you can eat hemp seeds. I’d be grateful for any additional resources you can point me to.
Thanks much!
Kat
Corinne
it’s a true drying oil but it’s not as durable.
JJ
I’ve heard there is some thistle oil in most hard wax oils. I feel your frustration without knowing exactly what I’m applying to my floors.
I used a commercial buffer to work in and heat up the Odies on my new hardwood floors. The riff cut red oak still looks amazing after 2 years and love the look and durability. I think it smells wonderful but I’m a weirdo who also likes the smell of gasoline.
Jessica Pearlman
Hi Corrine, Thank you for your website. Have you tried the Milk Company Tung Oil without using a thinner? I would really like to apply the Tung oil plain (purest option) for my (new) hardwood floors although the Milk Company website recommends using the thinner and other information from the internet is mixed…..
Corinne
I have had luck with that by just doing one coat but I have also seen this get messy quickly (ie not dry). If they said it can’t be done it probably can’t, applying tung oil should be done by a carpenter who has experience with this. If it stays tacky and doesn’t dry then you need to use a lot of mineral oil to fix it.
Andre
Hi, thank you for sharing smart info like this to protect our health!
I have been struggling to find info on how to seal micotoxins on contaminated porous surfaces from fungus. Polymers are matrices that resemble a fabric seen at high magnification. It is like a net. Since micotoxins are extremly small on the atomic scale (0.1 microns) they can pass through many polymers matrices after they have polymerized and offer no protection from odors and toxins.
I was thinking on using epoxidyzed lindseed oil but could not verify if polymer matrix if tight enough to hold back micotoxins. Do you know about the other polymers with have mentioned like hemp?
These oils must be all epoxydized version that uses oxygen catalist present in air to polymerize?
Do you have technical info on this that has been tested in labs? if yes how much for a consult?
My native language is french so excuse my ortograph with errors.
Thanks
André
Corinne
Hi Andre, I haven’t seen studies on how to seal in mycotoxins. Normally though I would not suggest sealing in mycotoxins or mold spores. These oils are breathable still after they polymerise so I would look at less breathable coatings like epoxies or shellac.
Maria
I found you while researching tung oil. Still in recovery from peripheral neuropathy after a toxic chemical exposure so I thought tung oil would be ok. I’ve used pure tung oil with citrus solvent before but this time I’m reacting to the off gassing. Now I have hope that things will be tolerable after 60 or 90 days and with summer breezes and letting the piece fully cure. Chemical sensitivities are no joke! Thank you for your advice. Not ripping my finished piece out quite yet.
Corinne
You’re welcome. I find that solvent strong but it should get there!
vanna
great read, learned a lot of what I needed. just a suggestion, maybe to put before and after photos and names of oils used next to the pic of the wood, just for color comparison. thank you!!
TPE
Did you ever get any more information on the ingredients in Rubio Monocoat Oil plus 2C? I love this finish so much that I want to know what’s in it. I always say I am using zero VOC but with Rubio it is hard to know for sure.
Thanks!
Corinne
That’s all they would reveal, I dug pretty hard on that one.
Wesley
Hi, I messaged Rubio today and they told me there are no metals in either Part A or Part B. They did say there is a very low percentage of isocyanate in Part B. I’m not exactly sure what this chemical is but would like to know your thoughts! Let me know!
Corinne
Yes that is the one they do list there. It’s a common chemical you can find it offgassing from all polyurethane products.
Sara
I don’t believe that there are no metals. Their site states lead free catalytic dryers. Lead free doesn’t mean metal free. They also say that hey use natural nonhazardous ingredients. That’s not true either.
Julia Delgado
Hello, I used Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C in chocolate yesterday for our kitchen cabinets. I haven’t been as chemically sensitive in the past couple years as I used to be but I had a reaction to this product. I got dizzy and was having that kind of really uncomfortable out of body feeling, I ignored it at first but then my husband took over, he’s not chemically sensitive but noticed it had a very strong smell. We also had all the windows open while using it. I would say for people who are chemically sensitive to test this product. I also looked for information on ingredients but couldn’t find it
Corinne
The part B is a solvent, it’s really strong. Even just the linseed can bother people but it’s more likely that the part B will bother.
honed marble countertops
This is a wonderful blog on the linseed and tung oil comparison. Things to be considered include many options listed in this link. It is very useful article and would suggest others too. I am sure many people will come to read this in future. You have done a great job.
Robby
Corrine,
Have you or any of your clients tried the rubio pre color easy before the oil plus 2c? I am curious to know how other chemical sensitive people are doing with that product.
Robby
Update: I tested several pre colors and they smell like caramel candy when you stick your nose to the bottle and after drying a hr, I stuck my nose to the wood and there was zero smell, As a comparison The oil plus 2c is pretty powerful, gave me a headache while applying and is strong when you get within 2 feet 4 hrs after.
Corinne
Thank you Robby! I didn’t try the pre-colors!
Julia Delgado
Same! I just posted in the above comment about this. I also had a reaction to the colored Rubio Monocoat. I felt super dizzy even 30 mins after applying it
Brew
Jojoba oil is another great choice in some applications. It naturally contains wax so it seals and conditions. It does tilt color toward a yellow tone so it isn’t for every project but it is a great no odor finish. I always use it on wooden toys.
Corinne
Yes I heard that! I haven’t tried it myself yet.
Jen
Thank you. Great, well-researched info. Can I ask if there are any special considerations you’d make in sealing a concrete floor with radiant heating? I’d imagine the offgassing could continue longer, or is the converse true? Thanks in advance.
Corinne
It depends what you are sealing it with.