healthy furnishings

What are Non-Fluorinated Stain Guard Chemicals?

October 16, 2021 by Corinne Leave a Comment

Fabrics, especially those for furniture, and carpets are typically treated for soil, stain, and water resistance with per and poly fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Scotchguard is one well-known brand.

But many people have health concerns and environmental concerns with these “forever chemicals”.

Some companies make stain-resistant upholstery fabrics and carpets that are free of PFAS, but they do not list which chemicals they have used to replace them. One branded fabric line is Crypton, which explicitly states they are free of PFAS and PFCs, a related chemical class.

A review of the literature shows that non-fluorinated stain guard treatments are most likely acrylic, polyurethane, or silicone-based coatings.

Red wine spilling on a sofa that has stain guard chemicals

Acrylic and Polyurethane Alternatives

A 2015 patent describes the current common non-per and polyfluoroalkyl substances (non-PFAS) used as water and dirt repellant fabric treatments are made mainly of copolymers based on polyacrylates or urethanes. (ie. acrylic or polyurethane plastic coatings). (source)

Another 2015 patent that is active and was filed in many countries outlines a stain-resistant coating for carpets based on nanoparticulate silicate clay and an acrylic-based copolymer. (source)

In an overview of the industry written by DuPont they outline the preferred non-fluorinated (non-PFAS) soil resistant agents, which include:

polymethylmethacrylate (acrylic)
methyl methacrylate/ethyl methacrylate copolymer (acrylic)
an alkali metal salt of a hydrolyzed styrene maleic anhydride copolymer or of a hydrolyzed styrene/maleic anhydride/cumene terpolymer
an ammonium salt of a hydrolyzed styrene/maleic anhydride copolymer or of a hydrolyzed styrene-maleic anhydride/cumene terpolymer
amorphous silicon dioxide
colloidal silica and amorphous silica
(source)

Silicone-Based Alternatives

A 2014 patent that pertains to non-fluorinated stain guard carpet coatings describes a textile treatment made of silicone and quaternary ammonia. The patent is active and was filed in many countries around the world and so I would assume that this is in production. (source)

And in two other patents, one by 3M regarding carpet, and one for textiles by a Chinese company, they outline a silicone-based stain-resistant coating (source and source)

Conclusions

Based on the reading of all the patents I could find on this topic:

I would expect the main PFAS-free stain and water resistant coatings to be based on acrylic, polyurethane or silicone
I would not expect non-flourinated stain resistant coatings to contain bisphenols like BPA
I would not expect non-flourinated stain resistant coatings to contain phthalates
It is possible for stain resistant coatings to contain formaldehyde
It is possible that stain resistant coatings can contain soy protien as just one component. If they claim that they use a “soy-based” or “bio-based” stain resistant coating I would not expect that to be wholey accurate to explain the entire coating

Non-Toxic Brands to Look for:

For sofa brands free of PFAS see my post on non-toxic sofas.

For carpet brands free of PFAS see my review of non-toxic carpet types and brands.

For rug brands free of PFAS see my post on non-toxic rug options.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Non-Toxic Furniture for the Bedroom, Living Room & Dining Room

September 8, 2021 by Corinne 3 Comments

I also take a deep dive into furniture, starting with the specialty brands – those are mostly high-quality solid wood options with zero-VOC finishes.

Then on to simple and affordable furniture made of non-toxic materials like glass, hard plastic, metal, and seagrass.

This post was originally written for those highly sensitive to chemicals as well as those very sensitive to dust and mold.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Tables, Chairs, Bookcases and Storage

For non-toxic chairs, bookcases, benches, and storage units look for solid wood (with zero-VOC stains and varnishes), and zero or low-VOC adhesives.

Low odor woods are preferable for some sensitive people.

Avoid particleboard and MDF if you are sensitive to formaldehyde. HDF is another pressed wood product made with formaldehyde which can be found as the backing of many boocases and storage units. Plywood is not as high in offgassing as MDF or particleboard and can work for many sensitive people.

There are some formaldehyde-free engineered wood products like Purebond plywood (though some sensitive folks react to their soy glue).

Some types of furniture are more likely to have a veneer of real wood glued on to a lower quality wood. In some styles this is hard to avoid. Laminate or melamine furniture has particleboard inside.

Non-toxic solid wood bookcases — UrbanNatural

Urban Natural – Uses either natural oils and a beeswax finish or a zero-VOC water-based catalyzed varnish finish. The glues vary by manufacturer. One brand uses a Cradle-to-Cradle certified (toxicity level yellow) glue.

Viesso – Uses ECOS 0-VOC finishes (which are very well tolerated by the chemically sensitive) or natural oil and wax finishes on wooden furniture. They use zero-VOC glues.

Medley – Has some beautiful solid wood furniture, sealed with WoodShield and made with zero-VOC glues. You can use the code MyChemFreeHouse5 for 5% off.

Something simple – solid wood desks from Staples with an incredibly low VOC (maybe 0-VOC) finish came highly recommended by someone sensitive. It’s only $156, so a total deal. You could add some rolling metal drawers under it for desk storage.

Amazon has a good selection of solid wood-framed chairs.

West Elm also has nice solid wood chairs (dining room).

Simple non-toxic side tables can be found on Amazon. I like this little bamboo one with a clear coating on it.

Non-toxic side table made of wood, cloth and plastic

Non-Toxic Vintage Furniture

Vintage or reclaimed wooden furniture might be safe and healthy if you are sure it hasn’t been refinished recently with conventional products, and it has not been exposed to chemical cleaning products, smoke, mold, pesticides, or other chemical substances.

With upholstered items, take extra care to make sure it wasn’t from a time frame when flame retardants were even more toxic. The post on flame retardants goes into more detail.

Solid Wood Amish Furniture

If you can’t find what you are looking for in the eco stores or in big box stores, try Amish furniture making companies. They build solid wood furniture. They often use linseed oil as a finish but unfinished can usually be requested.

Non-Toxic Desks

Non-toxic solid wood desk with low-VOC finish — Urbangreenfurniture

Vermont Woods makes solid wood desks with a very low-VOC lacquer.

Uplift makes standing desks with solid wood and very low-VOC finishes.

Solid wood desks from specialty stores tend to be pricey.

A dedicated post on non-toxic desks (and desk chairs) can be found here!

On Amazon, you can find simple solid wood desks, like this sturdy solid wood sawhorse style desk.

Non-toxic desk made of glass and metal — Glass and Metal Desk from Amazon

You can also find glass and metal options (they change what they carry over time).

Bedroom Furniture

Green Cradle – This company makes 100% solid wood bedroom furniture, either unfinished or finished with linseed oil. They have dressers, chests, armoires, bookcases, nightstands and cribs.

Pacific Rim Woodworking – This company makes beds and dressers out of solid wood, Purebond (no added formaldehyde) plywood, and they have options for natural and 0-VOC finishes.

Romina Furniture – Makes furniture for the bedroom for babies, kids and teens. They use solid wood only, organic natural glues, and a variety of non-toxic finishes.

Baby Eco Trends – Makes furniture for babies and children. Solid wood, Amish made, with a choice of finishes.

non toxic formaldehyde free Cabinet — Medley

Medley – Makes bedroom furniture out of solid wood and bamboo, with all-natural finishes. You can use code MyChemFreeHouse5 for 5% off.

Zin Home – Makes bedroom furniture, much of it out of reclaimed wood, and some with natural finishes. They were not able to tell me what all the finishes were, as the items are made overseas.

Vermont Woods – Solid wood bedroom furniture (some pieces have veneer), with very low-VOC lacquer.

TY Furniture – A focus on non-toxic furniture, this company uses solid woods, non-toxic natural oils and wax finishes with non-toxic glues.

Alternatives to Wooden Furniture

Solid wood furniture from specialty stores tends to be expensive. Here are some alternatives.

These would also suit those who don’t do well with the odor of wood or have severe allergies and reactions to mold, dust, and allergens.

Non-porous, low toxin furniture that can easily be wiped down with a variety of cleaning products is a huge advantage for many.

Many of these options are also less expensive which is well suited to those starting over after a moldy or toxic house.

Glass, Metal, Stone & Plastic Furniture

Metal Furniture

Metal is one of the safest materials. Metal may need to be washed down in order to remove factory oils, but otherwise most finishes don’t offgas.

Powder-coated metal is the safest painted look finish. Electroplated finishes are totally safe, along with metals that don’t require any finish like chrome and stainless steel. Metal finishes, even if they used a paint, usually cure quite quickly.

Bertoia style metal chairs, pictured, are popular. There are many metal chairs on Amazon that are very affordable.

Other furniture items you can find in metal are cabinets, drawers, even a chest of drawers though there are some wood products in there, shelves, tables of all sizes, kitchen prep islands, desks, bed frames, TV stands and more.

I really like this coral console table storage unit.

Glass Furniture

Glass is the most inert material for furniture. It will most often be coupled with metal like this glass and metal coffee table, black glass and metal desk, and this bar cart.

It’s possible to find pieces that are pure glass, like this table from Amazon (pictured) which is surprisingly affordable for a glass product.

Hard Plastic Furniture

Hard plastics are generally safe and are tolerable for most people. Almost all furniture made of hard plastic will be a low or no offgassing plastic like polypropelene. Sometimes it needs a couple days to air out.

I have seen many of these mid-century style chairs (pictured) in person and they were very inert. Some have metal legs if you want to avoid all wood.

Non-toxic chairs made of plastic and wood

Hard polypropylene, ABX and acrylic are all highly tolerable, low to no offgassing plastics. These polypropylene shelves/organizers pictured below could look cool (they come in metal as well).

You can also find many items made of clear acrylic like this really neat trunk, coffee tables, side tables, shelves, and other unique storage units on Amazon.

Clear acrylic rounded table that has no odor

Sterilite is a plastic that even the very chemically sensitive usually do well with (a mix of polypropylene and polyethylene). You can find drawers made of Sterilite.

All plastic small drawer unit that can be used with a desk

Outdoor faux rattan is usually made of safer plastics (like polypropylene) that will work for most folks who are sensitive to chemicals.

Make sure it’s not made of PVC which I have come across (rarely) with outdoor wicker. The one pictured could even be used indoors in a beachy style home.

Plastic rattan chair made of non-offgassing material

Stone Furniture

Marble and other stone can be made into tabletops. Marble is made with a resin used to fill in the fissures, and a sealer would also be applied to furniture. You will have to reseal it if it gets heavy use.

Faux marble is most often laminate (with particleboard) not ideal for the chemically sensitive. Though it could also be a safe hard plastic, or a less safe hard plastic (like cultured marble). It could also be engineered stone which is usually zero-VOC. Be sure to check out what it is made of.

This faux marble island is quartz, which is safe and zero-VOC (but like marble, not cheap).

Rattan, Seagrass, & Banana Leaf Furniture

You might also want to consider furniture made of natural fibers: rattan (a vine), banana leaves (the leaves from banana trees), seagrass (a reed) and bamboo (a grass).

The outdoor “rattan” is usually plastic woven in a wicker style, and works best for outdoor furniture. Real rattan and similar fibers can be used to make low toxin and even stylish indoor furniture.

The term “paper rope” is not a natural grass or reed, but rather paper mixed with glue and “sizing” chemical twisted together. It resembles rattan. If you are looking for real rattan, be sure to double-check.

Rattan can look stylish inside, despite being very simple:

Are Rattan, Banana Leaves and Seagrass Treated?

Many very sensitive folks do well with these fibers. Though it’s possible the plants were sprayed while they were growing or sprayed with pesticides in transit if they are coming from tropical countries as an import (source).

Rattan

Rattan is a vine that is technically a wood product. Amazon carries a selection of natural rattan chairs, most of them $100 – $200. IKEA carries rattan chairs from $50 – $180.

You can also find rattan headboards (IKEA has one with a wire frame), trays, baskets, stools, coffee tables, storage pieces and even mirrors.

More bed frames in my post on mattresses and bedding.

Real rattan chairs made of organic natural reeds

Banana Fiber

Banana leaves or banana fiber are the leaves from Banana trees. You can find it made into stools or poufs.

IKEA has a banana fiber stool and so does Amazon.

Seagrass

The terms seagrass and water hyacinth are used interchangeably in the furniture industry.

The leaves and stems are made into furniture like this storage basket. You can also find seagrass coffee tables, rugs (more in my post on non-toxic rugs), and various types and styles of storage baskets.

Seagrass stool/storage bin made of natural materials

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Durable Natural Finishes for Tables & Desks

August 30, 2021 by Corinne Leave a Comment

Achieving a natural or non-toxic finish that is durable enough for a table or desk top is only possible with a few select brands and products.

We can’t quite get to the same level of durability as an oil-based polyurethane, but we can get quite a good level of durability with either of these options.

There are two ways to go, the all-natural route with drying oils, finished with a wax for extra durability, or with a non-toxic water-based polyurethane. Both options are food safe, relatively durable, but differ in their application, odors, offgassing, and maintenance.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

The All-Natural Option

Tung Oil with Wax

A wooden dining table finished in all natural durable tung oil

Out of the all-natural finishes, tung oil is the most durable drying oil. You can mix it with citrus solvent, which is all-natural and food-safe. Fair warning – it is a very potent solvent when wet! I usually prefer to use odorless mineral spirits but that is not food safe and therefore not the best option for tabletops. (You could use it on a work desk but then you can’t put the wax over anything with mineral oil).

Natural oils are not required to list any VOCs but they do give off natural aldehydes and other compounds while curing.

To make the surface more durable you can add the Real Milk Paint company’s Wood Wax which is a walnut oil and carnauba wax. You can reapply the Wood Wax when the surface looks dry or worn. Just buff it in with a cloth to blend it into the old wax. You have to give it 5 to 7 days before lightly using the item and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.

This is not quite as durable as a water or oil-based polyurethane but it is easier to repair.

You can use code mychemicalfreehouse for 10% off with The Real Milk Paint company.

A can of wood wax over a partially waxed wooden table

The mainstream recommendation for adding durability to a tung oiled surface is to add an oil-based polyurethane on top. But this is not a non-toxic option. Water-based polyurethanes can be non-toxic but do not adhere to natural oil finishes.

Linseed Oil

If you don’t do well with tung oil or the solvents used with tung oil, linseed oil is the next most durable natural option.

The purist linseed oil is a polymerized oil – this does not contain driers, solvents, or any other ingredients. It’s totally food-safe. The brand I liked the best is Tried and True. They have some options with integrated stains as well as just the pure linseed.

You can also add the walnut oil/carnauba Wood Wax over linseed to add durability.

Non-Toxic Water-Based Polyurethane

Vermont Natural Coatings is my top brand pick for a non-toxic, low odor, low, VOC polyurethane.

I found it to have a good balance of durable and low odor. I compared many different low-VOC brands of polyurethane – this isn’t the only option that could be used on furniture but it’s a good one. Check out the comparison if you want to test multiple brands.

The company recommends their PolyWhey Floor Finish for a clear water-based durable coating on your desk and tables. If you want an oil look you can use their Hydro Lacquer Reactive Sealer (which leaves an oil-based look to it) and then PolyWhey.

Another really good option is EarthPaint EasySafe 1K.

Related Posts:

Affordable Non-Toxic Countertops (and their finishes)
Non-Toxic Polyurethanes Tested and Compared
All-Natural Floor Finishes
Comparison of Tung and Linseed Oil (additives, offgassing, tips)

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Mattresses for the Chemically Sensitive | A Complete Guide for 2022

February 21, 2021 by Corinne 146 Comments

Updated Winter 2021/2022

This post started out with my journey to find the best mattress that suited my own extreme sensitivities. There are so many more options now. Still, many I don’t think are good enough.

We will look at my top picks for the best healthy spring mattresses (no latex or polyurethane) with price comparison (2022), all wool mattresses, and other futons, and why I don’t use natural latex.

There is no all-around “best” mattress for those with sensitivities. Sensitive folks can have a hard time with any of the following main materials used: cotton, wool, hemp, natural latex, and polyurethane. You will have to find out which materials work for you.

The article includes a look at more unusual options for those who don’t do well with any of those main materials, or who just want something simple.

I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission through affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

First, a Quick Backgrounder on the Chemicals in Our Mattresses

Conventional Mattress Materials

Conventional mattresses are usually made of polyurethane foam or, more rarely, synthetic latex which both offgas VOCs. It’s difficult to find out exactly which chemicals were used in a particular mattress.

The worst offenders are synthetic memory foams, followed by polyurethane (though almost all polyurethane can meet CertiPUR certification which I discuss here), and then synthetic latex, which usually does not meet any green certifications on its own.

Going with a spring mattress does minimize the amount of foam and therefore chemicals in it.

“Soy Foam” is polyurethane with some soy.

Flame Retardants Might be Added

Look for mattresses that specify no chemical flame retardants – I list them in this post. Sometimes boric acid is added but not disclosed. Newer flame retardants include Kevlar and silica which, from what we know, are safe.

Natural Latex Can be a Problem

Most “natural” or non-toxic mattresses contain natural latex which I have some concerns about and many chemically sensitive folks react to. I discuss that in the article as well as the best alternatives.

Chemical Coatings

You also want to avoid mattresses that are stain-resistant, as they contain harmful perfluorochemicals.

Some mattresses are also adding an antimicrobial agent which you would generally want to avoid, though there are some natural antimicrobials that might be okay for some people.

1. Non-Toxic Spring Mattresses

My top picks for a safe and healthy conventional feeling mattress are these five options below.

They don’t contain latex or polyurethane foam. I list options without wool for the most sensitive who are often looking to avoid this allergen trigger.

They are also free of flame retardants.

i. My Green Mattress

The Echo is made of GOTS certified cotton and GOTS certified wool with springs. No polyester here. It is $1,099 for a queen (firm).

For a proper spring mattress, this is the price to beat. They often run promotions, which I post the codes for here.

You can buy directly through them.

ii. Naturepedic

top non toxic mattresses no odour flame retardant free no offgassing

The Naturepedic Chorus contains GOTS certified organic cotton, organic wool (with lower odor than many other brands), and PLA polyester with springs. It’s $2,000 for a queen.

This is my top brand, as I like the construction, it’s high quality and it’s very well-liked and well-tolerated amongst many of the most sensitive.

In the kid’s mattress section they have one that comes in a full size that does not contain wool. For those who cannot tolerate wool, this is one of the top picks. This option is firm though!

It’s $900 directly through them.

You can also find some of their mattresses through Amazon, prices fluctuate.

iii. Royal-Pedic

all cotton organic cotton luxury non-toxic mattress

Royal-Pedic makes a cotton spring mattress with no wool. The All Cotton line is not organic, the Natural Cotton line is organic but not certified.

They also offer options with wool.

This is known as a high-end and comfortable option, though like the others in this category they are firm.

It is around $3,000. You can find the All Cotton on Amazon, prices fluctuate over time.

iv. Earthsake

Earthsake is a unique mattress. They make a hemp spring mattress with no cotton and no wool.

For those with sensitivities to cotton and wool, or who are in a humid environment, this may be a better choice.

A queen is $2,795 via their website.

v. The Futon Shop

The Futon Shop has a good variety of very affordable mattresses.

Those with springs and coils will be more comfortable than conventional futons.

You can choose ones without latex or “soy foam” (which is polyurethane).

They no longer use boric acid, which it seemed like some were reacting to in the past.

Their prices are fantastic starting at $575. (US only. They don’t ship to Canada).

2. Chemical-Free Wool Mattresses

Wool is a natural and healthy choice, as long as you are not allergic to it or sensitive to the lanolin odor of wool.

Many brands that use wool process and wash the wool leaving it with almost no odor. Others use a less processed batting that does have that telltale natural odor.

i. Shepards Dream 100% Wool Futon

When I was furnishing my tiny house I was extremely sensitive to toxins. I went with the purest and simplest option I could find, which is a 100% eco wool mattress from Shepard’s Dream.

It is a (relatively) economical choice at $1,975 for a queen. (I have the skinny version pictured).

It does have a wool smell but it is not super strong. It is firm, as it gets compacted with time. If you don’t like firm mattresses I would recommend using a topper with it or using the thicker version.

Shepard’s Dream has offered a 10% discount to my readers, you can mention my name, Corinne Segura for the discount.

Buy through their website.

ii. Heartfelt Layered Wool Felt

For those with extreme sensitivities, a layered option that can be washed can be very functional. Heartfelt Collective sells wool felts that can be layered and washed.

To put together what would come to about a conventional queen feel, it would cost about $1,900. But you may not need that many layers, or you can combine the woof felt layers with something else.

Buy through their website.

iii. Savvy Rest Wool Futon (Cotton Cover)

Savvy Rest makes a futon style organic GOTS cotton covered organic wool mattress for $1,800.

a black and white button that says buy that you can click on

Is Wool Chemical-Free?

When looking at wool qualifications you may want to know various factors, depending on your sensitivities, such as the chemicals used to process the wool.

Certified organic wool is becoming more common, GOTS has expanded to cover wool.

If a company claims all-natural, pure, or eco-wool, you will want to take a look at what they mean by that.

Wool doesn’t need to be organic to be free of harmful chemicals.

3. Natural Latex Mattresses

There are plenty of options for natural latex mattresses made in the US and Canada. In fact, when looking for non-toxic beds, it’s difficult to avoid natural latex.

Make sure it is 100% natural latex and has GOLS certification. And test for odors/sensitivities to make sure it is tolerable.

These mattresses range from $800 to $5,000.

Almost all of the green mattress brands offer natural latex, you can even find this now at Costco and IKEA.

These are the most affordable options:

i. The Futon Shop

Some of the most affordable natural latex options are by The Futon Shop.

Many of their latex options are paired with wool. Some are paired only with coconut coir or with hemp and coconut coir. Others include PLA and cotton.

The simple options start at $800 for a queen.

Buy through The Futon Shop.

ii. Topper from Amazon

natural latex from Amazon, affordable topper to sleep on

The most economical option is to buy a 3-inch piece of latex. For a little over $200 (plus tax and shipping), you can get 3″ natural latex from Amazon (queen). I find that 3 inches is very comfortable to sleep on.

It won’t have a cover, but for $450 you can get 6 inches of latex on Amazon.

iii. IKEA MAUSUND

This non-toxic IKEA mattress is 85% natural latex and 15% synthetic latex with wool wadding. If I was going to go with natural latex I would go with a large established brand like IKEA if not the super simple topper from Amazon.

You will want to check this out in person to make sure the odor of the natural latex and the synthetic latex works for you.

Update: No longer sold at IKEA in the US and Canada this option is only available in Europe.

iv. Avocado

If you want to go with a more purist natural latex bed, Avocado is the best in this category.

It’s 100% GOTS organic certified cotton & wool and 100% natural GOLS certified latex.

Avocado goes all the way on healthy natural latex, with the top organic certifications, no adhesives between the layers of latex (only on the top layer), and silica or wool as the flame-resistant barrier.

A queen is $1,600. They currently have a discount code for $125 off.

v. Awara

Awara beats Avocado in price but it falls slightly short in eco cred. It uses glues in the construction, and the latex isn’t GOLS certified.

Still, those are not dealbreakers for most people in the grand scheme of things. This slightly more affordable option still meets most of the marks for a safe and healthy mattress.

The flame retardant is natural silica, and the top layer is organic cotton and organic wool.

A queen is $1,300 through their website plus there is often a $300 off deal for new customers.

Is Natural Latex Mold-Prone?

After one of my pillows became covered in grey mold after two years in low humidity, in a new, non-moldy house I started looking into this. Over the years I have seen many reports like this.

I have seen melting, disintegration, and visible mold on pillows and on mattresses that were on slats in normal humidity, sometimes even when brand new. Including two recent reports of a popular organic latex brand.

There are other cases of this on a forum, many private messages from people writing to me, and reports in Facebook groups.

It is not clear if this is a defect (these were all different brands), or whether there is a certain condition that leads to the latex breaking down or going moldy.

I would not buy natural latex again myself after going through this, but I do have to say, I have not seen a report of this problem for years now (as of 2022).

Does Natural Latex Offgas?

Folks with MCS vary greatly in their ability to tolerate the natural smell of rubber and different brands work for different people. Here is a list of some of the ingredients that can be in natural latex.

Essentia, which makes natural memory foam claims that the VOC levels of their foam 36 μg /m3, about the same as that of natural latex. From my research, this is around the same levels as outdoor air – but it is not zero VOC or zero offgassing.

There have been dramatically different odors from different brands and even from the same brand over time. So you may want to check out more than one option.

4. Natural Memory Foam

Most memory foam is made of polyurethane and it’s usually more toxic than your standard polyurethane foam, though they are not all the same.

There are a range of chemicals added to produce polyurethane memory foam for different brands.

The only non-toxic non-polyurethane memory foam out there is Essentia, which is natural latex-based. The VOC levels are extremely low, 36 μg /m3.

When researching “background VOC levels” I did find this to be within background levels (though everything adds up). Here is one study and here is another study to confirm this.

Background levels of formaldehyde can be found here.

This mattress contains essential oils – grapefruit seed, coneflower, and jasmine. I tested a sample and it has a noticeable scent (though it’s very faint). Though I would not say it is flowery, it is a bit sweet.

It contains Kevlar as a flame retardant.

You can find them through their website and on Amazon.

5. Non-Toxic Polyurethane?

I would consider polyurethane as well. I personally would consider this material over memory foam (of any type), and usually over natural latex.

It does offgas a little bit, but for some folks who are less sensitive, this could still be considered non-toxic, especially if you give it some time to offgas. It will become tolerable with time.

If you have serious back or neck problems and need something with more cushion than the firm cotton and wool options, you may want to consider polyurethane.

This is the least expensive mattress type, so for some people, this is the only option.

If you don’t want or need a full bed, polyurethane slabs can be useful as simple sleeping solutions. I have used them many times.

White Lotus has a non-petroleum-derived foam that many have done well with.

i. IKEA

I would consider IKEA polyurethane beds. They don’t use flame retardants in the foam. Just go as simple as you can.

The MINNESUND for $75 is the least expensive. But for a little more you can add springs and reduce the amount of foam even more. The HASVÅG is $179.

Despite being a budget option, IKEA mattresses do not use fiberglass as the fire barrier. Some of the mattresses contain modacrylic fiber wadding and some do not.

IKEA mattresses in North America use an inherently fire-resistant barrier made of rayon/polyester batting. Flame retardant chemicals are only used for some stitch bonds, piping, and zippers.

I may use the aluminized tarps to sequester the offgassing, if needed.

Buy through your local IKEA.

ii. White Lotus Eco-Foam

White Lotus makes a simple mattress based on their naturally derived polyurethane. It also has a wool layer and cotton cover.

It’s $986 for a queen through their website.

iii. Purple Mattress

The Purple Hybrid mattress is made of a non-toxic plastic grid and minimal polyurethane.

The Purple Hybrid with coils really minimizes the amount of foam used while keeping the comfort level high.

Moderately sensitive folks have done well with this brand so I certainly would consider it myself.

You can buy the Purple Mattress (original) from Amazon or from their website.

The Purple Hybrid Mattress, which you can buy from their website, is $1,800 for a queen.

iv. Saatva

Saatva mattresses have been vetted by the chemically sensitive – a number of folks have reported that their foam seems to be very low in offgassing.

It does contain memory foam, which is usually higher in offgassing than standard polyurethane yet it still has good reviews.

Alternative Beds for the Chemically Sensitive

1. Buckwheat Hull Beds

Open Your Eyes Bedding sells organic cotton canvases and buckwheat hulls that you twist together yourself!

A mattress topper or pad may be needed for comfort.

You could fill the canvas with organic cotton batting, wool batt, Kapok, foam, or even recycled wool sweaters, and use the same twist system to make your own truly DIY chemical-free mattress.

What I like about this is it can be totally customized, as well as taken apart, washed, and refilled.

2. Cotton and Kapok Futons

Futons are more affordable than regular mattresses and often don’t use flame retardants. Look for organic cotton or wool filled. Avoid conventional (non-organic) cotton batting which still retains a lot of pesticide.

Look out for antimicrobial and even added pesticide treatments.

i. The Futon Shop is an obvious option for very affordable futons that many sensitive folks do well with. Starting at about $300.

ii. Rawganique has 100% organic cotton futons as well as cotton and wool. The company focuses on reducing chemical processing as much as possible.

iii. Zafu kapok fiber futons are really cool. They don’t compact as much as cotton and wool batting. They have an organic cotton cover, with eco wool and kapok fiber. This brand came recommended by sensitive folks.

3. Silk Mattresses

I have seen silk-filled mattresses in the past, though they are hard to locate. They may be good if you cannot tolerate cotton, wool, hemp, kapok, or latex.

Silk mattress toppers or pads are easier to find, and you could build them up to make a mattress.

This silk comforter from Allergy Buyers Club has a silk encasement (not cotton).

You can find them on Amazon or Allergy Buyers Club.

4. Cotton Sleeping Mat

This organic cotton mat by Dream Designs in Canada is thin but may be enough for some people who need a simple solution. It was recommended by someone extremely sensitive.

The futon companies above also make simple sleeping mats.

5. Hammock

An organic cotton hammock is a simple option that does work well for some folks.

A good brand that is clean and healthy is La Siesta. Try the undyed organic cotton if you want the purest option.

A metal hammock stand works well with many models (no trees necessary).

6. Camping Beds to Use Indoors

i. Camping Cots

For a quick and easy solution, maybe a camping cot will do!

Let it offgas a bit first. The plus side is there is not much to offgas there, so some time in the sun should do it.

ii. Camping Pads/Mats

Camping mats can be used inside regular housing for those wanting a simple solution, or for those with trouble tolerating regular beds.

They may also be needed high moisture locations like tents, trailers/RVs, and shelters.

a. Closed Cell Camping Mat

For sleeping pads, the most basic type is closed-cell foam.

This aluminized Thermarest is considered the most tolerable of the camping mats. I found it really good and very easy to clean.

They have non aluminized versions as well.

b. Open Cell Polyurethane Self Inflating Mat

I use the most deluxe Thermarest – the 10 cm thick Mondoking (it has polyurethane it in). I find it very comfortable.

It takes a bit of time in the sun to offgas, but many MCSers can use these. I used it after two days in the sun. After a week it was ideal for me.

Setting up a camping cot inside

The general consensus for those with sore backs or who need the most comfort is a Thermarest on top of a camping cot.

Though with the MondoKing, most people likely don’t need a camping cot under it (though I would raise it or put a waterproof cover on it).

Thermarest claims to be flame-retardant-free.

For a more permanent setup, the MondoKing fits into this inexpensive Amazon Zinus Daybed.

iii. Polyester Fill Mat

Another type of simple sleeping mat is a Nufoam polyester fiber mat.

This may be more tolerable than the camping pads that have polyurethane foam in them.

Plus polyester does much better with moisture than cotton, wool, and other natural fibers.

This is ideal for an RV.

iv. Airbeds

a. TPU Airbed

This phthalate and PVC-free TPU air bed by Lightspeed comes highly recommended by many chemically sensitive folks.

This is the alternative to PVC and foam mats.

I found it offgassed in 2 days. Which is faster than many types of beds with more material inside.

b. Polyester Airbed

Another PVC-free airbed is this polyester bed from Intex. Some tolerate polyester better than TPU.

How to Prevent Mold in Mattresses

how to avoid mould in and under mattress

In any house or trailer, tiny or big, make sure your mattress can breathe underneath (slats or box springs are used for a reason). Only certain types of beds like an air mattress may be able to go straight on the floor.

When building a tiny house, find a way to incorporate slats under your bed. I see too many tiny houses with the mattress on a solid floor. This is not a good solution if you want your bed to stay mold-free.

The picture above is my loft. The slats are built right into the loft. It works great!

When camping, I do think a waterproof cover is the best idea, in a trailer you may be able to use something simple like this Hypervent for airflow, though I have heard that this does not create enough airflow in many situations.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Non-Toxic Paint for Wood (Toys, Furniture, Floors)

February 15, 2021 by Corinne 9 Comments

The type of non-toxic paint you will choose for wood depends on how durable you need it to be, how safe you need it to be (is it going in a child’s mouth for example), what kind of wood it is, and what kind of paint or stain is on it already.

Some of the paints are all-natural and totally child-safe and food-safe, others are perfectly healthy to handle and be around if they are not going in anyone’s mouth.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Non-Toxic Paint for Wooden Toys

1. All Natural Milk Paint

Milk Paint is the most obvious first choice for wooden toys. It’s the only 100% natural paint and it is the safest choice.

It’s made of milk protein (casein), limestone, clay (in some brands), chalk, and natural pigments. It comes in a powder and you mix it yourself with water.

It’s very easy to apply this to raw wood, and that is the best application for this paint.

The Real Milk contains no clay but it does contain titanium dioxide and iron oxides. The green colors contain Chromium (III) which probably wouldn’t leave it Toy Safe (depending on real-life leachability and durability of the topcoat). The topcoat would likely be enough protection, but their paints are not tested (with or without topcoats).

Old Fashioned Milk Paint has tested its product against Toy Safe Standard EN-71 in Europe. Not all colors passed the metal leaching tests (whites and blues did not make the cut). The following colors are certified safe: Scarlett (red), Marigold yellow, Mustard, Pumpkin, Salem Red, Barn Red, Bayberry Green, Tavern Green, Lexington (dark green), and Pitch Black.

If the wood already has a finish on it, I would likely skip Milk Paint. If it needs to be primed with an acrylic bond coat it defeats the purpose of going with a non-acrylic paint (just use a conventional paint in that case).

It requires a topcoat to be durable in any way to water otherwise the finish is quickly ruined.

Top Coats for Milk Paint

If you are painting toys you almost certainly want an all-natural and completely food-safe topcoat.

Natural Oils

You can use any of the drying oils which do form a film that makes it durable to water and cleanable.

Tung oil is the most durable of the organic drying oils (just be sure to give it the full 30 days to cure). Hemp oil and walnut oil are not quite as waterproof but the odors are milder.

The oils darken the Milk Paint and cause the colors to lose some vibrancy.

Natural Shellac Resin

Shellac is a food-safe resin that is even used to coat some foods. It’s a resin from a beetle and when dissolved in alcohol it can be used as a wood coating.

Zinsser has said their shellac formulas are not food safe. If you wanted a purist option you can buy the flakes and mix them with Everclear alcohol.

Of course, the real purist option would be to not paint the wood at all, and just use the all-natural drying oils and/or shellac.

2. Non-Toxic Acrylic Paints

ECOS Paints and other acrylic paints can be used on toys as well. Once these paints are cured (at two weeks). ECOS Paints are EN-71 certified for use on children’s toys.

If you don’t mind the shiny look you can always put a protective coat of shellac over paint.

3. Non-Toxic Latex Paint

Farrow and Ball is a extremely low odor and low VOC paint, even when wet. This is a non-acrylic latex paint. It is certified Toy Safe.

Non-Toxic Paint for Wooden Furniture

When painting furniture it doesn’t need to be as food-safe as toys. There are a few more options.

1. Milk Paint

You can still use Milk Paint on raw wood, with an oil or shellac topcoat as above.

You could also put a hardy water-based coating over it (either acrylic or polyurethane), like ECOS acrylic coating or AFM Safecoat polyurethane.

It would be easier to use an acrylic paint in my opinion, if it’s a high wear use item.

2. Chalked Paint

Chalked Paint is also a very low toxin ultra-low VOC option. The benefit of using Chalked Paint is it can prime over many other finishes. It is still a good idea to sand a little bit even though technically you don’t have to.

This is helpful if you need to go over a natural oil finish, oil-based paint, or unknown varnish. I have not yet found something this can’t go over.

You do need a top coat to make this durable. Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is another brand that I like a lot.

3. ECOS Zero-VOC Paint

No-VOC acrylic paint is another option for bare wood or previously painted wood.

Raw Wood

On raw wood you can prime with Lullaby Furniture Primer, followed by their Semi-Gloss or Gloss Paint.

If you need extra durability, you can use another clear coat sealer over top like AFM Polyureseal BP on interior furniture or AFM Safecoat EXT for exterior furniture.

If the furniture is made of pine (like IKEA dressers and beds), use ECOS Stain Blocking Primer to prevent bleed-through of the tannins before painting.

Previously Painted Furniture

If the furniture was painted with water-based paint (or has a water-based polyurethane) you can paint over with ECOS water-based paint in most cases with some light sanding.

If you are going over oil-based paint you can use ECOS Universal Primer first to transition it to water-based paint.

Non-Toxic Paint for Wooden Panel Walls

I have a slightly different list for walls, first because in some cases it’s a good idea to keep the walls breathable, and second because wall paint doesn’t usually need to be as durable as furniture paint.

1. Milk Paint

You can use Milk Paint on walls. If it’s raw wood then I would consider it since it takes well to raw wood. If it’s previously painted wood I would not consider it.

You can add Outdoor Additive to decrease tannin leaching and discoloration from knots.

You do need to think about the work of adding a topcoat like oil to the walls which is wiped on and wiped off on top of multiple coats of Milk Paint.

2. Chalked Paint

If you don’t need the walls to be scrubbable, Chalked Paint is more durable than Milk Paint.

You need one or two coats. But again, if a topcoat/sealer is needed it would probably not be worth it.

3. RomaBio Mineral Paint

RomaBio EcoDomus Matte is my first choice for raw wood paneling. If you use the Matte that is the primer and the paint over raw wood.

You can probably do two coats total and be done.

It’s wipeable and breathable. This paint is a mineral (silicate-based) paint and is zero-VOC.

4. Acrylic Paint

You can of course use a more conventional paint like Farrow and Ball or ECOS Paints which are both low odor paints that are the healthiest of the water-based paints.

Non-Toxic Paint for Hardwood Floors

1. Farrow and Ball

Farrow and Ball brand is a very low odor paint. They make a floor primer. Their Modern Eggshell line is then used on top of that.

This paint does contain methylisothiazolinone as the preservative.

This works well for wood floors. Make sure to read all info on substrate prep on their website.

You can buy this paint via their website or in local stores.

2. ECOS Paints

ECOS Paints Floor Paint is formulated for wood and concrete floors. I love ECOS Paints, it’s usually my top pick of paint brand.

They disclose all of their ingredients and they don’t use methylisothiazolinone. It’s zero-VOC at 14 days.

You can order this paint from their website, they ship to everywhere in the US as well as to Canada and Mexico.

Over pine floors you can use the Sanding Sealer first (then sand), then ECOS Universal Primer, followed by two coats of their Floor Paint.

3. AFM Safecoat

AFM Safecoat Concrete Floor Paint is an acrylic paint with PVA. It’s mostly used on concrete floors, but there are some conditions in which you can use it on wood.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Pillows, Sheets, & Blankets for the Chemically Sensitive

January 29, 2021 by Corinne Leave a Comment

Pillows

Organic Pillow Fills

Wool and Cotton

For pillows, you generally want natural fibers like wool or organic cotton.

When I was highly sensitive I needed to open pillows up and wash the cotton.

Organic cotton batting sometimes still retains a strong smell from the oils of the cotton plant. Some of them have a zipper, so you can pull out the cotton batting easily.

Never use non-organic cotton batting, if you are avoiding chemicals, as the batts retain a lot of the pesticide.

Alternatives to Wool and Cotton

Healthy pillow fills also include down, kapok, buckwheat, bamboo and silk.

This silk pillow from Allergy Buyers Club is very pure, as some silk is coated in a surprising amount of chemicals.

I’m not a fan of latex pillows for the reasons outlined in the mattress section.

Synthetic Pillow Fill

Flexible Plastic

I like the Purple pillow, which is made of a type of flexible plastic grid that some very sensitive folks have reported to be safe and tolerable. I really like that it’s cleanable.

Polyester

I do like polyester as well, even though it’s not natural, because it’s more moisture-resistant than cotton. I don’t find it very toxic, though sometimes it has chemical residue on it.

I use this polyester filled pillow, which needs to be washed or aired out before use. Polyester is also referred to as “down alternative”.

Natural Polyester

PLA is a type of polyester made from plant starch that is a healthier option than standard polyester.

Naturepedic has a really good brand of PLA filled pillows that are not treated with chemicals.

You can find them on Amazon as well as their website.

Sheets

Organic Cotton

Coyuchi makes organic sheets, pillows, and other bedding that is made with the chemically sensitive person in mind.

You can find them on Amazon as well as through their website.

I highly recommend this company. They use natural dyes but the safest bet is always virgin (undyed) fabric. If you react to the product you can return it. I’ve been really happy with all their products.

Even with GOTS certified sheets I find they usually need one wash to get the smell out (probably the smell of cotton oils).

Those more sensitive than me like the brands Organics and More and Brooklinen.

Non-Organic Cotton

Cotton that has been processed into fabric (sheets, pillowcases, etc) no longer contains pesticides, in theory. But stay away from permanent pressed finish (wrinkle-free finish), and make sure the dyes are steadfast or all-natural.

Almost all cotton that is not organic has a chemical added to it that smells. Look for OEKO-TEX certified fabrics which is the best certification after GOTS.

Polyester

In a high moisture environment like a trailer, I use all polyester sheets and pillowcases instead of cotton.

Pillowcases

I use these affordable organic pillowcases.

Blankets

1. Wool Blankets

I use wool blankets from Coyuchi – the natural color with indigo stripes. It does have a wool smell, so if you are sensitive to wool try their cotton blankets.

I really like wool because it’s hard for me to stay at the right temperature at night without them.

The wool blankets were a super good investment in my case, as they stopped me from waking up throughout the night due to being too cold.

The wool blankets were a little difficult for me to wash though, I like these Pendelton washable wool blankets a lot too.

2. Cotton Blankets

I also tried these organic cotton blankets which I really liked when I was very chemically sensitive.

These are thick and take a long time to dry. Though I used to lug them everywhere with me while traveling.

Others more sensitive than me have really liked the blankets from Organics and More.

3. Polyester Blankets

When I became less chemically sensitive, I used polyester blankets for mold avoidance.

They are cheap! from Walmart or Amazon).

If you are chemically sensitive you can try to wash out the odor.

Bed Frames for the Chemically Sensitive

January 29, 2021 by Corinne Leave a Comment

This post covers bed frame options for the chemically sensitive. Metal and metal finishes, solid wood and laminated wood.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Metal Bedframes

A metal bed frame that is powder-coated is a very safe option.

This metal bed is inexpensive for a twin (Amazon).

Chrome is another benign metal as it has no coating on it.

Sometimes metal has a paint and not a powder-coated finish. Those are fairly safe as well, but for the extremely sensitive powder coated metal and chrome are safer.

You can paint metal with certain brands of safe paints or even seal it with shellac.

Solid Wood Bedframes

If you do well with wood, the purest option is a solid wood bed frame, with solid slats (not laminated slats), finished with a natural finish.

Many people who are chemically sensitive do best with low odor woods like poplar and maple.

Woods like pine are less well tolerated. My post on low odor woods looks at more species options.

You can seal in the odor of the wood as well as any possible contaminants with shellac.

Solid Wood Slats

For solid wood frames, check out Organic Grace which has simple frames for $780 (queen, ships from the US).

Savvy Rest makes a simple wood bed frame that can be finished in natural oils or 0-VOC water-based polyurethanes or can be left unfinished. It’s $800 for a queen.

Plywood Slats

Most solid wood beds are made with plywood (laminated wood) slats as it gives them stability with flex.

Amazon has a few options like this pine bed with plywood slats.

IKEA sells solid wood frames (pine) but the slats are laminated. They claim the glues are “non-volatile and non-polluting”.

If you want to stain or paint natural raw pine, know that this is a tricky wood to stain. Painting pine also requires more steps than other woods. You can also seal in the odor of the wood. My post on staining, painting and sealing pine goes into detail.

The post on furniture contains a longer list of companies making solid wood furniture with non-toxic finishes.

Low Odor Woods Used in Building and Furniture

January 13, 2021 by Corinne Leave a Comment

What Gives Wood its Odor?

The majority of the identified odorants in wood from one study were 1) fatty acid degradation products 2) terpenoic substances and 3) odorous substances resulting from the degradation of lignin. (Source)

1. Fatty acid degradation products (69% of the odor of wood!)

These include alkenals, ketones, alkylic acids and intramolecular esters.

Examples include pentanal, hexanal (grassy odors), octanal, nonanal, linalool (citrus-like odors), (E)-non-2-enal, (E,E)-nona-2,4-dienal (fatty odors), butanoic acid (cheese-like odors) and γ-octalactone, γ-nonalactone (coconut-like peach odors).

2. Terpenes (13% of the odor of wood)

Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons that are produced predominantly by plants.

Terpenes (and terpenoids) are the main constituents of the essential oils from plants – but the two are not interchangeable terms.

Examples of terpenes in wood include α-pinene, β-pinene, limonene, Δ3-carene, and camphene.

3. Phenyl compounds from lignin degradation (13% of the odor of wood)

Odor-active phenyl derivatives include vanillin, 3-phenylpropanoic acid, phenylacetic acid, p-cresol, and thymoquinone.

(Source)

The products from the breakdown of lignin and cellulose produce formaldehyde as a secondary compound. Source

Naturally Occurring Formaldehyde Levels in Wood

The natural formaldehyde content in wood is not the main factor that makes a wood species higher in odor.

One study found that the softwoods they examined had higher formaldehyde contents than the hardwoods.

There was also a difference between juvenile and mature wood.

The average formaldehyde values were:

Pine at 0.54 mg/100 g
Spruce at 0.47 mg/100 g
Oak at 0.36 mg/100 g
Beech at 0.27 mg/100 g
Poplar at 0.29 mg/100 g

(As a reference point, E1 allows formaldehyde at at least 20 x this with contents up to 8 mg/100 g or 0.1 ppm released. CARB II allows half that amount, so 10 x more than pine’s natural content).

Pine is known as a higher odor wood in general, with formaldehyde being just one volatile compound that the wood gives off.

Though the formaldehyde levels in oak are on the lower level, oak is still a relatively fragrant wood.

Source

Examples of Odorants Found In Trees/Wood

One study looked closely at pine. They found that in pine, the odorants (which include terpenes) are:

(E,E)-nona-2,4-dienal
vanillin
phenylacetic acid
3-phenylpropanoic acid
δ-octalactone
α-pinene

In fir wood the following terpenes have been identified:

α-pinene
β-pinene
limonene
Δ³-carene
camphene
β-phellandrene
myrcene

Woods That are Low Odor

Lowest Odor Woods

Maple and poplar are low odor woods that the chemical sensitive usually do the best with.

Aspen is a type of poplar (usually Populus tremuloides in North America) and so is also likely to be tolerable for many people.

Many find hickory to be low odor as well.

Birch works well for many chemically sensitive people too.

Medium Level Odor Woods

Oak is a somewhat fragrant wood when it is fresh (though not as much as cedar and pine). It’s higher in odor than most people think.

Those sensitive to wood odor vary in their ability to tolerate oak. In a poll of chemically sensitive folks, it ranked quite high on tolerability.

Walnut and cherry are also mildly aromatic. Because we are all so different there are some people who do better with walnut or cherry over the lower odor woods.

Woods That are High in Odor

Most Fragrant Woods

Among commonly used woods used in buildings in North America, cedar is the higest odor.

The most fragrant woods include cedar (varies species), Brazillian Rosewood, and Sandlewood. But you won’t find much Rosewood and Sandlewood in homes.

Next up as the most fragrant are pine, fir, and spruce. Pine, fir and spruce are commonly used as the woods in framing a home and in structural plywoods.

The Best Wood Species for Those with Chemical Sensitivities

Those with sensitivities to the natural odors and VOCs in wood vary greatly in which species we do well with.

Make sure to get samples of the woods so you can check them out for yourself.

Make sure the wood samples are relatively fresh. You will notice a big difference between wood that is more recently felled and cut and older wood.

I have received wood flooring samples that were old enough to have essentially lost their odor.

I have also received samples of solid wood flooring that had noticeably picked up odors from the hardware store, such as glues and other chemicals. Be sure to ask that the samples are coming from the same source as the final flooring.

Sealing in the Odor of Wood

For most people, a primer and a couple of coats of regular zero-VOC acrylic paint like ECOS will be enough to seal in the odor of wood.

If you are sealing pine be sure to use the tannin blocking primer so you don’t bleed through splotches.

You can also use clear coatings. AFM Acrylacq is good at blocking most of the smell.

Even better is shellac (you can make your own with flakes mixed with alcohol). But shellac is shiny and is a partial vapor barrier (it’s also not that great with water) so you are limited in where you can use it.

If it’s a wood floor then you generally don’t use acrylics (definitely not AFM Acrylacq on the floor). The UV cured polyurethane on “prefinished” hardwood floors is a great block of the odor.

If you need to finish the wood floors in house you have to make a compromise. You won’t get as good of a odor seal unless you use shellac as a finish. Shellac is not as durable as the factory finishes.

If you want a more conventional floor finish that still blocks odors then I would consider Earthpaint Nanotech, which is not as good of a seal of odor as shellac or the factory finish but is better than most floor finishes.

The higher gloss the finish the more of a block you will get.

a banner advertising posters for sale. it says "20 printable posters for a healthy jobsite, buy here" it shows examples of 4 posters. click anywhere on the banner to go to the store to buy it.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Sources:

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-odor/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6268138 https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-26626-8 https://www.researchgate.net/publication/235664413_Wood-borne_formaldehyde_varying_with_species_wood_grade_and_cambial_age

A Guide to Non-Toxic Sealers, Stains and Varnishes

January 12, 2021 by Corinne 227 Comments

Updated Fall 2021

This post is my overview post on sealers.

I’m starting with oil sealers for wood because these are the only totally pure and natural options. Natural waxes are sometimes used with oil finishes and so those follow.

But what about if you want to add a stain to the wood? Onto looking at both non-toxic water-based wood stains and natural oil stain finishes.

Then an overview of clear zero-VOC water-based wood varnishes – some of these are durable enough for floors and others are only for furniture or walls.

Cabinet paints are next. A notoriously difficult surface that needs a smooth and durable coating without added toxins or VOCs.

Another way of looking at sealers is not just as a protector against water and stains but to seal in an offending chemical or odor. An overview of those sealers is included.

Next are exterior sealants, a category that is almost always higher in VOCs than their interior counterparts, these are the healthier options.

Lastly, an overview of stone and concrete sealers and where you can use each of the non-toxic brands in this category.

I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission through affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

1. Natural Non-Toxic Wood Sealers

i. Natural Oil Wood Finishes

Rubio Monocoat on floors by @wdflooring
@fourboardwoodworks flooring & installation
@thomashartshelby photography

Linseed, tung, refined hemp, soy, and walnut oil are all-natural oils that on their own can be used to seal and protect wood. They are called drying oils.

Drying oils penetrate, harden and preserve wood – providing a long-lasting finish that does not turn rancid.

Coconut oil if refined can be used on wood and won’t go rancid. But it’s not a drying oil, meaning it won’t polymerize and form a durable coating (source).

I wouldn’t recommend using olive or other (non-drying) oils because those can go rancid on wood.

Linseed and Tung Oil

natural non-toxic linseed tried and true

Linseed Oil and Tung Oil are the traditional natural finishing oils for wood. These are the two toughest natural oil finishes, with tung oil being the toughest.

Although they are natural, legally no-VOC, and technically non-toxic, they do offgas aldehydes (and other compounds), which can be bothersome for the chemically sensitive.

I review tung and linseed in detail in their own dedicated post. That includes a look at Rubio Monocoat and Odies Oil.

I look at additives including possible metals, chemicals added, as well as which compounds they offgas and when they fully cure.

Linseed and/or tung are often labeled as “teak oil” or “danish oil”, though this is a general term that can mean either it’s pure or mixed with additives, as I go over in the post on these oils.

Hemp Oil Finish

Hemp Oil is often my top choice for an all-natural drying oil for wood due to how mild and safe the odor is.

It does have a light aroma, which I would consider pleasant. I would test for your own sensitivities (and allergies) by buying a small amount first.

Hemp oil is the only ingredient in the Milk Paint Company and the Homestead House brands.

I used the Milk Paint brand and was happy with it. If you order it directly through their website you can get 10% off with code mychemicalfreehouse.

I used hemp oil on all the interior wood in my chemical-free tiny home – floors, stairs, interior door, and window sills. The ladder to the loft did get grimy, though the dirt did wipe off easily.

It’s not the most durable of the wood finishes compared to some more conventional options, and it’s not the most durable drying oil for floors but I was very happy with it.

Tung oil is the most durable, followed by linseed oil. If you do well with those oils, they are better suited for hardwood floors.

Make sure it’s refined hemp oil (made for a wood finish) as opposed to the edible oil from the grocery store.

This finish is certainly one of the safest and healthiest options for wooden toys, butcher block countertops, and other food-safe surfaces.

Walnut Oil

Walnut Oil, another drying oil, is used on surfaces like concrete countertops, raw slate, non-glossy marble and granite, soapstone, sandstone, and onyx.

I tested the Milk Paint walnut oil and the odor is very mild, even lighter than hemp. I was extremely happy with its performance on stones.

I go through sealing various stone types more in the countertop post.

You certainly can use it on wood, but it’s not as durable as the above oils, so it’s best suited to cutting boards, toys, bookshelves, etc.

You can buy Milk Paint walnut oil on Amazon or on their website. You can use code mychemicalfreehouse for 10% off on the website.

Rosewood Oil

Another oil to check out is Penofin Verde which is Brazilian rosewood oil mixed with other natural oils. They use “vegetable ester solvents” and I would expect a solvent odor and offgassing here.

Oils need to be reapplied to wood every few years or more in high traffic areas.

For information on using natural drying oils on stones (which ones work to protect stone and which ones can discolor them), see my post where I test them all.

ii. Natural Wax Wood Sealers

Beeswax & Carnauba Wax

Wood can then be finished with a beeswax polish for extra durability. Beeswax takes 30 days to fully dry.

I used beeswax on my window sills over the hemp oil to provide a more water-resistant finish and I was really happy with it.

It also works well on counters, cutting boards, and toys.

This Beeswax/Carnauba Polish works well but does have mineral spirits in it. Mineral spirits do evaporate quite quickly and leave the product once cured. I haven’t found odorless mineral spirits to be a very toxic ingredient.

Hemp and beeswax mixed together make a great food-grade finish for cutting boards and other items. I like Fusion brand which is 100% hemp and beeswax with no additives.

Walnut oil with carnauba wax works great as well. I have used this brand on stone and wood.

Wax usually needs to be re-applied every year.

Natural Shellac Resin

Shellac is a resin, and one of my top picks for many different purposes.

Shellac, in the purest version, is just the natural flakes of the resin produced by a beetle, and alcohol.

You can purchase flakes from www.shellac.net or Amazon.

Shellac can be used on many indoor surfaces, including floors, toys, and furniture.

Natural, de-waxed shellac, would be the purest choice for most projects. It does come in a synthetic formula as well, so be sure to check which type it is. Regular (waxed) would be used for some applications.

If you want to buy it ready-made, Zinsser makes one they claim is only shellac and alcohol. (If it’s not available on Amazon, try Walmart)

I discuss this more in the posts on sealing in toxins since this finish is great at sealing in offgassing and odors.

Oils for Earthen Floor Finishes

If you don’t have oxblood on hand, no problem, you can seal your earthen floor with any of the hardening oils we talked about under wood finishes.

I would use Hemp Oil, though a final coat of linseed and possibly wax, may be needed to get it to hard enough. I did find that to be the case on a project I worked on.

Beeswax can also be used in the final coat for extra protection if desired.

iii. Natural Non-Toxic Wood Stains

Natural Oil Wood Stains

Each oil in the section above will tint the wood to some degree, so you should test for the look you want to achieve – you might find that you don’t need a stain at all.

Or you may need a stain to lighten it!

If you do want a stain I prefer the oil and stain in one options:

1. Rubio Monocoat

Rubio is a low odor modified linseed oil finish with many color options. We don’t know a lot about what’s in it other than (modified) linseed and wax. It’s significantly lower odor than pure linseed. It does have a drier, the Part B which smells like a solvent. You can use it without Part B. I have used it and review it in more detail in this post.

It comes in 40 different colors including lightening shades like greys and whites.

They claim zero-VOC, though the MSDS does indicate some VOCs.

I really like this brand for both low odor, performance, and color options.

2. Tried and True

Tried and True premixed oil and pigment stains went on beautifully. I tested the Java color on oak.

This is pure polymerized linseed and pigment, nothing else added. This is the most natural option, with no solvents or additives.

It comes in 5 darkening shades. This is my top choice if you want something pure and don’t need many color options.

Legally linseed is zero-VOC, but it does give off natural volatile compounds. I do a deep review of linseed and tung oil in a dedicated post.

4. Osmo

A well-known worldwide brand, OSMO stains alone are low odor but they are meant to be used with the top coat of Polyox Oil.

Polyox oil contains sunflower, soya and thistle oil, with waxes, including paraffin, plus de-aromatized white spirits, siccatives, and polysiloxanes. They declare all of their ingredients.

The Polyox oil had a very noticeable solvent odor for me, the majority of that odor did flash off somewhat quickly but the general odor did take more time than I expected to go down. I would not consider this low enough in toxins for me to use.

I did really like the stain colors though. The Wood Wax comes in bright colors (along with the usual wood stain colors and greys and white) which would be fun for art and toys.

The Oil Stain, which is for floors, comes in 10 colors including lightening shades.

They claim very low VOCs.

I would put WOCA finishes in this same category of solvent enhanced natural oil based finishes. (I personally would not use WOCA or OSMO).

Water-Based Non-Toxic Wood Stains

The truly non-toxic water-based wood stains are more difficult to apply than the oil-based ones. A water-based stain that does not contain ammonia (the safest kind for the chemically sensitive to apply) is the most finicky type of stain to work with.

If a water-based stain advertises that they don’t raise the grain then it can be assumed to contain ammonia.

1. ECOS Paints stains

ECOS makes the most tolerable finishes in my view. The stains come in 14 different shades (one grey one) and a clear coat of varnish follows.

This was highly tolerable for me when I was at my most sensitive. They also have tinted varnishes.

All of their ingredients are fully declared. These are acrylic-based, which is usually more tolerable than polyurethane.

2. AFM Durotone

A recently improved formula from a popular brand for the chemically sensitive.

It comes in 11 colors including one lightening shade.

A top coat is required, either water-based or oil.

If you are staining pine, that wood is notoriously tricky, see my dedicated post on sealers for pine.

iv. Clear Water-Based Wood Sealers

1. ECOS varnishes, which are acrylic-based, are super low toxin. In my experience, they are not as durable as the polyurethane alternatives.

I used ECOS sealer on the wood in my kitchen and I was very happy with it. I have not had problems with water marks, but I would not use this on the floors. I would use this on items that don’t require a super durable finish, like wood paneling or bookshelves.

I find this to be a very tolerable brand that I was able to apply myself at a time when I could hardly tolerate any coatings. My post where I test and compare the water-based finishes is here.

2. AFM Polyureseal is liked by many. It is a very tolerable formula by a high-quality brand. This brand is a durable low toxin polyurethane finish for hardwood floors.

3. Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey was my top choice for a durable coating that holds up well on floors and was very low odor. It has the best combo of durable and low odor that I have found.

4. Very low odor polyurethane and acrylic also include, BioShield Aqua Resin, Earthpaint Aqualine and Easy Safe 1K, and Vermeisteer. I compare them all in a dedicated post.

I tested and compared all of the clear wood finishes – the full post is here.

5. Danish Soap finish. An unusual non-toxic way to finish floors is a Danish process using soap as the finish. You can either use just soap, or soap and lye. Lye is quite toxic while it’s reacting, and I don’t know how long that takes to dissipate.

When used in the making of soap the lye reacts with other components and in the end, you just have a safe soap product.

PS If you are looking for a clear sealant to seal paint (whether to make it glossier, more durable to wear and tear, or more waterproof) this post on paint sealers covers that topic.

v. Non-Toxic Kitchen Cabinet Finishes

Clear Finish for Cabinets:

AFM Acrylacq is a clear alternative to conventional lacquer. It is acrylic and siloxane. You can get a matte look by using 2 coats of gloss finished with a coat of matte. Or you can use the gloss or satin. AFM is my top choice in this category. VOC 93 g/l.

AFM Poly BP This is a polyurethane finish (with a little bit of acrylic). This is another durable finish for cabinets. VOC 93 g/l. You can also use their exterior version of polyurethane called EXT.

EarthPaint Easy Safe 1k or NanoTech Clear.

Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey Floor Finish can be used on cabinets. These are polyurethanes that are partially naturally derived. I like this brand for a great mix of durability and low odor.

Water-based cabinet finishes are not as durable as lacquer. However, lacquer needs to be professionally applied and is toxic until cured.

My detailed testing of these brands can be found here.

Natural Oil Finish for Cabinets:

Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus for furniture comes in a lot of cool colors. It is easy to touch up and has been reported to work well on cabinets. If you don’t mind the natural linseed oil and some unknowns with the formula, I really like the quality of this finish. I would be tempted myself to use this on cabinets because this finish is so easy to retouch (something that other non-toxic cabinet finishes cannot claim).

Paints that are suitable for cabinets are found here.

vi. Sealing in Toxins

Sealing in Fungicides

If you are buying new wood-framed windows, the wood will likely have been treated with fungicides and should be sealed with AFM Safe Seal, AFMTransitional Primer, or Zinsser Shellac.

This version of shellac from Zinsser claims that the only ingredients are shellac and alcohol. That’s one you can find at Walmart as well as Amazon. You can also mix the flakes yourself with Everclear alcohol.

Sealing in Formaldehyde

AFM Safeseal is used to seal in formaldehyde in engineered wood products.

You can also use shellac which is one of the best sealers to seal in odors and VOCs, including formaldehyde.

I have tested these side by side on formaldehyde offgassing, they both performed very well. Shellac beats Safeseal.

Safeseal is made with acrylic polymers. It works quite well.

Sealing in Wood Odor/Terpenes

Clear-Coat Options

Shellac is the best sealer for sealing in the odor of wood. Depending on where the wood is, you may need to go over that with another sealer that can take water better.

That shellac is dewaxed, it’s thinner, but it’s easier to paint or coat over. You can go over dewaxed shellac with AFM Acrylacq.

Acrylacq can also be used on its own. The vendors estimate that it seals in the odor on its own by about 80-90%.

Painted Options

Paint on its own also seals in a good amount of wood odor and is usually sufficient for most sensitive folks.

Paints with good sealing properties include AFM Safecoat Paint. Higher gloss options seal in more. This is a better seal than other “green” brands like ECOS, but all acrylic paint seals wood odor to some degree.

Adding their transitional primer will be an even better seal.

The other option is to use shellac followed by paint. I like Bullseye (waxed) shellac followed by Annie Sloan Chalk Paint or Rustoleum Chalked.

For more on this topic, see my posts on Sealing in New Offgassing and Sealing in Fragrance, Smoke, and Related Chemicals.

vii. Exterior Wood Sealers

Natural Oils

To protect exterior wood like decks, siding, fences, and outdoor furniture against the elements, you could use more potent oils than you might use inside – oils based on linseed oil or tung oil are durable.

Rubio Monocoat Exterior Oil, like the interior oil, is linseed oil based but doesn’t declare all of its ingredients. I was quite happy with it.
AFM Penetrating Oil is made from polymerized linseed oil, organic flaxseed oil, isoaliphate, modified soybean oil, hemp oil, carboxylate metallic salts of calcium, manganese & zirconium.
I like Milk Paint Company tung oil, pine oil and zinc called Outdoor Defense Oil. It contains no other additives. If you do well with tung and pine oil, this could work for you.

Water-Based Sealants

Vermont Natural Coatings Exterior PolyWhey is the best of the water-based synthetic coatings and it can hold up as well as a toxic sealant on decks and other outdoor wood.
AFM has a new exterior clear sealer called Polyureseal EXT which is an acrylic/polyurethane. It can be used on outdoor furniture. It can be applied to raw wood or wood stained with Safecoat wood stains, and concrete or previously painted surfaces that are properly prepared.

For more options and details on these sealants see my dedicated post on deck, fence, and outdoor furniture stains and sealers.

2. Non-Toxic Tile, Concrete & Stone Sealers

i. Stone, Concrete and Brick Sealers

For a detailed look at concrete floor finishes, see thi s dedicated post.

1. AFM Mexeseal is a surface coating for masonry/stone. It is for unpolished marble, limestone, granite, sandstone, slate, fireclay (brick, tile, terra cotta, pavers), and concrete. Mostly for honed stones – though it can work on some polished stone (you would have to test it). Good for slate floors, and concrete floors. In sum, use on porous interior tile or masonry surfaces where oil and water repellency are desired. Not for use outside. Not for interior showers. The product is polyurethane and acrylic. Very low VOC.

2. ECOS sealer/stain is for concrete, masonry, brickwork, and plaster. They make a solid color concrete sealer and semi-transparent concrete sealer. These are acrylic coatings with a little bit of silicone in there.

3. ECOS clear sealer is acrylic, just like the stains with pigment. You can use it on concrete floors.

4. AFM Penetrating Water Stop (zero-VOC) for porous, mineral containing surfaces such as brick, pavers, concrete block, and other cementitious materials, stone, and stucco. I used it on my concrete bathroom tiles and on the clay plaster in my kitchen. The only components listed on the SDS are silicone and lye. This product does not create a film on top of the surface, it is like a densifier.

6. AFM Watershield is a clear, penetrating sealer that repels water, grease, and oils. For use on porous surfaces such as concrete, stucco, brick, and stone. This can be used over American Clay Plaster. This can also be used outdoors on vertical wood surfaces e.g. under eaves that are raw wood or those stained with water-based stains such as AFM Durotone. Not for use on decks or horizontal fence railing. This is an acrylic sealant so it will be at least in part, a surface coating.

7. Milk Paint Soapstone Sealer is walnut oil and beeswax. It works well on interior soapstone, concrete, raw slate, honed marble, granite, sandstone, and onyx. You can buy this from the Milk Paint store and Amazon. I have used this sealer on many stone surfaces and I have been really happy with it. It’s all-natural and low odor. It needs some time to cure, but all natural oils do. You can get 10% off with the code mychemicalfreehouse.

8. Hemp Oil is also a drying oil, and like walnut oil, it does work on most stone and concrete (as well as wood). It can change the color of some stones, so test it first. It passed my tests, but it can yellow or green just a little, depending on the base color of the stone. It’s for interior use.

9. Metacreme is a synthetic water-based low odor sealer for natural stones and concrete. I have tested this one on stone countertops and found it quite good. It has a chemical odor that is fairly mild. It works on marble, in wet areas, and goes over the grout as well. This could be used on light-colored stone countertops if walnut oil is changing the color of stone too much, though in my tests it did not hold up as well as the oil.

10. Acri-soy is a concrete sealer that can also be used on stone as well. This is an acrylic made from natural sources. This page explains what that means. This is a nice concrete floor finish (more in my post on concrete floors).

11. Tung oil also makes a good finish for concrete and many stones. It can be used on concrete floors and birdbaths as well. It is often preferable to other oils in outdoor conditions. The odor is higher than the other natural oils and even the synthetic sealers (I review the offgassing odors of tung and linseed in a dedicated post). Though some might prefer this oil and not be bothered by the natural odor. Tung oil forms a very durable film.

For a detailed look at my testing of natural sealers on stone surfaces see my dedicated post.

ii. Concrete-Based Grout Sealer

For sealing grout there are a number of good options, I discuss grout sealers options in my post on grout and thinset.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

How to Stain Pine (With Non-Toxic Products)

January 11, 2021 by Corinne 3 Comments

Pine is one of the most difficult woods to stain. It is not often stained because the wood does not take most stains evenly, and when it is done it’s not usually a DIY project!

To really provide a conventional-looking stained look on pine most woodworkers use a dye (not a stain), and likely an alcohol soluble one. There are then a few more steps to get the final look.

Here are some more DIY friendly and eco-friendly ways to stain, paint, seal and finish pine.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

1. A DIY Stained Look on Pine

There is another option for staining pine which is far more user-friendly and is non-toxic too.

Natural oils with integrated pigments work for staining pine.

Rubio Monocoat (RMC)

RMC is a natural-based linseed oil plus stain in one.

You still get some variation in color. And it does matter which species pine you are using. Be sure to talk with Rubio Monocoat to get specific advice.

When you click on their website you can see some examples of which colors will work on pine. In the Gallary click on pine to see some real project results.

I like the tiger-striped look that you get with the Black color but be sure to make samples (you can buy sample sizes and the full sizes on Amazon or via their website).

I would say that talking with the company is required when staining a difficult wood like pine.

Linseed has some naturally occurring VOCs and we don’t know everything that is in Rubio Monocoat, however after my deep dive into this product I still use and recommend it.

Sealing Over an Oil Based Stain

Over that, you could put Zinsser Bullseye Shellac if you want to seal in odors of the linseed and/or of the pine itself (for those who are super sensitive to these natural odors). (Also available via Walmart).

Though shellac is rarely used on floors as it’s not an ideal finish for anything that gets wet a lot, it can be used on some wooden items like some furniture or toys.

Other than this optional (but unusual) step to seal in odors for those who are extremely sensitive, you do not normally add anything over Rubio.

2. A DIY Painted Look on Pine

If you want a really even finish on pine, you should probably go for a painted look.

First, A Stain Blocking Primer

Pine requires a stain-blocking primer – this is needed to block the natural tannins from bleeding through.

Usually, BIN Shellac is used here, but this is too high in VOCs for most chemically sensitive people. That is their white paint/primer version.

Shellac in it’s more pure version can also be used, which is just natural shellac wax and alcohol.

Zinsser Sanding Sealer is used as a safe and healthy stain-blocking primer but some zero-VOC paint brands make primers too.

Stain Blocking Acrylic Primer

You can use an eco-friendly stain-blocking primer then over that you can use ECOS non-toxic paints.

This is the easiest way to go if you are painting pine with eco-friendly products.

You will get a good block of the pine odor this way as well (both with shellac as the prime coat or stain blocking primer), if that is part of your goal.

ECOS is a good 0-VOC paint.

Using Chalk Paint

The other way to get the painted look would be to use Zinsser Shellac and then chalk paint.

The lowest toxicity chalk paint in my experience is Annie Sloan. You can go to their website and choose a stockist there to find where to buy it.

It’s a very low odor paint, it’s lower in VOCs (in my experience) than regular acrylic wall paint.

If you want a chalk paint that is less expensive and easier to source, Rustoleum Chalked has similar performance. It costs a lot less and you can buy it on Amazon or Walmart.

It’s not a washable surface, so be sure to read my post about chalk paint. I’m a huge fan of this paint for what it can do and how safe it is to use.

3. A Clear Finish for Pine

There are lots of non-toxic options for clear finishes on pine. It’s still best to seal the knots with Zinsser Sanding Sealer to prevent bleed out.

Then you can go over that with a low-VOC polyurethane or acrylic finish.

Depending on what the item is that you are sealing, I like AFM PolyBP (quite durable and works on floors too), AFM Acrylacq (for furniture and molding), ECOS for an all acrylic option, works well on furniture, not durable for the floors in my experience.

If you would like to look at more clear finish/varnish options I have a post where I tested and compared all of the eco-friendly brands.

If you are extremely sensitive, you can contact me to help figure out which finishes might be best for you.

Alcohol-Based Finishes

Zinsser Bullseye shellac can be used if you want to block the pine-y smell of the wood and are not using another clear coat over it.

Shellac is not known for taking lots of water well so it’s rarely used on floors anymore. This version (the Bullseye) is also the most difficult to paint or seal over (though you can go over it with Chalk Paint).

It has a slight sweet smell for about 24-48 hours but you can bring it in as soon as it feels dry. Shellac is very safe it’s basically just alcohol and the natural resin from the beetle.

The Zinsser SealCoat can be coated over more easily with a clear finish (like polyurethane, or with special primers).

Natural Oil Finishes

You can use a drying oil as the final finish on pine. Tung oil is the most durable of the natural oils (this one is totally pure with no additives or solvents).

Linseed oil is the next most durable option (Tried and True is a rare pure version).

Other less pungent oils work as sealers but are less durable to wear and tear and scrubbing. I have used hemp oil and walnut oil and I like both of those finishes as well.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 7 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!