Pesticide manufacturer labels or safety data sheets (SDS) identify decontaminants such as chlorine bleach, caustic soda (lye), or lime.
But there are limitations to that data, they do not show the degradation rate or if there are potentially toxic byproducts that could form during decontamination.
Plus using lye and lime to clean is usually not practical for actual cleaning needs and they can’t be used on many surfaces.
I have reviewed the studies on decontamination and remediation of residential pesticides to find some cleaning methods that would work in real homes.
Dr. Mudgal has reviewed this information to show which products create byproducts with which pesticides and the more detailed version of this article is in Substack.
1. Surfactants
While surfactants on their own are not enough to fully eliminate pesticides, they are a good start and they can be used in combination with other chemicals.
My post on degreasers covers the strongest industrial formulas that are still non-toxic.
This strategy does not produce a chemical reaction so it should not produce any byproducts.
It’s a safe way to start to reduce the pesticide load.
2. Hydrogen Peroxide
In one study, hydrogen peroxide effectively degraded some pesticides but not others.
There is a byproduct produced with one pesticide, though it’s not necessarily more dangerous than the pesticide itself. We look at that in Sustack.
3. Bleach
In the same study, they also tested out full-strength bleach.
Bleach effectively reduced the levels and broke down all of the tested pesticides except for carbaryl.
They used a long contact time (18 hours) for both hydrogen peroxide and bleach. (source)
They used full-strength bleach, which is technically not recommended by manufacturers.
There is one pesticide that should never be cleaned up with bleach as the byproducts are serious. Dr. Mudgal reviews that in Substack.
4. Bacteria and Enzymes
In another study, bacteria and enzymes were tested for their ability to break down and biodegrade pesticides.
They were tested in soil and water, not in real-life conditions of a home, so keep that in mind because it changes things.
Among the strains tested, bacteria that belong to the genera Bacillus, Brevibacillus, Ochrobactrum, Pseudomonas, Serratia, and Sphingobium “were found to be very metabolically active microorganisms that are capable of degrading various pyrethroids”.
A few pyrethroid-degrading enzymes have been documented: carboxylase from B. cereus SM3, pyrethroid hydrolase from A. niger ZD11, EstP from Klebsiella sp. ZD112 and PytH (31 kDa) from Sphingobium sp. JZ-1. In addition, Pye3, PytZ and PytY, anthropi YZ-1, and thermostable esterase Sys410. (source)
I looked at the viability of using these in the home.
5. Using natural products to clean up Pesticides
One study had a different goal, which was to remove pesticides from beans.
Some of these pesticides are in the same class used for pesticides in homes.
Their natural formula was partially effective in reducing the residues of the pesticides chlorantraniliprole, bifenthrin profenophos, lambda cyhalothrin, beta cyfluthrin, fipronil, flubendiamide, and imidacloprid. (source)
We look closer at this in Substack.
Other remediation techniques:
- Sealing with polyurethane (source Johnson, M. Letter to Steve Renninger, On-Scene Coordinator, US EPA: Documentation for Previous Verbal Consultations that ATSDR Provided to the US EPA and the Cincinnati Department of Health Regarding Excessive Spray of Malathion in Several Residences; U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry: Chicago, IL, 2011.)
- Use urgent containment like aluminum foil.
Corinne Segura is an InterNACHI-certified Healthy Homes Inspector with certifications in Building Biology, Healthier Materials and Sustainable Buildings, and more. She has 10 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. You can book a consult here.
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Joe
Goah, I wish my ex-wife was around to explain the chemistry in your article. Very detailed and scientific. Just my bathroom was hit by an exterminator twice and now, even after basic cleaning, it’s hard to breatin there. Thanks.
Clara
What would you recommend to treat termites inside and outside a home?
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
I haven’t written about termite treatments
Donna
Hello. Hoping you reference above to Fipronil pesticide in a few areas may help me with a problem we have. Taurus SC which is Fipronil was sprayed along the outside perimeter of my home and around windows and doors on first floor. There was a odor in garage which has now cleared. Nothing major on first floor, but the basement had awful smell and I am not sure if the vapors came through the soil into the foundation wall or a small visible crack in one corner of the basement that sometimes gets damp when it rains. I have used vinegar soap and water spray and placed vinegar containers and baking soda to no avail. Servpro is recommending use of air scrubbers for 5 days and cleaning the concrete walls, drywall, exposed wood and contents with Benefect. I do have Multiple Chemical Sensitivity and am not sure I can tolerate that smell and I can definitely not tolerate the pesticide odor which is getting worse even though I only run to basement every now and then to check to see if odor dissipated or spray more vinegar. You mention Hydrogen peroxide as a cleaner – would we be better off using straight hydrogen peroxide after we run the air scrubbers to clean everything. I am afraid to use the Benefect (which works on mold) and I am afraid to create a new chemical reaction and I sadly cannot move out of home and am getting quicker and quicker reactions so looking for some advice that you may be able to provide. I have sadly just been advised today that there is no air test that can be done for fipronil because it is too new and there is no media that they know of to test for it. Thank you in advance for any info you can provide.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
You have to find out what class of pesticide that is and then see which of the cleaning products in the article work for that. there can be byproducts to using hydrogen perioxide or bleach. Whether benefect reacts with that pesticide i wouldnt know but if you have mold that is likely the underlying cause of becoming hypersensitive to pesticides in my experience and observation of working with people over the last 10 years so I would make sure you deal with that thoroughly as the top priority.
Donna
Thank you Corinne. Fipronil is a phenylpyrazole insecticide and I referred to the Hydrogen Peroxide because your article specifically mentioned “Fipronil”. I have received two different cleaning methods from the manufacturer and then saw yours as another so was curious. I know that I do not have a mold problem anywhere in home now but did resolve a small issue in 2013. I do react to mold if around it. I know the symptoms and clear out and then get a 3-5 day chest cold and serious sinus issue. The pesticide is causing all irritation issues and skin burning issues. Can you advise if you have thoughts on how long the vapors of the pesticide can linger in the poured concrete wall? We will be wiping everything down with Dawn dish soap and water as per the manufacturers suggestion (other was to use Tide) and then using air scrubbers. But my concern is the concrete wall. Is there something that could be used to act like sunlight to help break down the chemicals faster?
Thank you.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
then hydogen perioxide degrades that.
Donna
Thank you Corinne. So if I spray all of the cement walls in the basement and wood foundation rim sills this will degrade the pesticide. Do I spray and leave it on for a period of time or is it to be wiped on with a rag and left there .. or wiping down after awhile (minutes/hours?) to pick up residue after it degrades it? Also, do you think if the ceiling and walls were reinsulated and drywalled again (they were before the new duct work was installed) that would hold back any new vapors that seep out of the walls? Since we can’t figure out how it got in and Fipronil lasts for a very long time in the soil, I am afraid it could continue to smell. Also do you have any opinions of just basic air duct cleaning without adding cleaners/chemicals since the air was run for a few hours two days after the application that any dust particles from the fans running to clear the odor may have gotten into the system. I know that the vent boots at the corners have minute openings that surely allowed the chemical odor to get in a bit or even up into the upper floors. Truly appreciate your advice as this pesticide exposure feels so much worse that the mold and fragrance exposure years ago. Since I cannot leave the house, I feel I will never heal from this one.
Donna
One other question is that to try to clean up the Fipronil, we only need to use standard hydrogen peroxide from a drug store and wipe with that for good results. We do not need to buy the DF200 product since it is the hydrogen peroxide in the product that is the active ingredient breaking down the pesticide. Is the DF200 usually known to be safe for a chemically sensitive person in your experience? Since the initial remediator did not want to go the hydrogen perioxide route, they may be more prone to use the DF200 so just wondering on this.
G
Donna, I’m in the same boat, but with a different organochlorine insecticide in or around the house. If you would like, we can encourage each other or share information or progress.
Donna
Good morning G. I just noticed this response in my email. Since my issue happened, I had a restoration company within 3 wks wipe down the entire basement in my home and all contents with dawn dish soap and water. (it was tough trying to figure out what to use based on internet notes and the manufacturer of the pesticide and what the restoration company would use) They steam cleaned the carpets and I had an air scrubber run for 5 days in basement with another run venting out the tiny window. There were also blowers running to ensure carpet dried and no moisture built up for mold since the carpets were cleaned. It was a fighting process and put me in debt. I did not use my cooling/heating system from mid August until Feb and spent all time at home in bedroom at furthest corner of house. I cringed at the humidity in the house and ran ceiling fans thru October with space heaters after that. Still had odor in basement floor area where issue occurred and finally covered floor with large trash bags and then then smell came through strong so covered that with linen tablecloth and things were better. Even better when I put an air purifier in the heater room in basement where the worst was. Bigger issue came when not using dryer in basement and went to a laundromat and came back sicker than ever after hugh fragrance exposure which never came out of clothes – some which were tossed. A year later I feel ok in house with air system running but there is still somewhat of an odd odor coming from cement in basement and as long as purifier runs I am okay. And sadly my restoration company created a whole new problem in house by using an air scrubber that was used in a fire situation and never changed the filters. I commented and they said no all were new until I really pushed and then they admitted it. so one of the scrubbers was on my main living floor and it filled the entire area and my second floor with smoke smell and I collected DAMPRID bags of collected moisture that turned solid brown from what was pulled from the air. I had furiously scrubbed every content of my house so many times I am surprised my walls and furniture are still standing. My entire life and financial situation changed all because of one ant problem that was outside my house feet from the house. I would be happy to listen to your situation if you wish to comment back. When starting out i contacted the exterminator, the mfg of chemical, PA Dept of Agriculture, EPA, other states Pesticide groups (Nevada was a little helpful), California had some scientists who did studies but could never really reach those people…so many people and just kept going down that big rabbit hole and coming out angry at a chemical mfg who created something that shouldnt be sprayed inside but having no corrective action plan if it happened. They were nice for 2 wks and after that…SORRY. They need a plan..things happen and to be totally useless or casual about it is beyond frustrating. I hope what ever your situation is, it is improving.
Michael Penna
Hello, what happens if pesticide residue enters the HVAC system of your house? A family member inadvertently used Roach Killer on the porch in my house, and some of the residue drifted into the HVAC system. What would be the best way to get rid of it?
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
HVAC is not my area of expertise. I know in some ares they can fog ducts but the normal cleaning or rigid ducts is more to remove dust and debris. That would help though.
LaDonna
Hi, I had my home sprayed in June with Pyrethroid and I became extremely sensitive to it. This has turned my entire living situation into a nightmare! My skin would burn and turn red after standing too long near any area that the technician had sprayed. He was so careless with the use of the spray in my brand new home that he got this chemical on furniture and other items. After contacting Poison Control, I was advised to use soap and water, then vinegar and water to wipe down the base boards, cabinets, and walls. I have since thrown away so many items and this has been a very expensive remediation process and miserable to live in. 5 months later and this problem is just now getting better as I believe that a chemical drift has occurred. Do you think that a carbon filter air purifier will help? I also still experience some sensitivity when I reach under my cabinets in the kitchen and bathroom. Should I try the hydrogen peroxide to wipe and them down again? Please advise….
Melissa
We’re considering having our wood framing treated with BoraCare as a termite prevention. Do you have any hesitations about using this product in terms of chemical sensitivity? The framing will be covered with insulation and drywall in the living areas, but will be exposed in the attic. Thank you!
Alexandra
Hi Corinne,
Thank you so much for sharing this information. If your home was treated with pyrethroid insecticide what would you do clear it? My husband and I have had adverse reaction to it and have been staying at my parents house with our 15 month old baby since our home was treated. The manufacturer said to just use soap and water to clean but it has not helped. Please can you advise me?
Corinne
this article covers that
Cheryl Estrella
Hi Corrine:
Is DF200 available for homeowners/residential, or is this only sold for industrial use to companies?
We sprayed Ortho Lawn and Landscape (Bifenthrin and Permethrin) in crawlspace of home – then evacuated home due to being sick from it. The home sat empty for a long time before we had soil removed, but it was too late – and vapors infused the house and all the furniture and clothes with the odor. I’m not sure how I would get this out of the framing and walls of the house without fogging. Any recommendations?
Corinne
You just need the hydrogen peroxide component of that so you can use any type of hydrogen peroxide.
Kim Baranek
What do you think about sealing cabinets with shellac where pesticides were sprayed?
Corinne
I wouldn’t go with that strategy. If someone is sensitive to pesticides I wouldn’t not want to impede their breakdown.
Kim Baranek
Thanks for replying. I’ll go with hydrogen peroxide or Blue Bear Emerge. Do you recommend leaving the cleaner on the cabinets for a certain period of time before scrubbing and wiping clean?
Corinne
I’m not sure the dwell time, you’d have to check the studies that I link to. Also I would not clean this yourself if you are the sensitive one.
Hope
We had a mouse infestation in our home and are having a hard time cleaning up the droppings. I was using hydrogen peroxide with stabilizers until I read that the stabilizers contain lead. I am not sure if this is true. There is just limited information about how to safely clean up the droppings with non toxic cleaners. What would you do?
Corinne Segura
Ive never seen stabilisers that contain lead. What is the source of that? you could use food grade HP or see my article on non toxic disinfectants.