Pesticide manufacturer labels or safety data sheets (SDS) identify decontaminants such as chlorine bleach, caustic soda (lye), or lime. But there are limitations to that data, they do not show the degradation rate or if there are potentially toxic byproducts that could form during decontamination. Plus using lye and lime to clean is usually not practical for actual cleaning needs and they can’t be used on many surfaces.
I have reviewed the studies on decontamination and remediation of residential pesticides to find some cleaning methods that would work in real homes.
Please consult with a local Industrial Hygienist and the pesticide company that makes the product you are attempting to clean up and break down. Remember that some of these methods do produce byproducts with some pesticides.
1. Surfactants
While surfactants on their own are not enough to eliminate pesticides they are a good start and they can be used in combination with other chemicals. In the study below on hydrogen peroxide, some of the formulas contained surfactants.
My post on degreasers covers the strongest industrial formulas that are still non-toxic.
This strategy is not producing a chemical reaction and so it should not produce any byproducts. It’s a safe way to start to reduce the pesticide load.
2. Hydrogen Peroxide
In one study hydrogen peroxide effectively degraded organophosphorus and pyrethroid pesticides, but had less activity on breaking down organochlorine.
The study concluded that hydrogen peroxide is useful for the degradation of organophosphorus and pyrethroid.
(source)
In another study, building materials were contaminated with the following pesticides: malathion, carbaryl, fipronil, deltamethrin, and permethrin.
The hydrogen peroxide component in DF200 and Sterilex products was found to be highly effective for degrading malathion, carbaryl, fipronil, deltamethrin, and permethrin on stainless-steel, plywood, and vinyl.
Hydrogen peroxide containing products were most effective at degrading carbaryl (>71-99%) and least effective on permethrin (<54%).
(source)
3. Bleach
In the same study, they also tested out full-strength bleach. Bleach effectively reduced the levels and broke down all of the tested pesticides except for carbaryl. It worked really well on permethrin, degrading it efficiently >94%.
They used a long contact time (18 hr) for both hydrogen peroxide and bleach. (source)
They used full-strength bleach which is technically not recommend by manufacturers. They suggest proceeding with caution with bleach.
Bleach can react with other chemicals to form byproducts, be sure to talk to the manufacturer of the pesticide before proceeding (source). Read more in this study for possible byproducts.
4. Bacteria and Enzymes
In another study, bacteria and enzymes were tested for their ability to break down and biodegrade pesticides. They were tested in soil and water, not in real-life conditions of a home, so keep in mind because that changes things.
Among the strains tested, bacteria that belong to the genera Bacillus, Brevibacillus, Ochrobactrum, Pseudomonas, Serratia, and Sphingobium “were found to be very metabolically active microorganisms that are capable of degrading various pyrethroids”.
A few pyrethroid-degrading enzymes have been documented: carboxylase from B. cereus SM3, pyrethroid hydrolase from A. niger ZD11, EstP from Klebsiella sp. ZD112 and PytH (31 kDa) from Sphingobium sp. JZ-1. In addition, Pye3, PytZ and PytY, anthropi YZ-1 and thermostable esterase Sys410.
(source)
Folks with environmental sensitivity have used bacteria and enzymes for remediation of various chemical and biological contaminants. I have not assessed whether the products on the market that are often used by the chemically sensitive will work for this purpose.
However, the products on the market include:
Bacterial:
- Liquid EM-1
- HomeBiotic
Enzymatic high strength:
- Mold Toxin Klear
- Enzyme Komplete
Enzymatic lower strength:
- See my post on enzyme cleaners
5. Vinegar, Baking Soda, and Lemon
One study had a different goal, which was to remove pesticides from beans. Some of these pesticides are in the same class used for pesticides in homes so I thought I would list this option here.
Their formula was 4% Acetic Acid + 0.1% baking soda + 1 Lemon followed by a 2% salt solution which was partially effective in reducing the residues of the pesticides chlorantraniliprole, bifenthrin profenophos, lambda cyhalothrin, beta cyfluthrin, fipronil, flubendiamide, and imidacloprid.
(source)
Other remediation techniques:
- Sealing with polyurethane (source Johnson, M. Letter to Steve Renninger, On-Scene Coordinator, US EPA: Documentation for Previous Verbal Consultations that ATSDR Provided to the US EPA and the Cincinnati Department of Health Regarding Excessive Spray of Malathion in Several Residences; U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry: Chicago, IL, 2011.)
- Use urgent containment like aluminum foil.
Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.
LaDonna
Hi, I had my home sprayed in June with Pyrethroid and I became extremely sensitive to it. This has turned my entire living situation into a nightmare! My skin would burn and turn red after standing too long near any area that the technician had sprayed. He was so careless with the use of the spray in my brand new home that he got this chemical on furniture and other items. After contacting Poison Control, I was advised to use soap and water, then vinegar and water to wipe down the base boards, cabinets, and walls. I have since thrown away so many items and this has been a very expensive remediation process and miserable to live in. 5 months later and this problem is just now getting better as I believe that a chemical drift has occurred. Do you think that a carbon filter air purifier will help? I also still experience some sensitivity when I reach under my cabinets in the kitchen and bathroom. Should I try the hydrogen peroxide to wipe and them down again? Please advise….
Melissa
We’re considering having our wood framing treated with BoraCare as a termite prevention. Do you have any hesitations about using this product in terms of chemical sensitivity? The framing will be covered with insulation and drywall in the living areas, but will be exposed in the attic. Thank you!
Alexandra
Hi Corinne,
Thank you so much for sharing this information. If your home was treated with pyrethroid insecticide what would you do clear it? My husband and I have had adverse reaction to it and have been staying at my parents house with our 15 month old baby since our home was treated. The manufacturer said to just use soap and water to clean but it has not helped. Please can you advise me?
Corinne
this article covers that
Cheryl Estrella
Hi Corrine:
Is DF200 available for homeowners/residential, or is this only sold for industrial use to companies?
We sprayed Ortho Lawn and Landscape (Bifenthrin and Permethrin) in crawlspace of home – then evacuated home due to being sick from it. The home sat empty for a long time before we had soil removed, but it was too late – and vapors infused the house and all the furniture and clothes with the odor. I’m not sure how I would get this out of the framing and walls of the house without fogging. Any recommendations?
Corinne
You just need the hydrogen peroxide component of that so you can use any type of hydrogen peroxide.
Kim Baranek
What do you think about sealing cabinets with shellac where pesticides were sprayed?
Corinne
I wouldn’t go with that strategy. If someone is sensitive to pesticides I wouldn’t not want to impede their breakdown.
Kim Baranek
Thanks for replying. I’ll go with hydrogen peroxide or Blue Bear Emerge. Do you recommend leaving the cleaner on the cabinets for a certain period of time before scrubbing and wiping clean?
Corinne
I’m not sure the dwell time, you’d have to check the studies that I link to. Also I would not clean this yourself if you are the sensitive one.