My Chemical-Free House

A Guide to Creating a Healthy Home

mold avoidance paradigm

Review of Boxabl Prefabs (Home of Elon Musk)

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Review of Boxabl SIPS Prefab House

The company Boxabl has created a metal SIPs (structurally integrated panel) house that has caught a lot of folks’ attention.

The main reason it has gone so viral is that it promises it all – fast, easy, cheap, resilient, and healthy.

My job as a Building Biologist is to review homes for durability, indoor air quality and resilience to mold.

It may be cheap and fast, but is this home a durable and healthy home?

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Non-Toxic Travel Trailers for the Mold & Chemically Sensitive

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This article focuses on the healthiest trailers. The first priority is that the trailer holds up to mold. If it doesn’t hold up to mold, no amount of natural wood, or wool, or other eco-friendly material really matters.

Conventional trailers are extremely mold-prone. They use wood within the walls, roofs, and floors with a design that is not airtight. Condensation usually forms in the cavities. They are also prone to leaks.

The Designs That Best Hold up to Mold are:

  1. Sandwich construction – Airtight cavities of metal or fiberglass with rigid foam insulation. Ideally laminated together.
  2. Fiberglass shell campers – Solid fiberglass body trailers are single or double hulls. A single hull has no hidden cavity where condensation or mold can form. The double hulls can work well too. I list brands that have minimal wood or where the wood does not become a mold risk.

Low-VOC Trailers:

No well-made trailer is extremely low in VOCs. Some are better than others.

The interiors of all-metal trailers can be lower in offgassing compared to trailers with other wall materials. But don’t underestimate the odors of the glues used in all metal trailers.

There is no getting around the offgassing. The best strategy is to give it some time to offgas or buy a used one if you are highly sensitive.

You certainly can compare models though if you are chemically sensitive since we all are reactive to different chemical combinations. You definitely could find some brands more tolerable than others, even if the total VOC count is the same.

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Passive House Tiny House – A Detailed Mold Preventative Build

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Intro from Corinne

What it takes to Build a Mold-Preventative House

This post is about a meticulously built tiny home, designed to hold up in the long run to mold.

The post is written by the owner/builder who did years of research and consulted with many building science experts.

There was an extreme attention to detail on preventing mold.

The main reason almost every house is moldy is because of the many mistakes made in both design and execution.

These mistakes can be even more prevalent in tiny homes – which are less regulated and often built by non-experts.

This post serves as an example of the care, research, consultation, and attention needed to build a tiny house that will hold up to mold. There is no other article like this online nor in books so I’m very grateful to Terran!

The owner/builder, Terran, also has TILT (also known as chemical sensitivity). There is a focus on healthy materials in the build as well as mold prevention.

This post may have ideas you can use in your own build and it is also interesting to see the kind of detail needed to carefully build a house.

The build itself took over a year.

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Pandemic Plans for those Homeless from Mold and Chemical Sensitivity

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Updated in April 2020

Areas of Concern for those Homeless or on the Road for Mold Avoidance or from MCS

Updates April 25th – Campsites are re-opening in many states: Tennessee, Georgia, Alaska (weather dependant), Alabama, Arizona, Oklahoma, Texas. Check each state to see if private and or sate parks are open.

May 1st should see another wave of openings.

  • Gyms closed in Italy and highly affected areas. Gyms are closed for the most part in North America now (march). Those reliant on gyms for showers and lockers need to make other plans.
  • Post offices closed for airmail in parts of Italy. This is less likely to happen in North America, however, those in Europe may want to prepare for what Italy has gone through. Those who need really important supplies like supplements and other necessities for mold avoidance should have the basics, especially now (late march). Many supplements and essential supplies are selling out. In Canada the Post office and UPS PO boxes are deemed essential services and will stay open for now.
  • Stores closing, Amazon restrictions – many stores are closing that mold avoiders buy supplies at. Many countries are closing “non-essential stores” like clothing stores and camping supply storse. Amazon is only restocking “essential” (to normal people) items. Nonessential orders are delayed.
  • Govt campsites are closing. Those living in campsites are being hit hard. Here is the current list of closures in the US. Here is another website to double-check. BLM land closed some showers/bathrooms. Campsites in southern Canada closed as far as I have seen.
  • Private campsites closures expect and plan for closures or getting quarantine at the site. It’s also possible the government closes them due to this being a gathering place of sorts. Campsites are closed in Italy. Private campsites are closing in the US (March 22).
  • Airbnb can kick anyone out of a stay in progress (even a long term one) with 24 hours or less notice. The owner only has to say that they need the place for themselves and that’s it. No proof (from what I saw when I was booted) and you’re out. Short term rental sites like Airbnb are being restricted depending on local laws. You may not be able to move after lockdown goes into place, or bookings under 30 days may not be allowed. It may only be open to those health care workers, those in quarantine or those homeless. It depends where you are, but be prepared for both of those to happen.
  • General movement restriction. Italy and China have been especially strict with movement. The US and many other countries will not have the power or resources to restrict movement to this degree. The US and Canada are headed towards if not already in “Shelter in Place” (March 22).
    Hunker down in one location as best you can. In the restricted regions of Italy you have to put in a special request to be able to move apartments. You cannot move outside the area other than for special circumstances, of which mold avoidance will certainly not be one of them. The US is restricting movement between states in some areas.
  • Forced quarantine, especially when crossing borders is too risky for those with high reactivity to indoor housing. I would not move countries at this point (mid March).

Where should you hunker down?

In most of the Western world now is the time to start to secure your location if you are doing mold or HT avoidance, or are homeless from chemical sensitivities.

A couple of people have bought vans and trailers to create a stable (or flexible) place to stay during the viral pandemic.

Though most are simply looking for a stable location where they can stay in one place.

Where to park or camp

If you are on the road I would start to look for places where you can stay for the next three months.

I would not bank on a campsite staying open – I would have another backup plan as well.

With government campsites closing in the US and parts of Canada, I would also expect more or all government campsites to close down.

Some people have moved over to BLM land in the US, however that does not seem like the safest place to be in the long term in terms of accessing resources while on the move. They are starting to shut bathrooms and showers (March 15).

It could be possible to wait it out by camping off the radar on BLM land, especially if you have no other option, but it’s not too clear what kind of complications you might face with movement and getting supplies or if you do get sick yourself.

Check out new sites that have opened to help folks find places to part their RV like NomadParky. There are Facebook groups as well.

My severe flu while camping:

I did get a severe respiratory flu with (and Erichlia at the same time) two years ago while camping in Florida. My tent washed out in a storm the night I got sick and I ended up forced to sleep in a truck that I was reacting to.

Luckily I did have that truck as a backup and I was warm enough.

Make sure you have supplies of food, water and what you need to stay warm if you get sick.

While both my helper and my one friend also had a severe flu and couldn’t help me, I did have a stockpile of bottled water, canned soup, and replacement gear. I had little choice but to wait it out until others recovered and could help me get a new tent set up.

While the situation worked out, it was close to deadly for both me and my friend who had a fever of 105.

Camp/park on private property

This would be the time to start looking at places you could park your RV, car, van, or pitch your tent on private property where you will have some safety, privacy and stability. You can ask around with people you know if you can park or camp there.

You could also look at regular market rental houses that have a parking spot or backyard.

The safest bet right now is a regular market rental now a friend’s or family’s place. More below.

Accessing BnBs During the Pandemic- pros and cons

The final option is of course to rent a BnB. I have been following the price changes that are related to the virus outbreak.

There are a few challenges with Airbnbs but it could be a good option for many.

Pros

One benefit is that prices are coming down in many places. They came down slowly until the area is severely affected by the virus or there is a full travel ban, and only then they are coming down by a lot.

There are few places just outside of lockdown cities where prices have gone up as people try and escape the city lockdown!

If cases are on the rise in your area this may be the time to negotiate a medium-term 1 to 3 months stay with a host. Hosts will start looking for more stability with their rentals and might be looking for fewer people coming and going. In most places right now this would be the time to negotiate a monthly rate and longer stay. Get checked in before your area goes into lockdown.

Cons

There will, of course, be some people that need to come back to their own BnB themselves if things go badly, since some people are actually renting out their own house.

Anyone can be booted with 24 hours notice from a bnb they are currently living in even if it’s a long term rental. They only need to tell Airbnb they need the rental for themselves or their family and you are out just like that.

Be very cautious with a room in a house or any shared property since they may decide (and I think it’s more likely than not) that they do not want to have the risk of anyone sharing their house if things escalate.

I would ask the owner upfront if there’s any chance that they would need the property for themselves if the outbreak gets worse, and how else the outbreak could affect their plans to rent out the bnb. I asked the owner where I was staying this she lied about it and booted me with 3 hours notice (by the time she actually got ahold of me it was only 3 hours).

The most ideal situation, for those living in RVs, cars and tents, would be to afford to rent a whole house where you can safely park or pitch a tent without anybody’s interference.

It appears that some bnbs are being taken off the site and converted to regular long term housing. So you might find them in regular classifieds. Though in many places you cannot view a long term rental before signing a lease.

In some places there are government restrictions on being able to move into a short term rental like the vacation rentals or you may only be able to book more than 30 days. Check into your rental before the lockdown starts.

Back up plans

Now is the time to lock in to a rental if you haven’t already.

If you are relying on a bnb/vacation rental, your rights are not as strong as if you were in a regular market rental. If hotels and campsites close and if you can’t view regular rentals make sure you have an idea for a backup plan.

What about hotels?

Hotels are a little riskier based on what’s been happening in countries with a high infection rate.

It looks to me from what has been happening in China and Europe that some hotels are closing down due to lack of business and it’s possible to get kicked out.

A smaller family-run hotel could find themselves have too many employees ill to continue running it, along with lack of business.

There are of course a few horror stories out there as well, in the Canary Islands one hotel where there was a confirmed infection went under total quarantine.

This means you could get stuck in a hotel that may not turn out to be mold safe for many weeks or months.

Some hotels are being used as quarantine facilities themselves.

In California they are using them to house those who are homeless. Some are used to house health care workers. Some are staying open to both health care workers and regular bookings (look for extended stay rentals you might be able to book something monthly and it might be a place you can stay).

In China many hotels are temporarily shut down. In Italy, it does not look like as many are completely shut. But with extreme restrictions on movement, you may be de facto quarantined to that location.

Should you leave the country for a safer or warmer place?

Although it might be tempting to leave for the Caribbean or a country that does not yet have the outbreak, there is no guarantee that this will be a safer option in the long term.

Update: The window for this strategy has passed in most of the world (March 18). Most countries are canceling travel insurance, you almost certainly have to come home unless you are working overseas.

Although some have left where they were living in order to come back home in February, I would not leave your home country for another location at this moment (mid March) unless there was a specific spot that you know would be safe and you are prepared to stay there until summer.

If you do need to come back home after leaving, it’s possible you could be put into quarantine upon reentry. Most people are put into self-quarantine. If there is an outbreak on a ship or plane you may be put into forced quarantine.

You would also have to see if you have the needed medical and other supports in the country you want to go to.

Risks that are particularly Worrisome for those Severely Ill with Environmental Illness

True quarantine:

The risk of being put into quarantine is a severe risk for mold avoiders, those with high MCS and those with limited functioning.

Those returning from cruise ships have put into military housing which should not be assumed to be mold safe.

Those crossing certain borders are being put into quarantine housing. You would not want to be forcefully quarantined in a hotel or other facility chosen by the government if you are mold and chemically sensitive.

Caregiver shortage:

For those relying on caregivers, expect shortages of caregivers and for all companies to cut back on hours as any sick employees will be mandated to stay home for two weeks.

I would stock up on things that you are able to eat without cooking like soup in tetra packs, baby food, juice, as well as frozen foods. Anything that could help you get by with fewer helpers.

Grocery delivery services are overloaded and they don’t seem to have found a way to prioritize those who are physically disabled, or very sick.

More grocery stores are offering delivery than were before.

Restaurants are expanding to offer delivery, so keep checking call them and tell them your needs.

Check with local groups in your area many people are volunteering to deliver groceries and many people are out of work and looking for small jobs doing deliveries.

As the crisis progressed it actually became easier to get help that before, but there was a blip between those two situations.

Challenges for those HT sensitive:

For those with HT, if there is any chance of post office closures where you are, stockpile your absolute necessities as much as you can

Special cleaning products for HT, clothes, soap and other necessities that HT avoiders need must be kept safe somewhere.

This is of course a huge challenge and it may be worth taking out a storage locker.

Those who were relying on gyms for storage lockers or showers should have other plans in place.

Clothing stores are closing in affected areas, in less affected areas they are cutting back on hours.

Supplement stores are delayed with their orders due to stockpiling.

All non essential items on amazon .com and .ca are delayed.

Those on the move due to HT avoidance should consider a clean break now (mid march, if doing a clean break do it now time is running out for what’s needed to do this).

Get Rid of Mold in Your Car, Including AC System

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prevent and treat mold in vehicles

This article covers the sources of mold growth in vehicles – AC system, high humidity storage, spills, leaks, and design malfunctions – and how to prevent them.

I go into detail on the four methods used to clean the HVAC system out, as well as methods to clean mold and cross-contamination in the vehicle as a whole.

The AC is usually the most difficult area in the vehicle to manage microbial growth. While there are certain makes and models of vehicles where this is more of an issue, to some degree it’s a problem in all vehicles due to the inherent design of the AC system.

This post contains affiliate links, upon purchase I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Preventing Mold in Vehicles

Preventing Mold in the AC and Heating System (HVAC)

prevent mold in the car's AC system

The fungi and bacteria grow mostly in the evaporator core and immediate surrounds, due to humidity and moisture that forms when AC is in use. Mold can form in the ductwork as well.

To help reduce mold formation in the AC system, run the fan for the last 10 min after using the AC. (Defrost is also AC, so you need to run the fan for 10 minutes after defrost as well). This helps the evaporator dry out.

Using recirculate can worsen the problem in some situations. Bringing in fresh air (if the outdoor air has drier absolute humidity) as opposed to using recirculate can help the evaporator to dry out.

Another thing you can do is to avoid parking in areas where a lot of debris can enter the air intake.

Similarly, when driving through very dusty areas, you are bringing in dust and spores through the air intake. You may want to turn off the HVAC system completely in those conditions.

Maintenence on the vehicle should include changing the cabin air filter as needed (when it’s dirty).

I would include one of the four HVAC cleaning methods below as a preventative (before you start smelling or reacting to mold) if you do use the AC system regularly.

For those Extremely Sensitive to Mold in HVAC – How do you Turn off the AC?

Many folks who are extremely sensitive to mold do not use the AC system in their vehicle at all. If you refrain from using this right from the start with a new car, you will avoid most of the problems here.

If you want to avoid AC use altogether, using just the heating system should be fine. But, keep in mind many new vehicle models have automatic climate control which will use both heating and cooling under many different conditions (not just when defrosting). If you want to turn off the AC, look for a vehicle where this can be done – new cars have a way to disconnect the AC compressor. Ask a mechanic how to do this.

Does the auto setting on cars use AC and how to turn off AC

If you have already used the vehicle’s AC or you bought a used vehicle that has some funk in the HVAC system, then even the heating setting will circulate the fungi and bacteria throughout the vehicle.

Buying a vehicle with heated seats is a good idea in case you become sensitized to the vented HVAC and need to turn it off for a while (and try and clean it). Some very sensitive folks have had to turn it off permanently if they have not had success with the cleaning methods.

One other hack is that you can externally mount the HVAC system to get easy access to the evaporator. This is a very unusual hack. You can find photos of it in the group Mold Avoiders on the Road.

Alternative Ways to Stay Cool in the Car

Cars that Come with Cooling Seats

Some of these built-in systems blow unrefrigerated air through the cushions. And some use refrigerated air that is tied into the main AC systems. The unrefrigerated air system may be safe in terms of mold prevention.

Safer Cooling Seats (or Heating)

You can also add your own cooling and heating seats to avoid the use of your car’s HVAC system.

Cooling seats that you add yourself work simply by adding a fan that blows unconditioned air which helps to cool you down.

Some use fans and those can be affordable. (Though they might be made of vinyl).

The heated seats use coils, just like a heated blanket or heated jacket. Some models do both.

Then there are gel seats, I like the idea of the ones you put in the freezer first, then you bring it out to the car with you. This is a kids version. If you know an adult version let me know, I think it’s a good idea. You will want to dry those off though, when they come out of the freezer they are probably going to condensate.

Cooling Vests

When I used to have severe heat intolerance, I used cooling vests on my body – both active and passive vests work.

The active vests provide more cooling but are more expensive.

They were life-saving for me until I healed from heat intolerance.

Preventing Mold in the Car (as a Whole)

does mold grow in cars just from sitting in humid climates
Many of us stored our vehicles in the humid winters of the Pacific Northwest, to come back to moldy cars

Why Mold Grows Inside Vehicles

There are a few ways your vehicle can become moldy inside on the seats and upholstery. Sometimes just leaving a car to sit in a very humid place for long periods of time can cause mold to start growing on the seats.

More common though, is a spill or window left open that wasn’t dealt with fast enough.

Other sources of water damage are less common:

  • Debris accumulating in the air intake areas and connected drains (keep your air intake area clean, and change the filter). The cowl intake and drain area can collect debris. Those areas are connected to body cavities that can harbor microbial growth. Thus structural mold is possible in a vehicle, though this is less likely than mold growth in the HVAC and inside the vehicle.
  • Rainwater that has gotten into the HVAC ducts and car interior in some past Ford models – causing hidden pooling of water.

Ways to Prevent Mold Growth in Vehicles

Prevention here is key. Once mold is actively growing and has made it through to the foam in the seats, it’s a huge problem that is hard to fix.

When storing your vehicle for long periods of time in a constantly humid climate, it’s best to leave it in a sunny spot and leave it with a dehumidifier. Climate-controlled indoor storage is of course ideal.

Though generally, a vehicle should be able to withstand a good amount of humidity while being stored, really high humidity for long periods has been a problem. I left a truck in 70-95% humidity for a couple of months and came back to mold growth. No known water intrusion.

Many others in the Pacific North West or in semi-tropical and tropical areas have left vehicles sitting to come back to visible mold growing (and not from leaks).

Both active (electricity-powered), and passive dehumidifiers will help. You can also monitor the outdoor humidity.

I would check on the vehicle (or have someone check on it), both to empty the dehumidifiers and possibly to dry the vehicle out actively with heat and airing every few days if necessary.

When you spill something or leave the window open, just do everything you can to dry it out within a day, which includes the above: usually sun and air, or heat and air. Add dehumidification only if it’s going too slowly.

Decon/Clean Mold or Cross-Contamination in a Car

DISCLAIMER: Some of the cleaning methods discussed in this article, which include ozone, chlorine dioxide, hydrogen peroxide, and quaternary ammonia, require knowledge of safety precautions for handling the materials, and executing these methods. Please take full responsibility for your health and wellbeing and make sure you understand the risks, precautions, and procedures – not all of which are explained here in full (please research them before proceeding or consult with an expert). Full disclaimer here.

use a HEPA vacuum to decon mold in a car

If you do have some light surface mold in the car or cross-contamination, I would start with a deep clean.

If you had a big spill that didn’t dry out, or you suspect someone else did in your vehicle, you might want to open the seat covers to check on the foam. Some have zippers. If they don’t you would have to cut them open to check.

Mold in the foam cannot be properly remediated other than with replacement.

Deep Clean your Vehicle

You can remove light surface mold or cross-contamination by steam cleaning or shampooing the seats.

Make sure it is dried out quickly after that. Car detailing shops can do this. Just make sure you know which products they are using, as some might not be acceptable, toxin-wise.

A mechanic I talked to near Vancouver BC, does a shampoo of the seats with high temp extraction, then an enzyme spray on the seats instead of ozone to reduce odors. I use natural enzymes to break down odors.

DIY HEPA Sandwich for a Car

If it’s not so bad as to warrant a steam clean or extractor shampoo, use a HEPA vacuum, which you can do yourself. Vacuum the seats, carpet, and upholstery.

For a vehicle, you want a rather flexible hose. I would use a shop vac. I’ve used one before with the HEPA filter and HEPA filter bags.

You can then wipe down all surfaces with quats or the cleaning product of your choice. A proper “HEPA sandwich” clean would involve another round of vacuuming.

Having your car or truck professionally detailed can help, as they do a very thorough clean, though I haven’t seen them do HEPA vacuuming.

Using Ozone on Cross Contamination

If those methods don’t cut it, and you are still sensing mold in the vehicle, you will want to use the methods below.

Many people do use ozone and it does work, but it leaves behind oxidation, which smells quite terrible.

Depending on how long you ozonated it for, it can take a while to die down.

I don’t agree with some who say that you will damage the wiring easily, you would have to use extremely high levels for a very long time to do damage like that.

Many mold-sensitive folks have ozonated vehicles at very high concentrations for 24 hours, many times. I have done a couple of 24-hour treatments on my truck.

Car dealerships use this all the time as well (but normally in much shorter treatments, like 1 hour). Many people only do 2-hour treatments for mold, which should not cause damage to the plastics, and would only cause minimal oxidation odor after.

There is more info below on pumping ozone through the HVAC. If you don’t need to pump it through the HVAC, just see my general post on ozone and run it inside the vehicle. I use many of the little ones from Amazon (like this one).

Please read through the precautions thoroughly, since ozone is a dangerous gas that can be deadly.

Another oxidization method, though it is a weaker oxidizer than ozone, is to use chlorine dioxide gas. That method is explained below, in its own section.

Other Fogging Methods for Mold

If you have another decon method that has worked well for you in decontaminating your house from mold, it’s likely you can use that here – like thieves oil fogging, Concrobium fogging, or using quats.

Silver Hydrogen Peroxide though, is likely too much oxidation for most vehicles, though it can be used in the empty part of metal cargo vans.

Chlorine Dioxide Gas to Treat Mold

Chlorine Dioxide, like ozone is an oxidizer. Like ozone, there is evidence that it breaks down mold and mycotoxins.

Although it’s weaker than ozone, you should take the same safety precautions outlined here. It is dangerous to breathe in and it’s explosive in certain concentrations.

You may not need to be so far away from it like with high doses of ozone, which is an upside. It’s also cheaper and easier.

Keep it simple and buy the ready-made tablets or packets on Amazon. They are inexpensive and work just as well as mixing it yourself. NosGuard is one brand, Reset is another one.

Read the safety instructions carefully on the product and make sure you understand them. Never use a chlorine dioxide product in occupied spaces.

If you want to make it yourself, please take full responsibility for your safety and wellbeing. Here are the instructions:

How to make chlorine dioxide gas treatment for the home or car: 6.5 oz (roughly 3/4 cup) Oxine plus 3-4 tsp citric acid in glass or heavy plastic container, one for each room. Leave it for 3 hours for a shock treatment or 24 hours for a deep treatment.

You can make a smaller batch for smaller spaces with the same ratio. It takes about a minute for the reaction to take place, the liquid will turn yellow, and for about 3 hours it will release chlorine dioxide as a gas. Take similar precautions as with ozone for airing it out and re-entering.

Four Methods for Cleaning Mold from the AC (HVAC) System of the Car

1. Take it to a Dealership – Have them Clean out the System

Skill Level – Easy. Results – Can work, depending on which methods they use.

how to clean mold out of the AC system of a car

There are a number of different cleaning methods used by automotive repair shops to clean out the AC system. Some use ozone and even run it through the HVAC in the same way as described in the next section on ozone.

There are also treatments that are similar to #4 on this list, introducing a product into the system to clean the evaporator.

One mechanic explains: “one is a mist treatment, using a product which foams up. You drill a hole in the case and then introduce the mist to the evaporator core and let it sit, give it time to work, and then flush it out.” (source).

Some of these might have fragrance of other toxic additives but others would be acceptable for many folks who are sensitive to chemicals.

2. Using Ozone Through the HVAC

Skill Level – Intermediate. Results – works on most mold and bacteria.

how to use ozone to clean out a car or AC system

This is a technique used by some car detailers and dealerships and mold-sensitive folks.

The simplest way to do it is to run an ozone machine in the car while the vehicle is running so that the ozone is pulled in through the air intake. Most people would run this through for a couple of hours. Depending on the amount of ozone and the time you run it for, you may need a window open to provide oxygen.

If you are running the machine in the car I would use a small machine like the ones on Amazon for under 100$.

Instead of running the vehicle, you could alternatively, hook up the battery to a battery charger to run through the HVAC settings that way.

For any serious contamination or if you want to blast this more directly through the HVAC, mold avoiders tend to use an external ozone machine that pumps in the gas, giving the machine full access to oxygen outside. Bioblaster is the most popular one.

If you are in the Facebook group Mold Avoiders, you will be able to see an example of a Bioblaster hooked up right to the air intake here.

That machine is overkill for me. But others may need this. I would have no problem running the smaller ones on Amazon that I have used many times and pumping those through the HVAC system with tubing from the outside.

To get it through all the different parts of the HVAC system, the ozone needs to run through it on all settings (heat, AC, recirculate). Run it through each setting for at least 20 min. The next section explains more about how to access the air intake.

This is tricky because of how far away you need to be from the ozone. Let it air out each time before coming close enough to the vehicle to change the settings. Again, ozone precautions are here.

3. Spray Through the Air Intakes

Skill Level – Beginner to Intermediate. Results – May or may not work.

spray in the air intake to kill mold in a car
The air intake is usually right under the front windshield

In this method, hydrogen peroxide or quats are sprayed through the air intake.

Some very mold-sensitive folks have had success with 10% hydrogen peroxide sprayed into the air intake with these video instructions (not with toxic products like scented Lysol). Seeing the process in a video really helps to make sense of it.  

Spray the hydrogen peroxide through each setting for 3 min. You can use this mister.

You will be using 29, 30 or 35% peroxide (depending on what you can source) and diluting it down to 10% (here is the dilution table). Please research and take full responsibility for handling and spraying this concentration of hydrogen peroxide.

Some people found this worked better with quats (a type of ammonia). This ACDelco product was recommended.

4. Greg Muske’s Quats Cleaning Strategy

Skill Level – Very Advanced. Results – Likely to work if you do it right.

how to clean the evaporator core
From http://biotoxinjourney.com/clean-driving-machine/

Greg Muske from Biotoxin Journey has a detailed and more complex method of accessing the entire HVAC system and runnings quats (i.e. quaternary ammonium) through it.

You need some mechanical expertise for this method as it does involve drilling into specific parts of the system, which differ depending on your make and model.

You need someone who can understand the heater core diagram for your car, which you can look up online. You’re going to locate the evaporator core. Then drench the two cores by running about one gallon of quats solution into 3 access holes. Followed by a water rinse.

Greg also misted quats through the ductwork via the vents and the opening for the cabin filter directly above the blower (after removing the filter), and air inlet holes located under the hood next to the firewall. Unlike when cleaning the cores, this was not rinsed out. It was dried out by running the heater and fan on high.

Greg then cleaned out the rest of the car by using a steam cleaner on the carpet with Thieves Oil Cleaner. (You can use the cleaner of your choice). All other surfaces in the vehicle were wiped down with quats.

Full instructions and a video can be found here: Clean Driving Machine. This section was printed with permission from Greg Muske.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

This post was written with input from two engineers, a mechanic, and a car detailer.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Simple Insulated Shelter for Chemical Sensitivity (MCS) and Mold Avoidance

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I recommend all of the products here, some products have affiliate programs and some do not. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission through affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

This post is about two highly insulated shelters I made with rigid foam, raised off the ground and covered in a tarp. 

These shelters are super simple, super tolerable for the chemically sensitive and are ideal for mold avoidance in cold weather (or even in hot weather).

This has the same insulative value that a house would have. I was very warm inside in Canadian winters with one space heater. This shelter can work in any climate, though it will not survive a hurricane! It was highly tolerable for MCS and a good set up for mold avoidance.

These shelters were an incredibly important step in me healing enough to live inside. The shelter was the last step in mold avoidance before I moved back inside. I moved back into regular housing for the first time in 8 years, and I continue to recover.

Living inside for one year now!

This is something I wish I had known about much earlier on, as tent living and custom trailers/vans are difficult to make and to live in, especially in cold weather. It’s hard to keep a steady temperature, it’s difficult to insulate trailers and vans, and it’s hard to keep them from going moldy. This shelter solved all those problems.

A wood frame like mine (pictured) is needed to protect the shelter from high winds and snow. My frame was very robust, survived a massive wind storm and big snowfall. If you don’t require snow and wind protection, simply tie up a tarp over the raised up foam shelter and skip the frame altogether. 

Building the Simple Shelter

The shelter is made of a plywood platform and a wood frame, though you could use metal or another material. We used some pressure treated wood for the framing and some non-treated wood.

Most of the points touching the ground are stumps, for added protection from rotting out (you can see that in the vide

The interior is an XPS foam box. The box was made to fit the plywood, it was 4 x 6 feet but you can make this any size you choose. The height we decided on was 6 ft. 

You can use any thickness of XPS that you want. Though for this to hold itself up without any supports (other than tape) as it’s designed, I would use 2 inches.

What I would do differently next time is paint the foam with ECOs primer and paint and possibly seal with shellac. This will seal in flame retardants and the very minimal off-gassing. Most extremely sensitive people do well with this foam.

I made a model to test out ECOS paint and shellac and it worked really well (both the porch paint and the vinyl siding paint worked). With or without Zinsser Bullseye Shellac.

I would also use clear tape next time because it would look better!

I would buy a tarp that covered the wood but still had air movement underneath.

When you are heating you should seal up as much as you can on the inside with the tape that you tolerate. Green painters tape or Siga tape are the most tolerated types. 

When taping the outside in heating season do not cover the seams fully, just enough to hold it together like in the videos.

In cooling season it’s the opposite (if you did put AC in there). 
Such a robust frame is not always necessary. You can build the plywood platform, with foam box on top and simply string a tarp over this if you don’t have strong winds or a lot of snow.

A number of details are necessary to control condensation on the inside of the tarp in heating season, as condensation can drip down onto the wood or foam. We used spacers on the sides, a criss-cross on the top, and a piece of plastic suspended above the roof of the foam shelter to stop water from dripping down and wood from getting wet and moldy. 

Please contact me for details if you want help setting something like this up.  

This shelter worked extremely well though there are things to keep an eye on in the long term. Here are some video tours which will help you to picture how it works, shows the spacers, and other details like windows and power. 

The whole thing was completed with some volunteer labor and some paid labor for 1000 CAD.  I used two 100 ft extension cords (10 or 12 gauge) to power this heater and my laptop and light. You need one dedicated 10-12 gauge cord if it’s 100 ft, for a 12.5 amp, 1500 watt heater. Plenty of heat for a small space! You can’t have anything else on that circuit in the house it’s running from or inside on that cord).

I used this plugin thermostat to control the temperature and keep it very even (which needed a surprising amount of offgassing). I strung up this bulb (the string needed some offgassing).

I used the Mondo King Thermarest and I covered it in two Husky bags (taped together) to keep it dry. A small fridge was kept outside in my trailer, on a different circuit. 

I used this little portable tub to “shower” in outside, and the luggable loo. More pictures of the framing:

 

Free Location Effect Sabbatical E-Booklet

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Sign up for the email list for a free 14-page e-booklet on the Top 4 Spots for a Location Effect Sabbatical, 2021

This includes the top 4 American locations in four states: Arizona, Nevada, California and New Mexico. The booklet was updated in 2021.

These are campsites for RVs and tents (some have cabins, but not vetted) where experienced mold avoiders have found a lot of healing within the last year.

Many of these locations are tried and true for many years, but I make sure I have recent reports on all of them.

The brochure covers the basic information you need to decide on which one will be best for you, including:

  • Location
  • Elevation
  • Basics on the campsite (hook ups, bathrooms etc), how spacious they are, costs, proximity to stores, WiFi and cell coverage
  • Temperatures (and other weather related details).

This post on the Locations Effect goes into more detail on what a sabbatical entails (and also what to bring!)

Title Page and Example Page:

Tiny Homes & Shelters for the Mold & Chemically Sensitive

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Related posts:
1. Regular-sized non-toxic prefab homes
2. Mobile homes on wheels for those with sensitivities
3. Emergency shelters for those with sensitivities

Simple, Small Modular and Custom Homes for those Sensitive to Mold and Chemicals

These are small and tiny houses (not on wheels) that are suitable for those with extreme sensitivities to mold and or chemicals.

Not all materials will work for all folks, that is why this article features everything from all wood, to all plastic and all metal homes.

I have natural materials on the list as well, like hemp and concrete.

These small houses are ideal to create a healing space away from conventional housing that is so prone to problems.

This post contains an affiliate link to a home sold on Amazon. This home was on this list before they starting selling through Amazon. Upon purchase, through affiliate links I earn a commission at no extra cost to you. This post is not otherwise sponsored by any of the companies.

1. Passive Home Tiny Homes

https://unityhomes.com/our-designs/nano/

Besonwood is a high-quality passive home custom prefab company. Their custom Thoreau Cabin home is 150 sq ft. The owner chose the stone facade but that is not a typical facade. They are custom homes so they can build any size.

Their predesigned wing is called Unity Homes. Their smallest house “Nano” (pictured) is 477 sq ft.

They are wood framed with passive house design, made to high standards. This would not work for those extremely sensitive to offgassing as their walls include OSB and engineered wood framing.

The insulation used is Rockwool and cellulose in the model I saw (they have different wall systems to choose from).

This is a house that mold sensitive folks should consider due to their high-quality design, high-quality factory-built, and indoor factory conditions. This is at the top of my list for a reason, I would build with this company.

You still have to have planning and supervision on the site prep, foundation and the installation of the prefab components. Every detail matters for mold prevention.

2. All Wood Prefab

Photo Here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B0WFlacAU-2/

The Holz100 homes come in all sizes from very very tiny, small and large.

The walls, floor and ceiling are all wood, no glue, no nails. The roof will not be all wood, there will need to be another roofing material there.

I have a more in depth review in the general prefab post.

I think this house is very promising but needs more investigation. If you tolerate wood there is nothing else in the interior.

To hit codes you will need to put exterior insulation on it. Exterior foam insulation would also be a fool safe method to prevent possible condensation within the air pockets of the wood wall. That is how I would detail it for mold prevention. This would make it quite pricey.

3. Wooden Treehouse

From Out N’ About, a company that rents out treehouses, sells plans and parts, this 16′ Treezebo Hexagon could be a great non-toxic home.

The plans for the treehouse includes a 3-hour consultation.

I like this simple option if you don’t need insulation. Using a rot-resistant wood and no need to worry about the foundation type simplifies everything here.

This can be a mold preventative option.

4. Arched Cabins

The basic kit for Arched Cabins includes floor plates, ribs, ridge beam, standard R13 insulation, Super Span Roof Paneling, trim, and fasteners needed to assemble the cabin.

Arched Cabin kits do not include the foundation, installation, interior, end caps, delivery.

What I like about arched cabins is that there could never be any leaks with this one-piece roof/siding.

In this design, you can use spray foam insulation (with or without rigid foam) without worrying about exterior leaks getting in behind. Spray foam, while it does offgas, is a vapor barrier and the best bet for insulating metal walls in heating climates. It’s risky though to use anything with an exterior vapor barrier (no rain screen) in a heating climate. Spray foam could pull away from the skin. Plus spray foam off gasses too much for chemically sensitive folks.

Either closed cell (2 part) spray foam is used to form an airtight vapor barrier in any climate where you heat, or not quite as foolproof is rigid insulation installed with canned (1 part) spray foam).

This could work for preventing mold, but I don’t think anything with a metal exterior is a good idea in heating climates, it’s far too dependent on spray foam holding up perfectly or a plastic barrier holding up perfectly. I would not risk that myself. And I would not use anything with an exterior metal or fibreglass vapor barrier in a heating climate myself.

The large overhangs are also superb protection from rain over the windows and doors on the ends.

The 12×12 kit is $2400. This is a simple, mostly metal kit that you could then customize to be chemical-free on the inside. 

You can see a video tour here and you can check one out on Airbnb.

5. Plastic Domes

These cool Intershelter domes are easy to transport and assemble and have a lifespan of 30 years.

The larger domes are made of a fiberglass composite material that the company says does not emit an odor. Some sensitive people say fiberglass needs some time to offgas (1-2 years or more) and others find it OK fairly soon after production. 

The small domes are 14 feet and are made of ABS plastic, which is a really safe plastic (the same plastic the LEGO is made of). This one they say has an integrated foam component.

I would look closely at the details on the panels that have integrated foam. You would want to make sure this is not likely to leak.

If this is done well this would be much easier than trying to put foam insulation on the inside of the one-panel fiberglass domes yourself.

The integrated foam would be ideal for heating climates (cold climates).

Installing foam in the larger domes with an exterior vapor barrier is not simple in heating climate. If you are in a tropical climate this might be ideal.

6. Plastic “Lego” Home

EverBlock makes plastic blocks that fit together like lego. You can make a simple structure out of these.

It’s a safer plastic than fiberglass that is much more tolerable for the chemically sensitive.

7. Plastic Module Homes

coodo.com

There are a few designs that are using metal framing with a plastic body. I find this design extremely promising.

The Coodo above is made in Germany and can deliver all around the world.

A similar company, AluHause is American, with a show house in Palm Desert.

The downside is that fiberglass does offgas and won’t work for many sensitive folks, at least not right away.

Both have the potential to be very waterproof and mold-resistant designs. Neither one gives too much away on how it’s built exactly, so we cannot evaluate it in great detail.

Just like when looking at larger prefabs you have to go through the reconnaissance process outlined here.

Another similar model is the Haus.me which I go into more detail on in the prefab article. This one looks to be a different type of plastic, not fiberglass, though they don’t say which type. They claim that it doesn’t offgas.

Photos here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B1916GAIsFr/

8. Simple Wooden Cabins 

Solid wood very basic wood cabin


Leisure Cabins bare bone wooden cabins are made of solid wood. I see some OSB in the subfloor but that could be avoided. Opt for solid wood for the roofing as well.

There is no insulation so they would be difficult to live in in extreme temperatures.

It does not include roofing shingles and roof prepping, stains, railing, foundation, and deck or windows. You do your own wiring, plumbing, and systems as well.

This version is a thin wood wall, not very warm. And when you start to insulate something like this you start to get into a complicated design (I would not recommend insulating anything that does not have a rain screen).

In that case, I would prefer to go back to a prefab like the Unity Homes on this list which already has a well-thought-out wall system, or even design a house from scratch.

Trying to make one of these kits work with insulation is working backward from a plan that won’t likely come together in a mold preventative way in climates where heating is used.

They are produced in Canada. 

Amish Built Wood House

From Backyard Buildings in Maine, these tiny houses are a good deal. They are custom built. This one pictured is from a member of the EI groups on Facebook and I have her permission to post about it.

The house is made of local wood, non-fiberglass insulation, low VOC adhesives, a woodstove (but you could use electric heat), wired for on-grid (but can do off-grid as well), cedar siding, metal roof, and plumbing.  

This does become a complicated system to design when you add insulation.

When I tried to work with this company, it was difficult to communicate with the builders (because of lack of technology/being Amish). They were mixing some traditional building with some more modern techniques like adding exterior foam insulation and in my opinion it is not mold-safe or detailed right.

They can be moved though they are not on wheels.

When buying a shell you also want to make sure it has a vented rainscreen if you are going to insulate it, otherwise you won’t be able to build that out properly.

It’s not likely that the rainscreen, WRB, and window flashing in done right in these Amish shells or full builds that I have seen. I would not personally go with or recommend this option.

A Traditional Log Cabin

https://www.montanamobilecabins.com/projects-updates

For a thicker wood wall look at a company like Montana Mobile Cabins. This true round log cabin does not use insulation.

I much prefer this simple design than to try and insulate a wood-framed cabin. This is a much safer bet for mold prevention.

It’s not perfect as I have heard of condensation in log cabins, I would consult with a building science expert on how to make this work in your climate.

Prefab Square Log Cabins

Photo here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BJi5A7SgtDQ/

I like the thick square logs too. I like that they would fit together well. In theory, this might create a more airtight assembly which might help prevent moisture and condensation issues.

Confederation Log Homes above makes custom prefab log homes with square-cut logs. The company has been around for a long time.

This is the first log home company I would look at due to their extensive experience.

9. A Metal SIPS House

The Nomad Cube 

The Nomad Cube is a promising little metal SIPs house. It can be built out to be very non-toxic.

Metal SIPs make up the main walls and roof of the house and are made from laminated steel-EPS white styrofoam-steel. They are essentially 0-VOC and extremely resistant to mold as long as the panels stay laminated together and assuming there are no leaks into the panels.

The smaller Nomad Micro has been redesigned since I originally wrote this. That one is no longer a SIPS house. Also be sure to ask about and eliminate wood in the structure.

The Nomad Cube is 13 x 13.

You need to add: shipping (From Vancouver BC), platform/slab/or piers, installation, wiring, heat, plumbing, hot water heater, roofing membrane, interior walls, baseboards, shower door, ladder/stairs, fridge, range, and hood vent.

My most sensitive friend tested the SIPs and thought they were good. It is possible to complete the interior with non-toxic materials.

The basic design of this house is metal framing with metal SIPs. It appears in one of their videos that there is plywood in the base, which I would change.

You will need to have a building science expert review this design and help with the details along the way.

I consider this one of the most promising designs here. It’s the first option on this list I would look into for something really small and simple.

Metal SIPS homes work really well for mold and chemical sensitivities.

Make Your Own SIPS House

You can also make your own SIPS house easily and fast. This one below is made with Structall Building Systems panels. Another brand that I have seen sensitive people use is Permatherm.

These are also metal-EPS foam-metal and have an internal locking together system that allows them to quickly snap together.

In this design the panels are fully structural elements, there is no additional metal framing. The panels make up the walls and roof.

To create a long-term structure you would use siding on top of the SIPS and pour a cement slab to the same standards that you would use on a house.

But quick and dirty, you can throw up these panels fast and get away without siding if you don’t need it to last forever.

This is the fastest and safest (for both mold and chemical sensitivity) option on the list.

Art Span Inc

While I have no problems with the two above, I really like this Canadian company Art Span that makes Sip panels. It can be difficult to source the panels from the companies above and this one is easier to buy from.

They also have a couple of simple designs that are already kits. I like the little ice shack as well as the little houses.

I have a friend that built one and liked it.

Review of Boxabl SIPS House

The company Boxabl has created a metal SIPs house that has caught a lot of folks’ attention.

The main reason it has gone so viral is that it promises it all – fast, easy, cheap, resilient, and healthy.

First, is it good for chemically sensitive folks?

Yes, the basic structure of steel/foam SIPs is very safe for those with chemical sensitivities. That part has practically no offgassing.

They also use MgO board on the interior surfaces which is generally safe for most people with MCS. It’s not clear how that is attached, it’s likely glued on, which could be a problem for offgassing.

The flooring appears to be glue down vinyl, though they have described it in different ways. The countertops and tabletop are laminate. And the interior cabinetry is conventional. These three elements will contribute to offgassing of some VOCs, plasticizers, glues, and formaldehyde.

Is it a mold preventative design?

In general, metal SIPS are very resistant to mold because as long as the wall remains laminated they are immune to condensation problems. The waterproofing will depend on how well the seams are connected.

There are a number of concerns I have with this house:

  • There is a clear negative lap at the bottom of the first piece. It’s not just an exterior trim detail, it’s integral to the design. I don’t see how you would not always be battling water pooling up and soaking the wall.
  • It’s nice that it unpacks quickly into a full livable house but how are all those seams waterproofed? I do not think we have enough information on that right now.
  • Because it’s done almost entirely in a factory we would need to see a detailed factory tour to see if this is a good design. There are so many details I would want to see including how the windows and all seams are waterproofed.
  • The house, like all prefabs, needs to be seen in person, especially during installation to see if there are any vulnerable to water areas.
  • MgO and steel have not gone well together in the past. In Denmark, massive problems were caused when salts naturally leached out of MgO and corroded the metal in the buildings.
  • The website says that Boxabl “doesn’t use lumber or sheetrock” and in an email they said “we do not use wood or materials that can rot or mold”. But in multiple videos, wood appears to be the framing of the edges of the SIPs. Hidden wood in a metal-based house is a problem in my books.

For more thoughts on this prefab I have a post on this company.

EcoSteel

Ecosteel homes are made of metal-foam SIPs, but this company uses polyurethane which usually has a little bit of offgassing (from the foam, blocked by the metal but it could come through at the seams).

They have a one bedroom that is already designed. It’s 165K which only includes plans and panels.

10. Hemp House

Hemp House Pods – a simple 8 x 12 structure meant to qualify as an ADU (without a permit) is made from hemp and a wood frame. Hemp may be mold resistant in certain climates. I would likely only use this in dry climates. My post on Hempcrete has more info.

I would have this reviewed just like all the others. I would use huge overhangs and I would look more closely at a foundation type that does not wick moisture up.

The cost does not include plumbing, electrical, or the deck.

They say they go up in a week.

11. Concrete AirCrete Dome

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bq2ydnqHspm/

I reviewed the AirCrete dome for mold resilience and I have a few thoughts on it. (Note this is different from AirKrete with a “K” insulation, though it’s a very similar material).

AirCrete domes are made of a mix of concrete and a foaming agent. You can use a natural dish soap like 7th Generation.

They were originally used in tropical settings and I do think they might this is simpler in climates that don’t require heating.

Mold Preventative Design of the Roofs

I do not like any of the designs that have multiple domes coming together creating valleys where water will not drain well. In some designs, debris is even accumulating in those valleys. I would only do single domes with as steep of a slope as possible.

No valleys where water and debris collect and soaks in. This is always best practice for mold prevention in houses.

The steeper the slope the better it will shed water.

The Challenge of the Exterior Coating Creating a Vapour Barrier

The exterior is coated with waterproof exterior stucco and then acrylic or similar concrete sealer.

The coating would have to be waterproof which creates a dilemma in heating climates.

If it’s waterproof then it is usually an exterior vapor barrier, which can cause condensation and mold in climates where heating is used. This is fine to use in climates where only cooling is used.

I might put this whole structure under a second roof, like a carport (or a souped-up metal roof like this house has). That way you don’t have the conflict of the need for a waterproof but also breathable sealant on the exterior of the dome.

You may also consider a sealer that sheds water but is breathable – a layer of concrete stucco sealed with sodium silicate might work. Just like polished concrete which is vapor breathable but should shed water. Consult with a building science expert to work this out.

Can Concrete go Moldy?

Conventional wisdom is that concrete cannot mold because it’s not organic. As a mold-sensitive person, I would say every basement, most slabs, and almost every concrete building in the tropics shows otherwise.

Mold can grow in anything porous, I have found.

Slab Must be Detailed Right for Mold Prevention

It’s also incredibly important to detail the slab right for mold prevention. Slabs are very prone to going moldy in all climates and are rarely detailed properly.

Because slabs are made of concrete and the dome is concrete you also have to take extra precautions with the slab and site details to not have wicking up of water from the ground up through the structure. This could easily happen in rainy climates.

The final flooring over any slab also needs to remain breathable to the inside in best practices for mold prevention. If the slab does take on water through wicking or through water coming in through the sides it needs to dry up.

Only polished concrete, tile (including stone tile), or earthen clay floors should be used as the final floor.

Does the AirCrete Dome Work for Extreme Chemical Sensitivity?

I think this dome would work for many people with MCS.

Admixtures are used in the concrete, you would want to check those out.

The foaming agent can be a non-toxic soap if you tolerate one of those.

The interior can be finished with natural plaster which does not contain additives.

The exterior finish needs to be looked at carefully, synthetic stucco might not work for everyone who is chemically sensitive. That won’t work in most heating climates anyway. Sodium silicate is considered safe for the chemically sensitive.

The slab would have the same concerns as all slabs. You don’t have to use rigid foam in the slab in many climates, but you do need a thick vapor barrier like Stego. It needs gravel underneath and proper grading.

A polished concrete or tile floor works well for chemical sensitivities.

You can find the workshops and the tools needed to create the concrete foam mix at DomGaia.

12. Container Homes

I have not been a fan of container homes in the past because the exterior metal envelope creates a really tricky situation for condensation in every heating climate.

More on that below, but if you are somewhere where you only use AC or no heat or AC this can be just fine.

When I saw that a company is making exterior insulation for shipping containers this changed my mind on the topic. The foam contours to the container and insulating it on the exterior eliminates the condensation issue.

You will still have to detail around the window and doors, and make the steel envelope airtight (I would try to weld all seams) but I really like this idea.

A Note on Exterior Metal and Fiberglass Shells and Mold Prevention

A prefab house that has a metal or fiberglass shell that does not have a rainscreen system is extremely difficult to insulate in most climates where houses are heated. This includes container homes.

“In a cold climate during the heating season, moisture vapor inside a building is driven outward into exterior walls. When it reaches a surface that’s below the dew point, the vapor condenses into a liquid.” (source).

In this case that “surface” where moisture in the air condensates is that metal or fiberglass shell.

To try and work with this problem you need airtight insulation. This could be 2 part closed-cell polyurethane spray foam insulation. This offgasses too much for most people with chemical sensitivities. It also causes the challenges of exterior leaks going undetected. Arched Cabins has a nice design because there are no seams or permeations. The challenge here is when spray foam pulls away from the metal or fibreglass.

The second strategy is to use rigid foam insulation and make it airtight. This is also tricky. Foam can be taped or sealed with caulking or 1 part canned polyurethane spray foam, but it’s difficult to keep it airtight. And any gap of air behind the foam can have air with enough moisture to condensate in some climates.

Mold Preventative Design

Options:

  1. In heating climates, it’s easier to have a well-designed wall system that has the proper air barriers (likely no vapor barrier), and a rainscreen – in short, built like a regular house with all the complexities of the wall system but with great attention to design and execution of detail.
  2. A monolithic wall – I tend towards simple buildings that have fewer areas where mistakes can be made. Monolithic walls (a single wall, made of one solid material) is easier in this sense. Log cabins, solid concrete walls, and solid earthen walls are examples. This doesn’t mean they will work in any climate and are foolproof. You still need a building science expert (like an architect) to design the system as a whole and make sure that the wall type is properly designed and executed and well maintained.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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Using Ozone to Kill and Denature Mold

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The Effectiveness of Ozone Generators on Mold, Mycotoxins, Fragrance, and Smoke 

Ozone kills and denatures mold on surfaces, and breaks down many VOCs and odors such as perfume. It can also remediate smoke smell in certain materials. 

Ozone has also caused a lot of damage, not just to the breakdown of certain materials in a home, but it seems to exasperate some toxins, causing many people to not be able to return to their house for a long time, or ever.

This post contains affiliate links to relevant products that I use and recommend. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Please take full responsibility for your safety when using ozone. Make sure you read and understand all the precautions in this post. Full disclaimer is here.

This post has been reviewed by Tim David, HVAC professional with 30+ years experience.

Does Ozone Denature Mold and Mycotoxins?

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