These are the favorite paints and primers, vetted by the chemically sensitive, that have been used successfully to block emissions of VOCs, fragrance, smoke smells, urine, and more.
This article contains affiliate links, upon purchase I earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
1. AFM Transitional Primer
AFM Transitional Primer has been used for years by chemically sensitive folks to block various odors and chemical emissions in homes.
This falls into the category of stain-blocking primer, it forms an extremely tight polymer network which is how it blocks odors.
You can use it in combination with AFM Safecoat Zero VOC Paint, to reduce emissions from the surface.
AFM recommends one coat of Transitional primer (allow at least 24 hours to dry) and then two top coats of AFM Zero VOC paint.
They don’t recommend this combination (or any water-based sealant) to block emissions from essential oils, air fresheners, hair spray, smoke, pet urine, or other organic odors (shellac/shellac based-primers are better for those).
It does work well to seal offgassing from primers, paint (including oil-based paints), sealers, and pressed wood substrates.
For engineered woods like fiberboard, particleboard, etc, it’s usually better to use their AFM Safeseal product.
You can use it indoors or outdoors, over previously painted walls, ceilings, wood, and wood trim, fully cured plaster (below 10 pH), stucco, and masonry.
Not for new sheetrock or raw wood/wood with high tannins.
It does have some odor and low offgassing itself but most people find it is still worth it to wait for this to offgas to get the sealing effect. Make sure your temperature is between 50-80 F and your humidity is between 30-65% for it to cure.
The perm rating is not known, so we don’t know if this can cause a point of condensation in exterior walls when AC is used inside and it’s humid outside.
2. BIN Shellac Primers
This is a more conventional route but it is also non-toxic once cured.
BIN Advanced Shellac-Based Primer (water-based) and BIN Shellac-Based Primer (alcohol-based) can both are odor-blocking paints that can be used on almost any surface (though not SBR rubber, and likely not other rubbers).
The alcohol-based version is high in VOCs but that is because of the ethanol.
Alcohol is very volatile and so it offgasses very fast. It only needs 3 days for a full cure, the reps said on the phone.
The BIN Advanced, which is water-based, needs 7-10 days for a full cure. (And it starts at 96 g/l which is fairly high for a water-based paint/primer but it does seem to cure out nicely in my experience).
These block odors and offgassing from below like formaldehyde, fragrance, pet odors (including urine), smoke, musty odors, and almost any other kind of odor.
BIN Shellac is for interior use and sticks to just about anything. You can use any paint on top of it.
BIN Advanced is also for interior use.
It can be used under and over any latex or oil-based architectural paint, over bare or painted interior surfaces including wood, drywall, cured plaster, masonry, galvanized metal, and PVC, as well as over dense glossy surfaces such as enamel paints and varnishes, paneling, laminates, glass, and ceramic tile without the need for sanding or de-glossing.
This has a low perm rating and can cause a point of condensation on exterior walls, when AC is used inside in hot climates.
3. Pure Shellac
If you are too sensitive for the BIN primers then you can use pure shellac to block odors.
Shellac blocks all kinds of odors from smoke to offgassing to fragrances.
Some people have found that fragrances can bleed through again with time so be sure to test this out first. I haven’t found that to happen.
Pure shellac is made with a wax resin from a beatle, and you can mix it with Everclear alcohol. It is always at least a little bit yellow and is glossy.
It works best on wood, so if you have wood floors, or wooden furniture that has a finish that is offgassing this can work well over that.
It also works well on vinyl products, including flooring, though it does leave an obvious finish.
I’ve tested shellac on many finishes and odors and the only thing it didn’t work on was SBR rubber.
If you want to paint over it make sure to use de-waxed shellac and follow with a paint/primer that can stick to that (AFM Transitional Primer, Annie Sloan Chalk Paint, natural linseed oil paint, etc).
4. ECOS Air Purifying Primer and Paint
ECOS Air Purifying Paint and Air Purifying Primer are 0-VOC acrylic paints that contain zeolite to absorb odors.
This is not the same as physically blocking the odors with shellac or AFM Transitional Primer, but if you need a 0-VOC option or if you need a more vapor-open option than those two sealers this is the way to go.
I tested ECOS Air Purifying Primer and was not satisfied with its ability to seal in Febreeze on drywall.
However, one reader commented:
“I would not be able to move house without their air purifying paint as extremely sensitive. We used their ordinary paint for the first coat and air purifying for the second coat to save money, but they also advised us to use it this way. You use the same color for both types of paint. One coat of air-purifying paint usually works to seal all fragrance behind unless on a wall near where there has been something like scented candles, sticks, or plug-ins. In which case for that area you may need a second coat of air purifying.
I’ve found it is the only one that seals fragrances behind it. I once scratched a wall accidentally carrying a chair about 8 months after painting with air-purifying paint and from the scratch I could immediately smell laundry product. Touched up with air-purifying paint and the smell was sealed away again. That was an interesting thing to learn about how effective the paint is.”
5. Regular Paint
Regular 0-VOC acrylic paint in eggshell or a higher gloss has some slight ability to seal in odors.
This works quite well to seal in the natural odorants of wood (for those who are sensitive to the natural odor of wood).
For that purpose, regular primer and two coats of paint is usually good enough.
There is also some slight sealing of fragrance and other odors/emissions.
One chemically sensitive reader said about regular ECOS Paints:
“The rooms were previously occupied by fragrance users (scented bath soaps, cleaners, and baby powder mostly), and I’ve found the ECOS Wall Primer and two coatings of their Interior Eggshell paint weren’t enough to fully block out all of the smells stuck to the walls, but it’s been enough of a seal for me to comfortably live in these rooms.”
Note: There are also odor-blocking sealants, these are generally used for wood products to block formaldehyde and other chemicals. AFM Safeseal is for fiberboard, particleboard, and OSB (mainly to block formaldehyde). AFM PolyBP -their standard polyurethane is also a good block of many emissions including the natural odor of wood.
Corinne Segura is an InterNACHI-certified Healthy Homes Inspector with certifications in Building Biology, Healthier Materials and Sustainable Buildings, and more. She has 10 years of experience helping others create healthy homes. You can book a consult here.
Join the top Substack on healing from MCS and mold!
Kelsey
Hi Corrine! Thank you for this article and all of the comments- good to know I’m not alone here. We painted all of the cabinets/trim/doors in our home with oil-based primer and water-based paint (Sherwin Williams Pro mar) and realized about a year after how bad oil-based paint is for you! We just had the VOCs in our home tested and our VOCs/formaldehyde is super high even now a year-18 months after painting/sanding. We going to seal in the existing paint with EITHER: Zinnser BINS or AFM SafeCoat Acrylacq or the AMF primer… just having the worst time trying to make a decision because the Zinnser would be a quick easy one-coat that would for sure seal in the existing VOCs/formaldehyde and it sounds like it only off-gasses for three or so days but it’s also introducing more VOCs into our home so just using the AMF products might be a better option but they’ll require two coats and potentially not work as well? Given our situation and the fact that we’re having a baby in three months, what option would be best for us? I can absolutely stay out of the house while the Zinnser is being applied/curing, but is it truly non-toxic after it cures or is it like the oil-based primer and the Pro Mar we used that is still off-gassing a year later?
Philip Franchine
Hi, thank you for making so much information available. I’m a chemically sensitive person and leased an apartment whose owner painted it with zero VOC wall paint at my request, but allowed the painters to use low-VOC paint (Dunn Edwards Suprema) for the trim…baseboards and doorjambs etc. I have been getting headaches when I visit and I have not moved in for that reason.
is there a product we could apply on the trim, white paint or a clear product, that would seal in the low-VOC paint fumes? Other pertinent advice on this issue? I would appreciate any help, Phil
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
yes, this article goes over the options.
Kat
Hi Corinne,
I am so grateful to find your posts about paint!
We are trying to seal in the VOCs in an exterior pain that was used on our interior door trim. I am looking at AFM Safecoat (trans primer + 2 coats paint) or ECOS (air purifying primer and paint). Do you know if it would be ok to use the AFM Safecoat trans primer and then an ECOS air purifying paint as the top coat? It seems AFM Safecoat has better stats for VOC sealing (although they just tested formaldehyde) whereas ECOS has a brochure detailing multiple chemical compounds that were reduced. Curious your thoughts about mixing products, or which might be more effective (the exterior paint also contain mildewicide and likely PFAS as it is “water beading”, all of which is proprietary).
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
I believe ECOS is fine over AFM but mixing paint brands is risky I wouldnt do it. I would do AFM transitional and AFM paint in that scenario or BIN shellac and ECOS paint.
Kat
Thank you! 🙂
sandy
Thank you for all that you do.Can you please recommend an alternative to everclear alchohol for mixing the pure blonde dewaxed shellac,I cannot find it in the UK.I am extremely sensitive and is looking to use it to cover previously painted doors and skirtings which I am badly reacting to and which have kept me out of the area of my living space where the paints were used for almost a year now.
The pure shellac paint in your article isnt available in the Uk,only the bin shellac is and I do not know if it will be good for very sensitive person like me?
I am looking to shellac but also repaint over as well.
What paint would you recommend to use to paint over the shellac after sealing?I will not be doing the job myself but will be in the house.Pls help
Thank you
Sandy
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
I mention the paints in the article. as for Everclear equivalent I don’t know what they have in the UK, you will have to look into that.
sandy
Thank you ,
D
There is ethanol and methylated spirit here in the UK.Which of them do you think will be suitable for a sensitive person to mix with the pure shellac flakes?
Thank you
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
probably ethanol but people’s sensitivities can be very individual
Asoka Diggs
Do you have an article with more details about using shellac to seal in offgassing chemicals? I’ve seen the idea come up in numerous places and am beginning my own investigation into shellac (starting with – is it tolerable on its own).
I’m wondering about surfaces that work particularly well, or particularly badly (and why). What concentration or cut do you use for this purpose when mixing your own.
Application methods – I’ve read that it can be applied as a spray, though haven’t found any details about that. Most apply using a paint brush or pad.
My own reading has led me to use 99% isopropyl alcohol with dewaxed blond shellac – at least this is what I’m trying first. Most woodworkers talk about using denatured alcohol which I won’t be doing. Everclear in states that permit the sale of 190 proof alcohol is an option, but I’m considering this like paint, and I can get 4 gallons of the 99% iso for $70 on Amazon.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
You can use traditional wood working websites for the information on how to mix it and how to apply it. as for tolerability, alcohol fumes are always harsh so you may need a non sensitive person to apply it. once the alcohol evaporates it’s good for most people but you do also have to test your tolerability of the shellac flakes (or cured shellac) to make sure it’s good for you.
Laura
Hi. I just purchased a lot of Benjamin Moore Eco-Spec paint due to asthma and sensitivities and my daughter’s neuro-auto-immune issues. I was feeling good about it — no smell at all. Today, without my knowledge, my contractor’s painters used an oil-based Kilz primer (possibly Original interior/exterior primer) on new doors and molding that was unsealed wood and probably some MDF (hopefully it was not used on walls too). I’m so upset! I opened the door just for a minute or two and it was unbearable. The SDS sheets on this product are very concerning too.
I’m guessing we’ll need to use an AFM Safecoat product to seal in the primer. Which one? How long do we have to wait for curing and off-gassing first? Is it still possible to use the Eco-Spec after the AFM product? I know it’s not ideal to mix brands, but we’re desperate and can’t afford to lose over $700 on non-returnable Eco-Spec, along with paying extra labor now. We are already nearly broke from a former contractor’s negligence and we were finally a month away from moving home after being away 8 months (instead of our budgeted 3 months). Any advice is appreciated, Corinne — thank you! By the way, I am a Substack subscriber.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
this post goes over the blocking options, but you are right to have the thought to not mix brands. I especially would not mix AFM with another latex paint. You have to test the combo first, but in this case I would test out shellac based primer + eco spec.
Laura
Thanks for replying, Corrine! I found out the Kilz Original was applied to 3 previously-stained doors but nowhere else, with a layer of Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic acrylic-alykd water-based paint on top, so I was able to stop more Kilz oil-based from being used. (The paint isn’t fantastic, but less of a worry overall and much lower VOCs per the SDS; it takes about 4 weeks to fully off-gas according to my local Sherwin-Williams store.) I can use the Eco-Spec on walls.
I also called Kilz (now owned by Behr) and they said to leave the doors as-is for 30+ days for curing to be complete, and to encourage faster off-gassing with ventilation/open windows in dry weather, and heat during that time (keeping temps. between 40 – 90F — ideally 70-80F — and humidity close to 50% or less). (For anyone wondering, they also said that water-based Kilz primer can usually work, even on raw wood, but may require 2 coats.)
I also talked with someone at Zinnser (Rust-Oleum) and they confirmed that we should wait 30+ days before using the B.I.N. synthetic shellac for sealing. After curing in a month or so, if there is still an odor — or concern about continued off-gassing — then we can think about sealing the primer and/or paint. Until then, & after if smells are still bothersome, they also said to periodically place fans in windows facing outwards to blow the air outside and keep windows open as much as possible. The Sherwin Williams store mentioned using a commercial air scrubber, home HEPA air filters, and/or charcoal bags that absorb VOCs and odors as additional ways to reduce lingering smells and VOCs.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
yes this is good advice. you could also move the doors to a garage to offgas or replace them.
Brian
Hello. Thanks for the help. I used AFM Safe coat paint and its been 6 weeks and still smells . It also burns my throat. The company said that it can react with the paint underneath and while it’s rare this can happen. What is my best way out of this? Thinking Shellac but it’s a large interior space. Open to anything at this point. Thanks so much.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
it depends on what went wrong. another thing that can go wrong is applying the coats too close together, this can cause it to not cure. painting over that reaction is not a good idea. it’s also possible that you are just super sensitive and that it is curing normally. some people find AFM takes many weeks to offgas in which case a bake out is the way to go.
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
also see the latest interview i just did with andy pace on my chemical free house facebook page, we talked about this is quite a lot of detail
Kay
hi Corinne! thanks for your article. we recently painted our kitchen and now realize the stain paint has 95 voc in the description and the off gassing has been irritating. I’m considering how best to seal that or if I should try to use the high heat method and ventilation to speed up the off gassing and move out the air. which option do you recommend? but even if the paint smell is no longer noticeable it may still be off gassing for long periods right?
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
if you mean a stain blocking paint used on the walls, yes i would give it as much time plus heat and air as you can before painting over that with another paint to block it. once you block it it wont be 100% blocked so it will still offgas slowly through the new layer.
Brooke
Hi Corinne!
The cabinetry throughout my entire home was painted with oil based paint. At the time I wasn’t sensitive, but now I am and the paint really bothers me. Is there a VOC blocker that can be used on oil based paints?
Thanks so much!
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
shellac based primers or afm transitional
Gina
Hi Corinne, I have lots of exposed raw particle board and MDF at the top of my kitchen cabinets and some of the framing inside the of the cabinets. Would AFM poly BP be enough to block formaldehyde or should I use a pure shellac? These areas aren’t visible so not concerned about how it looks and I don’t need to paint over it. Thanks!
Corinne Segura, Building Biologist
AFM safeseal and or shellac
Alicia Sykes
Greetings.
This is so helpful…I painted my kitchen cabinets that had VOc’s. Before repainting with a non Voc product, do I need to use one of these primers, or just correct it with the non toxic cabinet paint? Appreciate your response.
Corinne Segura
If you want to block VOCs from a previous coating that is offgassing use one of the BIN primers first, let that fully cure, then do a non-toxic paint.
Alicia Sykes
Appreciate you. I’m buying you coffee! Stay tuned. 🙂
Christine
Hi Corinne,
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. Very helpful for us to whom living a non-toxic life is critical!
I had a laundry detergent leak from attic to the 1st floor ceiling, and the odor has been bothering me for more than half a year. So glad to see there are actually primers that can cover the odor.
When searching for BIN Advanced Shellac-Based Primer, I came across “Zinsser Odor Killing Interior Multi-purpose Water-based Wall and Ceiling Primer”, which seems to be designed specifically for odor blocking. Shall I buy the latter? I would highly appreciate your professional opinion!
Warm regards,
Christine
Corinne Segura
if the material is moldy you have to remove it. if not moldy you can use one of the BIN shellac products.
sarah
Hi corinne,
Which one of these do you think will be best to use to block chemical leaching into the air after mistakenly using low voc antimicrobial treated wood paint on MDF interior doors which is causing reaction?Unable to stay in the space since the painting.
Thanks
Corinne Segura
Shellac or a shellac based primer is best there. but ideally let it offgas a bit first, at least for a week or two.