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building materials

Testing for Lead in Tiles, Faucets, Bathtubs and other Building Materials

May 19, 2020 by Corinne Leave a Comment

This is a guest post by Shannon from Natural Baby Mama. I asked Shannon if she would write a guest post because her extensive testing of lead in household products and material revealed worrisome levels of lead in products that many presumed were safe.

Her contributions uncovered what companies were not telling us, has brought attention to the issues, and even caused some companies to improve their practices.

This post focuses on common building materials used in new builds and renos that often contain lead and how to test them.

– Corinne

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.


Why Lead in Household Products is Still a Concern

I began researching the risks of lead when my first child was born, and we were living in an older home. I learned that lead is in many things in our homes: from consumer goods to toys, kitchen products, and building materials. 

Lead is a neurotoxin that can cause permanent brain damage in children (Source).

While lead can be found in all types of products today, I’m going to focus on what I’ve learned about lead in building materials. In addition, I’ll share with you how you can test your materials and products for lead.

Disclaimer: These statements are my own opinion and are based on my personal research over the past 8 years. I am not liable or responsible for any outcomes you have based on this article. Please always consult with the proper professionals when seeking guidance and do your own due diligence as well.

I was shocked to find that lead was so prevalent in our old home, and some of our consumer goods, but I was more shocked to learn that lead is still commonly found in new building materials that you can buy off the shelves today.

I became aware of lead being used in building materials after we moved and did a non-toxic remodel. There was no easy way to get an answer if a product had lead. At that time, I reached out to companies to find out if their product was lead-free. Several companies responded back in writing that they were. 

Later, I tested these items and found they had lead. I realized then that I needed to personally test materials and products.

Over the past 8 years, I have tested many hundreds of items for lead using an XRF analyzer. This has included building materials and many other household products and consumer goods.

For more information on how people are being lead poisoned today and how to test yourself for lead exposure, please see my post Lead Poisoning and Prevention Strategies.

How to Test Building Materials for Lead

There are two primary ways to test for lead, 3M LeadCheck Swabs and XRF testing.

3M LeadCheck Swabs

3M LeadCheck Swabs are a great tool to use to test a variety of materials. They work best for paint, lead dust, or on scored or broken materials. 

3M LeadCheck Swabs are designed to detect down to 600 ppm (parts per million) of lead. That means you might not get a positive reading if your item is less than 600 ppm. The allowable limit for lead in children’s items is 90 ppm, to put this in perspective.

3M LeadCheck Swabs are not intended for testing items that fall outside of their testing capability. 

For example, if you use a LeadCheck Swab on your cookware with a lead-free glaze, you will most likely get a negative reading. The swabs need to have direct contact with lead to work properly.

If you test paint with a LeadCheck Swab, it is only testing what it comes in contact with. So if you have lead paint under 3 layers of new paint, a swab will not be able to identify the lead paint layers below.

Similarly, with ceramic tile if the lead is under the glaze it will not pick it up. (Sometimes the lead is in the glaze layer and sometimes it’s underneath).

3M recommends scoring your product to test so that you can reach the inner layers. I personally do not score or scrape lead paint as I do not want to create lead dust.

If you break a product, like tile, to get access to the inner layers you potentially will exposure yourself and your environment to lead dust. If you have cracking tile with dust you might be able to use a lead swab. 

With LeadCheck Swabs, if you get a positive reading that is indicative of leachable lead.

3M details how to use their swabs on their website, please reference it before you use their product for accurate results.

Where To Buy

3M LeadCheck Swabs are inexpensive and widely available. You can find them at major hardware stores like Home Depot and on Amazon.

XRF Testing

The vast majority of my testing has been done using an XRF Analyzer.

Handheld XRF machines are highly calibrated precision instruments used to accurately detect lead and other elements (including other heavy metals). 

Trained professionals typically operate them. However, some places will rent to individuals. 

I have had a lot of experience seeing an XRF in use and have been trained on how to use the XRF from the company I rented from; however, I am not professionally trained or certified to use the XRF.

What To Look For in an XRF Analyzer

There are several types of XRF machines available and multiple brands. I used a Niton with consumer goods mode which tests in parts per million. 

Consumer goods mode (the ability to test consumer goods, as opposed to say soil or other materials) and the ability to test in ppm are both extremely important if you are considering renting a machine. 

In my opinion, if you test in other modes or increments you may not get accurate readings. I personally would not pay for testing if I couldn’t get readings in ppm.

Safety of XRF Machines

There are two types of XRF machines on the market: Radioactive and Non-Radioactive.

  • Non-Radioactive XRF: The Niton XRF I have rented is non-radioactive but it does use x-ray technology to test. As we all know, x-rays emit radiation. Each test is under a minute. Per Niton, using their non-radioactive XRF equals approximately one medical or dental x-ray.(Niton used to have a reference of how many hours of use would equal approximately one medical x-ray but that information is no longer on their website). I personally have stopped testing items using an XRF due to my concerns over the exposure to x-ray radiation. Some knowledge of how to use the tool safely and accurately is needed and this article is not intended to provide that training.
  • Radioactive XRF: This machine is radioactive and requires special training and protective gear to use. This is not something you would ever rent. Most professionals you would hire to test do not use the radioactive XRF, but it’s always a good idea to confirm.

How to Rent an XRF

Renting an XRF is quite expensive. A 24-hour rental is in the $400 range.  

To find a place that rents an XRF for personal use, I would use Google and search XRF rental. I have previously rented from Pine Environmental.  

To hire someone to come out to test costs a little less than renting one yourself. Depending on who it is and where you are located, it could be $100-200 for a few hours.

Those operating a XRF analyzer should be fully versed in its uses, limitations and risks. This article does not cover the training needed to operate this machine, and should not be taken as an endorsement of using one without training.

Lead in Building Products

For all the materials below, I would typically test with an XRF analyzer. A LeadCheck Swab may or may not work properly on these materials since direct lead contact is needed for swabs to work. 

When I know there could potentially be direct lead contact then I use a swab.

It’s important to note that just because a product contains lead, it does not always mean that it will leach lead and cause harm to your family. However, it might and that is the reason to be lead aware.

The products I discuss below are the ones I have found to have lead. I’ve tested products in a variety of price ranges and from a variety of stores. If something is expensive or not, it does not lessen the chance that lead was used in the manufacturing.

This is not a comprehensive list of all products that contain lead, nor do all products listed here always contain lead. This is based on external research and studies, as well as personal testing by me, Shannon.

Faucets

In the United States, if your faucets were purchased prior to 2014 they likely contain lead.

New faucets that are used for drinking water (kitchen or bathroom sink) are now “lead-free” due to the 2014 Safe Drinking Water ACT. Note, lead-free does allow for up to 0.25% weighted average of lead. This level considered safe and personally is not a concern for me.

A tub faucet, for example, is not required to be lead-free but you can find lead-free options. 

Look for faucets that are using internal components made of lead-free brass.

If you are concerned about lead in your kitchen faucet and your water, you can easily test your drinking water for lead. Most major cities have water quality testing labs. Google your city and water testing. Testing is fast and relatively inexpensive.  

There are also labs that you can mail a water sample to like National Testing Laboratories. Return shipping is not included so calculate that into your testing cost (I paid $60 to return my comprehensive water test to them).

If you find that you have lead in your water a simple solution may be switching out your faucet and getting a good quality water filter. After doing those steps, test your water again.  

Lighting Fixtures

Many lighting fixtures contain lead. Often the lead is in the wiring but it can also be in the glass or in the housing. When installing I would recommend wearing gloves, then dispose of the gloves after. 

As a note, this also applies to stand-alone lighting (floor or desk lamps). We tested some new bedside lamps that came back with high levels of lead.

Lamps that you touch regularly could be tested for lead. Avoid brass.

Bathtubs

Some bathtubs may contain lead, especially porcelain-coated cast iron or steel tubs. 

Generally, it is older bathtubs that have lead in the porcelain coating. As the coating erodes over time, or if there are any chips or cracks, lead can leach into the bathwater. This can be a source of lead poisoning.

Kitchen Sinks

I personally buy stainless steel kitchen sinks because porcelain in general can have lead.

I have not personally tested kitchen sinks but I had a company confirm that there was lead in one particular porcelain sink I was interested in. The same company had a lead free porcelain bathroom sink.

See above under bathtubs for additional information on porcelain.

Brass Items

Generally, brass has lead. I’ve tested brass that is in the 50,000 ppm range but there are various ranges of lead in brass. Lead-free brass is available but it is more expensive and rare. 

Brass can be used in many household items and is often used as the underlayer with a coating on top. If a non-leaded coating is intact the lead is (generally) contained.

An example could be a satin-finished drawer handle or your lighting fixtures.

Doorknobs

Doorknobs can contain lead. This is either due to brass being used or older leaded crystal knobs. Many doorknobs are also lead-free! 

Stick with stainless steel if possible. From what I have tested, plated nickel is often lead-free, though not always. Oil rubbed bronze is considered a living finish and will rub off exposing the leaded brass underneath (if that is used). 

Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tile is the most common household tile and is by far the most likely to have lead. In fact, finding lead-free ceramic tile can be challenging. Porcelain tile is a type of ceramic tile.

To find lead free tile, you can reach out to the company specifically to ask if they have tested for lead and request to see their test report. 

Unfortunately, I have multiple experiences where a company stated their tile was lead-free, and when I tested the tile it had lead. The tiles I have tested has been in the range of 200 ppm to over 1,000 ppm of lead.

Another thing to mention about tile is that many have antimicrobials properties added to them. 

How To Test Your Tile

In my experience, any lead-free glazes on a tile would create a barrier that would prevent a 3M LeadCheck swab from being positive if there was lead in the tile. Lead can be found in the glaze of tile or it could be under a clear, lead-free glaze.

I don’t recommend breaking tile and creating potential lead dust just for the sake of testing. 

You may be able to use swabs on the bottom of a new piece of tile. These are typically left unglazed. 

The LeadCheck Swabs test down to 600 ppm lead, if the tile was below that range you would get a negative on the swab.

If you want to know if a tile has lead or not, a good way to test is with an XRF tool. Another option would be going with the assumption that your tile has lead and proceeding with lead-safe practices.

How To Install or Remove Tile In Your Home

The risk for lead exposure comes from removing your existing tile and cutting tile.   

Removing Tile

First, I would decide if removing the tile is worth it for you. If you are doing a remodel that involves removing tile you risk contaminating your entire home with lead dust if you don’t handle it properly. 

This risk extends beyond tile if you live in an older home with other lead concerns.

If you proceed with removing tile, I would follow lead containment protocols in the work area and seek out the advice of lead containment professionals.

You can buy 3M lead wipes and I personally would test the dust in your home before and after your remodel.

Cutting tile

  • Always wet cut your tile. Never allow anyone to dry cut.  
  • Always cut outside and away from your home, never inside your home.
  • Have workers remove shoes or put on booties before coming into your home.
  • Plastic off walkways to the area they are working in. 

Final Thoughts

These are some simple steps to reduce your lead exposure in building materials and during remodels. I hope you have found this information helpful in guiding you to make your home healthy.

I have compiled some of the many items I have tested in a series of posts: Things I Have Tested for Lead, Things I Have Tested for Lead Part 2, and Lead in Stainless Water Bottles.  

About Natural Baby Mama

My name is Shannon, and I am a natural living blogger that focuses on non-toxic living for the entire family. As I’ve navigated the non-toxic living world, I’ve researched everything from kitchen items, toys, clothes, building materials, and everything in between. You can find more information on the Natural Baby Mama website.

Filed Under: Healthy Building, Healthy Interiors Tagged With: building materials

Healthy Non-Toxic Flooring for Vans, Trailers (and other Metal or Fiberglass Homes)

April 12, 2020 by Corinne 2 Comments

Metal and fiberglass homes have unique challenges with thermal bridging and humidity, and often require waterproof flooring that can hold up to some moisture.

Usually, vinyl sheet flooring is used in trailers and RVs. Vinyl sheeting has significant offgassing. The post outlines healthier options.

The following list is the flooring I would specify in vans, metal trailers, fiberglass trailers, and any other tiny house made of metal (like SIPS), plastic or fiberglass.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

1. Odorless Sheet Flooring (Non-Vinyl)

UPO Xpression and Zero Tile are two odorless plastic based sheet floorings. These are an excellent alternative to vinyl sheet/rolls.

The company UPO is part of Kahrs, a company many like for their engineered wood flooring.

These UPO floors are made from minerals and the plastics TPE and polyolefin. Polyolefin in this case almost certainly means PE (polyethylene) and/or PP (polypropylene). They don’t use any plasticizer and there is no PVC.

I was impressed and I was happy to see a healthy alternative to PVC sheet flooring. I even found these much lower in offgassing than luxury vinyl plank (LVP).

These do require a glue though. You would have to test that when comparing this to other options. LVP comes in a click down which eliminates the need for glue.

In all trailers that I have seen, glue down flooring is used, and it’s almost always vinyl sheet.

2. Bio-Based Polyurethane

This product is the only one on the list that is a commercial order. It’s by Shaw Contract.

Bio-Based polyurethane means it’s made of 90% natural oils (but not linseed). It barely has an odor. It also contains minerals. The backing gives off just slightly more odor than the top – the backing contains PE and fibreglass. 

While it’s not available to individual homeowners, it’s a product we can push for in mass produced trailers, schools, offices and other places where vinyl sheet might normally be used.

When demand goes up it will likey become available for smaller orders.

3. Odorless Mineral-Based Vinyl

UPO Quartz Tile is a stiffer tile than the Xpression and Zero Tile. It’s made of quartz mineral and PVC. With no pthalates and no DHEP.

I tested this product before I knew it was PVC and was quite surprised when I found out what it was made of. Going based on offgassing, this is my top choice alongside the Xpression and Zero tile.

I have never tested another vinyl product with such minimal offgassing.

I did not like this company’s Safety Floor, which is a flexible vinyl that had too high offgassing for me.

This video compares Quartz Tile, Xpression, Zero Tile and Shaw Contract Bio-Based polyurethane:

4. Natural Linoleum

Marmoleum can be used in some metal or fiberglass spaces.

The Marmoleum sheet has jute on the back. The tiles have a polyester backing, which makes it more suitable for a trailer. Marmoleum click is not that different from laminate floor with a wood (HDF) substrate. I wouldn’t use that in a trailer.

With Marmoleum, I would make sure you have plenty of insulation underneath and an underlayment with a thermal break to prevent condensation.

Marmoleum is made from linseed, binders, wood flour, limestone and dry pigments which are mixed and then calendared onto a natural jute backing. It’s got a UV cured sealer on top.

This is the glue used to install it. Not everyone tolerates it but they do claim it’s 0 VOC. It does contain biocides. I do not know of any alternative that can used with this product.

I found that after one month the odor all but disappeared from the product – though many people say the odor never disappears 100%, but rather it comes out when heated.

5. Luxury Vinyl Plank or Tile (LVP, LVT)

Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) is much more tolerable than people generally think. Though it’s not as good as the options above.

It is very low-VOC, and most of it is phthalate-free now. A benefit over other options here is that much of LVP is click together and doesn’t require adhesive.

I tested Armstrong and Cali Bamboo brands – both surprised me in how low the offgassing was. I also tried the brands you can find at Home Depot which I review here. Armstrong and Cali Bamboo are still my top choices.

More details on my brand comparisons in my main flooring post.

Double-check on all brands to make sure it’s virgin (not recycled) vinyl. I prefer phthalate-free but other plasticizers can be problematic too. This flooring can also contain metals. I discuss that issue more here.

6. Vinyl/Wood Hybrid

A new type of flooring, Opti-Floor is a vinyl core, just like LVP with real wood on top.

I was pleasantly surprised when I bought a sample. I did not pick up any offgassing (though I’m not sure how old this sample was). It seemed to not have the plasticizer odor/offgassing of LVP.

It also did not have the strong odor of a wood substrate or even of a typical wood stain on top.

If you need a waterproof base this can go over metal or other damp areas.

The wood on top is of course not going to be able to take huge amounts of water, but you won’t have water and wood trapped together somewhere where you can’t see it.

7. Magnetic Tiles

I tested Kablan’s magnetic ceramic tiles. These are ceramic tiles with a magnetic backing. The other side of the magnet is an underlayment that is glued down to the floor. No thinset or grout here.

I found they the magnetic backing components did have a moderately strong smell, though you may not be able to smell them at all (or very much) once the floor is installed.

I have a video review of them here.

These are much lighter than regular tiles. They have made them even lighter since I made that video. It might not work for many structures on wheels but it can work in more stationary homes including metal or fiberglass modular homes where you would want real tile.

8. Limestone & Polyester Tiles

I tested Armstrong’s Bio-Flooring, both Striations BBT and Migrations BBT. These are a rigid tile flooring that can replace vinyl, though they are glue down.

They are made from 85% limestone, polyester and a polymer (plastic) made from corn. I was surprised by the level of offgassing here. I was expecting it to be much lower. This is not something would be able to use in my home.

Whether it’s better than LVP I think would be very individual. I didn’t think so.

9. Simple or Unusual Floor Coverings

Metal sheets:

Metal sheets can be the final flooring in a customized trailer or metal SIPS house. They could be painted with AFM Metal Primer with different designs for a pretty effect, or covered with rugs or mats listed below.

Flooring made for Decks and Garages

These come in plastic and wood/plastic. The wood could be real solid wood or a composite, a lot like wood decking products. You would likely have to check out a sample to see if this works for you.

I like these because they allow an air gap on a floor where you couldn’t put a flooring right on the substrate. This would apply to concrete slabs that were not poured properly (like most garages, sheds) and metal floors. The downside is it would be a pain to have to lift them all the time to clean underneath.

  • All plastic polypropylene click together tiles like GarageTrac as the rigid final floor covering.
  • Hard plastic with real wood on top.

Plastic Sheets, Carpets and Mats:

  • Hard plastic sheets (polycarbonate or acrylic) as a structural floor layer.
  • Plastic carpet (non-vinyl) as a non slip layer.
  • Rolls of flexible silicone as a cover over metal.
  • Silleather (silicone leather) floor covering.
  • EVA mats (this formamide free one) as a final floor covering.
  • Polyethene with polyurethane leather playmate, a very cushiony “rug”!
  • TPU mats as a floor covering or non slip “rug”
  • Rubber flooring if tolerable.
  • Non-toxic yoga mats, like TPE as a rug or floor covering.

Where you might need these flooring types?

Floors of metal vans. Metal and fiberglass trailers – both conventional and custom made.

Metal and fiberglass tiny or modular homes, including metal SIP homes.

Some of these might apply to boats or other homes on water.

In these living spaces organic flooring like wood, engineered wood and laminate are not usually used.

It’s preferable to have an inorganic flooring that holds up to condensation, leaks, spills and high humidity.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: building materials, tiny homes and trailers

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Hi, I’m Corinne, I am a Certified Building Biologist Practitioner with 6 years of experience helping people create healthy homes.

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