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My Chemical-Free House

A Guide to Creating a Healthy Home

  • Healthy Building
    • Insulation
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      • Drywall Mud & Wall Texture
    • Showers
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    • Pressed Wood Products
    • Sheathing & Subfloor
    • Pipes
    • Alternative Building Systems
    • Non-Toxic Prefabs
    • Building for the Chemically Sensitive
    • How to Test Materials
  • Healthy Interiors
    • Flooring
      • Gym Flooring
      • Flooring Underlayment
    • Kitchen Cabinets
    • Countertops
    • Mattresses
    • Sofas
    • Leather Furniture
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    • Sealers
      • Paint
      • Mineral Paints
      • Linseed & Tung Oil
      • Natural Wood Pigments
      • Natural Plaster
      • Natural Countertop Sealers
      • Concrete Sealers
      • Wood Finishes
    • Bathroom
      • Bathroom Vanities
    • Rugs
    • Wallpaper
    • Kitchen Appliances
    • Heaters
    • Reduce Flame Retardants
    • Reduce New Home Offgassing
    • Reduce Fragrance & Smoke
    • Air Purifiers for VOCs
    • Cleaning Products & Air Fresheners
    • Personal Care Products
    • Green Certifications
    • Gift Guide
  • Exteriors & Gardens
    • Decking Materials
    • Deck Stains
    • Deck Cleaners
    • Exterior Paints
    • Sealant for Concrete Birdbaths
  • Tiny Homes & Trailers
    • List: Simple Homes & Shelters
    • List: Trailers & RVs
    • List: Emergency Housing
    • Cargo Van Conversion
    • All Metal Tiny Home
    • Simple Insulated Shelter
    • All Aluminum Travel Trailer
    • Cargo Trailer Conversion
    • Teardrop Trailer
    • Tiny House Systems
    • Flooring for Vans, Trailers
    • Composting Toilets
    • How to Get Rid of That New Car Smell (Step by Step)
    • Building for Chemically Sensitivity
  • Mold Prevention
    • A Detailed Mold Preventative Build
    • How “High Performance” can Help Prevent Mold
    • The Causes of Mold in Tiny Houses
    • Mold Testing Overview
    • Ozone to Kill Mold
    • Air Purifiers for Mold
  • Extreme Sensitivities
    • Healing MCS – Interview with Solona
    • How I Recovered from Chemical Sensitivities
    • Emergency Housing for Chemical and Mold Sensitivity

Search Results for: non-toxic drywall mud and wall texture

Non-Toxic Drywall Mud and Wall Texture

May 31, 2020 by Corinne 26 Comments

1. Joint Compound / Drywall Mud

drywall on a wall that is mudded at the seams and screw holes

While there are many zero-VOC or extremely low VOC drywall muds available at regular outlets, the highly chemically sensitive will need to be selective here.

When you are only mudding the seams you just need a simple dry mix joint compound. Dry mixes are almost always lower odor, lower VOC, and healthier choices than premixed mud.

This post contains affiliate links. Upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Powdered Mix (aka Setting Type or Hot Mud)

a bag of USG Easy Sand 20

Powdered drywall muds are zero-VOC, but they can still contain additives that could be bothersome for some.

All-Purpose

All-Purpose type compound is used as the first step (and can be the only type used) in setting the tape in the seams. This type has the least amount of additives.

I used Murco All-Purpose as a joint compound and found it totally tolerable. This one is marketed towards the chemically sensitive. They claim no preservative/biocide, no vinyl, and only inert fillers.

I don’t have a problem with more conventional brands of all-purpose compound if they are dry mix.

Setting Type

For mudding the seams you can also use a setting type. This is the drywall mud referred to as hot mud.

I like USG Sheetrock Brand Lightweight Setting-Type Joint Compounds EASY SAND 20, as well as 30, 45, 90, 210, 300. Get a small amount on Amazon to test it out. You can also use Easy Sand as a spackle, to fix minor holes.

This is a conventional brand joint compound for the seams that you can easily find at hardware stores and even on Amazon.

Murco makes HA 100 which is also a setting type compound.

Setting type is used with fiberglass tapes.

Topping Compound

Topping compound is used in finishing layers and it contains vinyl acetate. This is used for final coats, not for embedding the tape. It comes in dry mix and ready mix.

USG Topping compound is ready mix but it is only 2 g/l VOC, close to zero. If your contractor won’t use a dry mix, this is a good one.

Choosing a Brand

Dry mix joint compound does not usually contain biocides or fillers that would be declared as VOCs on the SDS.

I’m not convinced there is a difference between Murco and brands from the hardware store like USG, when it comes to All-Purpose and Setting Type compound. Though it can be difficult to find a conventional brand dry mix All-Purpose compound.

If you are chemically sensitive I would compare samples from different brands.

What are the Additives in Drywall Mud:

  • The main mineral components of drywall mud are known as the fillers. These are limestone, mica, attapulgite, quartz, and talc.
  • All-purpose compound usually contains clay.
  • Topping compound usually contains vinyl acetate.
  • Dry mix drywall mud traditionally contained casein or soy protein as the binder. New muds can contain polyvinyl acetate (PVA) and soluble polyvinyl alcohol.
  • Polyoxyethylenearyl is a plasticizer for the polyvinyl acetate.
  • Thickening agents include hydroxyethyl cellulose/starch, methylcellulose, natural gums such as gum arabic.
  • Asbestos is no longer added to drywall mud and is not found as a contaminant either.

Source, Source, & Source

Pre-Mixed (aka Ready-Mix or Drying Type)

a pail of DAP Wallboard Joint Compound

The powder form is always preferred to the pre-mixed for those avoiding toxins.

But even pre-mixed can be found in extremely low-VOC formulations. I have found it does offgas VOCs, and certainly more than the dry mix alternative.

This type typically contains polyvinyl acetate, ethylene-vinyl acetate, or acrylic vinyl acetate polymer (or a combination).

Lightweight compounds can contain glass microspheres or expanded perlite.

Reduced dust or low dust drywall mud can include a wax or oil and a surfactant. 

Biocides should be expected in all pre-mixed formulations. Triazinetriethanol is common.

If the mix contains calcium sulfate hemihydrate (gypsum) or plaster then they also contain additional chemicals.

Source

The most sensitive should use the powdered form. Contractors prefer pre-mixed, so be sure to specify dry mix.

Spackle

Spackle is very similar to drywall mud, but this term indicates a premixed mud that is made to repair small holes. It contains binders and additives that make it dry faster with less shrinkage. The lightweight type will likely contain a vinyl, and the all-purpose an acrylic.

I personally found the odor to be rather strong when I was sensitive to chemicals. Though for very small repairs this might be inconsequential for many people.

You can use some powdered joint compounds like Easy Sand and Murco to make small repairs to walls. More info in the post on non-toxic spackle. (Note the opposite is not true: you can’t use premixed spackle as a joint compound.)

Drywall Tape

a roll of Paper Drywall Joint Tape

Paper-backed drywall can be taped with paper or fiberglass tape.

Paperless drywall can also usually be taped with either type.

Though the paper tape is fairly benign, you might want to check out a few brands if you are highly sensitive. It can contain a polymer and n-ODSA.

Regular paper tape does not contain an adhesive.

Fiberglass tape is self-adhering and is used with setting compound (the dry mix).

The extremely chemically sensitive should check out a few brands and choose the most tolerable one. But most people will not have to worry about the tapes at all.

2. Wall and Ceiling Texture

a close up of ceiling texture

Just like with joint compound, when adding texture you want to use dry mix where possible as this contains fewer additives.

USG Brand

USG Sheetrock Spray Texture is a good one. This is a spray-on texture that can create spatter, spatter/knockdown, and orange peel designs.

The main ingredient is calcium carbonate. The binder is amylum and/or polyvinyl alcohol.

Though PVA and EVA are both generally well tolerated, they are not tolerated by all.

The fungicide is zinc dimethyldithiocarbamate. The VOCs are listed as 0 g/l.

If your contractor wants to do a roll-on (not spray-on) texture with a premixed mud that is watered down, I would suggest going with an option that uses a dry mix as a base.

Murco Brand

Murco, a company that makes drywall mud aimed at the chemically sensitive, makes two main “hypoallergenic” products, M100 (all-purpose compound) and HA100 (a setting compound). They claim there is no vinyl in these products.

All-purpose compound is best for embedding the tape and filling nail and screw holes.

The basic M 100 can be used for most spray-on textures. But if the texture is thick or heavy, they recommend the HA 100.

If you can’t get the desired look with these two products, Murco has a line of dry mix texture products. These contain more additives.

The powdered texture products, like M 1400, have better “stand up” and better resistance to pinholes.

Always encourage your contractor to talk to the company if it’s a product they have not used before. And when adding any kind of texture avoid the premixed formulations if you can.

I would look for a contractor who is already familiar and skilled with working with dry mixed products to get the look you are after.

To smooth out an orange peel texture you can skim coat over it.

3. Skim Coating

a person with a trowel skin coating a wall

Fiberglass-backed gypsum requires skim coating. Skim coating may also be a desired finish on paper-based drywall.

Murco

The Murco M 100 and even the HA 100 can both be used for skim coating. You will want to find a contractor who has experience with skim coating with dry mix compounds.

You might also want to have your contractor talk with the company first as well.

USG

USG Durabond is a dry mix that can be used for skim coating. If the contractor is skilled at applying skim coating with dry mix this can be used for every layer. USG advises that you can achieve a level 5 finish with this.

Normally, the final layer would be a wet mix like USG’s All-Purpose or Plus 3.

Finding a Contractor who will Skim Coat with Dry Mix

Generally, this will be more labor-intensive than using ready-mix compounds. And you may find your contractor saying that it could crack.

But if you find someone with experience in this field you should be able to find someone that will give you realistic outcomes and guarantee their work.

You may have to touch up areas that crack.

4. Plaster

a person with a trowel skim coating over a concrete wall

There are four main types of plaster, clay-based, lime-based, gypsum-based, and concrete.

I have a post that goes over all the plaster types.

Here is a detailed post on my experiences using clay plaster and lime wash in my tiny house.

In the more conventional realm, Plaster of Paris which is gypsum-based, can be highly tolerable. The USG brand comes recommended by sensitive folks and can be found at hardware stores like Home Depot.

Cement is also used as a plaster finish on concrete or other masonry walls.

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

Filed Under: Healthy Building Tagged With: Healthy building, healthy interiors

Clay Based Paints (For Walls) – My Testing & Review

March 6, 2022 by Corinne 4 Comments

Out of the most non-toxic mineral-based paints I found in North America, BioShield Clay Paint is near the top of the list.

This clay paint has a high percentage of natural ingredients and the least amount of concerning additives out of any liquid paint available. It is also extremely low in odor.

The only paint that is more natural is Milk Paint, but Milk Paint is tricky to use on drywall. Clay Paint is the most natural paint you can use on interior drywall.

It is called a Clay Paint because clay is the main mineral filler. When comparing this with Chalk Paint, Clay Paint is higher in clay than calcium carbonate and Chalk Paint is higher in calcium carbonate. Both of these paint types can be free of acrylic plastic as the polymer, and use more benign PVA or EVA binders.

I found the odor of this clay paint, even straight out of the bottle, to be mild and non-offensive. Depending on your level of sensitivity, this may smell just slightly like polymers or it might smell totally benign to you – more like food than paint.

[Read more…] about Clay Based Paints (For Walls) – My Testing & Review

Filed Under: Healthy Interiors

How to Seal in Offgassing (and Odors) in Every Material

February 20, 2022 by Corinne 49 Comments

This article covers sealers for containing offgassing and odors including VOCs, semi VOCs, smoke, fragrance, and more. The sealers likely are good barriers to non-volatile chemicals as well.

The article is ordered by material that you want to seal.

There are four main classes of sealants:

1. Shellac

Shellac is a natural wax that comes from a beetle and in its purest form is just the natural wax and food-grade alcohol like ethanol. You can mix it yourself by buying the flakes and alcohol or you can buy the more synthetic versions by Zinsser that I will list.

Shellac is technically high in VOCs because the alcohol is very volatile. But it’s extremely fast to offgas and very few people don’t do well with shellac after it cures.

Shellac has downsides but if it works for your project it’s also going to provide the best seal.

[Read more…] about How to Seal in Offgassing (and Odors) in Every Material

Filed Under: Healthy Interiors

Smoothing the Seams in Mobile Home Walls (With Non-Toxic Materials)

October 29, 2021 by Corinne 1 Comment

Walls in mobile homes have a vinyl layer on the wallboard and battens covering the seam gaps. It is possible to remove the battens and mud over the seams. It is also a good idea to prime the walls with BIN Shellac primer to stop any offgassing or leaching of plasticizers from the vinyl.

[Read more…] about Smoothing the Seams in Mobile Home Walls (With Non-Toxic Materials)

Filed Under: Healthy Building, Healthy Interiors Tagged With: healthy interiors

Natural Mineral-Based Paint Brand Reviews (for Walls)

March 1, 2021 by Corinne 31 Comments

Technically, a mineral paint is a paint made with potassium silicate as the main binder. These are also called silicate paints. Any paint with a polymer binder that polymerizes is not technically a mineral paint.

Some companies are producing paints that they call mineral paints that are simply regular paints with mineral content. A paint heavy in clay or in chalk could be loosely described as a mineral paint, but usually, this is deceptive.

Paints are classified by the binder that they use. Calling any paint a mineral paint because it contains minerals is marketing lingo. All paints use minerals as the base filler/thickener.

[Read more…] about Natural Mineral-Based Paint Brand Reviews (for Walls)

Filed Under: Healthy Building, Healthy Interiors Tagged With: healthy decor, healthy interiors

Guide to Non-Toxic Drywall: Types and Brands

July 11, 2019 by Corinne 45 Comments

Drywall is also called gypsum board, sheetrock, plasterboard, or more generally, wallboard. We are going to look over the types and brands, and which chemicals they contain. Which ones have the least toxic additives, don’t offgas, and are the healthiest choices.

This post contains affiliate links, upon purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

What is Drywall Composed of?

The main ingredient in drywall is gypsum, so let’s start there and look at the health considerations of gypsum. There are two types of gypsum:

a close up of Natural gypsum mineral crystals

Natural Versus Synthetic Gypsum

Natural gypsum is a product mined from the earth. Synthetic gypsum is made from the byproduct of power plants, also called FGD gypsum. They are both technically gypsum.

Unless a product specifically states they use natural mined gypsum, it is exceptionally difficult to track which brands use which type, or if they use a mix.

  • 30% of all drywall in North America is synthetic
  • USG, the largest drywall manufacturer, has 21 drywall plants. 9 of those only use synthetic. 6 use a mix of the two source

What Else is Drywall Made Up Of:

  • Drywall is 70-90% gypsum (synthetic, mined or mixed)
  • 10% paper, on the paper-backed types

Other additives that may be included:

  • Cellulose fibers (in monolithic drywall)
  • Fiberglass fibers (fiberglass is in X and C types, and fiberglass backed drywall)
  • Plasticizers
  • Starch
  • Finely ground mica crystal as an accelerant
  • EDTA or other chelating agents
  • Boric acid/borates
  • Wax like paraffin or hydrocarbon, or silanes to hinder water absorption (on the greenboard types)
  • Potassium sulfate
  • Sodium sulfate
  • Vermiculite (in Type C fire resistant drywall)
  • EVA as an adhesive

Source 1, source 2, and SDS sheets

Does Synthetic Drywall Contain Mercury?

Both synthetic and natural gypsum contain low amounts of mercury. It is regulated by the UL standard (ULE 100).

How Much Mercury is in Drywall?

The amount of mercury in synthetic gypsum varies depending on the power plant it came from (source).

It is also a trace metal found in natural mined gypsum. One study found the amounts were 0.92 ng/m2-day for natural gypsum wallboard and 5.9 ng/m2-day for synthetic gypsum wallboard. This resulted in mercury levels in the rooms that were below the background levels normally found indoors and within or below the levels found in outdoor air (source).

Therefore, mercury in drywall has not been a concern of mine. If you wanted to avoid all gypsum board you would be looking at alternatives like MgO board, tongue and groove wood (not allowed by all codes due to fire risk), or plaster and lath (wood or metal lath).

Or, you could minimize the amount of mercury by going with natural gypsum.

USG, Georgia-Pacific, CertainTeed and National Gypsum are the main producers of gypsum board. These are all easy to source at building supply stores and through contractors. The gypsum could be natural, synthetic, or mixed, and it’s very difficult to find out which drywall line contains which type of gypsum.

Non-Toxic Drywall

A stack of drywall

By Brand:

1. Natural Gypsum

National Gypsum makes gypsum boards that are VOC-free (the paper-backed ones). This brand tends to use natural gypsum.

Their standard line is the regular Goldbond. LITE may also work well for sensitive folks. More on “light” drywall below. The type X is a fire-rated drywall, it contains fiberglass.

You can source this through your contractor’s suppliers. You can get a test sheet at Lowes.

The use recycled paper to back the drywall (like the other major brands).

2. USG SheetRock

This is the largest drywall brand and the easiest to source. The SDS sheets claim 0-VOC. They also have GreenGuard Gold certification, which I discuss more below.

The “regular” drywall should contain the least amount of additives. They use recycled paper backing and facing, but there should be no mildewcide, fiberglass, or other major additives.

USG Sheetrock Ultralight – I have been happy with their Sheetrock Ultralight, I did not pick up any offgassing or moldiness in the paper. Although we don’t know what the blowing agent is (it could be air), I would feel comfortable using this one in my home due to my own testing of it. This is my go-to brand that I specify.

This one is inexpensive and easy to find. You can get it at Home Depot or through your contractor.

USG Firecode X – Research that a very sensitive client revealed that USG was the cleanest gypsum on the West Coast (as it contained more natural gypsum). Though these things change over time, and that same brand could be made in a different factory on the East Coast.

It does not contain a flame retardant, it does contain glass fibers (fiberglass). More on type X below.

3. Georgia-Pacific

Georgia-Pacific Gypsum boards are all GreenGuard Gold Certified. Their exact VOC levels are not listed on the SDS.

Like the other brands, they have a “standard” line which is what I would recommend as the safest bet. The “light” can be considered as well.

GP DensArmor Plus is the most popular fiberglass-backed drywall. No paper here. They recently made a statement that the Dens line is treated with biocides.

4. Certainteed

CertainTeed Gypsum boards claim zero-VOC (no reportable VOCs), and they have GreenGuard Gold certification.

They have all the same categories of drywall types as the others.

Should You Use Paper-Backed or Fiberglass-Backed?

A close up of USG Glass mat liner which is a fiberglass backed gypsum board
USG Glass Mat Liner

Many drywall companies use recycled paper which some folks are reluctant to use in their homes. One study showed that paper is already full of mold spores (source). The other concern is that if it gets wet it will mold faster than other materials.

If that is a concern of yours, I would check out the fiberglass-backed drywall and see if that is tolerable for you. Fiberglass is not totally odorless.

If it isn’t, keep in mind that you should not have moisture or condensation behind your wall if your wall is designed and built right. If you have a big leak you are likely to find that quite quickly. I would not rule out paper-backed drywall, personally.

A close up of USG fiberlock which is a monolithic drywall
USG Fiberock

Another type of drywall is called monolithic drywall (pictured above)- no paper and no fiberglass – such as the USG Fiberock line.

It does not have a backing, instead, it contains cellulose fibers dispersed throughout the gypsum. This is a less common type. If you have chemical sensitivities you should test it out yourself if you rule out the other two types. This is my top pick for the type of drywall to use on the bathroom walls (not behind tiles, just the walls).

You do need to skim coat this type of wallboard (same goes for fiberglass backed).

Behind wet areas, concrete backer board should be used (not drywall) – that is discussed in the post on bathrooms.

Costs? Paper-backed drywall is the least expensive type, followed by fiberglass-backed, and then monolithic.

Types of Drywall with Special Properties – Which Chemicals are Added?

1. Fire-Rated Drywall

Type X drywall means it meets requirements for fire codes (that could be required in certain rooms of a house). This type contains glass fibers, is denser, and is 5/8th thick (regular drywall is ½ inch).

It is 10-20% more expensive than regular drywall.

Type C is another type of fire-rated drywall, with a higher rating than type X. It also contains fiberglass and a form of vermiculite. It is more expensive than type X and may be specified for certain areas.

a close up of the gypsum board USG Sheetrock Firecode X
USG Sheetrock Firecode X

2. Drywall that Reduces Formaldehyde

CertainTeed’s AirRenew (GreenGuard Gold), claims to soak up formaldehyde. However, it also contains a biocide.

It is a little harder to source than the ones above. In Canada, you can find it at Lowes. Some have reported an odor with this one that might indicate that an additive used to soak up formaldehyde might not work for everyone.

This patent might be related to this brand.

3. Light Drywall 

The major drywall companies all have lines that are lighter in weight, and these are very commonly used in construction. We don’t know what is added to light drywall that makes it light.

From my testing of it, I did not find that it had chemical offgassing, but we don’t know what the blowing agent is – it could be air or something that dissipates quickly (source).

I did well with USG Sheetrock UltraLite, and I don’t suspect a toxic blowing agent.

Borates are likely to be found in light drywall (source). The SDS will sometimes list borax.

a close up photo I took of USG ultralight edge where you can see the paper backing and the gypsum with lots of little bubbles
USG Ultralight has lots of air bubbles

4. Mold Resistant Drywall / Green Board

Both the monolithic (homogenous) drywall and fiberglass-backed types are less prone to going moldy (or at least to going moldy as quickly) compared to paper-backed drywall.

Fiberglass-backed drywall is promoted as more mold-resistant, but all of the brands I have looked at including the Dens line do contain a mildewcide.

If it is labeled as “mold-resistant” and is paper-backed then you can expect a biocide.

Paperbacked brands with mildewcide in them include:

  • Georgia-Pacific’s ToughRock Mold Guard -doesn’t disclose biocides but does disclose paraffin wax, polyvinyl alcohol, and poly(methylhydrosiloxane) which are moisture resistant additives (HPD)
  • Certainteed’s M2Tech – doesn’t disclose biocides but does disclose paraffin wax, polyvinyl alcohol, and poly(methylhydrosiloxane) which are moisture resistant additives (HPD)
  • National Gypsum Goldbond XP – as of 2023 the biocides are undisclosed but in the past I found info that it was treated with thiabendazol, azoxystrobin and fludioxonil (there’s also a European patent for these three chemicals used in drywall)
  • USG Sheetrock Mold Tough line – treated with sodium pyrithione (source)
  • Pharos also lists multiple sources for the use of sodium pyrithione (source)

“Green board” is a generic term for green-colored drywall like these that have biocide treated paper and are meant for areas with more moisture.

GP’s ToughRock Mold-Guard, American Gypsum’s Aquabloc, and Sheetrock Mold Tough are green board. Purple drywall by National Gypsum is similar.

A bathroom with greenboard that is mudded at the seams but not yet painted
Greenboard

Additional Health Concerns with Drywall

Green board

All the parts to the wedi shower system with the base board and membranes

It is not best practice to use green board (including the purple) behind tiles that get wet.

Best practice in this area is to use concrete backer boards with the Schluter system, or, Schulter or WEDI foam boards, discussed in this post on bathrooms.

If you want to create a mold preventative shower, Schulter and WEDI are the best systems.

Using green board behind wet tiles can lead to mold if there is moisture. They also contain added mildewcides, so I prefer to avoid these types of drywall.

Sulphur Emitting Drywall

Small rocks of sulfur

The “Chinese Drywall” debacle is the best-known case of a major problem in the drywall industry. Between 2001 and 2009 some drywall offgassed sulfur to the point of causing major problems.

There have also been lawsuits against American-made drywall, but they were dismissed.

I have not seen any issues with sulfur and drywall lately.

In every industry, these kinds of problems do crop up from time to time. Those very sensitive should use their own reactions to guide them. Drywall should never smell like sulfur, and if you react to it that won’t be good for you.

Those who are healthy or less sensitive should go with well-respected brands and do the best you can with the research that we have. Made in America may be better, but is no guarantee that there will not be problems.

The problematic drywall also contained strontium.

Silica Dust 

A box of 3M N95s

When drywall is cut and when joint compound is in dust form (straight out of the bag or after sanding), silica, the same substance that glass is made of is, is harmful to breathe in.

Silica is perfectly safe when in solid form.

Be sure to take great caution when mixing up drywall mud, when cutting drywall and when sanding the mud.

Use an N95 mask or better when around the dust.

The dust is very fine and difficult to remove, I have seen it in builds that are 2 years old. It clings to the wall so you have to clean it very thoroughly.

Make sure the central HVAC is off when drywall and drywall mud work is being done, there should never be drywall/silica dust in your ducts.

Products containing silica dust/quartz will have a Prop 65 warning, keep in mind it’s safe when in solid form.

Should your Drywall be Certified – GreenGuard Gold or UL?

The greenguard gold logo

The only benefit to a GreenGuard Gold product is it might catch these unusual problems with offgassing that have cropped up – either sulfur or formaldehyde.

More than a decade ago, some drywall did test positive for formaldehyde, in that sense, GreenGuard Gold is the best certification for this case, as it ensures the VOC levels are extremely low, the same as outdoor air. More details on GreenGuard levels in this post on certifications.

Those who do not want to over-research should go with a big brand Greenguard Gold line that does not contain mildewcides. National Gypsum Goldbond if you want natural mined gypsum.

Drywall should be zero-VOC, and in theory, does not give off formaldehyde at a detectable level.

UL 100 is somewhat helpful in that it regulates mercury, but I expect all drywall to have extremely minuscule levels of mercury.

For drywall mud (spackle/joint compound), drywall tape, and mud for textured walls see my dedicated post on this topic.

Related posts:

Non-Toxic Drywall Mud

Non-Toxic Plaster

Corinne Segura is a Building Biologist Practitioner with 8 years of experience helping others create healthy homes.

Did you find this post helpful? If so you can buy me a coffee to support the research behind this blog. Thank you!

Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

Sources:

1) Building Green


2) The Spruce


3) SDS sheets for all the major brands


4) Teledy


5) Pub Med


6) Research Gate


7) Patent


8) The Spruce


9) Borax


10) ProPublica

Filed Under: Healthy Building Tagged With: Healthy building

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      • Non-Toxic Kitchen Cabinets
      • Thermafoil, Melamine & Laminate Cabinets
      • Non-Toxic Shelf and Drawer Liners
      • A Non-Toxic Bathroom
      • Solid Wood Bathroom Vanities
      • Lead Free Tile Brands
      • Study of Lead in Tile (12.5% of Tiles Contain Lead)
      • Testing for Lead in Tiles, Faucets, Bathtubs and other Building Materials
      • Non-Toxic Anti-Fatigue Mats
      • What are Antibacterial Ceramic Toilet Additives: EverClean and CeFiONtect?
      • Not all Depression Glass is Safe to Use (Some Contain Toxic Metals)
      • Is Uranium Glass Safe (Radiation Dosages Explained)
      • Is Uranium Glass Microwave Safe?
    • General/Misc
      • Gifts for those with Chemical and Mold Sensitivities
      • Making Sense of Green Certifications – GreenGuard, Floorscore and More
      • Does Oeko-Tex 100 Mean Free of PFAS?
    • Appliances
      • Kitchen Appliances for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Non-Toxic Toaster Ovens
      • Heaters for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Appliances Without the Prop 65 Warning
      • Why There Are No Refrigerators Without Prop 65 Warnings
      • Washing Machines Without a Prop 65 Warning
    • Cleaning
      • Air Fresheners for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Non-Toxic Alternatives to Aerosol Air Freshener
      • Cleaning Products for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Personal Care Products for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Non-Toxic Deck Cleaners
      • Non-Toxic Degreasers
      • Non-Toxic Hospital Grade Disinfectants
      • Non-Toxic Floor Cleaners
      • Dilution Table for Hydrogen Peroxide
    • Paint & Wall Coverings Cornerstone Guide Non-Toxic Paints
      • Non-Toxic Radiator Paint
      • Alternatives to Oil-Based Paint for Trim/Doors
      • Review & Comparison of Sherwin-Williams’ Paints
      • Baby Safe Paint for Nursery Walls
      • Baby Safe Paint for Cribs & Furniture
      • Breathable Paints (High Perm Rating)
      • Clay Based Paint (For Walls)
      • Mineral-Based Paint
      • Natural Paints
      • Non-Toxic Chalk Paint
      • Ingredients in Annie Sloan Chalk Paint
      • How to Paint Over Chalk Paint
      • Do Onions Neutralize New Paint Smell
      • Food Grade Paint Brands
      • Non-Toxic Glow in the Dark Paint
      • Latex-Free Paint Brands (Latex Allergy Safe)
      • Tutorial: Painting Clay Pots with Natural Paints
      • ECOS Paints Review
      • Non-Toxic Exterior Paints
      • Non-Toxic Floor Paint
      • Non-Toxic Concrete Paints
      • Non-Toxic Interior Wall Primers
      • Non-Toxic Kitchen Cabinet Paint
      • Non-Toxic Metal Paints & Primers
      • Non-Toxic Metallic Paint
      • Non-Toxic Spray Paint
      • Non-Toxic Milk Paint for Walls
      • Non-Toxic Paint for Wood (Toys, Furniture, Floors)
      • Non-Toxic Paint for Plastic (Toys, Crafts, Furniture)
      • Non-Toxic Paint for Laminate Furniture/Cabinets
      • Non-Toxic Paint & Stains for Rabbit Hutches
      • Non-Toxic Paint & Stains for a Chicken Coop
      • Non-Toxic Paint & Stains for a Reptile Enclosure
      • Non-Toxic Paint Sealers
      • Non-Toxic Paint Strippers
      • Non-Toxic Paint Thinners
      • Alternatives to Paint Thinner
      • Non-Toxic Wallpaper
    • Sealers Cornerstone Guide to Non-Toxic Sealers, Stains and Varnishes
      • Natural Wood Floor Finishes
      • Oil Finishes for Wood Floors
      • Natural Wood Stains
      • Natural Wood Finishes
      • Are Linseed & Tung Oil Non-Toxic
      • Durable Natural Finishes for Tables & Desks
      • How to Seal in Offgassing (and Odors) in Every Material
      • How to Stain Pine With Non-Toxic Products
      • How-To: Staining Wood with Natural Pigments
      • Sealers for Log Cabin Homes
      • Natural Sealers for Stone Countertops
      • Low-VOC Sealants for Marble, Granite, Limestone
      • Non-Toxic Concrete Sealers & Stains
      • Non-Toxic Sealants & Paints for Terra-Cotta Pots
      • Non-Toxic Sealants for Concrete Birdbaths
      • Non-Toxic Sealants for Wooden Toys
      • Non-Toxic Wood Floor Finishes
      • Non-Toxic Wood Stains That Are Safe for Raised Garden Beds
      • Non-Toxic Deck Stains (For Outdoor Furniture Too)
      • Non-Toxic Grout Sealer Options
      • Non-Toxic Waterproof Sealants for Exterior Wood
      • Food-Grade Clear Sealants
    • Furnishings
      • Non-Toxic Sofa Brands
      • DIY: Building a Non-Toxic Sofa
      • What are Non-Fluorinated Stain Guard Chemicals?
      • Non-Toxic Leather Couches & Furniture
      • Non-Toxic Leather Conditioners
      • Bed Frames for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Non-Toxic Futons
      • Mattresses for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Mattress Covers to Seal in Toxins, Block Dust Mites
      • Non-Toxic Wedge Pillows
      • Pillows, Sheets, & Blankets for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Non-Toxic Rugs
      • Non-Toxic Desks (And Office Chairs)
      • Non-Toxic Furniture for the Bedroom, Living Room & Dining Room
      • Non-Toxic Windows, Blinds & Curtains
      • Non-Toxic IKEA Furniture
      • How to Offgas New Furniture
      • VOC Barriers to Block Offgassing
    • Flooring Cornerstone Guide to Non-Toxic Flooring
      • Non-Toxic Laminate Flooring
      • Non-Toxic Engineered Wood Flooring
      • Non-Toxic Vinyl Plank Floor
      • Non-Toxic Linoleum Flooring
      • Non-Toxic Cork Flooring
      • Non-Toxic Gym Flooring
      • Non-Toxic Alternatives To Vinyl Sheet Flooring
      • Non-Toxic Bathroom Flooring
      • GreenGuard Gold Certified Flooring
      • All Natural Flooring Options
      • Non-Toxic Carpet
  • Healthy Exteriors/Gardens
    • Non-Toxic Decking Material Options
    • Non-Toxic Siding/Cladding
  • Tiny Homes and Trailers
    • Tiny Homes & Shelters for the Mold & Chemically Sensitive
    • Travel Trailers for the Mold & Chemically Sensitive
    • Simple Insulated Shelter for Chemical Sensitivity and Mold Avoidance
    • What to Consider When Building a Tiny House When Chemically Sensitive
    • Custom Aluminum Travel Trailer (Camplite)
    • Cargo Trailer Conversion
    • Converting a Cargo Van
    • An All Metal Tiny Home
    • Non-Toxic Teardrop Trailer
    • Building a Non-Toxic Shower in a THOW
    • Composting Toilets for Those Sensitive to Mold and Chemicals
    • Tiny House Systems for those with Environmental Sensitivities
    • Non-Toxic Tiny House: Sneak Peak
    • How to Offgas that New Car Smell
  • Healthy Building
    • Overview
      • How to Test Materials When You Have Chemical Sensitivity
      • Building for the Chemically Sensitive
      • Healthy Home Building Consultant
      • How a Building Biologist Can Help you Create a Healthy Home
      • How to Save Money Building a House (and Use Green Materials)
      • Review of Boxabl Prefabs
      • Alternative Building Systems
      • The Most Toxic Materials to Avoid in a New Build
    • Materials
      • Non-Toxic Insulation
      • Non-Toxic Weatherstripping
      • Sheathing & Subfloor
      • Pressed & Laminated Wood Products
      • Formaldehyde-Free MDF
      • When Does MDF and Particleboard Offgas
      • Is Plywood Toxic? (Non-Toxic Alternatives)
      • Non-Toxic Stairs
      • Non-Toxic Caulks & Adhesives
      • Non-Toxic Wood Glues & White Glues
      • Low Odor Woods Used in Building and Furniture
      • Non-Toxic Drywall
      • Non-Toxic Drywall Mud and Wall Texture
      • Smoothing the Seams in Mobile Home Walls (With Non-Toxic Materials)
      • Non-Toxic Spackle
      • Non-Toxic Plaster
      • Non-Toxic Ceiling Tiles
      • Natural Plasters: Application Challenges & Tips
      • Magnesium Oxide Board Brands
      • Non-Toxic Flooring Underlayment
      • Non-Toxic Grout and Thin-Set Mortar
      • Non-Toxic Interior and Exterior Doors
      • Non-Toxic Pipes
      • 100% Lead Free Faucets
      • Non-Toxic Self-Leveling Cement
      • Non-Toxic Windows
      • Non-Toxic Closet & Shelving Systems
  • Air Purifiers
    • Best Activated Carbon Air Purifiers
    • Best Air Purifiers for Mold (PCO)
    • Best Air Purifiers for Those With Chemical Sensitivity
    • Best Air Purifiers for Chemicals
    • Best Air Purifiers for Formaldehyde
    • Best Essential Oils for Air Purifiers (+ How This Can Backfire)
    • Calculator to Size an Air Purifier for Your Home
  • Mold-Free Building
    • Passive House Tiny House – A Detailed Mold Preventative Build
    • Designed for Mold-Prevention – Corbett’s Tiny House
    • Hempcrete for Mold-Safe Homes
    • Building a Mold-Free Tiny House
    • What are the Causes of Mold in Tiny Houses?
    • Non-Toxic Prefab Homes
    • The Best Tiny Prefab for Mold and Chemical Sensitivities
  • Mold-Free Interiors
    • Get Rid of Mold in Your Car, Including AC System
    • Simplified Mold Testing Overview – Pros and Cons of Different Methods
    • Using Ozone to Kill and Denature Mold
    • Essential Oils that Kill Mold
  • For Those Highly Sensitive to Mold and Chemicals
    • Non-Toxic Tents
    • Non-Toxic Sleeping Bags (and Other Camping Gear)
    • A Mold Avoidance Sabbatical
    • Free Location Effect Sabbatical E-Booklet
    • Healing Chemical Sensitivity with Mold Avoidance – Interview with Solona
    • How I Recovered from Chemical Sensitivities (MCS)
    • How to Choose a Hotel When you Have Chemical Sensitivities (And Mold Sensitivity)
    • Travel Tips for Those with Chemical Sensitivity & Mold Sensitivity
    • The Locations Effect – Canadian Locations
    • What is Hell Toxin (HT) and How to Break, Decon and Clean It
    • Emergency Housing for Chemical and Mold Sensitivity
    • How to Remove Fabric Softener (and Other Fragrances) from Clothing
    • How to Remove Chemicals from New Clothing

The Most Toxic Materials to Avoid in a New Build

March 20, 2021 by Corinne 10 Comments

four photos side by side, first one spray foam, seconds is rubber flooring, third is a composite wood and fourth is black  caulking, words overlaid say the most toxic building materials to avoid
[Read more…] about The Most Toxic Materials to Avoid in a New Build

Filed Under: Healthy Building Tagged With: Healthy building

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ABOUT ME

Hi, I’m Corinne Segura, I hold a certificate in Building Biology, and a certificate in Healthier Materials and Sustainable Buildings, among other credentials below. I have 8 years of experience helping people create healthy homes.

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